Need advice on cutting fallen tree
- Thread starter Freds
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In a situation like that, it is difficult to tell if the top or the bottom of the trunk will be in tension. I would guess that since the top appears to have made it all the way to the ground, that there is not too much tension either way and the main consideration will just be dead weight. IF all that is true, I would make a first cut up near the crown end of the tree, from the bottom up about 1/3 the way through, then thoroughly wedge this cut and then cut from the top down with more wedges once the bar is "submerged". Once the cuts begin to meet, beware of the crown end tending to roll up. At that point, I would use the tractor to push horizontally on the trunk at the cut to completely separate the two halves. After that, it should just be a matter of bucking up what is left.
- Jay
- Jay
CobyRupert
Super Member
I think your onto the right idea. Don't know if this is true or not, but when I cut up from the bottom, I offset the bottom cut an inch or two from the top cut towards the part of the tree that won't be dropping. That way when the two cuts get close and the last holding fibers break away horizontally (connecting the 2 cuts!), the chain bar is shielded from the pinching effect of the folding/ falling segment, or metal wedge, etc..
Be careful and be ready, cause some times "when she goes: She goes!" fast. Seeing how the trunk is still attached, I'd cut the branches side first. It may not have a tendency to fall as fast if supported by the branches and trunk. Watch the kerf when cutting and have wedges as forces may not be the way you think they are (example: a big branch above & close to the cut may be supporting the tree top segment and cause the top side of the trunk to be in tension rather than compression; or, not in this case, when there's a big root ball that wants to tip trunk back upright, etc..)
k0ua
Epic Contributor
I would try this: Hook a log chain on the butt end right up next to where it is broken off. Go down the trail a ways with tractor, I would use 2 chains to get the heck out of the way.. Pull from fixed drawbar. I know your tractor is fairly small, but it may be able to pull it loose, then just swing it around so it no longer blocks the lane and is off to the side.. I am pretty sure I could do it with mine.. I am not sure if yours can or not, but it is worth a try. No sawing, not much danger. Don't "yank" the chain, just 4wd slow steady pull... worth a try.
dave1949
Super Star Member
Watch out for the other, smaller dead trunk that is still standing if you go to pulling and such. That is actually more of a danger to you than the tree across the path.
Pilot
Veteran Member
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I'm not thrilled with any of the earlier answers because no one addressed the apparent decay. Of the wood I can see in your pics, all of it is rotten and that's why it went down. The rot probably goes up the tree beyond the top of the highest scars visible on the bark. Wedges won't work in weak, decayed wood, so you have a complication there.
I suggest you cut into the tree here & there to see how far the decay goes, then you would have a better idea of what you are dealing with. And note that at some point along the tree, the decay may only be near the center of the tree, so you won't know for sure where the decay ends until you cut all the way thru which you don't want to do while you are just checking the tree.
I would guess that the safest place to cut all the way thru is near the limbs because they support one end of the tree. The lower end of the tree will probably not roll as the butt end will is stabilized by the fork in the remaining tree. The portion with the limbs may roll one way or the other, but it won't come downward on you--it may go upward. If the wood is sound where the limbs start, begin your cutting from the top of the log and use wedges as you go. As you get part way thru, stand back and hold the saw at arms length or as far out as you are comfortable so you will have a little space between you and the tree in case the unexpected happens.
With the top cut off you may be able to pull the lower part loose with your tractor.
Good luck on this and let us know how it goes.
I suggest you cut into the tree here & there to see how far the decay goes, then you would have a better idea of what you are dealing with. And note that at some point along the tree, the decay may only be near the center of the tree, so you won't know for sure where the decay ends until you cut all the way thru which you don't want to do while you are just checking the tree.
I would guess that the safest place to cut all the way thru is near the limbs because they support one end of the tree. The lower end of the tree will probably not roll as the butt end will is stabilized by the fork in the remaining tree. The portion with the limbs may roll one way or the other, but it won't come downward on you--it may go upward. If the wood is sound where the limbs start, begin your cutting from the top of the log and use wedges as you go. As you get part way thru, stand back and hold the saw at arms length or as far out as you are comfortable so you will have a little space between you and the tree in case the unexpected happens.
With the top cut off you may be able to pull the lower part loose with your tractor.
Good luck on this and let us know how it goes.
I like that idea of breaking the fallen tree loose. At least I won't have to worry about where the tension is if I have a free end to work from.
You bring up a good point, Dave. Actually an excellent point, as you guys don't know the half of it. I didn't take a picture of the whole tree.
There is actually another fallen timber from the same tree that's been leaning against some other trees for the 13 years I've owned the place. It's not as large as the fallen part. I hadn't realized the whole tree was dead until that big section fell in a windstorm. Pulling on the fallen part to break it free might cause the leaner to move somehow.
I always thought the leaner was kind of neat, like an archway to that section of my property. More fuel for thought.
You bring up a good point, Dave. Actually an excellent point, as you guys don't know the half of it. I didn't take a picture of the whole tree.
There is actually another fallen timber from the same tree that's been leaning against some other trees for the 13 years I've owned the place. It's not as large as the fallen part. I hadn't realized the whole tree was dead until that big section fell in a windstorm. Pulling on the fallen part to break it free might cause the leaner to move somehow.
I always thought the leaner was kind of neat, like an archway to that section of my property. More fuel for thought.
Thank you very much for the post, Pilot. You brought up something that after reading my post above this, is affirmative. The whole tree is decayed. I did not know that the wedges may not work because of this.
I am so glad I came here to ask questions before diving into this. Lots to consider. And I will indeed let everyone know the outcome.
I am so glad I came here to ask questions before diving into this. Lots to consider. And I will indeed let everyone know the outcome.
I think the ideal saw in these situations would be a power pole chain saw (gas or electric) with a longer bar and chain installed. Who cares if it is slow?
Bruce
