Need a pto log splitter guru for advice J_J?
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J_J
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Yes sir, that is correct. Between the pump and FEL.
If it is convenient for you to see as you operate the tractor.
You can also see at what pressure it takes to operate any cyl, motor, etc.
If you are only lifting about a half load, you might see half pressure. If you are splitting logs, you will see what pressure it takes to split a log.
Most relief settings are about 50 to 100 psi below the max pressure rating on the pump, but you also have to figure the max pressure in the components such as cyl, hyd motors, etc.
If it is convenient for you to see as you operate the tractor.
You can also see at what pressure it takes to operate any cyl, motor, etc.
If you are only lifting about a half load, you might see half pressure. If you are splitting logs, you will see what pressure it takes to split a log.
Most relief settings are about 50 to 100 psi below the max pressure rating on the pump, but you also have to figure the max pressure in the components such as cyl, hyd motors, etc.
I set the loader valve relief to about the same as the splitter Friday afternoon and we went and cut and split about 3 big loads (cords) yesterday and I did 2 small loads at the house Saturday and it works ok! :thumbsup:
I still like it a little quicker on retract but I believe I will use it as is. It surprised me that the tractor hydraulics actually worked as good as they do it saved me some time getting it ready to work thanks everybody for suggesting that I use them! :thumbsup:
I still like it a little quicker on retract but I believe I will use it as is. It surprised me that the tractor hydraulics actually worked as good as they do it saved me some time getting it ready to work thanks everybody for suggesting that I use them! :thumbsup:
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LD1
Epic Contributor
I think it is time for a bigger truck now
Yeah I did over do it a bit! :laughing:
Actually I have Air Lifts on it is the only reason its not azz dragging the dirt but also I dont make a habit of loading it like that.
Well also my buddy that was going to pull the pub couldn't show and I didn't have the receiver hitch welded into the back of my trailer yet to pull my "PUB" (pick up bed trailer) behind next time I go out I will and spread it out some. :thumbsup:
Here is a review of the splitter re-build and how its working so far. I have used my splitter a bunch since I switched it to tractor hydraulics and it works great and its simple and simple is good.
I haven't found but a few knot heads it had trouble with the rest it splits with ease the fast extend is excellent and overall probably saves time vs the old gas engine setup just guessing on a day of splitting.
I have to admit I like it a lot and I was skeptical it would work good enough!
So if that info helps someone make a leap of faith great I thank all the guys that helped me JJ, LD1, and the others you all saved me a lot of time thanks! :thumbsup:
I haven't found but a few knot heads it had trouble with the rest it splits with ease the fast extend is excellent and overall probably saves time vs the old gas engine setup just guessing on a day of splitting.
I have to admit I like it a lot and I was skeptical it would work good enough!
So if that info helps someone make a leap of faith great I thank all the guys that helped me JJ, LD1, and the others you all saved me a lot of time thanks! :thumbsup:
PhysAssist
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- Kubota B2320
Hi All,
I hope from the last post on 10/14 to now isn't really THAT long for a thread to be revived...
but I have a question that I'm not sure how to ask succinctly.
I have used my Heathkit splitter [circa 1981] purchased used about a decade ago, for long enough I think. A couple of years ago I put a new HFT 6.5 HP motor on it 'cause the original B&S threw a rod.
But, it still seemed to lack its previous splitting power [to be fair it had sat outside with the cylinder extended for couple of years], so after consulting with Dalton Hydraulics, I put a new 2-stage 11GPM pump on it, and it worked great.
Then last year, we got some G%%D@#$ hard to split wood from an ash that was gifted to us, and not only wouldn't it split that wood, it lost all the power we had achieved with the new motor and pump- though the cycle speed was great.
Since then the HFT china motor lost its spark- I think rodents chewed the innards.
Since we have a shiny new Kubota B2320, I've been reading all the threads on here about PTO pump vs tractor hydraulics, and the thing that resonates with me the most is the possibility of getting shut of having one more motor that's used only a few times a year to maintain, when I have that shiny diesel that I know we're going to using all the time.
So I'm trying to figure out if my tractor hydraulics at 11GPM and about what? 2200 psi will adequately run that splitter [not as cheap as I'd like 'cause its likely to need a new cylinder to split effectively], or the TSC 3-PT splitter well enough to use, or am I going to have to get a PTO pump [I found one for 289 at spliteez.com] to get the speed and power I need from the TSC model.
My domestic boss just wants something to use today and everyday from here on in with no fixin or kludges ot finagling....
Any Suggestions??
I will appreciate any input you can all provide- espcially gurus like Mr. JJ!!
Thomas
I hope from the last post on 10/14 to now isn't really THAT long for a thread to be revived...
but I have a question that I'm not sure how to ask succinctly.
I have used my Heathkit splitter [circa 1981] purchased used about a decade ago, for long enough I think. A couple of years ago I put a new HFT 6.5 HP motor on it 'cause the original B&S threw a rod.
But, it still seemed to lack its previous splitting power [to be fair it had sat outside with the cylinder extended for couple of years], so after consulting with Dalton Hydraulics, I put a new 2-stage 11GPM pump on it, and it worked great.
Then last year, we got some G%%D@#$ hard to split wood from an ash that was gifted to us, and not only wouldn't it split that wood, it lost all the power we had achieved with the new motor and pump- though the cycle speed was great.
Since then the HFT china motor lost its spark- I think rodents chewed the innards.
