Need Advice on JD purchase

[OhioTractor44065]

Hi...I pposted the below in the general forum....note sure if anyone has some insights here but they would be most welcome:


Hello:

This is my first post but I would like to thank everyone in here for the info they have provided in other posts....it has been very useful.

OK, I need some advice. I am purchasing a new tractor and have narrowed it down to 2, JD2720 and JD 3520. The 3520 is not a hydro while the 2720 is. I have never driven a substantial tractor (outside of a garden tractor) without a hydro. However, the dealer is offering me a pretty good deal to get it out of his dealership (about 20% off list including implements...the difference is about $3500 between the 2720 and 3520) so I am tempted considering the upgrade in power/tractor over the 2720.

My question is, how hard will it be to learn to use the power reverser gear tractor? Is there anyone in here that recently learned to use a gear tractor and if so, how has it gone?

 

[WH401]

I didn't recently learn to drive a gear tractor, I learned long ago. But I did recently just get introduced to a shuttle shift transmission, I.E. the PowrReverser, and it's very simple.

First on the floor of the driver's area you get a clutch on the left side, and 2 brake pedals, each corresponding to each rear wheel, on the right side of the floor. The brake pedals can be latched or unlatched together so you apply both brakes at the same time or independently.

To the left of the drivers seat you get 2 shifters. The farthest back one is your range selecter and it consists of A, B, & C range. Basically like a low, medium, and high, with A being the lowest and C the highest. The other handle on the left side of the seat, that is the farthest forward, is your gear selection shifter. It's basically the same as a shifter you would find in an automobile with a manual transmission. You get 4 speeds on this shifter, laid out in an H pattern.

Finally you have your "F-N-R" lever that is located on the dash, just to the left of the steering wheel. Push it in either direction to go that corresponding way, and move it in between F and R to move in to Neutral.

Now to get going. First you push the clutch in, select your range, then select your gear. Now there are 2 ways you can go about starting to move from this point on. 1, release the clutch and just push the "F-N-R" to forward or reverse, which ever one you want. The hydraulicly accuated clutch will engage and move you smoothly along, without ever having to touch the clutch. 2, keep the clutch depressed and push the "F-N-R" lever to which ever direction you want to go, then release the clutch smoothly, as if you were in a car, and the tractor will start to move.

Now the best thing about the PowrReverser, IMO, is the fact that you don't have to clutch to switch from F to R. If your traveling forward and want to go backwards, just flip the lever. Though, if your traveling fast it is best to slow down by shifting it to N, then moving the lever to the opposite direction. This isn't because you could hurt the tractor, it's because you will become the hood ornament. Also you may shift between your 4 gears at anytime while moving. Just push the clutch in and shift like you would a car. This is because the PowrReverser gears are synchronized. The ranges aren't synched though so don't shift those while on the move. So far I love the transmission and couldn't be happier with it. My biggest reason for going with the PR, was because you don't have to run the tractor at a high RPM to achieve good performance from the tractor.

I believe that's the general operation of it, I'm sure other's will fill in if I missed something.

 

[jdbower]

Something I'd be careful of is that the 3000 series is significantly bigger than the 2000 series. When I actually saw them side-by-side and then thought about where I'd store and drive the tractor I ended up with the 2520. If you've got the space and the size of the tractor isn't daunting the 3520 is a nice tractor. Of course, having tight spaces that necessitate a 2x20 also means a lot of shifting from forward to reverse where with the eHydro this just means moving my foot over a few inches.

 

[OhioTractor44065]

Thanks Guys.

A follow question for WH401...When the reverser lever is in N, can you depress the brakes without using the clutch as you would if you are in gear? So in your example, if I am moving forward and want to reverse, I shift to N to slow down....can I depress the brake without the clutch to slow before going to R?

Thanks again!

 

[WH401]

Thanks Guys.

A follow question for WH401...When the reverser lever is in N, can you depress the brakes without using the clutch as you would if you are in gear? So in your example, if I am moving forward and want to reverse, I shift to N to slow down....can I depress the brake without the clutch to slow before going to R?

Thanks again!

Yep, if the machine is rolling in neutral you can press the brakes without having to press the clutch. The clutch only has to be depressed when your selecting your range or selecting/shifting the gears. The 2 lever's next to the seat can be engaged and as long as the reverser lever is in neutral, you will still roll.

