My two Stihl's.

[LD1]

I wonder what type of wood that was in the first vid.

Because wood type makes a HUGE difference. Cutting something like poplar or pine is no comparison to hard maple, oak, etc.

As to the sprocket, all I can say is try it, Your not out much $$ and go with what you like. The 8 pin will give a noticable boost in speed when limbing. But will most likely slow you down a tad in the bigger...say 12"+ stuff. So its a trade-off if you are a one saw person and only use the 361.

Personally, I stick to the 7pin. Even on my monster 8400. Because I like to lower the rakers to ~.050-.060. When I put a stock chain on, they just feel like turds. A few file strokes across the rakers of a new chain and I'm in business. But it isnt reccomended for a beginner. It WILL make the saw more grabby on the small stuff and you HAVE to let the saw cut. My buddy cant run my saws, because his habit is to dog in and "help" the saw. Try that with my 8400 and it will stall in even 15" wood. Just let the saw cut on its own. When it quits pulling itself, then its time to sharpen.

 

[ruffdog]

LD1...I like my chain "grabby" too. I don't like to have to force my saw to cut.:thumbsup:

 

[xyz123]

This guy has both 361 and 460 ported saws and prefers the 361.

Who wouldnt there is almost 2lbs or more in PHO weight to start off with and running only 16" bars.

I know that guy personally. I know he has sold off his 361 and 460 and went with 440 with 460 tops.

No on your other question.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

I wonder what type of wood that was in the first vid.

Because wood type makes a HUGE difference. Cutting something like poplar or pine is no comparison to hard maple, oak, etc.

As to the sprocket, all I can say is try it, Your not out much $$ and go with what you like. The 8 pin will give a noticable boost in speed when limbing. But will most likely slow you down a tad in the bigger...say 12"+ stuff. So its a trade-off if you are a one saw person and only use the 361.

Personally, I stick to the 7pin. Even on my monster 8400. Because I like to lower the rakers to ~.050-.060. When I put a stock chain on, they just feel like turds. A few file strokes across the rakers of a new chain and I'm in business. But it isnt reccomended for a beginner. It WILL make the saw more grabby on the small stuff and you HAVE to let the saw cut. My buddy cant run my saws, because his habit is to dog in and "help" the saw. Try that with my 8400 and it will stall in even 15" wood. Just let the saw cut on its own. When it quits pulling itself, then its time to sharpen.

It may be three year old bug killed pine.

I have the Stihl 021 that I bought new a long time ago that had not seen a lot of use because my Echo that I had used when we heated with wood when missing right after we went all electric in the house.

We have some large locust trees that are dead/down due to storms. That is the preferred tree for making post in our area because they are steel like and can last 50+ years. The 361 will be able to deal with them and other big stuff having more than twice the HP and built to pro specs. Hopefully it is a good saw head. The owner of it cut wood (still heats with wood) with it last week but at 75 has to have a family member to start it for him.

Thanks for covering what you mean by a chipper chain. I had never got my mind around the difference but now understand they just can take bigger bites. For my usage I will stay with the safety chain feature. I will pick up an eighth tooth drive sprocket for the heck of it.

Sure is a lot of confusing talk about two cycle oil out there but plan to go with Stihl oil now. Have used a 40:1 WM TCW3 for a few years with get success but it is not cheap compared to the old run of the meal TC oil. Going with the top Stihl oil will not cost much more and I can keep it down to one container. The couple gallons I have mixed can just be used in one of the trucks. I plan to stick with 40:1 so it will work for all of our 2-cycle stuff.

 

[Coyote machine]

As another poster already said- until you change out that beat up bar you're doing your new chain and sprocket no favors.
And once you change out the in-tank fuel filter then you should see better overall running of the saw. There may also be an in carb filter in that saw as there are in many Stihl saw carbs- I can't say for sure on that model, but I'm sure someone here or on any number of other forums knows. If there is one in the carb, and you have any poor run conditions, consider at that point a carb rebuild and include its internal filter cleaning at a minimum when doing so.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

As another poster already said- until you change out that beat up bar you're doing your new chain and sprocket no favors.
And once you change out the in-tank fuel filter then you should see better overall running of the saw. There may also be an in carb filter in that saw as there are in many Stihl saw carbs- I can't say for sure on that model, but I'm sure someone here or on any number of other forums knows. If there is one in the carb, and you have any poor run conditions, consider at that point a carb rebuild and include its internal filter cleaning at a minimum when doing so.

