Need a pto log splitter guru for advice J_J?

[J_J]

NO, the auto log splitter is a two lever valve that you set the two levers, and the cyl will split and retract and return to neutral. This give one the time to get the next log ready.

Surplus Center - 1 SPOOL PRINCE AUTO CYCLE LOG SPLITTER VALVE W/PB

A funny situation, or maybe not. This guy was telling me that he built a log splitter years ago, and added an accumulator to the circuit. He said when he pulled the valve leaver for the first split, the cyl was so fast that the log almost exploded and split with enough force to knock his butt over. He revised his design after that.

American bulldog, has this setup on his log splitter. It has the auto log splitter valve with a log lift and wedge lift.

Look here and go to post #26 for the start.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/power-trac/183187-log-splitter-3.html

 

[Car Doc]

He has an impressive splitter no doubt about it!

 

[Car Doc]

I got my Prince fast extend splitter valve today. I got it installed and ran it just a little with 8' long hoses attached to the tractor and the splitter still on its old chassis.

I had to get back to the real make a living work so didn't split many logs. I did a few but its FAST extend that is no exaggeration and it seems to have the power so far! :thumbsup:

The 2 speed works great it retracts as fast as the slow forward speed is and right at this moment is a bit slow for me but I need to adjust the bypasses etc and play with it I may grow to like it its not terrible bad as is.

I got a couple pics I will take more as I get the 3pt mount built but I am out of time today so cant.

 

[J_J]

Glad you got it working.

It should retract faster than the slow extend due to less volume needed.

 

[Car Doc]

I just went to town and got the couplers and fittings and a bracket for the couplers to mount them on the back of the tractor. I also got a draw bar to weld the splitter to.

I believe I am going to mount just the splitter beam with 3 pt attachments and save the chassis for maybe building one for sale later.

If this proves to be too slow etc I can always build my own tank to fit my new chassis and add a pto pump time will tell on what I do.

I still need to rig a gage up to check all my relief valve settings maybe later this week I will get around to that. Tomorrow I plan on working late and get the majority of the mounting done because we are cutting wood Sunday I am going to try it out.

 

[J_J]

Here are a couple of gage setups.

 

[Car Doc]

I am mostly done with it as of this morning I added the rack back on and put a longer hose on one port. I found out yesterday afternoon 1 was too short to lower the 3pt all the way down no biggy just another $50.

I still need to do the hydraulics pressure check but I took it home last nite and split some wood I had there and it works ok. The 2 speed forward on the handle is cool because it is FAST I mean fast the retract is painfully slow is my only gripe.

Today after I changed the one hose for an experiment I ran the return straight into my trans fill plug opening to see if returning it directly into the sump helps and it does a little so there is some sort of restriction in my 3pt hydraulic valve circuitry. (adds credence to what I suspect about my loader running slow at times fwtw)

That said its still to slow for me on retract so maybe there will be improvements if and when there is adjustments to the pressures time will tell.

I will call Prince and see if they can help me tweak it a bit if that could be done I would be as happy as I could be. :thumbsup:

update: I just called Cylinder Services where I got the valve and there isn't any adjustment and I have it installed correctly so I will have to learn to time myself around the retract. Once I get the PBY setup on the loader and splitter it will all be as good as I can make it with a tractor pump.

 

[Car Doc]

Here are a couple of gage setups.

Thanks for the tip JJ!

Here is what I built and I checked the splitter valve and its set at 2250 psi just like they said. I need to put QC on my loader next and set it I know its messed up I adjusted it trying to get it working right.

How am I going to check my tractor relief setting is what I am wondering maybe a dumb question sorry?

Would I dead head the new QC I added at the rear and start the tractor meaning remove the hose loop going between the pressure to the return back of the tractor thats all I can think of I dont want to hurt anything?

 

[J_J]

If you are using the plug in gage, just activate the lever momentary for that hose and the pressure will show on the gage.

If you install the gage at the input to the FEL valve, it will read the pressure for any valve activated, the FEL, 3pt, or log splitter, or BH.

All three could be set different, but for the most part, set them all the same as the FEL relief relief setting, since it is the main hyd relief, and sets the high limit for the hyd system.

You could plug it in at the back, as the flow is coming from the FEL valve, but would only test the FEL valve. The relief is going to scream until you shut off the tractor.

I think I would only test the pressure at the IN port to the valve, or the work ports.

The only things that will increase speed is more GPM's, and smaller cyl, smaller rod size.

 

[J_J]

TEST, Using a new capture program, and Hydraulic calculator.

Seems to work fine.

Shows the calculations for different cyls.

Bottom right picture is with regen valve.