Snow Attachments need opinions on front bucket snow plow, again ?

[GrayBeard]

Happy New Year all !
I did finally pick up a 6' Meyer plow and A frame.(used)
Tell me if this is a good or bad idea....
I'm getting ready to go to work on the bracket for the bucket.
From an operational stand point when plowing, is the "resistance" from the plow itself enough to cause the loader to float or will it still put the bucket down to the road surface ?
It appears setting level, the plow edge is about 4-5" below the lowest point on the A frame.
The reason for the "?" is I was thinking of mounting the A frame under the bucket rather than in it ?
Then I was going to fab a wide angle welded to the top of the A near to the "sector" ( lock pin) to recieve the leading edge of the bucket.
The back of the A extends past the rear of the bucket. I would then use a chain and binder to hold in place.
Thus if the blade won't make the fel float there's a lot of angle iron under the bucket to do damage.(black top)
'Hope the question is understandable ?
Many Thanks
GrayBeard

 

[Mark_in_NH]

If I am picturing correctly what you are describing, the only way your plow / bucket is going to float, is if you manually put the loader into the float position. This is going to allow the loader arms to drop until something stops them by making contact with the ground. This something is going to be your A frame that is under your bucket. Kind of like a plow shoe.
My front plow is attached via a quick tach assembly. I find that I cannot run it in the float position because the loader arms will drop until the quick tach plate and locking pins hit the ground.
In the attached picture you can see how my plow arms are pinned into the quick tach plate and tower, pretty much like they would be attached under a pick up frame. There is enough play to allow the plow blade and A frame the ability to rise and fall and to ride independantly over the terrain.
When I plow, I just set the bucket dump angle so that my plow blade sits pretty much straight and then I drop the loader arms till I hear the usual plow blade being dropped sound and off I go.

 

[Mark_in_NH]

My whole set up

 

[Mark_in_NH]

If I did not have the quick tach set up, I would have attached my plow to my buckwet using this method (picture attached)
I would suggest using a bracket like this verses putting the A frame under the bucket.

 

[Mark_in_NH]

Setting it up more like this I think you would be able to set you loader into the float position. The loader and bucket will float as normal and the plow blade and A frame will also be able to float somewhat independantly of the loader.
Make sure you blades trip ability is still functional.

 

[tc35dforme]

Here's my setup...simple, but works out fine.

When plowing, I set the bucket bottom level or just slightly angled to vary the pitch of the snow blade, but about 3-4" above the ground. The plow blade just rides the bumps and goes with the surface of the gravel drive.

I don't have a top mount on the plow. The chain is simply for transport..so the weight of the plow doesn't torque the bottom of the bucket. Its a lightweight " snowbear" plow so the total weight is about 225 pounds or so. A great advantage when pulling it off to stack snow with the bucket.

 

[GrayBeard]

Thanks for the comments, 'guess I'd better not argue with success.
The only reason I thought about the under side method is that all the "lateral" force would be directed to the leading edge of the bucket.(imho)
That's going to be the strongest part of my bucket.
It's a 4' Woods.(I think that's what Cub uses.) The tractor is a 7264.
I wanted to try to avoid bolting or welding extra iron in the bucket. If that the correct way then that's what I'll do.
My guess is the plow and A frame weigh about 250 lbs.
I should have added that I'm planning only on manual angle.
If I'm understanding correctly, those folks with mounts directly in the bucket do not "float" the loader ? They just set the bucket and go?
Good pics.
Thanks again.

 

[tc35dforme]

I really can't disagree with the leading edge mount. The issue would be making up some sort of clamping arrangement to mount the plow side to the lip. I'd worry more about that going side to side ( slipping along the edge ) and loosening from the abuse.

I had no real issue drilling the bucket bottom to bolt on a mount. The holes provide good drainage when moving wet material /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

It may not be necessary to say this, but I will...remember that you are using the blade to push snow. Be carefull trying to be a bully. Watch for frozen and hidden objects that will slam the rig if hit hard. Go slow, let the plow do its thing, and don't try to be a hero by plowing like the highway trucks with the 12' blade. There have been cases of damaging the tractor or loader arms/frame by biting off more than the plow can spew.

 

[JackIL]

There are 2 considerations that have to be dealt with here. First, the blade needs to be able to float independently of the loader boom as others have pointed out. In addition, when the blade is in the normal operating position, the pivot for angling it must be perpendicular to the ground. If it is not perpendicular, when you angle the blade for side casting (either manually or hydraulically) one end of the blade will rise and the other will fall the same amount. Then the low end will gouge the road surface.

I have a JD front blade on the 420 loader on my 955. It connects to the Quick Tach on the loader boom and has its own float with respect to the connection on the boom. See attached photo. When operating you have to be careful to judge just how far to lower the boom each time to get it at the same place so that the blade pivot ends up perpendicular to the road.

JackIL

 

[GrayBeard]

I appreciate the comments.
I'll definately go slow until I know all the "limits".
I do understand the relation between the pivot pts. and the road as Jack mentioned.
Weather I go in the bucket or under, I've got the sideways motion figured.
I'll be welding a 3/8"x5"x width of the bucket,plate on the frame of the plow for torque on the bucket edge.
One thing I'm still not sure of; are the folks with plows mounted on the fel arms able to float the loader or not ?
Thanks
GrayBeard

 

[lamarbur]

the other problem is, with the plow tab mounts now under the bucket, you'll never be able to float, push on the level. Tose tabs will be lower and casue one to tilt the bucket forward which can easily cause digging that you may not want to happen. Mine is identical to the picture Mark showed with the tabs welded in the bucket., which also gives all the push pressure on lower bucket arms and that's where I want it.

 

[snowbound]

Re: need opinions on front bucket snow plow, again

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( One thing I'm still not sure of; are the folks with plows mounted on the fel arms able to float the loader or not ?)</font>

I can float the loader but I don't do that all the time because then there isn't always enough weight on the front wheels for traction. I pick up the arms just a tad and that works well for me on the slopes.

 

[Mark_in_NH]

I cannot float my loader because the quick tach plate and lock pins will dig nto the ground. I only drop my loader arms enough for the plows cutting edge to make solid contact with the ground. The plows built in float ability takes over from there.

 

[GrayBeard]

Thanks for the help.
I'm going to the local weld shop and get some iron Sat. morning
I'll be mounting in the bucket. I didn't think mounting under would "fly" but it did look good for load transfer.
I don't want to "destroy" the road.
I'll try to post a pic. or two when I'm finished.
GrayBeard

 

[htiek126]

I quickly mounted my Meyers snow plow under my Hino FEL bucket last year during a storm. The leading edge of the bucket slipped under a piece of metal near the apex of the A frame, I put two C clamps on the leading edges of the bucket to the A frame, and I welded two short pieces of rebar off the back of the bucket to the ends of the A frame. The A frame was about 4" off the ground, the bucket was a few more inches of the ground, and I adjusted the bucket angle to level the blade front to rear. With the FEL floating, it worked great.

The blade off the front of a FEL bucket works great as long as you are working in big open spaces, otherwise, I would take the time to push the blade as close as possible to the front of the tractor.