Also just incase I misunderstood any of your question, you shouldn't apply the brakes while the tractor is in gear and moving, unless your trying to spin one wheel to get unstuck or such, only when your in neutral.

 

[Egon]

Before purchase you may want to actually try both tractors for a better comparison.

You might also want to consider the amount of loader work being done as this is one area were the different transmissions become very noticeable.

 

[ddivinia]

Hi...I pposted the below in the general forum....note sure if anyone has some insights here but they would be most welcome:


Hello:

This is my first post but I would like to thank everyone in here for the info they have provided in other posts....it has been very useful.

OK, I need some advice. I am purchasing a new tractor and have narrowed it down to 2, JD2720 and JD 3520. The 3520 is not a hydro while the 2720 is. I have never driven a substantial tractor (outside of a garden tractor) without a hydro. However, the dealer is offering me a pretty good deal to get it out of his dealership (about 20% off list including implements...the difference is about $3500 between the 2720 and 3520) so I am tempted considering the upgrade in power/tractor over the 2720.

My question is, how hard will it be to learn to use the power reverser gear tractor? Is there anyone in here that recently learned to use a gear tractor and if so, how has it gone?

Hydro is hard to beat. I have a PR in my 5525 cab and hydro 4520 cab. There are very few situations that i like the PR better.

D.

 

[LBrown59]

Hydro is hard to beat. I have a PR in my 5525 cab and hydro 4520 cab. There are very few situations that i like the PR better.

D.

Any time I am offered a choice between a MA Bell hand crank phone and todays modern phone I pick the modern phone.

 

[cast_and_blast]

Hi...I pposted the below in the general forum....note sure if anyone has some insights here but they would be most welcome:


Hello:

This is my first post but I would like to thank everyone in here for the info they have provided in other posts....it has been very useful.

OK, I need some advice. I am purchasing a new tractor and have narrowed it down to 2, JD2720 and JD 3520. The 3520 is not a hydro while the 2720 is. I have never driven a substantial tractor (outside of a garden tractor) without a hydro. However, the dealer is offering me a pretty good deal to get it out of his dealership (about 20% off list including implements...the difference is about $3500 between the 2720 and 3520) so I am tempted considering the upgrade in power/tractor over the 2720.

My question is, how hard will it be to learn to use the power reverser gear tractor? Is there anyone in here that recently learned to use a gear tractor and if so, how has it gone?

We might be able to give more/better advice if you can chime in with your intended use for this tractor. Also, what kind of acrage are you going to be using this on?

Scott

 

[Heywood Jannockitov]

Hydro is hard to beat. I have a PR in my 5525 cab and hydro 4520 cab. There are very few situations that i like the PR better.

D.

I discovered one. Blowing snow with a rear mounted blower.
With the power reverser, I sit sideways in the seat so I only have to turn my head about a 1/4 turn. The 5425 cab is roomy enough. I steer and fingertip toggle the PR forward/N/Reverse with my left hand. I work the EH hitch buttons with my right hand. My feet don't have to do anything. Couldn't do this with a hydro. E-PTO keeps the engine revs at about 1500 rpm instead of 2400 too, so PR shifts aren't at full throttle. E-PTO is awesome.

 

[OhioTractor44065]

Thanks everyone for your feed back so far.

Primary usage will be tilling and FEL, secondary will be snow removal. I have 3acres right now, though we expect to move to more acreage in the future. I am sure the 2720 is enough for my property at this point, but with the future in mind and a deal at hand, plus the tax write off, I am very temped to step up to the larger tractor.

I was just curious if there were others that learned gear tractor recently or currently use a pwer reverser (and so far have gotten great responses)....the hydro versus gear seems to be a hotly contested topic. Seems like most have hydros and that deere is pushing these (plus the 3520 the dealer is trying to move has sat there for 6 months so I wonder a little about resale). The dealer, I am sure with a sales focus in mind, disputes that a hydro is more precise/safe as some have mentioned...seems to me now that its really just a personal preference.

Thanks again for all your feedback.

 

[ddivinia]

Thanks everyone for your feed back so far.

Primary usage will be tilling and FEL, secondary will be snow removal. I have 3acres right now, though we expect to move to more acreage in the future. I am sure the 2720 is enough for my property at this point, but with the future in mind and a deal at hand, plus the tax write off, I am very temped to step up to the larger tractor.

