Moving logs
- Thread starter gthag
- Start date
- Views: 7790
rk246
Gold Member
I have been looking at and think that a grapple would work great for this, many different options on these though, and of course can be spendy, I don't know how much you want to spend. Do a search on CT tree guys, tree bota' he has pics and explanations about a lot of his grapple stuff, very informative...
Wesdor
Gold Member
Not sure you need anything this sophisticated, but Future Forestry has some log arches that might be just the answer for you.
Future Forestry
They have lots of other products which might make your life a bit easier. Hope the cleanup is going well.
Future Forestry
They have lots of other products which might make your life a bit easier. Hope the cleanup is going well.
CamshaftLF
Silver Member
I made a triangle shaped lift that hooks to the 3pt welded it together, at the top welded two 10" pieces of 2"angle iron together with a clieves and log chain for logging so I can adjust the length easily it works very well for skidding trees, it keeps them up close to the tractor that way there's not much leverage so the front tires stay on the ground. some times the bigger trees still pulls the front end up. had all the angle iron laying around the garage and chain, just time in welding all together.
KubotaSteve
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2003
- Messages
- 834
- Location
- eastern panhandle of WV
- Tractor
- Kubota B7800 with loaded R-4s
Another solution might be forks. Check out Paynes Forks website. You could pile the logs up with the forks plus use the forks for other things as well and the cost isn't that bad. Of course you would have to get heavier ones for your L series but the set I got for my B-7800 was under $300 delivered. Keep in mind these are the ones that slip over the bucket and they work quite well. I just moved 2 of the 25 foot utility poles with mine. I have also used them to move the 8 foot railroad ties 3 at a time which was a lot of weight.
Good luck and take it slow.
Good luck and take it slow.
grandad
Platinum Member
We've been using our L4610 to gradually clear about 5 acres of pines. We're extracting the pines and leaving the good hardwoods, so it really doesn't lend itself to a logger or dozer blitzkrieg.
I'll use several techniques, depending on the specific conditions, to bring trees out of the woods to the burn pile (usually a distance of 500-1,000 ft).
The most typical setup: Pallet forks on FEL, implement such as box blade, on 3pt for ballast. I can usually slice the trunk of a downed tree into 3 or 4 sections of 8-10 ft length, loaded on the forks and also pull a log chain from the drawbar dragging the top of the tree. For anything up to maybe a 10" tree, you can move a whole tree in one trip this way.
I use this method because the trail has some narrow spots and sharp turns and this seems to be the most efficient setup using the equipment I already own.
Other folks here on TBN have gone in for some really cool dedicated equipment such as logging winches, FEL mounted grapples, etc. Depending on how much timber you have to remove, your geography, your budget, your time schedule, etc, such other attachments might make sense for you. But there is nothing on my land that the 4610 can't take down and remove using my low-tech setup, given some time and careful operation.
I'll use several techniques, depending on the specific conditions, to bring trees out of the woods to the burn pile (usually a distance of 500-1,000 ft).
The most typical setup: Pallet forks on FEL, implement such as box blade, on 3pt for ballast. I can usually slice the trunk of a downed tree into 3 or 4 sections of 8-10 ft length, loaded on the forks and also pull a log chain from the drawbar dragging the top of the tree. For anything up to maybe a 10" tree, you can move a whole tree in one trip this way.
I use this method because the trail has some narrow spots and sharp turns and this seems to be the most efficient setup using the equipment I already own.
Other folks here on TBN have gone in for some really cool dedicated equipment such as logging winches, FEL mounted grapples, etc. Depending on how much timber you have to remove, your geography, your budget, your time schedule, etc, such other attachments might make sense for you. But there is nothing on my land that the 4610 can't take down and remove using my low-tech setup, given some time and careful operation.
beenthere
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2001
- Messages
- 18,649
- Location
- Southern Wisconsin, USA
- Tractor
- JD_4x2_Gator, JD_4300, JD_425, JD_455 AWS, added JD_455, JD_110, JD_X485(sold)
I find the forks on the FEL loader work real well, not only for removal and stacking of logs, but tending a fire, and as well, moving brush. A grapple would be better, but I don't find a real need for one with the forks.
