Moving cut tree branches & logs

[hslogger]

That is a good and heavy stick. Use your drawbar a good cable or chain. If you want to minimize ground damage hang a block in a tree to give lift, run your line through the block.

 

[ctgoldwing]

lot of good info in previous posts. I'll just throw in my $.02

At our old house I had to cutup / remove several large oaks that were in the woods and on a pretty steep incline. I always pulled from the drawbar. In addition I used a snatch block so I could redirect my pull to be up the fall line rather than across it. I used 10k lb rated synthetic rope and placed a chain across it back from the tractor, jic. If the rope would have ever snapped the chain would pull it down so it wouldn't come back into me. I do the same for steel cable.

 

[California]

The above covers the heavy end of the tree.

Where I have problems, is carrying the small-branches upper half of a downed orchard tree on front forks. I've more than once torn a loader hydraulic hose. Once ripped off the oil pressure sensor wire while driving over debris to crush it. Going back to the barn with the red light on was unnerving, but essentially harmless.

When you get down to moving the small stuff, watch for risk to your hoses or worst case, the radiator, if debris carried up front starts to tumble off. Rasseling a downed tree with branches pointing in all directions requires more caution than you might expect.

 

[Rvrrat14]

Good thread!
I moved a large dead oak (trimmed) yesterday, out of the forest to use as a drainage break/border. It was around 12” diameter and 22’ long; solid.
I attached a chain around trunk, then to my tow strap to draw bar. I had about 40 ft of chain/strap to clear the forest/thick brush.
I then used the grapple and was able to lift the entire log, whole, and swing it/lift it in place. All went well with zero issues. That grapple is worth every penny!

 

[SPYDERLK]

Drawbar posts are wrong to say that the front end is forced down. Any pullpoint above the tire/ground contact patch will lighten the front when pulling. The beauty of the drawbar pull is that the drawbar end/pullpoint is forced down as the tractor backtips. -- Extend the drawbar to its fullest and proceed slowly for predictable safety. If the front lifts load the bucket.

 

[JWR]

Drawbar posts are wrong to say that the front end is forced down. Any pullpoint above the tire/ground contact patch will lighten the front when pulling. The beauty of the drawbar pull is that the drawbar end/pullpoint is forced down as the tractor backtips. -- Extend the drawbar to its fullest and proceed slowly for predictable safety. If the front lifts load the bucket.

Nope. Dead wrong with due respect to Spyder. Any pulling point below the centerline of the rear axle will in fact add force downward at the front axle. Not a lot but the important thing is a pulling point point ABOVE the center of the rear axle has led to many cases of popping the front end up in the air or even the extreme in a few cases of tipping the tractor over backwards. The point of contact with the tires/ground is totally irrelevant. The ONLY forward force applied to the tractor (and anything attached to it) during pulling is exactly at the center line of the rear axle. The front axle on a 4WD of course helps in pulling but is not a concern here.

 

[California]

The ONLY forward force applied to the tractor (and anything attached to it) during pulling is exactly at the center line of the rear axle.

How do you explain a tractor flipping backward when the rear tires are frozen in mud?

Pulling a load that refuses to move creates similar forces, no? I don't think the small downward force created by that lower drawbar would overcome the extreme torque applied to the tires.

Anybody have a convincing vector diagram?

 

[oldnslo]

Drawbar posts are wrong to say that the front end is forced down. Any pullpoint above the tire/ground contact patch will lighten the front when pulling. The beauty of the drawbar pull is that the drawbar end/pullpoint is forced down as the tractor backtips. -- Extend the drawbar to its fullest and proceed slowly for predictable safety. If the front lifts load the bucket.

It depends on where the tractor draw bar attachment or pull point is. If in front of the rear axle it will help hold the front end down. If behind the rear axle it has less effect on holding the front end down. MX being a little closer to ag tractor I suspect the draw bar front attachment or pull point is in front of the rear axle.

 

[CalG]

The frozen in mud situation removes the draw bar LEVER. A force point that counters the lifting front end.

Much like a seesaw,

It is "possible" to flip a tractor while pulling from the draw bar, but it's much harder.

A very long draw bar, that contacts the ground at some angle of tilt, is a good idea.

Most operators would come out of the seat by that time, so with an open station gear tractor, the entire machine comes over on you, and crushes.

Think this way,

If pulling from a three point tool bar, conditions get worse and worse for the operator as the front end comes up.

When pulling from a draw bar, conditions get better and better for making a recovery.

 

[CalG]

Wouldn't it be a curious arraingement to throw a chain around the FRONT tractor axle, dive over the chain and use that to pull a load behind the rear wheels.

Careful if you try, there is stuff under most tractors that don't take well to being thrashed with a tight chain ;-)