I was just curious if there were others that learned gear tractor recently or currently use a pwer reverser (and so far have gotten great responses)....the hydro versus gear seems to be a hotly contested topic. Seems like most have hydros and that deere is pushing these (plus the 3520 the dealer is trying to move has sat there for 6 months so I wonder a little about resale). The dealer, I am sure with a sales focus in mind, disputes that a hydro is more precise/safe as some have mentioned...seems to me now that its really just a personal preference.

Thanks again for all your feedback.

Without a doubt - the 3520 with a PR instead of Hydro around here would be less desirable.

Anybody can drive the hydro - not true with a PR.

I like my hydro when I am in tight spaces - it is easier on me and the clutch.

How big a tiller are you planning on?

Any rough or finish mowing?

D.

 

[OhioTractor44065]

Tilling: About a acre at this point...again, maybe more in the future. No mowing planned at this point...I am keeping my 355D hydro to cut the lawn.

 

[WH401]

Without a doubt - the 3520 with a PR instead of Hydro around here would be less desirable.

Anybody can drive the hydro - not true with a PR.

I like my hydro when I am in tight spaces - it is easier on me and the clutch.

How big a tiller are you planning on?

Any rough or finish mowing?

D.

Anyone can learn to drive a PR. The only difference in either of them is one is powered through hydraulic coupling with infinite speeds and the other is gear driven through a hydraulic clutch with 12 set F & R speeds. On both you essentially have the same basic idea to go between F & R and it's very simple. If anything I would say the hydro is easier to learn than the PR, but really that's like saying it's easier to erase pencil then erasable pen, both do almost the same exact thing. Both are simple and it might take a minute or 2 more to pick up the PR than the Hydro, but both are supremely simple and anyone can drive either one.

 

[ddivinia]

Anyone can learn to drive a PR. The only difference in either of them is one is powered through hydraulic coupling with infinite speeds and the other is gear driven through a hydraulic clutch with 12 set F & R speeds. On both you essentially have the same basic idea to go between F & R and it's very simple. If anything I would say the hydro is easier to learn than the PR, but really that's like saying it's easier to erase pencil then erasable pen, both do almost the same exact thing. Both are simple and it might take a minute or 2 more to pick up the PR than the Hydro, but both are supremely simple and anyone can drive either one.

I think you are over simplifying the challenges of driving a manual transmission. Many people growing up these days have never driven a stick anything. With the PR you need to set the range, gear and then you have direction and you have the clutch. That is a lot more to "wrap your head around" than range and forward back. My wife has a hard time with the PR in the 5525. That is why we bought a 4520 cab for her to rake hay, etc. For some jobs I like the 4520 a lot more, but from a money perspective I would have rather bought a 5625 - more money, but a lot more tractor.

D.

 

[WH401]

I think you are over simplifying the challenges of driving a manual transmission. Many people growing up these days have never driven a stick anything. With the PR you need to set the range, gear and then you have direction and you have the clutch. That is a lot more to "wrap your head around" than range and forward back. My wife has a hard time with the PR in the 5525. That is why we bought a 4520 cab for her to rake hay, etc. For some jobs I like the 4520 a lot more, but from a money perspective I would have rather bought a 5625 - more money, but a lot more tractor.

D.

Driving the PR is just as simple as the hydro. The clutch, the hardest thing to master on a manual transmission, only has to be used when shifting ranges or gears, and even that will only come about 95% of the time when the machine isn't moving. Depress the clutch, no harder than pushing the pedals on a hydro, select your range and select your gear. Release the clutch and just push the reverser lever forward and your off. It's no more involved in going from F to R or back again than it is in a hydro.

The most complicated thing in a manual is learning the clutch and the PR almost virtually eliminates this necessary skill. The only time you do need it is if you want to shift to a higher gear while moving and you don't even have to do that. If you would rather stop and shift, it works just as well, but picking up on this is nice.

In a PR it only takes about 5 seconds longer to get moving, as you have to select 2 additional thing's, where as in a hydro you just have one shifter you need to move. But if a person can choose the range in a hydro, then they will have no problem at all choosing the range & gear in a PR. I would say the PR is only marginally more involved in operation than the hydro, but by a very, very small margin. In no way though is it too complicated for anyone to learn. If you have full use of your leg's than either transmission is easy to pick up on.

