Comparison New 1023E vs 1025R decision

[Garycw]

Ok,... Got it. That WAS easy

 

[RalphVa]

There's a single bolt holding each side panel in place. I replaced the bolts with pins and slip cotter gizmos.

How'd you get a 1025R with a fixed ROPS?

Ralph

 

[Garycw]

The ROPS is folding. Now just have to remember to fold before going in garage. The other compact I have goes in barn fine up. Did a test mow and took a bird house clean off a fence and a few Apple limbs too.
I like the pin and cotter key for side panels. Just don't want to rattle. I got the dealer to throw in a rear work light wire harness. So I'll be taking a lot of panels off.
Got to do some first time loader work today. Used a full dirt scoop for ballast. Worked great.

 

[Garycw]

Where's a good " cheap" place to get teeth for bucket for digging?

 

[M Thomas]

I'd give a lot of thought, and look at other brands before making a decision. I purchased a 1026r in 2012 with all the bells and whistles except a back hoe, for $24,000.00, I've have nothing but trouble with it, this time when it broke,(min. two weeks to be repaired) I looked to buy a new John Deere As a trade in with 214 hrs. I was offered $9000.00 for it.

 

[williaty]

With every brand, you're going to find a few people having a terrible time (like M. Thomas) and most people getting along just fine. Whenever you trade in something to a dealer, you should never expect more than 50% of current value and generally it runs more like 30-40% of current value. The simple reason for this is that the dealer will want a minimum of 50% profit after the costs associated with buying your item, reconditioning it, certifying it (if such a program is in place), relisting it for sale, and paying the staff to make that all happen. It's always better (economically) to sell something privately than to trade it in. M. Thomas could have sold that setup privately for something close to $20k based on the used-for-sale ads around here.

 

[Garycw]

Well it's a done deal. It's been here 3 days. Only took 2 days to hit the garage with ROPS. Have also taken down 3 bird houses with it. Only issue I have now is the 60" deck is making a ridge in the grass when mowing slopes while turning. Didn't notice it with the 54". With these big hanging decks, it's like they need a gauge wheel on the center outside edges. 90% of my mowing is in curved slopes.

 

[TripleR]

Well it's a done deal. It's been here 3 days. Only took 2 days to hit the garage with ROPS. Have also taken down 3 bird houses with it. Only issue I have now is the 60" deck is making a ridge in the grass when mowing slopes while turning. Didn't notice it with the 54". With these big hanging decks, it's like they need a gauge wheel on the center outside edges. 90% of my mowing is in curved slopes.

Our 60" 1025R deck does the same thing, but not the 62" deck on our old 2305, don't know why.

 

[williaty]

Well it's a done deal. It's been here 3 days. Only took 2 days to hit the garage with ROPS. Have also taken down 3 bird houses with it. Only issue I have now is the 60" deck is making a ridge in the grass when mowing slopes while turning. Didn't notice it with the 54". With these big hanging decks, it's like they need a gauge wheel on the center outside edges. 90% of my mowing is in curved slopes.

1) The first week or two is the worst for hitting things with the ROPS. After that, you've bashed holes in everything so now you fit :lol:

2) The 60" deck is known for problems like that which the 54" deck doesn't have. If you haven't already done so, read the deck and lift adjustment thread on Green Tractor Talk for these tractors to make sure there's no possible setup problem that could be making it worse.

 

[Garycw]

Thanks. I'll be rechecking level by the book. I've raised the lift links as it came from dealer because of cutting too low. I may need to adjust back down so gauge wheels come in contact quicker with the ground.
The gauge wheels are all the way down, but higher off the ground than the recommended 1/4"