Need quality trailer wiring kit.

   / Need quality trailer wiring kit. #21  
One of my trailers has a screw terminal block mounted to the front of the cargo box. I'd say it was designed to make it easy to replace the wiring that goes along the front A frame to connect to the vehicle. The vehicle connector I linked to has screw terminals.

The cheapo trailer wiring I used 10 years ago is the part that failed from UV exposure and had to be replaced. If I had used a better grade of wire, it probably wouldn't have needed to be replaced.

I use shrink tube and solder all splices if a splice is unavoidable.
 
   / Need quality trailer wiring kit.
  • Thread Starter
#22  
Not sure what you are asking about.

Four main parts to trailer wiring...
1. the wire
2. the truck connector
3. The connections/splices
4. The lights

Aside from light bulb replacement (not the case with LED) Most the issues are with either the truck connector or the connections/splices

Not much you can do about the wire size/quality of the leads coming off the LED lighting fixtures. Because most of them you HAVE yo use the 6" or so flying leads they give you, because the light itself is sealed. And I dont even think the more expensive high quality lights have heavy gauge wire or insulation.

So it all comes down to your splice. So whatever "wire" you choose to run the length of the trailer.....at some point you have splices. And you need your splices to be waterproof. Because even using heavier gauge wire they will eventually corrode and fail.

About the best I have found is Ny-trex butt connectors. They are a heat shrink butt-connector with like a glue/sealant in them. And they work well for repairs, or for new install of lights.

As for the wire....I like the stuff that looks like SO cord.....but made for trailers. Industrial SO cord is fine too.....but the wire colors are wrong for standard trailer wiring. Buying the stuff that e-trailer or several other retailers sell specific for trailers makes wiring east because it is color coded. Just note that the SAE standard (most equipment trailers) is different color coding that RV standard.

Just note that 6-strands is really all you need on a equipment trailer with brakes as most dont have reverse lights. So get 6/14 wire because 7-strand wire is pretty tight fit in some 7-way connectors and also more expensive.

I also dont like using the frame as a ground. If a light fixture has a ground wire....I want it spliced to a ground wire and not a ring terminal and bolted to the frame. Just my preference.

As to the 7-way connector.....you can get the plastic ones you assemble yourself, or you can use a sealed molded one....but at some point it still needs spliced to the trailer wiring. Again, you can either use nytrex connectors or a junction box with studs and ring-terminals on the ends of the wires. I have done it both ways and have had success both ways.

But the wire....you can literally use whatever wire you want......as long as its secure, not rubbing or getting pinched....it is rarely a problem. ITs the connection points. So focus on what you can control
My biggest concern has been the wiring itself.
As others have mentioned UV light really affect the cheap readily available wiring that is included in many aftermarket LED lighting kits.
The insulation will crack and the wire corrodes inside.
I have yet to find a good kit with good wiring.
 
   / Need quality trailer wiring kit. #23  
Something like this may be an option.
I’m not a fan of the pinch blade connections but it may be doable.
Yeah I always use corrugated wire conduit and good straps/routing.
Grounds can become an issue with weather.
There’s always a length of wire that’s exposed or on a bend and those cheap wires will let you know they dont like it once the seemingly biodegradable insulation wears down and the piddly stranded wires corrode.
Stay away from the pinch blades. Had a former employee that loved those things. Created more headaches with trailer wiring is all it did

I just buy four flat plugs from the local auto parts stores with the 12" pig tails on them.

I splice them in with butt splices with the heat shrink.
 
   / Need quality trailer wiring kit. #24  
Stay away from the pinch blades. Had a former employee that loved those things. Created more headaches with trailer wiring is all it did

I just buy four flat plugs from the local auto parts stores with the 12" pig tails on them.

I splice them in with butt splices with the heat shrink.
I used to solder but quit. Butt or crimp connector and heat shrink is more dependable.
 
   / Need quality trailer wiring kit. #25  
I used to solder but quit. Butt or crimp connector and heat shrink is more dependable.
They covered that same subject in a Deere tier 4 electrical class I took last year.

They moved away from solder. Silicone filled butt splices with heat shrink are now the approved method.
 
   / Need quality trailer wiring kit. #26  
Deere part no. and pricing for that?
 
   / Need quality trailer wiring kit. #27  
I love these. In the process of changing all of them as needed. Both on the tow-er, and the tow-ee.
Have had a couple for a while and they seem very durable.
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   / Need quality trailer wiring kit. #29  
If I could find a do it yourself 4 pin connector that was quality I’d love to just make my own with automotive heavy gauge wires.
I may look into that as well.
a bit pricy, but deutsche connectors & heavier gauge wires for the connections/splices change over to a 7 pin for the main. My Kaufman came with wires that look about like lamp cord for most of the runs.

 
   / Need quality trailer wiring kit. #30  
I’ve bought aftermarket LED lights for a couple Of my small general purpose/landscape trailers.
The lights work fine but the freaking wires are so thin inside the insulation and the insulation gets brittle very fast , the wires corrode quickly and I lose function of my lights.
I got a new kit from the auto parts store and installed them.
Same issue not too long after.

Is there a good quality kit out there that actually works, not made in China?
I feel your pain. Had the same thing happen to me a couple years ago. Ended up buying a trailer wire kit (minus the lights)...forget where but it was likely either Walmart or HF. Wiring was 18 ga stranded copper. Was a bit of a hassle soldering the wires into the lights (for whatever reason, the internal pins were reluctant to take solder), but eventually succeeded.

Other than the connector/adapter pins getting corroded no issues since.
 
 
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