Need Tie Down Advice

[scolba]

Hey Guys,

Been lurking here for a while, and figured it was time I register!

I am going to be moving a tractor for a buddy tomorrow, and while I drag a lot of stuff around (cars, trucks, the occasional skid steer, and various other heavy things), this will be my first tractor. It will most DEFINITELY not be the last one, though!

To start, I am towing with a 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 QC, 4x4, with a CTD. The trailer has a 7500 lb max payload and stake pockets about every foot. The tractor is a 1954ish Farmall Super M. The info that I can find says its 5600lbs. Attached is a pic of it....I'll be using 5/16th chain, 2 on the front (hopefully) and 2 on the rear.

So...the rear, I don't really have a problem with. I'll X the chains to either side of the axle and sinch her down. But the front is whats giving me a headache. I had considered looping the chain over the frame rails just behind the front sheet metal, but only if there is a crossmember to keep the chains from damaging the nose. If there isn't....well...then I'm stuck. Is it ok to go through the tires? maybe one on each tire? Im a little hesitant to do that, since that whole assembly pivots for steering, and I really don't want to jack it up.

So yeah...any advice is welcome!

Thanks guys!
Scott

 

[Diamondpilot]

Most folk in this area have the same problem. What they do to solve it is get 2 grab hook, in your case 5/16", and 2 6" pieces of chain along with 2 grad 8 bolts the appropriate size. They then bolt the assembly to the tractor through the holes in the cross members about 4" back from the radiator. I will look for a pic to explain.

May cost him $20 for the stuff but will allow for safe transport.

Chris

 

[RobertN]

The nice thing about old Farmall's, is they are made to bolt all kinds of different tools to. Cultivators, seeders ect.

As Diamondpilot mentioned, you should be able to get some hooks and bolt them right on there.

So...the rear, I don't really have a problem with. I'll X the chains to either side of the axle and sinch her down. But the front is whats giving me a headache.

 

[scolba]

ah, good call!! Thanks guys!

So now i just need to figure out the bolt hole size. The tractor is about 2 hours from here...was purchase because the owners are going to a nursing home, so theres nobody there to measure. Guess ill take an assorment!

So let me ask....might just be my inexperience w\ chains....but, why would there need to be a hook on the tractor? If i just bolt a 6" piece of chain, wouldn't the hook on the end of the chain that attached to the trailer grab onto just the bare chain?

 

[Diamondpilot]

ah, good call!! Thanks guys!

So now i just need to figure out the bolt hole size. The tractor is about 2 hours from here...was purchase because the owners are going to a nursing home, so theres nobody there to measure. Guess ill take an assorment!

So let me ask....might just be my inexperience w\ chains....but, why would there need to be a hook on the tractor? If i just bolt a 6" piece of chain, wouldn't the hook on the end of the chain that attached to the trailer grab onto just the bare chain?

Your plan will work just fine. Just most around here put hooks on then they use 3 chains and 2 binders. They lay the chain, maybe 15' long, across the trailer with it hooked on each end in the stake pocket. Once the tractor is loaded they put the chain tough in each grab hook installed on the tractor then use 2 separate chains on the rear as you had planed with tensioners. This snugs everything up as long as the tractor is in neutral. Once secured put it back in gear.

The main factor that will determine you bolts size is what fits through the chain. Make sure you use good strong bolts for this with nylon lock nuts and washers. Make sure you use grade 8 yellow bolts for strength.

One other word of advise its easier to load tri-cycle tractors in reverse and much safer. Get the rears on the trailer then adjust the ramps to allow the front to come up on. Ones who are good at it can do so by backing up at a angle so no adjustment is needed.

Chris

 

[scolba]

So for the backwards loading, is that safer for loading under power? Since they have a tendancy to pick the front up? Or is this in general. The reason I am asking is because I'm actually going to be winching it onto the trailer because it doesn't run...so was just thinking that the rear is probably heavier, and I'd like to have that over the axles of the trailer.

 

[scolba]

Your plan will work just fine. Just most around here put hooks on then they use 3 chains and 2 binders. They lay the chain, maybe 15' long, across the trailer with it hooked on each end in the stake pocket. Once the tractor is loaded they put the chain tough in each grab hook installed on the tractor then use 2 separate chains on the rear as you had planed with tensioners. This snugs everything up as long as the tractor is in neutral. Once secured put it back in gear.

oh heck yeah...that makes a lot of sense! i guess i had always had in my head 4 chains, 4 binders, but since they don't exactly strech, that would work great!

 

[RobertN]

The Farmall I used to have was a lighter, smaller wide front "A".

There is really no good snatch point on the front of these tractors. They were made to pull, or have attachments mounted off the side(ie cultivator bars).

I would pull it on backwards. Pull from the drawbar.

So for the backwards loading, is that safer for loading under power? Since they have a tendancy to pick the front up? Or is this in general. The reason I am asking is because I'm actually going to be winching it onto the trailer because it doesn't run...so was just thinking that the rear is probably heavier, and I'd like to have that over the axles of the trailer.

 

[Diamondpilot]

If you are going to winch it go forwards. Backing is the safest way for a narrow front tractors because they like to bring the front end up.

Sounds like you are all set with a plan. Make sure the battery for the winch is fully charged before you leave. Don't ask me how I know to check this.

Chris

 

[flusher]

Hey Guys,

Been lurking here for a while, and figured it was time I register!

I am going to be moving a tractor for a buddy tomorrow, and while I drag a lot of stuff around (cars, trucks, the occasional skid steer, and various other heavy things), this will be my first tractor. It will most DEFINITELY not be the last one, though!

