My First Real Tractor!

   / My First Real Tractor!
  • Thread Starter
#21  
Thanks California, I was in my phone so it posted out of order or something. That was odd. One more question, I'm def going to add a temp guage. Where is the temp sender in the block? Is that it beside the oil filter? What's the size of the tapped hole? Id like to get this done before I work it some this weekend. Do I just pull that out and add my guage?
 
   / My First Real Tractor!
  • Thread Starter
#22  
Think I found it actually, temp sensor up in top near the fan, correct? Need to know what size tapped hole.
 
   / My First Real Tractor! #23  
Don't bother with a temp sender. Yanmar designed these things right in the first place. Replace the sender if you are concerned about it.

It seems every new owner - me included, 14 years ago - starts off thinking the tractor needs a temperature gauge. It doesn't. The warning light is sufficient to tell you it is about to boil over, which should never happen if the cooling system is up to spec and you don't let mowing chaff build up in the radiator fins. Any operating temperature short of boilover is within Yanmar's design specs.

These were designed to run for days flat out without overheating, if the pto is powering a ditch pump, for example, and nothing we do putt-putting around is going to stress it like that. Yanmar got it right, there's nothing to improve.
 
   / My First Real Tractor! #24  
Kustrud
Welcome to TBN you sure got a good deal on that tractor looks clean when you ordered the pto seal did you order the pto housing seal.
 
   / My First Real Tractor! #25  
Don't bother with a temp sender. Yanmar designed these things right in the first place. Replace the sender if you are concerned about it.

It seems every new owner - me included, 14 years ago - starts off thinking the tractor needs a temperature gauge. It doesn't. The warning light is sufficient to tell you it is about to boil over, which should never happen if the cooling system is up to spec and you don't let mowing chaff build up in the radiator fins. Any operating temperature short of boilover is within Yanmar's design specs.

These were designed to run for days flat out without overheating, if the pto is powering a ditch pump, for example, and nothing we do putt-putting around is going to stress it like that. Yanmar got it right, there's nothing to improve.

I completely agree with California but for what it is worth the threads are m16-1.5
 
   / My First Real Tractor! #26  
If it hold pressure I'd leave it. At most have it ridden out at a real radiator shop. There like $350 new

I had my 1700 radiator rodded out for $75 bucks, looks like new. I also added a temp gauge, I just like to know exactly what temp is running. I ran it hard yesterday planting a food plot in 93 degree heat, it never got to 160 degrees. But I did install a water pump kit from Hoye.
 
   / My First Real Tractor!
  • Thread Starter
#27  
Kustrud
Welcome to TBN you sure got a good deal on that tractor looks clean when you ordered the pto seal did you order the pto housing seal.

I ordered the one directly behind the c clip on the PTO shaft on the Hoyle diagram. Part number 44 on one of the "transmission" pages.
 
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   / My First Real Tractor!
  • Thread Starter
#28  
I completely agree with California but for what it is worth the threads are m16-1.5

Thanks! And yes, I agree with that as well - I am just too OCD to not know exactly where my temperature is at
and wonder if the bulb is out or something. Just safer to me.
 
   / My First Real Tractor!
  • Thread Starter
#29  
I had my 1700 radiator rodded out for $75 bucks, looks like new. I also added a temp gauge, I just like to know exactly what temp is running. I ran it hard yesterday planting a food plot in 93 degree heat, it never got to 160 degrees. But I did install a water pump kit from Hoye.

Nice! WHat implements to you use for your food plots? I plan on using a turn plow or middle buster on some new ground, the disking the heck out of it!
 
   / My First Real Tractor!
  • Thread Starter
#30  
You used to be able to buy 'water pump lubricant' separately. (It's an ingredient in antifreeze now). Maybe look for some? That should halt corrosion.

And be sure to use only distilled water, tap water will continue the corrosion.

Is there anything I can use to flush it again that will wipe that corrosion away better than just a water hose?
 

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