Need advice on cutting fallen tree

[Freds]

Hi guys. Long time. Like the title says, I need advice on cutting a section out of a fallen tree. I have a tree about 18" in diameter that fell over, splintering, near the base. It is still attached and not a clean brake. It is laying horizontal about 3' off the ground, supported on the other end by the branches. I've cut trees down before and cut them up into log size, but never anything this big or in this position, still being attached. I can just see getting the chainsaw bound up or the sheer weight of the tree putting me into a risky situation if it shifts suddenly. Ideally I am not looking to start at the top of the tree and work my way down the trunk, just get rid of the section that's blocking my trail. I was thinking of sawing through most of it from the top, aided by a felling wedge, then finish it off by cutting up from the bottom... I tried hooking my bucket lip under it and lifting, just to see, but the tree still being attached coupled with the weight didn't even wiggle it. I was also thinking of chaining the tree to the bucket, with the bucket over the tree, just for support, but again, without knowing the weight I'm not sure if my tractor's bucket can hold it up when I cut through. I know my bucket can handle a 600 lb safe, but I'll bet this tree weighs more. Not sure whether to start sawing in the middle or to try where it broke from the base and is splintered. I have a 20" bar. Any advice appreciated. And sorry for the run-on paragraph. I remember having this problem before here. I can't drop down a line by hitting Enter for some reason.

 

[Streetcar]

How far is the tree stump from the trail?
If the tree is still supported at the stump , the bottom of the tree will be in tension. You would cut from the bottom up. Fallen timber can be very dangerous, do you have friend close by with more experience.
18 inch tree will be too heavy to lift with loader
Pictures will help

 

[Freds]

Thanks for the speedy reply, Streetcar. The tree is on the trail. It is laying across it. I have a buddy next door, but I imagine his experience is the same as mine. I've only seen him cut down small stuff. Sorry about the lack of a picture. I knew I should have taken one. And thanks for verifying the weight is too much. I'll go back and snap a pic now.

 

[KennyG]

Partially down trees can be scary but this one doesn't sound bad. If I understand correctly it's only 3 feet off the ground so you won't be under it. This far down, the branches should keep it from rolling. I would probably cut it all the way through from the bottom. Put random branches, blocks, scrap lumber, whatever under the trunk just past where you want to make the second cut and you will be able to cut it off.

 

[MacLawn]

I've cut quite a few trees, and several in the position you describe. Here's what I've done: SAFETY FIRST no matter what else!

SAFETY
Ok, now we understand that. I make sure the upper end won't twist all around when cut at bottom. Then, I slowly begin cutting from the underside near where trunk is attached to stump - you MUST be very careful at this! Least little thing, and it can twist on you, etc. When this first undercut is done, and you get the bottom of trunk on ground, I just very carefully begin cutting small pieces from the bottom undercutting as I go along. You always have several things to watch for - the upper limbs that are caught! Just take it slow and easy.

I cut the biggest southern red oak on my place when it was hit by lightening during Katrina. That thing was huge! Neighbor told me I'd never get that down… he just didn't know my cutting skills. It's been burned up for firewood a few years now. cleaned up cannot tell where it was.

Key is taking is slow and easy, and being very careful about SAFETY.

 

[Freds]

Thanks for the replies, guys. Here are some pics.

 

[Freds]

oops, they came out backwards. Not that it makes a difference I guess. The first pic is an area I'd just as soon not get into, where the top is laying.

 

[dmccarty]

I always start cutting from the top of the tree and work my way back to the stump. Getting rid of the limbs that are NOT in/on the ground stabilizes the tree and makes it safer and easier to work around the trunk. Cutting the trunk into pieces will almost certainly cause the bar to be pinched so you need to use wedges. If I can I will cut from the bottom of the trunk a an inch or two before cutting from the top of the trunk. If the tree is at waist high and the log will be cut into firewood length, I will carefully cut the trunk into cord wood size but I will NOT cut all of the way through the log. Just cut maybe 1/3 of the way through from the top and if it is easy to do an inch or so from the bottom. Basically, I am just cutting up the log while it is easier to stand instead of having to kneel on the ground. You just have to go slow and see how much you can cut without have the kerf close or the trunk split.

Eventually, almost always by using wedges, I will cut the trunk into 6-8 foot long logs. Smaller logs are easier to move by hand when they are on the ground.

I have plastic wedges. One set is 10-15 years old and I bought a second set last year because I always seem to need more than two.

Once the log has been cut back to the stump, you can more safely cut the remaining trunk on the log.

I *** ALWAYS *** wear a chain saw helmet with face shield and hearing protection along with gloves, chainsaw chaps and safety glasses.

Be Safe,
Dan

 

[bcp]

Whether or not your neighbor even knows which end of a fallen tree is the top, have him or someone with you as you cut.

Bruce

 

[Freds]

Thanks Dan. I'm *really* looking for an alternative other than going into that viney, thicket area I showed in the one pic and working from the top down. That seems more like an accident waiting to happen because I can't see all the tree where it's laying. Plus the chainsaw could grab at those vines. If it was in the open I would certainly start there.

