Need help fixing my tractor

[Reddog5175]

Your picture shows only the gearbox, not the shafts going in or out, so I cannot see. But my first thought is that the clutch pack is for the (hydraulic) PTO.
Do you have a (PTO) shaft inside the (drive) shaft for the PTO on the engine side?
If you have the tractor split, you could turn the shafts by hand and see what happens. If the tractor is not split, you could have some one turn the engine by hand, end see what happens in the gearbox. (try "in gear" and try in neutral) If the gears don't turn, its a clutch problem.
Make sure the gears and the gears shifter are in neutral before assembling, and test.

The clutch pack discoloring is from the welding or heat treatment in the factory, I think.

Did you get it fixed already?

I have attached a few pics that shows the shafts etc. I do have the tractor split and have turned the shafts by hand as explained in my first post. I am still working on it

 

[Dave M7040]

I decided to start reading the posts from the beginning and try and consolidate the opinions that seemed to agree.

From the owner Reddog5175 a description: I installed the new clutch, put the tractor back together and it fired right up. I pushed the clutch in and it felt fine. I pushed the clutch in, shifted into 1st gear, let the clutch out and the tractor wouldn't move. I did this in all 3 gears and reverse and it won't move. If I leave the tranny in gear ( any gear ) and push the tractor it will roll like it is not in any gear. I then shifted the PTO into the 2 different RPM, let the clutch out and the PTO output spins as it should.

We have all been trying to figure out the clutch pack and what it does. BertZegers comment: But my first thought is that the clutch pack is for the (hydraulic) PTO. This makes a lot of sense particularly when the owner says the pto works as it should!

Accepting that the clutch pack has nothing to do with the problem, JoecDeere brings us back to the basics saying: Drive clutch disc installed backwards?

Along the same line of thought Banjodunn says: Also check the clutch plate on the input shaft splines for the correct fit I have assembled one before in a rush and not checked the fit to the spline and found that the box had the wrong plate in it and it would spin on the shaft, also check to make sure there are not transport bolts in the pressure plate these bolts hold the mating face back and allow for easier assembly.

It seems many agree that the problem lies with the simple original clutch. I blew up the latest photos from the owner and think I see a problem with the splines on the clutch disk but I am not certain what I am looking at is actually part of the main clutch so perhaps this can be clarified. The splines look damaged and perhaps BanjoDunn is correct in saying the clutch disk may not be the correct fit for the transmission shaft splines and the shaft is spinning within the clutch disk. I am not certain and others should weight in.
My suggestion to Reddog5175 is for him to disassemble the main clutch and try sliding the clutch disk unto the transmission shaft I marked with a red arrow to see if they lock together.

Take photos as you disassemble the clutch so we can see the orientation of the clutch disk and also are there any no transport bolts or clips as suggested by Banjodunn which are preventing the clutch pressure plate from squeezing the clutch disk to the flywheel.

Dave M7040

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

Wow! No pressure Reddog but you asked for help and got someone going the extra mile for you... Don't drop the ball! :thumbsup:

 

[BertZegers]

Looking at the pictures makes me think you split the tractor at the gearbox / rear end. Most of us don't know your tractor. A picture that shows the split tractor would help.

If you have the tractor split, (at the clutch housing) than you could put your old clutch plate on the "in" shaft of the gearbox. Then turn the clutch plate with gearbox in neutral (clutch plate should turn free) than test with gearbox in low gear (tractor should want to move). If so, the problem is not your gearbox or rear end but your clutch assembly.

 

[Kernopelli]

You stated "...........including having a new hub machined that holds the throwout bearing." I too had a worn TO bearing release hub on my MTE2000D and I had to machine a new one. Are you sure the "new" hub or clutch release fork isn't the culprit here? Also curious if the brass hub bushings were replaced? As a side note, your MT250 is similar enough to my MTE2000D that I use the 250's service manual for my tractor.......Mitsubishi made Case IH's compacts and the 254/255 models have a lot of crossover to our models and use the same hubs as my 2000D. New hubs and bushings are available from Case Parts | Buy Online & Save and parts diagrams are available on their website.

 

[Reddog5175]

You stated "...........including having a new hub machined that holds the throwout bearing." I too had a worn TO bearing release hub on my MTE2000D and I had to machine a new one. Are you sure the "new" hub or clutch release fork isn't the culprit here? Also curious if the brass hub bushings were replaced? As a side note, your MT250 is similar enough to my MTE2000D that I use the 250's service manual for my tractor.......Mitsubishi made Case IH's compacts and the 254/255 models have a lot of crossover to our models and use the same hubs as my 2000D. New hubs and bushings are available from Case Parts | Buy Online & Save and parts diagrams are available on their website.

I want to say thank you to all who had input into fixing my tractor, I have found the problem and it will be fixed this weekend. Ends up the problem was the High/Low range shifter lever had broken off inside. I was stuck in neutral ( which it must be in to start the tractor ) when I would shift into low or high range it would stay in neutral because the broken lever was not moving out of neutral. Wanted to say again thanks for all the input.

 

[Kernopelli]

I want to say thank you to all who had input into fixing my tractor, I have found the problem and it will be fixed this weekend. Ends up the problem was the High/Low range shifter lever had broken off inside. I was stuck in neutral ( which it must be in to start the tractor ) when I would shift into low or high range it would stay in neutral because the broken lever was not moving out of neutral. Wanted to say again thanks for all the input.

Glad you figured it out. When I read what happened, I remembered I too have had the same issue. The good news is it is likely an easy fix, on mine s the "pin" broke on the end of the lever that slides the gear. The lever was easy to remove from the side of the case and I MIG'ed it back on with no more issues......must have been 7-8 yrs ago now.

 

[orezok]

The pressures required to operate the clutch pack will be much higher than compressed air.
Do you have an owner's manual for your tractor which would provide a clue as to the purpose of the clutch pack.
I had asked before if you had a shuttle shift but you did not answer.
Dave M7040

I used to own and operate a automotive transmission shop years back. Clutch packs like this were always tested with air to assure proper operation. Hit them with 100# of air and they will slam back and forth. Now 100# isn't enough to make them lock up under normal operation, but is enough for testing.

 

[KWentling]

The pressures required to operate the clutch pack will be much higher than compressed air.


My 100 HP Case power shift operates at 120 psi, although they are a different style clutch than this, I'm sure 90 psi air would tell you
if it was working or not. A big air leak would indicate a blown seal.

Kim