goaliedad
Gold Member
I had a chance to get some saw logs, but couldn't get a trailer close to them, plus they were in a friends yard. I don't have a FEL, so I had a simple axle rig welded up- I got an axle from a junked trailer, had it shortend up to about 4 feet- had pegs welded to keep the logs from rolling into the wheels. lifted the logs with a boom on the 3 pt- used a chain and binder to hold the log to the axle, secured the other end of the log to the boom- close to the 3 pt, lifted the log and "trailered" it to the road. Didn't chew up the guys yard, and got me some nice oak boards. The axle was a freebie- the welding was about $40.00.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
Farwell
Veteran Member
I have moved around 60 trees by using my FEL to move the trees into position so I can hook them up with a log chain. I drag them to the burn pile area and lift them into position on the pile with the FEL. If the tree is to big I cut it into smaller chunks and move them the same way. If the trees are in my swampy area where I can't get close with the log chain I have a long steel cable that I use or cut them small and carry them out by hand to my FEL and haul them to the burn pile.
Farwell
Farwell
Highbeam
Super Member
"or cut them small and carry them out by hand to my FEL"
That sound slike too much work.
If you have time and a logging chain or three, just hook on and drag them out. You either need to push them, pull them, or pick them up. Pushing is fine for short distances like into a heap to clear the road. You might aas well try dragging them if you have a chain, it's free.
That sound slike too much work.
If you have time and a logging chain or three, just hook on and drag them out. You either need to push them, pull them, or pick them up. Pushing is fine for short distances like into a heap to clear the road. You might aas well try dragging them if you have a chain, it's free.
rk246
Gold Member
You might look into a toothbar also, you can get one pretty reasonable and it will make more of a place to pick the wood up onto with your FEL and give you something to just rake the little stuff with. I ordered mine from Markham welding and am still waiting on it....
tawilson
Platinum Member
Farwell
Veteran Member
Once in a while I run into a situation where there is no other option than to cut them small and carry the logs by hand. I have a bunch of dead and dying trees in my swamp mixed in with living trees. Many times I can not get my tractor into a position where I can pull the tree with out it getting hung up and damaging a healthy tree or my running into another tree with the front end of my tractor. I have been thinking about getting a winch so I can control the pulling better. I also love good old manual labor (if I can't get out of it). I am always a little nervous pulling the trees behind the tractor because of all the horror stories of guys getting killed doing it. Eventually I am going to make something to keep the base of the tree elevated so it can't dig into the dirt or get hung up on a rock or buried stump.
Farwell
Farwell
George2615
Super Member
I cleared a 2.6 acre building lot of downed trees with the attached 3pt lifting device I built along with a pair of logging tongs. (I think Northern tool sells logging tongs) I put the tongs on the tree, attached a chain from tongs to the hook on the 3pt device and lifted the end of the tree just high enough to clear the ground and dragged away. When I got them to the area cleared out for burning I chainsawed them smaller and used the bucket to pile them in the burn pit. Most trees were about 12-16" diameter and up to 30-40' long and my 26HP had no problem dragging them.
Attachments
CT_Tree_Guy
Platinum Member
<font color="blue">(grapples look pretty cool too but expensive ). </font>
Hiya gthag, how goes it?
I have a well-deserved reputation for loving to spend other people's money, but I feel that it's been slipping a bit lately, so here goes: /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
A front grapple has got to be one of the most useful attachments I can think of - a great big powerful hand, right in the palm of YOUR hand. It makes dealing with logs and brush an absolute joy, but has so many other uses as well. You can pick up and move just about anything - stumps, your bucket, trailers, rocks, construction debris, annoying neighbors, uninvited guests, you name it.
A lot of tree guys around here started out with pallet forks, but graduated to grapples ASAP. To me, moving logs with forks is like eating hot dogs with chopsticks - yeah, you can do it, but ....
My Bradco cost $2,800, but man, is it worth it. I know, I do this for a living, I hear that loud and clear. And $2,800 starts to sound like $2.8 million real quick - been there, fairly recently in fact. But grapples are NICE - ask SkyPup. (Of course, he owns an Autogyro too - it's good to be da Pup LOL).
