Got some more done tonight, flushed the block and the radiator - bunch of crud came out of both, flushed until water was clean. Refilled with new mix of 25/75 coolant/water. Soon as my PTO seal gets here I will be changing it along with the tranny fluid as well as fuel and air filters.
My First Real Tractor!
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careyo63
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- 77 Yanmar YM2000 63 Ford 2000
Welcome! I'm just over in Walton. I think I seen that 1700 in a add before. Good deal and IMO. Should serve you well...
clemsonfor
Super Member
If it hold pressure I'd leave it. At most have it ridden out at a real radiator shop. There like $350 new
clemsonfor
Super Member
As for the fuel filter. IF your fuel shutoff at the filter works **** it off. Or pinch the line ahead of filter off with vise grips. Then take the ring off and the bowl will come out. Clean the crud out of rhe bowl and rinse with clean fuel. Put the filter and spring back like it was. Tighten the ring, replace o ring if it looks bad. You can either fill the bowl before you put it on with fuel or not. I dont. And then look on the top of the mount , above the ring. There is 2 Phillips screws. With the bowl on filter in place. Open the one on the top left, closest to upstream fuel. Open the lever or undo your pliars, open the left screw, the filter will fill with fuel and air will bleed out at screw. Levels it open till all air bubbles are gone and stop coming out at screw. Tighten it down, then go to the one right to the right of it. Do the same, fuel and air will come out till just fuel, then tighten it down when air stops coming out. Then look where the fuel line goes to the injection pump. Loosen that screw till the air stops and nothing but fuel without air bubbles comes out. Now your good. You can crank it up and not miss a beat.
Hoye has it also, I'm sure Winston or Claifornia will link you to the page that describes it with pics if you can't follow my description. If you pole around their site it's listed in some section about tech stuff, I just forget where. It might even have a link to it from the screen where you select the fuel filter from the parts diagram?
Hoye has it also, I'm sure Winston or Claifornia will link you to the page that describes it with pics if you can't follow my description. If you pole around their site it's listed in some section about tech stuff, I just forget where. It might even have a link to it from the screen where you select the fuel filter from the parts diagram?
California
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Excellent description. I don't have anything that could improve that.
California
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- Yanmar YM240 Yanmar YM186D
You used to be able to buy 'water pump lubricant' separately. (It's an ingredient in antifreeze now). Maybe look for some? That should halt corrosion.
And be sure to use only distilled water, tap water will continue the corrosion.
Yes you need to clutch, and wait for a complete stop, before shifting anything on these primitive simple designs. There seems to be a syncro in the pto but I would still let everything spin down before engaging a pto gear. Slipping the pto out of gear, however, should be ok while it's still turning but I always push the clutch in for that too. I figure it reduces stress.
And be sure to use only distilled water, tap water will continue the corrosion.
Yes you need to clutch, and wait for a complete stop, before shifting anything on these primitive simple designs. There seems to be a syncro in the pto but I would still let everything spin down before engaging a pto gear. Slipping the pto out of gear, however, should be ok while it's still turning but I always push the clutch in for that too. I figure it reduces stress.
Got it, thank you! Will report back when I do it.*
I have another question too, when I pulled the top radiator hose off the block, the post it slides over is awful corroded/rusty. Like I said, I reverse flushes the block until it was clear coming out but I don't want the post to just rust away lol. Any ideas?
Edit: just looked at a parts diagram and it looks like that piece is replaceable, it looks like a stand alone part that is threaded.
I have another question too, when I pulled the top radiator hose off the block, the post it slides over is awful corroded/rusty. Like I said, I reverse flushes the block until it was clear coming out but I don't want the post to just rust away lol. Any ideas?
Edit: just looked at a parts diagram and it looks like that piece is replaceable, it looks like a stand alone part that is threaded.