Good points. I just made one cut with the new chain and it ran well. Tomorrow I will get some Stihl synthetic mix. It is running off the gas that came in the saw. The guy said his grand father cut wood with it last week.

I will check out the filters. So far the saw starts, runs at WOT under load and idles very well. I will buy an new blade/chain combo so I will have two new Stihl chains to go with the new chain and drive sprocket that I got yesterday.

As long as it starts, runs and idles OK I do not plan to screw with any screws or do any mods. I just want a quality saw (as the 361 seems to be) that is heavy enough to do some fast cutting to clear future storm damage that might urgent in nature and to clean up old damage.

I see milling attachments for $100-$200 to make boards. Some report the 4+ HP 361 Shihl is powerful enough to drive the attachment. In the cleaning up process we get a log from time to time.

Anyone here tried or seen one of these attachments in real time?

 

[Coyote machine]

Good points. I just made one cut with the new chain and it ran well. Tomorrow I will get some Stihl synthetic mix. It is running off the gas that came in the saw. The guy said his grand father cut wood with it last week.

I will check out the filters. So far the saw starts, runs at WOT under load and idles very well. I will buy an new blade/chain combo so I will have two new Stihl chains to go with the new chain and drive sprocket that I got yesterday.

As long as it starts, runs and idles OK I do not plan to screw with any screws or do any mods. I just want a quality saw (as the 361 seems to be) that is heavy enough to do some fast cutting to clear future storm damage that might urgent in nature and to clean up old damage.

I see milling attachments for $100-$200 to make boards. Some report the 4+ HP 361 Shihl is powerful enough to drive the attachment. In the cleaning up process we get a log from time to time.

Anyone here tried or seen one of these attachments in real time?

Thanks man. I'm not suggesting you do any unnecessary mods- just passing along what I've learned from various forums and from practical experience over the years since the early 1960's when I first started working for a pro tree company that only used Stihls. I can't find out enough about them!
The carb screen tip is one a lot of guys are probably not aware of- but I can't say which carbs contain them and which don't.
I would hate to see you chew up a new sprocket or chain with a bad bar- that's why I mentioned to see how dull the old chain was- its a good indicator of the condition of the 'drive train', (bar/sprocket/chain) and for a few bucks can take a poorly cutting saw into great cut territory. I think you're on your way there.
What about the 40:1 mix?! Is that what that saw calls for?
BTW, thanks for the links.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Thanks man. I'm not suggesting you do any unnecessary mods- just passing along what I've learned from various forums and from practical experience over the years since the early 1960's when I first started working for a pro tree company that only used Stihls. I can't find out enough about them!
The carb screen tip is one a lot of guys are probably not aware of- but I can't say which carbs contain them and which don't.
I would hate to see you chew up a new sprocket or chain with a bad bar- that's why I mentioned to see how dull the old chain was- its a good indicator of the condition of the 'drive train', (bar/sprocket/chain) and for a few bucks can take a poorly cutting saw into great cut territory. I think you're on your way there.
What about the 40:1 mix?! Is that what that saw calls for?
BTW, thanks for the links.

Sorry I was just talking. I like all your thoughts/experiences and none of my remarks carried any negative thoughts. The mods were referring to is like porting and drilling the muffler.

The old bar is really chewed up and worn down so not wanting to mess up my new chain and sprocket I am awaiting a new bar before working the saw. I will get the old chain (some good metal remains) sharpened so I have it and the old bar for crap sawing. :thumbsup:

The saw calls for a 50:1 mix and the blower and line trimmer calls for 40:1 so I have always mixed to cover all of them. Sounds like the HP Ultra oil is high detergent over on the RC plane forum and I can expect black stuff running out of the muffler for the first couple hours of using Ultra.

