</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I have been digging around for weeks now and am leaning toward the Miller 210 with the 3035 spool gun unless I can find out how easy the aluinum feed kit is to use on the Lincoln255. Lots of good things said about it by lots of users. )</font>
I believe that the spoolgun setup on the MM210 is better than on the Lincoln (the PowerMIG 215) - at least in that you just pickup whichever lead you want to use and burn. On the PowerMIG 215 you have to flip a switch to use the spoolgun - dunno if it's like that on the PowerMIG 255 or not.
I believe the voltage control on the MM210 (and MM255 and PowerMIG 255) are infinitely variable - which can be good or bad depending - good in that you can dial the unit in very precisely - bad in that it might be harder to set up correctly, and to repeat previous settings. The PowerMIG 215 is a tapped unit with seven tap selections for voltage control, which allows setting the unit to exactly the same voltage settings every time. I have seen a number of experienced, professional welders on the Hobart boards commenting that they had no problems with a tapped unit, and some even preferred them (repeatability) If you plan on switching back and forth alot with aluminum and steel I'd imagine that having a spoolgun would be the more convienent setup.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I really looked at the ESAB multi function 260. That machines has MIG< STICK< TIG all on board. It is pricey but nice. )</font>
Yeah they look really nice - I looked at those too but there was no way I could go the ticket. One comment I did find on the Hobart boards that would lead me to do some investigation before I went with a ESAB unit was made by a guy who said that his local welding supplier sold RED & BLUE but serviced all three brands. The comment was that the supplier had one 55 gallon drum for replaced parts for the RED machines, one for the BLUE machines but 5 for the YELLOW machines.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Any more info on your unit now that you have used it a bit more? )</font>
All I can tell you is that it has worked great for me so far - absolutely no problems - which is pretty good, considering that I am a complete newbie to welding with no formal education in it, just having been shown a little by my neighbor who is a professional welder with 30 years experience. He thinks there might be hope. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
I have used the PowerMIG 215 to weld up the bed frame for a 2 ton dump wagon I am building (see attached pic), welding 3" x 2" rectangular tube with wall thicknesses from .25" to .1875", plus some other fab work on various pieces of equimpment (leaf vac, new stand for my Harbor Freight bandsaw, brackets for my pallet forks, etc.), thickest being .375 barstock. The thinnest I've (sucessfully) welded with it is 16 gauge hot roll sheet that I used to make a boot for my mower deck for a leaf vacuum. Tried thinner but no joy (no doubt my fault) Ran a lot of bead on the dump bed frame and never had the unit exceed the duty cycle.
I have another project coming up with some thick stuff - 3/4" steel for the main wedge and a slip-on 4-way wedge for a logsplitter I am building. It will be interesting to see how it performs on that - it will have to be done in multiple passes because of the thickness.
One thing I like (and dislike) about MIG is how fast it is - allows you do get alot done in short order. On the otherhand, I often wish it took a little longer than it does so I could work on perfecting my technique and be able to dawdle a little bit and enjoy the actual experience - it always seems like I'm having to hurry as a result of the process (GMAW) I think someone here (wroughtenharv ?) wrote a rather poetic post on really getting into the actual doingness of it. For me that doesn't happen often (although I wish it did) because of the speed of the process and how short my welds are.