Since we have a shiny new Kubota B2320, I've been reading all the threads on here about PTO pump vs tractor hydraulics, and the thing that resonates with me the most is the possibility of getting shut of having one more motor that's used only a few times a year to maintain, when I have that shiny diesel that I know we're going to using all the time.
So I'm trying to figure out if my tractor hydraulics at 11GPM and about what? 2200 psi will adequately run that splitter [not as cheap as I'd like 'cause its likely to need a new cylinder to split effectively], or the TSC 3-PT splitter well enough to use, or am I going to have to get a PTO pump [I found one for 289 at spliteez.com] to get the speed and power I need from the TSC model.
My domestic boss just wants something to use today and everyday from here on in with no fixin or kludges ot finagling....
Any Suggestions??
I will appreciate any input you can all provide- espcially gurus like Mr. JJ!!
Thomas
J_J
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2003
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- 18,952
- Location
- JACKSONVILLE, FL
- Tractor
- Power-Trac 1445, KUBOTA B-9200HST
I also built one of those Heathkit log splitter kits way back when, and it worked well for a long time until I sold it..
If you know that your pump is good, you are off to a start.
You were not clear on the old Heathkit cyl. If it is still good, and the valve is good, then all you need is a motor to turn the hyd pump.
If you want to convert the cyl to a 3pt log splitter, then you need to get the fluid from the tractor to the input of the log splitter valve, and return the fluid.
If you know the relief pressure on the loader valve, we can determine the force and we know the flow, so by knowing the cyl bore size and rod size, we can compute the cycle time.
http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/005/8/6/5860-kubota-b2320.html
You might have a PB port to run some hoses to the back for the log splitter hyd supply.
From the specs, it looks like you have about 4.7 GPM's for implements, and 3.6 GPM's for steering.
With GPM's that low, I believe I would install the valve by Prince called a fast extend valve, LSR-3060,
It will take that 4.7 GPM and make it act like about 28 GPM.
The lever on the valve fully fwd, will put the valve in the fast extend. For max power, pull the lever back a little.
I would recommend installing a 3000 psi hyd gage in the hyd system.
Let me know what pressure you read after fully extending or retracting the cyl.
If you know that your pump is good, you are off to a start.
You were not clear on the old Heathkit cyl. If it is still good, and the valve is good, then all you need is a motor to turn the hyd pump.
If you want to convert the cyl to a 3pt log splitter, then you need to get the fluid from the tractor to the input of the log splitter valve, and return the fluid.
If you know the relief pressure on the loader valve, we can determine the force and we know the flow, so by knowing the cyl bore size and rod size, we can compute the cycle time.
http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/005/8/6/5860-kubota-b2320.html
You might have a PB port to run some hoses to the back for the log splitter hyd supply.
From the specs, it looks like you have about 4.7 GPM's for implements, and 3.6 GPM's for steering.
With GPM's that low, I believe I would install the valve by Prince called a fast extend valve, LSR-3060,
It will take that 4.7 GPM and make it act like about 28 GPM.
The lever on the valve fully fwd, will put the valve in the fast extend. For max power, pull the lever back a little.
I would recommend installing a 3000 psi hyd gage in the hyd system.
Let me know what pressure you read after fully extending or retracting the cyl.
Last edited:
PhysAssist
Elite Member
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- Aug 22, 2011
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- Kubota B2320
Hi JJ,
The problem is that I can't tell if it's the Heathkit's valve, or more likely [it seems from all the reading I've been doing] the original cylinder that is the problem.
Like I said it seemed to run great for about 1 season of splitting after adding the new 2-speed pump and motor, but then after trying to split a tree's worth of super hard stuff I got from my B-I-L, it seems to have permanently damaged one or the both of those components.
I've been assuming it's the cylinder because it sat out for a year [before I rehabbed it] in the weather with the ram extended and got some surface rust on the polished areas.
That's why I'm looking at the County-line 3-pt splitter with a 4 in. x 24 in. hydraulic cylinder from TSC. Limited specs here:
CountyLine 3-Point Hitch Log Splitter - 2153304 | Tractor Supply Company
I guess what I'm asking is would my tractor's hydraulics run this splitter, or would you suggest either a PTO-driven pump or would that "new" Prince 2 speed valve be necessary to get reasonable splitting power and speed.
Thanks for answering me so quickly- I hope I'm making some sense???
Thomas
I know that it will be more expensive than rehabbing the Heathkit- but my boss [the Mrs.] wants no kludges and a once-and-for-all fix for this [now perennial] problem.
The problem is that I can't tell if it's the Heathkit's valve, or more likely [it seems from all the reading I've been doing] the original cylinder that is the problem.
Like I said it seemed to run great for about 1 season of splitting after adding the new 2-speed pump and motor, but then after trying to split a tree's worth of super hard stuff I got from my B-I-L, it seems to have permanently damaged one or the both of those components.
I've been assuming it's the cylinder because it sat out for a year [before I rehabbed it] in the weather with the ram extended and got some surface rust on the polished areas.
That's why I'm looking at the County-line 3-pt splitter with a 4 in. x 24 in. hydraulic cylinder from TSC. Limited specs here:
CountyLine 3-Point Hitch Log Splitter - 2153304 | Tractor Supply Company
I guess what I'm asking is would my tractor's hydraulics run this splitter, or would you suggest either a PTO-driven pump or would that "new" Prince 2 speed valve be necessary to get reasonable splitting power and speed.
Thanks for answering me so quickly- I hope I'm making some sense???
Thomas
I know that it will be more expensive than rehabbing the Heathkit- but my boss [the Mrs.] wants no kludges and a once-and-for-all fix for this [now perennial] problem.