OP
Need Advice about this Truck...
- Thread starter miramadar
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OP
miramadar
Gold Member
The axle code on the door post reads "39".
The GVWR is 9200#.
JB4310
Super Member
Looks like it's the higher gears like you suspected.
http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_cat...d_ratio_do_i_have_in_my_ford__is_it_posi.html
This chart shows 3.55, non posi
JB.
OP
miramadar
Gold Member
Thanks for the info.
Another question...I plan to tow my Kioti CK27, which weighs about 4400# w/ FEL. So, I'll be looking for a trailer. This truck has the bumper hitch and a hidden gooseneck hitch in the bed. Which type of trailer should I get? Bumper or gooseneck?
I have some implements that I'd haul with me...box blade, 2-bottom plow, middle buster and possibly a rototiller. I was thinking that a bumper hitch would be better because I would have the entire bed free to haul the implements. Advice??
Dmace
Elite Member
I would definitely go with a bumper pull trailer for that tractor and at least a 10k GVWR trailer. A 7k would do it but not leave much room for anything else.
JB4310
Super Member
I have no experiance with goose necks, but it sounds like for your needs that reciever hitch I see in this picture should be all you need. Maybe have it looked at by someone who knows towing to confirm that it would be rated for what you need. Looks like it to me from the picture.
Maybe a 4 or 5 ton equipment trailer, 16 - 18 feet.
JB.
crashz
Elite Member
Same advice as for the trailer. A good 10K lb bumper pull, 18 - 20ft would do nicely.
Looks a bit smokey at start-up. Does it idle rough when cold like that? Smooth once warmed up?
Most likely it needs a set of injectors. Get a good diesel shop to sell you a new or rebuilt set of balanced injectors. With new injectors, you might as well put a new injection pump in it as well, as low pop pressure and a poor spread pattern are usually hand -in - hand.
But the good news is that the cost of all of those parts will only cost about the same as one injector for a modern diesel truck. I will need to do injectors and a pump on my 6.2L diesel soon as well, and again, the parts are much cheaper than the modern stuff. I'm looking at about $350 for all eight injectors and about $500 for a rebuilt pump.
Another bit of good news is that the parts are worn, but the truck still runs. And will continue to run. It will just get a little smokier and harder to start. It most likely won't leave you stranded until the day the pump finally gives up.
Don't even look at the E-bay parts. Go to a reputable Stanadyne authorized repair shop.
There is also a remote chance on the 7.3L trucks that there could be a coolant leak through porous cylinder walls. I remember this being a problem on trucks that did not have regular coolant service, as the coolant would age and begin to cavitate at the cylinder walls, eventually erroding a hole into the combustion chamber. Monitor your coolant level and use the Ford collant additive and you will not have a problem.
Believe me when I say that the 7.3L Internationals were some of the best old school diesels offered in pick-ups of that era along with the Cummins. They have decent power (but not too much) and are very reliable. Sooooo much better than the block cracking, head cracking, crank throwing POS 6.2L that GM/Detroit dared to curse customers with.
Looks a bit smokey at start-up. Does it idle rough when cold like that? Smooth once warmed up?
Most likely it needs a set of injectors. Get a good diesel shop to sell you a new or rebuilt set of balanced injectors. With new injectors, you might as well put a new injection pump in it as well, as low pop pressure and a poor spread pattern are usually hand -in - hand.
But the good news is that the cost of all of those parts will only cost about the same as one injector for a modern diesel truck. I will need to do injectors and a pump on my 6.2L diesel soon as well, and again, the parts are much cheaper than the modern stuff. I'm looking at about $350 for all eight injectors and about $500 for a rebuilt pump.
Another bit of good news is that the parts are worn, but the truck still runs. And will continue to run. It will just get a little smokier and harder to start. It most likely won't leave you stranded until the day the pump finally gives up.
Don't even look at the E-bay parts. Go to a reputable Stanadyne authorized repair shop.
There is also a remote chance on the 7.3L trucks that there could be a coolant leak through porous cylinder walls. I remember this being a problem on trucks that did not have regular coolant service, as the coolant would age and begin to cavitate at the cylinder walls, eventually erroding a hole into the combustion chamber. Monitor your coolant level and use the Ford collant additive and you will not have a problem.
Believe me when I say that the 7.3L Internationals were some of the best old school diesels offered in pick-ups of that era along with the Cummins. They have decent power (but not too much) and are very reliable. Sooooo much better than the block cracking, head cracking, crank throwing POS 6.2L that GM/Detroit dared to curse customers with.
OP
miramadar
Gold Member
It idles rough for about 5 seconds after start-up. After than, smooth. The smoke lasts much longer though.
The previous owner was aware of the cavitation problem in these engines, and he told me that he always used the additive. I will continue to do so as well.