Stihl Ultra Synthetic Oil

 

[ruffdog]

You might have to richen up the saw slightly if you go with more oil(40:1). If you have more oil molecules going through your jets, there is less room for the fuel molecules. Years ago, ice racers used to do minor jet changes between heats just by changing their oil mix ratios.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

You might have to richen up the saw slightly if you go with more oil(40:1). If you have more oil molecules going through your jets, there is less room for the fuel molecules. Years ago, ice racers used to do minor jet changes between heats just by changing their oil mix ratios.

ruffdog I do follow your logic but was thinking the opposite. Maybe as one ages the learning curve does not flatten out.

I was thinking of the TC oil as fuel as well since it burns. Some have referred to the lowering of the octane of the gas by adding the two cycle oil. In cars I do know pre ethanol carbs have to be rejetted with larger jets due to the lower energy level (BTU's) in ethanol to keep the power equal.

Finding ethanol free premium gas locally is starting to get hard since the first of the year. Since one can not use 87 octane in a Stihl saw per my manual one almost has to start with pumps labeled 91+ to be sure he is following the manual.

Is that why Stihl cans of premixed fuel starts out with only premiun ethanol free gas?

 

[Coyote machine]

Sorry I was just talking. I like all your thoughts/experiences and none of my remarks carried any negative thoughts. The mods were referring to is like porting and drilling the muffler.

The old bar is really chewed up and worn down so not wanting to mess up my new chain and sprocket I am awaiting a new bar before working the saw. I will get the old chain (some good metal remains) sharpened so I have it and the old bar for crap sawing. :thumbsup:

The saw calls for a 50:1 mix and the blower and line trimmer calls for 40:1 so I have always mixed to cover all of them. Sounds like the HP Ultra oil is high detergent over on the RC plane forum and I can expect black stuff running out of the muffler for the first couple hours of using Ultra.

Stihl Ultra Synthetic Oil

No worries- I wasn't taking offense at all
I'd suggest talking to your Stihl shop mechanic about what ratio to use- I've been told to use 50:1 in ALL my equipment, but I only have Stihl and Echo gas engines.
Yes, the Stihl premixed cans of gas/oil are using non-ethanol for the benefits- but I can't see doing it, personally- its a way expensive way to buy gas/oil mix. I just use the ultra and regular gas, not even high octane, and don't keep any stored fuel. I occasionally use Seafoam or Stabil and change spark plugs fairly frequently. If I'm not going to be using a saw for a while I'll drain out the gas into my container marked 'bad gas' and then use it on burn piles later.
From the descriptions of your original bar I'd toss it, or at least have your shop look at it; if it's that beat you might damage your new sprocket, and a chain that's worn out with a bar that's the same will put additional strain on your engine. If you want a stump/dirt bar get a good used one from your dealer or buy something out of Baileys or similar site- keep your 'new' saw happy:thumbsup:
I'd consider using the other saw as your disposable saw and maybe use it with a less than perfect bar/chain to do the 'dirty work, and save the big saw for the heavy lifting.:thumbsup:
And IMHO, I wouldn't worry about doing mods like muffler, porting, etc. until you get some miles on that powerhead and see what it can do stock.

 

[ruffdog]

Yes, I believe that is why you start with higher octane fuel because the oil lowers the octane.

 

[xyz123]

I run 32:1 in everything (just because I buy in bulk and easy to measure out 4 ounces and feel I get a peace of mind with extra lube) . I ran 32 in the 361 also.
I would run 40:1 in it way before I would run the epa wants you to run 50:1.

Yes if the saw is set up on 50 and you go to 40 you will be lean and have to richen it up.

You do a muffler mod (to release the beast inside the 361) to let it breathe and run cooler you will need to richen up again.

