Need help trailoring for the first time

[tjse9006]

I have a 16 foot tandem axel trailor(7000lbs). I have to take my 2520 to the shop for some work tomorrow. I've searched and can't find any specific advice on how to strap the tractor down safely. I bought three 10,000 pound straps (3300 working). I also have a 5000 pound strap. My problem is where to run the straps. I know I need to cross the axle and have down force but every time a I do this the tires get in the way or I don't feel like I'm getting enough force to properly secure the tractor to the trailor. Is this a problem? I thought buying the straps was good but after researching I think I will get chains for the future. Won't help me tonight. Any advice in strapping the tractor down safely would be appreciated. I won't have any implement on. Thanks! Tony

 

[thatguy]

Not an expert by any means.. But a lot of ppl like to tie down all four corners separately.. I have only used two chains previously (1 in the front, 1 in the rear) - but luckily never had chance to test out how good it holds.

On the front i would come off the axles to the front corners of the trailer (if you only use one strap you can go from one corner over the axle and down to the other corner). You probably want to cross the straps so you dont have tire interference.

One the rear i would either go from around the axles OR from the hitch (not the 3pt hitch) point. You will probably want to cross the straps as well.

good luck..

brian

 

[Jaylegger]

The attached load securement standard is pretty much the North American standard.

http://ca.wrs.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0oG73FGQudLt2oBuS7rFAx.;_ylu=X3oDMTBybnZlZnRlBHNlYwNzcgRwb3MDMQRjb2xvA2FjMgR2dGlkAw--/SIG=127rb6qjh/EXP=1273533382/**http%3a//www.ccmta.ca/english/pdf/Standard%252010.pdf

With respect to criss-crossing, I see no benefit unless used for strap clearance purposes. I would expect criss crossing straps is less safe than not. Should one strap break the additional length required for x-crossing potentially allows considerably more movement of the load.

 

[rekees4300]

Nylon ratchet straps are out. You need good 3/8" chain with hooks On the rear put a clevis thru the drawbar (not the 3pt) and on the front if no hitch for backing is installed chain around the axle (use towels, blankets, or the short heavy nylon straps with steel ring from trailer suppliers to protect the paint). The pockets on the trailer you attach the chain to need to be at lest 1' behind the rear clevis and 1' in front of the front clevis. The chain should be fed down through the pocket and the hook brought up so that it hangs down on the side of the pocket. This will keep the chain from unhooking if it happens to go slack. The 1' or more will make the chains tight against each other. Never tie straight down. Binders - 2 types are brake over and screw. The screw type are safer to use and can be gotten tighter but they cost more. If you use the brake over type be sure to tie the handle closed with a steel wire or wrap the extra chain around the handle and binder so it will not pop open. Go down the road a mile or so and stop to check your load, the chains should still be tight,if not redo the binders. The chains, even on rough roads, should have no slack.

 

[whistlepig]

On the front I have a heavy metal plate for attaching weights under the radiator. I chain the front down by looping a chain over this plate. On the rear I have a large clevis attached to the drawbar. I loop a chain through this clevis. I angle the chains away from the tractor on both ends. When I tighten the rear chain it pulls the front chain tight. I use chains and ratchet type chain booms. I don't like straps because they will stretch and loosen. Chains stay tight.

 

[Jaylegger]

Nylon ratchet straps are out. You need good 3/8" chain with hooks On the rear...

Not true, webbed straps are perfectly fine.

 

[Jaylegger]

The tie-down fact from fiction issue has recently been discussed in following thread.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/trailers-transportation/166964-chains-binders-should-i-use.html

 

[Iowachild]

Not an expert by any means.. But a lot of ppl like to tie down all four corners separately.. I have only used two chains previously (1 in the front, 1 in the rear) - but luckily never had chance to test out how good it holds.

On the front i would come off the axles to the front corners of the trailer (if you only use one strap you can go from one corner over the axle and down to the other corner). You probably want to cross the straps so you dont have tire interference.

