Modifying a dump trailer for "tailgating" stone?

[John_Mc]

Bruce

Thanks for that video. Something helpful to show my local fabricator.

It's unfortunate that the channel, AutoQuest Trailers saved the video as "content made for kids". For whatever reason, that prevents me from using YouTube's option to save the video for later viewing. (Apparently, YouTube takes that option to mean the video is specifically targeting kids and adds all sort of restrictions to it.) I've got it bookmarked outside of YouTube so I can find it again.

 

[bdhsfz6]

I just took the tailgate off and clamped 2X10's across the back of the trailer. Makes it easy to adjust the opening and flow rate.

 

[John_Mc]

I just took the tailgate off and clamped 2X10's across the back of the trailer. Makes it easy to adjust the opening and flow rate.

I might try that as a temporary set up. I'll have to take a look at the rear of my trailer more closely to see what there is to clamp to.

Have you dumped much 1 1/2" stone with that set up? I know driveway gravel feeds out well. I'm wondering if the larger stuff will tend to lock itself up in the opening. I guess I'll have to play with the size of the opening a bit.

 

[bdhsfz6]

I might try that as a temporary set up. I'll have to take a look at the rear of my trailer more closely to see what there is to clamp to.

Have you dumped much 1 1/2" stone with that set up? I know driveway gravel feeds out well. I'm wondering if the larger stuff will tend to lock itself up in the opening. I guess I'll have to play with the size of the opening a bit.

Yes, I've dumped many loads of gravel with the 2X10's. Trial & error is the best way to figure out what works.

I use a couple of lengths of 4" angle clamped to the corner supports with heavy duty "C" clamps. The 2X10's are bolted to the angle. Adjustments are made by loosening and retightening the clamps to
set the size of the opening.

I also added a poly bed liner to my trailer which reduces material hang up.

 

[dfkrug]

I just took the tailgate off and clamped 2X10's across the back of the trailer. Makes it easy to adjust the opening and flow rate.

That is similar to what I did.

I built two partitions that go inside the bed of my trailer. They bolt to the sides from the outside. I used an angle-iron frame and some plywood. The reason for 2 partitions is that way, I can pick up gravel at the quarry and the load is centered where I want it, not spread all over the 12' bed.

The rear partition can be mounted with a small gap so gravel can be distributed like they do with chained top-hinge tailgates.

Of course, the vid that BCP posted is the best of all worlds.

 

[4570Man]

I might try that as a temporary set up. I'll have to take a look at the rear of my trailer more closely to see what there is to clamp to.

Have you dumped much 1 1/2" stone with that set up? I know driveway gravel feeds out well. I'm wondering if the larger stuff will tend to lock itself up in the opening. I guess I'll have to play with the size of the opening a bit.

I was thinking that you could weld nuts on the corners of the bed where the triangle pieces come together then bolt a 2x10 on. But that would be a lot of messing around without much adjustment. I’d probably go for the actual spread gate option if you don’t mind spending the money.

 

[4570Man]

Here’s how mine and my dad’s dump trailers are built which is pretty much the same as the video. Neither of ours are designed to come down from the top like a pickup tailgate which I wouldn’t waste anytime incorporating that feature.

 

[RayIN]

What about the weight transfer when the dump bed is raised? That might put a lot of stress on the hitch locking device; for some brands the locking clamp uses a 3/8" bolt.

 

[CalG]

Simplified version. Design and fitting required so hinges don't interfere with other direction operations.

Use your tailgate. Weld on top hinges. Maybe bottom hinges, too, while you are at it. Make all hinge pins easily removable.

When you want to spread, insert top hinge pins and remove side pins.

Bruce

Bruce

That's too obvious!
;-)

 

[John_Mc]

Thanks for all of the suggestions.

I finally bit the bullet and brought the trailer to the fabrication shop. As it happened, he had his own, larger dump trailer parked there. We decided to mostly copy the design on that tailgate. It's similar to the suggestions and photos some of you showed in this thread.

He made hinges and mounted them on rear edge of the top of each side.

Built a frame matching the profile of the rear of the trailer. The top of the frame is attached to the hinges. The bottom is held in place by self-locking toggle latches (not sure if I've got the name of those correct?). Replaced the original side hinges with some redesigned ones to improve clearance while in use. Those new hinges work much more smoothly than the original and are greaseable. Those side hinges and the original latch plate (in the bottom right corner) were moved from the rear of the trailer to the newly made frame. When used as the original door-type tailgate, the frame stays latched to the rear of the trailer.

When I want to tailgate out some gravel, the door is latched shut to the frame (using the original spring-loaded latch pin on the lower right, with the catch now mounted on the frame). The toggle latches are released and the check chains adjusted for the amount of opening needed. The gate opens by gravity as the trailer is dumped.

I've only used it a few times since the modification has been done. It works very well on driveway gravel. I have not tired it yet on the 1.5" stone I use as a base or to fix up some of the low/wet spots on some of my woods trails, but I'm sure it will work fine as soon as I figure out the proper check chain setting.

Learned the hard way that it does not work well on wood chips (at least not when they are green/damp): they slid together as a block and just jam up the opening, rather than dumping out in a smooth stream. Fortunately, wood chips are easy to rake smooth.