My brother-in-law, who works for the Highway Dept. in KY and is very well versed with equipment and trailers, said that the bumper hitch could use a little beefing up. He wasn't so much concerned with straight downward force of the trailer, but the torque that was created during braking that could cause the whole hitch/step of the bed to cave inwards towards the cab of the truck. He recommended welding a couple of braces on each side to help strengthen it. In the pic below you can see that the single arm on each side is really all that holds the hitch receiver assembly. As constructed, it should be plenty strong for downward force. But the lateral forces might be an issue.
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Diamondpilot
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I agree about that hitch. A few braces will make it rock solid.
Chris
Chris
OP
miramadar
Gold Member
I found this site online. Have any of you ever used this site to purchase diesel parts?
Diesel Care Inc
crashz
Elite Member
While its pretty smokey, it does sound like typical wear of the fuel system. You could always give it a compression test just to make sure (use the glow plug holes).
Another thing to check is the glow plugs. If only 5 or 6 are working, the truck will start fairly easily, but the cylinders with dead plugs will not burn as efficeintly as the hot ones. Glow plugs are wear items, are fairly cheap, and if you go to the trouble of checking each one, it might be worth doing the compression test (just like a gasser, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE POWER WIRE FROM THE INJECTION PUMP!) and replacing the glow plugs.
GM used AC Delco plugs (g-90?) that would swell in the head. Don't know if the Ford glow plugs do the same. If you remove them, be very careful not to break the ceramic tip off into the cylinder or precup. If they resist at all once the threads are free, they may be swollen. Maybe someone who has doen glow plugs on the 7.3 can chime in here. Or check with your diesel shop of choice.
The fact that the PO knows about and has done preventive maintenance to the cooling system is great.
That link didn't mention anything about being a certified Stanadyne shop (I think Stanadyne was the injection system manufacture for those motors, but I'm not sure), but you could call and ask. Maybe the parts are new. Prices are great though. I might use them for my truck!
Another thing to check is the glow plugs. If only 5 or 6 are working, the truck will start fairly easily, but the cylinders with dead plugs will not burn as efficeintly as the hot ones. Glow plugs are wear items, are fairly cheap, and if you go to the trouble of checking each one, it might be worth doing the compression test (just like a gasser, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE POWER WIRE FROM THE INJECTION PUMP!) and replacing the glow plugs.
GM used AC Delco plugs (g-90?) that would swell in the head. Don't know if the Ford glow plugs do the same. If you remove them, be very careful not to break the ceramic tip off into the cylinder or precup. If they resist at all once the threads are free, they may be swollen. Maybe someone who has doen glow plugs on the 7.3 can chime in here. Or check with your diesel shop of choice.
The fact that the PO knows about and has done preventive maintenance to the cooling system is great.
That link didn't mention anything about being a certified Stanadyne shop (I think Stanadyne was the injection system manufacture for those motors, but I'm not sure), but you could call and ask. Maybe the parts are new. Prices are great though. I might use them for my truck!
OP
miramadar
Gold Member
Update on this truck...
While milling around under the hood, we found that the fan moved back and forth a little when you wiggled it with your hand. So, we ended up spending the better part of this past Sunday replacing the water pump (bearing was going bad causing the fan to move). Not an overly complicated repair...cost me $70 or so.
We've also noticed that, when running, it looks like diesel fuel pools up around the injectors on top of the motor. Obviously the injectors are leaking. We figure it's the little O-ring on the tip of the injector that has failed. It looks to be about 4 injectors leaking. We plan to replace all the injectors. Anyone else on here had this problem with the 7.3 engine?
Other than that, the truck is running great. Still yet to tow a trailer with it, but look forward to it.
While milling around under the hood, we found that the fan moved back and forth a little when you wiggled it with your hand. So, we ended up spending the better part of this past Sunday replacing the water pump (bearing was going bad causing the fan to move). Not an overly complicated repair...cost me $70 or so.
We've also noticed that, when running, it looks like diesel fuel pools up around the injectors on top of the motor. Obviously the injectors are leaking. We figure it's the little O-ring on the tip of the injector that has failed. It looks to be about 4 injectors leaking. We plan to replace all the injectors. Anyone else on here had this problem with the 7.3 engine?
Other than that, the truck is running great. Still yet to tow a trailer with it, but look forward to it.
Had a 93 460. Sure looks familiar. IIRC you can swap the bottom half of the back seat with the front. Or keep an eye out for take off seats at a motor home or van conversion company.
Take a look at the cardin joint (front universal) on the front drive shaft. There is a centering ball joint in there that takes a needle type grease gun tip to grease it. The cnetering ball joint keeps the assembly from hangining or flopping around. I learned the hard way (and apparently the seller didn't know anything about it either) about it. It is a PITA to change the u joints in that (I've done singles, but this particular one was difficult). The problem only showed up when the right front hub was engaged.
Take a look at the cardin joint (front universal) on the front drive shaft. There is a centering ball joint in there that takes a needle type grease gun tip to grease it. The cnetering ball joint keeps the assembly from hangining or flopping around. I learned the hard way (and apparently the seller didn't know anything about it either) about it. It is a PITA to change the u joints in that (I've done singles, but this particular one was difficult). The problem only showed up when the right front hub was engaged.
