Multiple drive-shaft transmission

[aczlan]

Depending on the transmission, it might also have a plate for mounting a pto.

Most PTO outputs on pickup truck transmission's are not really heavy enough to run much more than an air compressor or hydraulic pump. They are nowhere near big enough to run a snowblower like the original poster is looking to do.

Aaron Z

 

[fitterski]

So you are thinking the new version is going to be too heavy to keep everything together on the blower like you have it now? What if you had large crazy wheels on the blower to help carry the load? They would have to be adjustable for height.

It's one option but i have little confidence in it. I learned some surprises from trying to maneuver the existing rig which is close to limits if not slightly above. There are times when the 4x4 loader/backhoe can no longer push it resting on the ground, the resistance is higher then the traction and my fronts just spin, as I feed some lifting power the wheels get loaded more and traction improves. At times it becomes unsteerable and starts sliding off the convex road, there again I have to lift it a bit. So I would fear that issues like this could plague a rolling rig. Studded and chained tires help but cosdt a lot of dough, the proper way is for the host platform to be able to do whatever the driver wants it to do. I just realized last night for example that even a 150(0) class truck could underperform because it's payload is only about 2,000 lbs. I'd feel much better with a 250(0) and a 3,000 lb payload.

 

[bigdeano]

I don't know how much your blower will weigh, but a one ton pickup usually has a bigger front axle and springs than a 3/4 ton. Dana 60 vs Dana 44. Probably not much price difference on used ones.

 

[fitterski]

I don't know how much your blower will weigh, but a one ton pickup usually has a bigger front axle and springs than a 3/4 ton. Dana 60 vs Dana 44. Probably not much price difference on used ones.

I don't either, around 1500 lbs or less depending on a number of design steps, same for the rear engine + transmission or pump. Using some aluminum can help but I don't see at all how I could get it below 1,000 lbs and still accomodate the basic design imperatives. The small pickups, jimmy's and jeeps and such have a total payload of around 1500 lbs, the 150(0) class pickups and yukons around 2,000 lbs, the 250(0) class pickups around 3,000 lbs. The thing should end up being small but fast and furious, power is the name of the game. Alas there's no way I can hang 3,000 lbs on my retiring Jimmy. I mean I _could_ but maneuvering would be dangerous. The short of the long is that I will carry on with 4 possible scenarios being planned in parallel leading up to an ultimate decision months or a year down the road.

 

[farm boy00]

Been watching and figured time to chime in

I would recommend a ford or dodge. They have straight axle. Unless you go for a really old chevy you will have independent front suspension. My old duramax with a 7.5ft plow had problems at 440,000mi and started to have a front end problems. I know it was high miles but that was only a light duty plow. Not heavy snow blower.

Next thing is ford's have a better reputation for front ends but either way they will need good maintenance.

Next would be the if it is coiled or leaf spring suspension. Pre 2005 ford's have leaf springs unless someone converted them. They can hold some weight but don't have as tight turning.

Also for truck configuration i would do either single cab long box or maybe a ext. Cab for space along with a short box to keep it short.

Depending on design you could even put a salter behind it

 

[fitterski]

Been watching and figured time to chime in

you done right, friend, you done right

I like straight axle fronts, don't know why I just do. Maybe because you can put one in the back and then have a straight axle rear too, hahaha, i.e. 4 wheel steering. My Tundra also has independant fronts, it's smooth and I like the gmc's also but you're right. This rig ain't gonna fly on the aurtoroute but it does have to be able to take it. I didn't know about them front leaf springs, will have to look into it. My dad had a '55 pickup but I don't remember the suspension. I AM thinking mostly extended cab & short box. I'll also truncate the front somewhat, the front blowers like mine don't take the turns too well so being short is good, with or without 4 wheel steering

 

[farm boy00]

Here's a few videos posted on YouTube to see a few ideas

Truck Mounted Snowblower Operations Tutorial - YouTube

TRUCK MOUNTED SNOW BLOWER IN ACTION_1 - YouTube

Snowblower Truck- Stockholm Maine - YouTube

TRUCK MOUNTED SNOW BLOWER IN ACTION_2 - YouTube

 

[farm boy00]

you done right, friend, you done right

I like straight axle fronts, don't know why I just do. Maybe because you can put one in the back and then have a straight axle rear too, hahaha, i.e. 4 wheel steering. My Tundra also has independant fronts, it's smooth and I like the gmc's also but you're right. This rig ain't gonna fly on the aurtoroute but it does have to be able to take it. I didn't know about them front leaf springs, will have to look into it. My dad had a '55 pickup but I don't remember the suspension. I AM thinking mostly extended cab & short box. I'll also truncate the front somewhat, the front blowers like mine don't take the turns too well so being short is good, with or without 4 wheel steering

I actually snow plow and wont put a big plow on anything if it dont have a straight axle.

Current plow rig that im building is a 1999 f550 with 7.3 diesel and a 9.5 ft boss vplow

 

[tjkubota93]

Seems like a pto snow thrower would be something already made?

 

[franklin2]

There are times when the 4x4 loader/backhoe can no longer push it resting on the ground, the resistance is higher then the traction and my fronts just spin, as I feed some lifting power the wheels get loaded more and traction improves. At times it becomes unsteerable and starts sliding off the convex road, there again I have to lift it a bit. So I would fear that issues like this could plague a rolling rig.

The above can be a problem because the backhoe front loader doesn't have a "float" function(Mine doesn't, don't know about others).

