Mx5100 remotes. Questions.

[LD1]

I think I got my plan together for now.

Gonna pull off the green marked hose here

Which the other end attaches to PB at the loader.

Then I am gonna run a hose from the PB port on the loader to a triple or quadruple spool valve back beside the seat where the oem remotes mount.

Then PB out of there back to where the green hose is in the pic.

That "should" splice the remotes in after the loader valve, but before the 3ph.

Hope all that is correct.

Now just time to find a valve. Probably just gonna go with an 8gpm valve, as those seem pretty common. Even though the tractor is just a tad over 9gpm...it still uses 3/8 hoses.

I like the monoblock valves. Cheaper, compact, easier. But cannot find a 3-4 spool with anything other than spring return 3-pos spools. Would like to have at least two float, but preferably all 3. An all spring return 3-spool unit is $200-300 depending on brand.

Only way I seem to be able to find float valves though is stackables. And that pushes valve cost to about $450. If I could only find a triple monoblock with all 4-pos float spools for $250ish.

From there, motion industries can get me 1/2" again couplers with two-way sleeve for $18ea. So 6 of them+dust caps should be in the $125 range. And I will make my own clamp mounts.

6 short hoses and fittings to connect the couplers, and the hoses supplying the valve and return....prolly looking at $200 there and I'm done.

So $200 for hoses and fittings
$125 for couplers
$250(best case) $450(worst case) for a valve.

Should be able to get myself 3 remotes for $600-$800

 

[countrybumpkin]

Yes that will work just fine for the supply lines, don't forget though, you will need a line running from the new remote set to the tank return line, it can tee into the existing line running from the loader valve to the tractor.

 

[C4Ranch]

If it were me, I would get at least 1 detent. I wish I could have got one just in case I want to hook up something like a log splitter l..

 

[LD1]

If it were me, I would get at least 1 detent. I wish I could have got one just in case I want to hook up something like a log splitter l..

My thoughts are I can always manually fix the valve...bunjee or whatever. But cannot make a valve without float....operate like a float.

I can foresee no current or future uses for a detent. Not enough flow to even consider a 3PH splitter, which is about the only thing I can think of that would need one.

 

[k0ua]

My thoughts are I can always manually fix the valve...bunjee or whatever. But cannot make a valve without float....operate like a float.

I can foresee no current or future uses for a detent. Not enough flow to even consider a 3PH splitter, which is about the only thing I can think of that would need one.

The dealer recommended for me to have the detent removed when I took deliver of the Kioti so that some "less informed person" would leave the valve in detent and possibly damage the pump and generate a lot of heat. I had him remove it before delivery and have not been sorry for that decision. Like you said I can easily stretch a bungee cord if for some reason I wanted to detent the valve. I was told float was not an option on the Kioti DK35 OEM valves. however I have heard some of the retrofit by dealer valves can have float.

 

[LD1]

As mentioned, a standard 3 spool 3-pos spring return valve I can pick up for about $200.

I contacted brand hydraulics, then spoke with a distributor about ordering a monoblock valve with 3 4th pos detents. For $430, as quoted, I'd just as soon build a stack valve.

Still trying to get ahold of Baileys, they offer a chief valve, 3 spools, with only the first one having float...it's $185. Need to confirm if it is PB capable and if there is an option to get all 3 spools with float. And if so...how much$$$.

Of course the other option is to do a single spool float valve, then a diverter kit for the rest of the remotes. Not sure what those 1 into 3 electric over hydraulic diverters cost, but I am sure it is more than the $200-$300 difference between a single spool and 3 spool valve

 

[k0ua]

As mentioned, a standard 3 spool 3-pos spring return valve I can pick up for about $200.

I contacted brand hydraulics, then spoke with a distributor about ordering a monoblock valve with 3 4th pos detents. For $430, as quoted, I'd just as soon build a stack valve.

Still trying to get ahold of Baileys, they offer a chief valve, 3 spools, with only the first one having float...it's $185. Need to confirm if it is PB capable and if there is an option to get all 3 spools with float. And if so...how much$$$.

Of course the other option is to do a single spool float valve, then a diverter kit for the rest of the remotes. Not sure what those 1 into 3 electric over hydraulic diverters cost, but I am sure it is more than the $200-$300 difference between a single spool and 3 spool valve

Best you can do for the Electric/hydraulic is about $185 each.. I don't think you are going to come out money ahead that way.. It is a good way if you already have a OEM valve and want to add a valve or two easily, but in your case.. I think you need to continue along the path you are on.

 

[LD1]

Sad part is I currently have no uses at all for the remotes. But I can see myself making a toplink and sidelink cylinder soon after I get them done. Followed closely by a rear angling blade or converting my existing blade to angle.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

"Build it and they will come!"

 

[s219]

I think I got my plan together for now.

Gonna pull off the green marked hose here
View attachment 473925
Which the other end attaches to PB at the loader.

Then I am gonna run a hose from the PB port on the loader to a triple or quadruple spool valve back beside the seat where the oem remotes mount.

Then PB out of there back to where the green hose is in the pic.

That "should" splice the remotes in after the loader valve, but before the 3ph.

That's pretty much exactly how the setup works with the factory kit on the L. Just need to find a place to tie in the return from your valve stack (may be that you can use that block attachment point after all, but for a return fitting only).