To start, I am towing with a 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 QC, 4x4, with a CTD. The trailer has a 7500 lb max payload and stake pockets about every foot. The tractor is a 1954ish Farmall Super M. The info that I can find says its 5600lbs. Attached is a pic of it....I'll be using 5/16th chain, 2 on the front (hopefully) and 2 on the rear.

So...the rear, I don't really have a problem with. I'll X the chains to either side of the axle and sinch her down. But the front is whats giving me a headache. I had considered looping the chain over the frame rails just behind the front sheet metal, but only if there is a crossmember to keep the chains from damaging the nose. If there isn't....well...then I'm stuck. Is it ok to go through the tires? maybe one on each tire? Im a little hesitant to do that, since that whole assembly pivots for steering, and I really don't want to jack it up.

So yeah...any advice is welcome!

Thanks guys!
Scott

Here's how my dealer delivered my 2008 Mahindra 5525, which weighs about the same as that Farmall you mentioned.



Four corner chains with binders.

 

[LBrown59]

Hey Guys,
********I am going to be moving a tractor for a buddy tomorrow, Scott

********R U insured ?
R U sure.

 

[radioman]

********R U insured ?
R U sure.

R U really nosy about insurance things ?

 

[jagyzf]

Your plan will work just fine. Just most around here put hooks on then they use 3 chains and 2 binders. They lay the chain, maybe 15' long, across the trailer with it hooked on each end in the stake pocket. Once the tractor is loaded they put the chain tough in each grab hook installed on the tractor then use 2 separate chains on the rear as you had planed with tensioners. This snugs everything up as long as the tractor is in neutral. Once secured put it back in gear.
Chris

Federal tie down regs require 4 chains and 4 binders on equipment (I think over 5000 lbs). One chain and binder also need to be added for each attachment, so if it had a loader, brush mower, etc it would also need a chain. Granted as has been discussed on this board each state enforcement is different (in some states none) and hauling ag equipment you may be able to get away with it. I know of people who have been caught and in NY the load is stopped until it is secured properly. The person I was surprised that was caught was hauling his CUT with a pick-up and trailer as you described and was sited.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Federal tie down regs require 4 chains and 4 binders on equipment (I think over 5000 lbs). One chain and binder also need to be added for each attachment, so if it had a loader, brush mower, etc it would also need a chain. Granted as has been discussed on this board each state enforcement is different (in some states none) and hauling ag equipment you may be able to get away with it. I know of people who have been caught and in NY the load is stopped until it is secured properly. The person I was surprised that was caught was hauling his CUT with a pick-up and trailer as you described and was sited.

That is not the case here. And in reality its for loads over 10K I believe. It also does not require chain per say, just a tie down.

Chris

 

[scolba]

well, thanks again for all the advice! The chains bolted up well and served as a good winching point. Unfortunately, the tractor ended up being too WIDE. *sigh* Specs said 71", but im guessing thats at the mounting face or something...cause w\ the tires it was about 86...

So we're tracking down a deckover and will give it another go!

Thanks again, everyone!

 

[Diamondpilot]

That stinks. Most tractors have adjustable width wheels, especially of that era. My tractor has 4 different settings. I am guessing they have it adjusted to the widest stance for row cropping or just stability. I bet the 71" spec is narrow stance for that tractor. It would not fit on my trailer since mine is only 82" between the fenders.

Glad the chain and bolt trick worked.

Chris

 

[Duffster]

well, thanks again for all the advice! The chains bolted up well and served as a good winching point. Unfortunately, the tractor ended up being too WIDE. *sigh* Specs said 71", but im guessing thats at the mounting face or something...cause w\ the tires it was about 86...

So we're tracking down a deckover and will give it another go!

Thanks again, everyone!

M's are pretty easy to narrow up to get to fit on a fender trailer.

 

[RobertN]

You may need to remove and reverse the back tires. Those back tires can be on the inside or outside of the main "disk" portion of the rim. You can make the dish in, or dish out. Or, you can swap the tires side to side. And... The main "disk" portion of the rim can slide on those axles.

The rims would be moved depending on how wide your row crops were, and the positioning of cultivator bars and other tools.

You may just need to take a jack, and a breaker bar with a socket for the lug bolts. Just
make sure if they are liquid filled or not; they can get really really heavy if so...

well, thanks again for all the advice! The chains bolted up well and served as a good winching point. Unfortunately, the tractor ended up being too WIDE. *sigh* Specs said 71", but im guessing thats at the mounting face or something...cause w\ the tires it was about 86...

So we're tracking down a deckover and will give it another go!

Thanks again, everyone!

 

[burnetma]

To Robert's point. Liquid filled tires of that size can be dangerous if they get away from you.

 

[Renze]

I'd hook a good chain through the drawbar, then drive the tractor forward untill the slack is off the chain, and stall the tractor so the tires are compressed a bit. Then use an ordinary ratchet strap to pull down the nose.

The chain is whats most important for me: in case of a frontal crash, that chain at the back is whats preventing the tractor to smash over me, and/or into the other vehicle you crash into.

The strap at the front doesnt have to hold an entire crash, just keep the tractor to the trailer in case of a rollover. The strap wont damage your paint. The chain is hooked to the drawbar, which usually doesnt have paint left anyways.

No detailed written regulations about number and size of chains here ( only "properly secured with applications that are rated to hold the particular load" which leaves some room for interpretation) but they do get picky on heavy equipment lowbed combinations though.. Tickets arent nice if they catch you.