And another useful idea is to copy what they did on my front deck kubota. The hydraulics let the front mower deck float over the ground terrain, but they also have some very large adjustable springs on the lift arms. When I go to hook the deck up in the summer, I actually have to push down on the arms to hook them to the deck. I found out this puts some of the weight of the deck back onto the tractor and it's drive tires. The springs are adjustable, so you can put more or less weight on the tractor, until they get too tight and deck starts lifting off the ground(don't think they are strong enough to do this, but haven't tried it either).

If you did get a decent sized pickup, the weight of the engine in the back would help the situation. The heavier the pickup is in relation to the blower will help it have more traction and control.

 

[muddstopper]

Most PTO outputs on pickup truck transmission's are not really heavy enough to run much more than an air compressor or hydraulic pump. They are nowhere near big enough to run a snowblower like the original poster is looking to do.

Aaron Z

Dont know how much torque he needs, but the Chelsea 249 is rated for 200ftlbs and 95hp. It also runs at about a 25% overdrive so at 1200 engine rpms he is really about 1500rpms. To get the 540rpms or even the 1000 rpms he has mentioned he could use a gear drive and get his rpms down to where he wnat them and increase torque at the same time. I'm just throwing this out there as I still havent figured out exactly what he is trying to do.

 

[Paul Thornton]

How about this?
Check out this video on YouTube:

North Country Redneck Snowblower - YouTube

 

[Paul Thornton]

Duplicate

 

[aczlan]

Dont know how much torque he needs, but the Chelsea 249 is rated for 200ftlbs and 95hp. It also runs at about a 25% overdrive so at 1200 engine rpms he is really about 1500rpms. To get the 540rpms or even the 1000 rpms he has mentioned he could use a gear drive and get his rpms down to where he wnat them and increase torque at the same time. I'm just throwing this out there as I still havent figured out exactly what he is trying to do.

He will have to get a 2011 or newer Superduty to use that, but that would be an option I suppose.

Aaron Z

 

[aczlan]

It's one option but i have little confidence in it. I learned some surprises from trying to maneuver the existing rig which is close to limits if not slightly above. There are times when the 4x4 loader/backhoe can no longer push it resting on the ground, the resistance is higher then the traction and my fronts just spin, as I feed some lifting power the wheels get loaded more and traction improves. At times it becomes unsteerable and starts sliding off the convex road, there again I have to lift it a bit. So I would fear that issues like this could plague a rolling rig. Studded and chained tires help but cosdt a lot of dough, the proper way is for the host platform to be able to do whatever the driver wants it to do. I just realized last night for example that even a 150(0) class truck could underperform because it's payload is only about 2,000 lbs. I'd feel much better with a 250(0) and a 3,000 lb payload.

Do you have skid shoes on it? How wide is the snowblower?
I have a 7' blower on the front of our Kubota L3830 (whch looks to be a lot lighter than your machine) and generally don't have an issue with sliding sideways or running out of power to push.
However, I dont have a engine sitting out there either.
How big are your skid shoes? Looking at your picture:

It looks to me like you might need more surface area to keep the blower from digging in.
I might try adding a larger skid (or, perhaps a couple of small (snowmobile trailer size?) wheels) to support the weight of the engine/blower/loader arms better.

Aaron Z

 

[fitterski]

To get a shaft from your tranny, why dont you mount a sprocket on the front of the transfer case, along with your front drive shaft, and mount another sprocket up higher so you could use a long jackshaft to run to the shaft on the blower. Of course it would only turn the blower when the truck wheels are turning, but just throwing out ideals. Depending on the transmission, it might also have a plate for mounting a pto.

I've been spoiled rotten by my own invention which lets me do the snow with the parameters that I want while driving at the speed I want. This way is impossible to beat in my book and I watch with pitty the poor slobs stalling their engines trying to serve two msters on u-tube

 

[fitterski]

Do you have skid shoes on it?....

The skids are what is left of the originals, twisted sorry JD remains but I don't use them anyway. I have complete control over the height as well as angle of the unit. That's one of the features I adore, being able to point the auger at the surface and just plane it right through any ice. I cannot do this unless the ground is frozen though. The wheel idea is something I'm keeping in my notebook for future horrors but this one might never see any. The entrance/road is also a 2200' runway and it's raised and convex to clear itself of snow when the winds howl. My loader weighs around 17,000 lbs and when I get on the sloping side I can easily start going for a riiiiiiiiiiide. I then have to quickly stop, put the load on the wheels, and slowly wiggle my way back out onto the high-way. One one occasion the slope was endless to the bottom of my gravel pit and it was ALL ice. Being paranoid I go around with the back boom unlocked so I dropped it just before I was gonna leap for it ..very few buttons remaing on the seat cushion. Chains would help but at $3000 a set and with the whole project now being revised I'll wait.

 

[fitterski]

How about this?
Check out this video on YouTube:

North Country Redneck Snowblower - YouTube

sweeet, I liker the spruce-block governor

 

[fitterski]

Dont know how much torque he needs, but the Chelsea 249 is rated for 200ftlbs and 95hp. It also runs at about a 25% overdrive so at 1200 engine rpms he is really about 1500rpms. To get the 540rpms or even the 1000 rpms he has mentioned he could use a gear drive and get his rpms down to where he wnat them and increase torque at the same time. I'm just throwing this out there as I still havent figured out exactly what he is trying to do.

I get close to that now but if I'm going to get involved again I'll want a lot more. Nor do I want any arrangement other than a separate engine. I have also been 'suggested' to use the tractor pump (no pto) but that would be woefully inadequate for what I need.

 

[franklin2]

Is there a dealer near you that sells one of these big blowers for a skidsteer? If so you could drop by and eyeball how large the pump is, the hydraulic lines, and generally how they have it setup. You could also find out the minimum gpm required from the skidsteer pump, and get a idea how much of a hydraulic pump it would require. This one is 6ft wide. They sell them for about $5000 on ebay.