If you mix at 40 to 1 I would do the same for that saw. JMO

 

[s219]

You should use whatever ratio the oil is designed for. The newer synthetic 50:1 oils are meant to be run at 50:1 -- they provide equal or better lubrication to the older oils that needed to be mixed at 32:1 or 40:1. You're just wasting money if you take a 50:1 oil and then mix it in higher concentrations.

 

[xyz123]

Yes and some oils say to run it at 100:1 and 200:1 but I have a brain to know that I will never run that or the epa mandated 50:1 in my equipment. 40:1 or 32:1 :thumbsup:

Freedom of choice.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

I picked up a new 20" Stihl bar today and another new chain (best to rotate two per the manual). While I have a new 3/8 7 drive sprocket I picked up a 3/8 8 tooth today for the heck of it. It does jump up the size more than I expected.

This used 361 will be within $250 of a new 362 out the door so I am not sure if that savings will be that much longer term over going new. This is after the new bar, two chains and new sprocket plus fuel hose/filter like a new one comes with. At this point I know the used 361 starts well, cuts well and will idle well and can kick like a mule even with the compression release activated.:thumbsup:

One thing I have learned is some who have moved to the 362 that they are not happy with the quality of their carbs but that may be without good cause.

I went with the HP Ultra mix. 5.2 oz was $3 and that made up 1.6 gallons plus the 5 oz of oil to give the 40:1 ratio I prefer for reasons stated above. The son of the owner said while 50:1 was what they were designed to run on that 40:1 built in a safety net and it was preferred by some other customers as well.

Near me I did find an ethanol free 90 octane gas source. The Stihl dealer said ethanol was a major problem with all two cycle engines but it helped their shop stay busy I guess.

As a side note the local source has had to bump up ethanol free prices by about twenty cents a gallon. I talked to him today and delivered 90 octane was $3.94 and 93 octane was $4.07 at the moment we were speaking.

Tomorrow I am taking off since the ground had settled back up for the backhoe to dig and push well plus I want to play with the 361 to see if I bought a pig in a poke or got one mean cutting machine.:thumbsup:

So the muffler mod it ready that good?

I do not want to shorten the life of the saw with mods.

 

[Coyote machine]

Yes and some oils say to run it at 100:1 and 200:1 but I have a brain to know that I will never run that or the epa mandated 50:1 in my equipment. 40:1 or 32:1 :thumbsup:

Freedom of choice.

The newest Stihl engines and rev limited carbs are like the 100% synthetic oil, DESIGNED by the manufacturer in accordance to federal law and EPA standards, to comply with current US regulations ~ not really freedom of choice issue so much as a federal MANDATE to keep our air breathable for everyone, not just those who choose to comply. The rev limited carbs are agreed upon by the manufacturers of the carbs and the EPA as a license agreement. Stihl knows what they are doing and at what ratios their saws are intended to run, after all they designed them to run at the ratios allowed by law in the countries in which they are sold.
Nowhere have I seen a requirement to run at ratios of 100 or 200 to 1.

Another example of things done different ways is the AV requirements in the EU and US. The US is less strict and the EU requires more dampening of vibration than the States. Stihl thus manufacturers their saws to comply with the EU AV requirement for saws sold in those countries.

If you want to port/ polish and mod mufflers on saws go right ahead. The average saw user doesn't need to do any of that to get a saw to do what it was intended to do: cut wood.

 

[xyz123]

I run Klotz 100% synthetic :thumbsup: freedom of my choice. :laughing:

I'm curious to what octane gas you all use with your mix?

 

[Gale Hawkins]

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/125164.htm

Think I am glad I when with the 361 vs 362 plus I am having fun messing with chains, bars and sprockets. :thumbsup:

On the octane question for the two-cycle gas I go with the highest octane alcohol free gas that I can find. Well not over 95.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

STIHL Incorporated USA -- Information -- Manufacturing the World's Number One Selling Brand of Chain Saws

Stihl Owner Manuals

I have found when I can find online manuals I like to save them to my Desktop so anytime I can not find the paper manual and can click on the one on my Desktop and grab the info I need.