One the rear i would either go from around the axles OR from the hitch (not the 3pt hitch) point. You will probably want to cross the straps as well.

good luck..

brian

The regulations I find state that under 10,000 lbs., two tie downs are sufficient. Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration Parts 393.128 and 393.130. Of course you can always use four.

 

[Trails2004]

Not true, webbed straps are perfectly fine.

I dont think webbed straps are the same as ratchet straps- right :thumbsup:

 

[Jaylegger]

I dont think webbed straps are the same as ratchet straps- right :thumbsup:

Not true , rekees4300 posted that nylon ratchet straps are out. By "nylon" he is referring to what is also known as "webbed" straps therefore, for tie down purposes, they are one and the same ratcheted or not.

 

[rekees4300]

This is a ratchet strap. I personally would not use these for trailoring a tractor but if YOU wanna use them then good luck.

 

[Jaylegger]

This is a ratchet strap. I personally would not use these for trailoring a tractor but if YOU wanna use them then good luck.

Instead of a 1" strap like that posted (4 of which which would not meet the strength required for a 3,000 lb tractor and anyone following the securement standard wouldn't use anyway) what about a 4" strap with a WLL of 6600#'s as apposed to a 1" of 500#'s?? I wouldn't feel safe with this chain either.

To put aside one's subjective feeling on matter, carrier tie-down standards I would hope are based on objective testing and data which if adhered to should provide a reasonable level of safety and provide protection from negligence.

 

[Egon]

If you use the brake over type

If you are using this type of load binder watch your hands when you snap it over.

 

[BruceWard]

If we are talking about a JD 2520 Product Specification for 2520 4WD Compact Tractor (26.5hp)

Then the 10,000 pound break strength straps are plenty for its 1865 pound weight.

I am not familiar with the tractor so I am unsure of the best place to position the straps. But the straps are plenty to hold the weight.

 

[whistlepig]

Nylon stretches. Chains do too. But chains don't stretch near as much as nylon. Don't get me wrong. Nylon does have the strength. We use nylon straps rated for 40,000# where I work. We also have chains rated for the same capacity. When the crane picks up 40,000# with the chains the stretch is not noticeable to the eye. When the crane picks up 40,000# with a nylon strap the strap stretches several feet before the lift. For me a nylon strap tying down a tractor is like using a giant rubber band.

 

[kebo]

If you are using this type of load binder watch your hands when you snap it over.

Good advice, and wear good gloves too. Also, when you try to snap it down, be prepared in case it decides to pop back up on you. You can use a cheater pipe, just be ready if it snaps back and you lose your grip on the pipe!

When I use my load binders, I try to have some excess chain left over so I can wrap it around the handle on each binder a couple of times (and tie it off) after I snap it over. This helps prevent them from popping back over if your chain gets loose while you are in transit. Also good idea to stop and check the binders every so often.

 

[some zilch]

snap binders are an accident waiting to happen when they let go as you are either tightening or loosening them. alot of people also seem to "forget" to somehow tie them shut so they dont snap open going down the road. i personally, refuse to use snap binders, and only use ratcheting binders. i also would not use a strap to hold my tractor to the trailer; an attachment/the loader yes, but the machine itself no.

you can chain a tractor down w/2 chains and 4 binders, and still pull from all 4 corners

 

[Ken45101]

snap binders are an accident waiting to happen when they let go as you are either tightening or loosening them. alot of people also seem to "forget" to somehow tie them shut so they dont snap open going down the road. i personally, refuse to use snap binders, and only use ratcheting binders.

The driver for the local tractor store uses a big cheater pipe to pull down the smap binders. He told me that he has been hit in the face by it flying back :confused2:

Ken

 

[tjse9006]

Thinks for the advice guys. I got it there safely but I have to admit the feeling of one of those straps breaking was not comfortable. I will get 3/8 chain and rachet tie downs for future hauling. Just to be safe. Thanks! Tony

 

[Duffster]

Nylon ratchet straps are out. You need good 3/8" chain.

Even if you couldn't use straps you don't need 3/8 chain, way overkill for a 2520.