 

[Heywood Jannockitov]

With PR, you can actually shift gears when moving without "foot pedal clutching" by flipping the PR to "neutral" which is really not neutral at all, but "clutch engaged", then shifting the gear lever, then flipping the PR to forward again. I do this alot when I am really lazy, which is most of the time.
So actually you don't ever need feet to drive, unless you have to engage the diff lock.

 

[ddivinia]

Driving the PR is just as simple as the hydro. The clutch, the hardest thing to master on a manual transmission, only has to be used when shifting ranges or gears, and even that will only come about 95% of the time when the machine isn't moving. Depress the clutch, no harder than pushing the pedals on a hydro, select your range and select your gear. Release the clutch and just push the reverser lever forward and your off. It's no more involved in going from F to R or back again than it is in a hydro.

The most complicated thing in a manual is learning the clutch and the PR almost virtually eliminates this necessary skill. The only time you do need it is if you want to shift to a higher gear while moving and you don't even have to do that. If you would rather stop and shift, it works just as well, but picking up on this is nice.

In a PR it only takes about 5 seconds longer to get moving, as you have to select 2 additional thing's, where as in a hydro you just have one shifter you need to move. But if a person can choose the range in a hydro, then they will have no problem at all choosing the range & gear in a PR. I would say the PR is only marginally more involved in operation than the hydro, but by a very, very small margin. In no way though is it too complicated for anyone to learn. If you have full use of your leg's than either transmission is easy to pick up on.

One of the most important things you are missing is range and gear selection.

If you are using a PTO powered implement you need to run the proper engine RPM for the proper PTO speed. Setting the engine speed is straight forward on either one - engage the pto and set the tach to X speed. Cool...

Then you need a ground speed. With the EH you can try a range and just start pushing the forward or back pedal. More pedal or less pedal - easy to dial in. PR you will need to get the range and gear right on to set the ground speed. The EH has much more give in that perspective. Spraying or spreading fertilizer comes to mind.

Also, with doing a lot of FEL work one will find themselves using both the clutch and reserver lever at the same time. I added the adjustable shuttle o my 5525 and it helps some (adjusts the clutch engage time).

D.

 

[WH401]

One of the most important things you are missing is range and gear selection.

If you are using a PTO powered implement you need to run the proper engine RPM for the proper PTO speed. Setting the engine speed is straight forward on either one - engage the pto and set the tach to X speed. Cool...

Then you need a ground speed. With the EH you can try a range and just start pushing the forward or back pedal. More pedal or less pedal - easy to dial in. PR you will need to get the range and gear right on to set the ground speed. The EH has much more give in that perspective. Spraying or spreading fertilizer comes to mind.

Also, with doing a lot of FEL work one will find themselves using both the clutch and reserver lever at the same time. I added the adjustable shuttle o my 5525 and it helps some (adjusts the clutch engage time).

D.

I'm not trying to be rude, but do you feel it's that hard to move 2 levers to choose your range and gear compared to 1? I understand your trying to say to get your certain speed it's more involved. But you make it seem as if your exerting all of your energy and brain power to do this. Once you use the PR one time and run through all of the gears at PTO speed, you will remember which one's will work for what. Also if your in doubt, you can refer to the sticker on the tractor fender or the owners manual for a chart that will list the mph in each gear at pto speed.

In terms of being able to vary speed, yes the hydro is simpler in that aspect. But my argument to your comment of "Anyone can drive the hydro - not so with a PR" is that as long as you can operate anything motorized or mechanical, then you can drive both transmission's.

With loader work were back to the "don't have to use the clutch" point. All you have to do is move the reverser lever between "F, N, & R", the clutch is more of an option. Would it be better if you got comfortable with the clutch?, yes it would, but is it a necessity?, no.

 

[WH401]

With PR, you can actually shift gears when moving without "foot pedal clutching" by flipping the PR to "neutral" which is really not neutral at all, but "clutch engaged", then shifting the gear lever, then flipping the PR to forward again. I do this alot when I am really lazy, which is most of the time.
So actually you don't ever need feet to drive, unless you have to engage the diff lock.

It's the paraplegic's dream tractor.