It's looking like undercutting is the way to go. Man, that's a lot of undercutting. I better pick up some Wheaties. I really only need two cuts though, since I don't have a fireplace. I should at least be able to move it with my tractor once that section is cut out.

 

[Freds]

Whether or not your neighbor even knows which end of a fallen tree is the top, have him or someone with you as you cut.

Bruce

Good idea! Thanks.
The thought had crossed my mind and now that someone said it, will do.

 

[JRobyn]

In a situation like that, it is difficult to tell if the top or the bottom of the trunk will be in tension. I would guess that since the top appears to have made it all the way to the ground, that there is not too much tension either way and the main consideration will just be dead weight. IF all that is true, I would make a first cut up near the crown end of the tree, from the bottom up about 1/3 the way through, then thoroughly wedge this cut and then cut from the top down with more wedges once the bar is "submerged". Once the cuts begin to meet, beware of the crown end tending to roll up. At that point, I would use the tractor to push horizontally on the trunk at the cut to completely separate the two halves. After that, it should just be a matter of bucking up what is left.

- Jay

 

[CobyRupert]

.... I was thinking of sawing through most of it from the top, aided by a felling wedge, then finish it off by cutting up from the bottom...

I think your onto the right idea. Don't know if this is true or not, but when I cut up from the bottom, I offset the bottom cut an inch or two from the top cut towards the part of the tree that won't be dropping. That way when the two cuts get close and the last holding fibers break away horizontally (connecting the 2 cuts!), the chain bar is shielded from the pinching effect of the folding/ falling segment, or metal wedge, etc..

Be careful and be ready, cause some times "when she goes: She goes!" fast. Seeing how the trunk is still attached, I'd cut the branches side first. It may not have a tendency to fall as fast if supported by the branches and trunk. Watch the kerf when cutting and have wedges as forces may not be the way you think they are (example: a big branch above & close to the cut may be supporting the tree top segment and cause the top side of the trunk to be in tension rather than compression; or, not in this case, when there's a big root ball that wants to tip trunk back upright, etc..)

 

[Freds]

Looks like I should pick up some more wedges.

Great advice guys. All that's been said is helping me think things through and picture the different scenarios in my mind. I always like to overthink a project that could literally come back to bite me.

 

[k0ua]

I would try this: Hook a log chain on the butt end right up next to where it is broken off. Go down the trail a ways with tractor, I would use 2 chains to get the heck out of the way.. Pull from fixed drawbar. I know your tractor is fairly small, but it may be able to pull it loose, then just swing it around so it no longer blocks the lane and is off to the side.. I am pretty sure I could do it with mine.. I am not sure if yours can or not, but it is worth a try. No sawing, not much danger. Don't "yank" the chain, just 4wd slow steady pull... worth a try.

 

[dave1949]

Watch out for the other, smaller dead trunk that is still standing if you go to pulling and such. That is actually more of a danger to you than the tree across the path.

 

[Pilot]

I'm not thrilled with any of the earlier answers because no one addressed the apparent decay. Of the wood I can see in your pics, all of it is rotten and that's why it went down. The rot probably goes up the tree beyond the top of the highest scars visible on the bark. Wedges won't work in weak, decayed wood, so you have a complication there.

I suggest you cut into the tree here & there to see how far the decay goes, then you would have a better idea of what you are dealing with. And note that at some point along the tree, the decay may only be near the center of the tree, so you won't know for sure where the decay ends until you cut all the way thru which you don't want to do while you are just checking the tree.

I would guess that the safest place to cut all the way thru is near the limbs because they support one end of the tree. The lower end of the tree will probably not roll as the butt end will is stabilized by the fork in the remaining tree. The portion with the limbs may roll one way or the other, but it won't come downward on you--it may go upward. If the wood is sound where the limbs start, begin your cutting from the top of the log and use wedges as you go. As you get part way thru, stand back and hold the saw at arms length or as far out as you are comfortable so you will have a little space between you and the tree in case the unexpected happens.

With the top cut off you may be able to pull the lower part loose with your tractor.

Good luck on this and let us know how it goes.

 

[Freds]

I like that idea of breaking the fallen tree loose. At least I won't have to worry about where the tension is if I have a free end to work from.

You bring up a good point, Dave. Actually an excellent point, as you guys don't know the half of it. I didn't take a picture of the whole tree.
There is actually another fallen timber from the same tree that's been leaning against some other trees for the 13 years I've owned the place. It's not as large as the fallen part. I hadn't realized the whole tree was dead until that big section fell in a windstorm. Pulling on the fallen part to break it free might cause the leaner to move somehow.
I always thought the leaner was kind of neat, like an archway to that section of my property. More fuel for thought.

 

[Freds]

Thank you very much for the post, Pilot. You brought up something that after reading my post above this, is affirmative. The whole tree is decayed. I did not know that the wedges may not work because of this.

I am so glad I came here to ask questions before diving into this. Lots to consider. And I will indeed let everyone know the outcome.

 

[bcp]

...As you get part way thru, stand back and hold the saw at arms length or as far out as you are comfortable so you will have a little space between you and the tree in case the unexpected happens.

I think the ideal saw in these situations would be a power pole chain saw (gas or electric) with a longer bar and chain installed. Who cares if it is slow?

Bruce