But it's a really good item for any "wish list". I remember the time I had to move about 200 logs and I blew out the hydraulics to the top jaws on my grapple, and I had to use it "as is", just using it like forks. Almost lost my mind, I did.
Lastly, in my own sorry defense, I hope I never come across as advocating WASTING money. There's a huge difference between spending it and wasting it.
You've probably seen this thread, but just in case, here it is again: To grapple or not to grapple - to which my answer would of course be - "Grapple" /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
And one more old "chestnut" about hydraulics, solenoids and "human nature" - Remotes and Top and Tilt? - it's a doozy /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Honorable mention to the Farmi 501 skidding winch, the Beaver Squeezer, the Implemax SmartGrapple, the Anbo and Pirhana grapples, and Mahatma Gandhi.
Good luck, John D.
Hiya gthag, how goes it?
I have a well-deserved reputation for loving to spend other people's money, but I feel that it's been slipping a bit lately, so here goes: /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
A front grapple has got to be one of the most useful attachments I can think of - a great big powerful hand, right in the palm of YOUR hand. It makes dealing with logs and brush an absolute joy, but has so many other uses as well. You can pick up and move just about anything - stumps, your bucket, trailers, rocks, construction debris, annoying neighbors, uninvited guests, you name it.
A lot of tree guys around here started out with pallet forks, but graduated to grapples ASAP. To me, moving logs with forks is like eating hot dogs with chopsticks - yeah, you can do it, but ....
My Bradco cost $2,800, but man, is it worth it. I know, I do this for a living, I hear that loud and clear. And $2,800 starts to sound like $2.8 million real quick - been there, fairly recently in fact. But grapples are NICE - ask SkyPup. (Of course, he owns an Autogyro too - it's good to be da Pup LOL).
But it's a really good item for any "wish list". I remember the time I had to move about 200 logs and I blew out the hydraulics to the top jaws on my grapple, and I had to use it "as is", just using it like forks. Almost lost my mind, I did.
Lastly, in my own sorry defense, I hope I never come across as advocating WASTING money. There's a huge difference between spending it and wasting it.
You've probably seen this thread, but just in case, here it is again: To grapple or not to grapple - to which my answer would of course be - "Grapple" /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
And one more old "chestnut" about hydraulics, solenoids and "human nature" - Remotes and Top and Tilt? - it's a doozy /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Honorable mention to the Farmi 501 skidding winch, the Beaver Squeezer, the Implemax SmartGrapple, the Anbo and Pirhana grapples, and Mahatma Gandhi.
Good luck, John D.
A 4-in-1 FEL is optimal, but expensive. There are all sorts of FEL attachments, but the most common (and you may have one) is a toothbar. It takes 2 folks, and requires easing the toothbar under the log, and then having your helper apply pressure on the log as you "roll" the FEL bucket to scoop up the log.
PILOON
Super Star Member
Farwell:
"Eventually I am going to make something to keep the base of the tree elevated so it can't dig into the dirt or get hung up on a rock or buried stump."
I obtained a protective end from highway guard rails from local scrap yard.
It is curved and kinda like the end of a ski, also shaped like with 2 grouves or humps.
I welded a couple of 1/2 rings to each side to attach the log butt with a looped chain.(a small binder might be better)
On the underside of the curved end I welded a ring to attach the row chain.
Now when I tow a log it does not 'dig in' or get snagged on rocks or roots, simply rides over. Like a ski tends to ride up and over the snow.
"Eventually I am going to make something to keep the base of the tree elevated so it can't dig into the dirt or get hung up on a rock or buried stump."
I obtained a protective end from highway guard rails from local scrap yard.
It is curved and kinda like the end of a ski, also shaped like with 2 grouves or humps.
I welded a couple of 1/2 rings to each side to attach the log butt with a looped chain.(a small binder might be better)
On the underside of the curved end I welded a ring to attach the row chain.
Now when I tow a log it does not 'dig in' or get snagged on rocks or roots, simply rides over. Like a ski tends to ride up and over the snow.
Farwell
Veteran Member
Sounds like a great idea. I have been racking my brains to come up with something that would do exactly what you did. I will keep my eyes open for some old guard rail at my local scrap yard.
Thanks.
Farwell
Thanks.
Farwell
