Mini Dozer - Project near complete

[jimgerken]

Workinprogress: Sorry I didn't read all the posts in this thread, so my suggestion may be way off. Why not use hydraulic cylinders for the blade action?

This thing is mint, nice job!!!

 

[6sunset6]

Looking good! How about changing the name on the hood from 'Wheel Horse' to 'Track Horse?'

I built a Struck machine in 1975, I think . Bought the track, sprockets and rear end. Fabicated all the rest myself. Called it H .5 as my last name starts with H. They are gutsy little machines.

 

[Pooper]

Here is the hydraulic pump/control and the linkage to the two control levers. The seat and rear fenders are off the tractor. The pump is driven by a belt and it uses the existing belt tensioner system on the tractor.

Hi I'm new here I been following your build, It's AWESOME, Great Job, where did you get the pulley for the 10mm pump shaft?

 

[workinprogress]

I purchased all the pump parts from John Deere. While they were not the cheapest but they all worked perfectly. Basically they use this pump on a z425 Below are the items with the John Deere part numbers.

So here is what it looks like.

1 - (14M72278) Left handed metric nut for the pump pulley.

2 - Pins (34M7127) for the level arms (to control the pumps)

3 - Lever arms (M154430) to control pump. While these could be built at $12 each this may it very easy.

4 - Below are two pulleys/sheave listed (TCA14218-$54.67 and (TCA13087-$28.02). I went with the cheaper one but it does not have a keyway cut. The hub is tapered and I started to file a keyway but during a test fitting of things I had trouble removing the pulley I figured I could live without the keyway for now. It hasn't loosened yet. I think the more expensive pulley has a keyway but am not sure.




Bernie

 

[Pooper]

I purchased all the pump parts from John Deere. While they were not the cheapest but they all worked perfectly. Basically they use this pump on a z425 Below are the items with the John Deere part numbers.

So here is what it looks like.

1 - (14M72278) Left handed metric nut for the pump pulley.

2 - Pins (34M7127) for the level arms (to control the pumps)

3 - Lever arms (M154430) to control pump. While these could be built at $12 each this may it very easy.

4 - Below are two pulleys/sheave listed (TCA14218-$54.67 and (TCA13087-$28.02). I went with the cheaper one but it does not have a keyway cut. The hub is tapered and I started to file a keyway but during a test fitting of things I had trouble removing the pulley I figured I could live without the keyway for now. It hasn't loosened yet. I think the more expensive pulley has a keyway but am not sure.




Bernie

I've been looking but cant find the right website where the parts are.

 

[mjncad]

Pooper:

www.jdparts.com

 

[Pooper]

Pooper:

www.jdparts.com

Thanks

 

[wade hoagland]

I have a question if you had to go back and try again. do you think that rubber tracks would have been a better choice. I am new to this site but am gathering parts to build a mini dozer and looking for some input from others
thanks
wade

 

[JoelD]

If you've got pump and oil, why not plum in a cyl. for up and down?

Would be far more durable than actuator.

Joel

 

[PapaPerk]

Nice machine!

I agree with the others.... slap a hydro cylinder on there and be done with it. Hydraullics are still superior to any actuator for this purpose in my opinon. Plus you have excellent control of the blade... and LOTS of down pressure.

 

[David Devuono]

Nice machine!

I agree with the others.... slap a hydro cylinder on there and be done with it. Hydraullics are still superior to any actuator for this purpose in my opinon. Plus you have excellent control of the blade... and LOTS of down pressure.

I don't think it is that easy. Remember he is using a variable pumps with integrated control valves. To add a cylinder, he would likely have to add another pump, spool valves, relief valves, at least six hoses and then the cylinder.

 

[workinprogress]

If I had the chance to do it again I might think more about a rubber track. I really don't have experience with rubber tracks so I just don't know. Time will tell how the steel track holds up but right now things are working pretty good.

So far I have made a few additional improvements. First I modified the track slider. The flat plate worked OK but I seemed to throw the track every so often when the track got lose. Basically I welded sides onto the plate to create a C channel that I covered with the same slide plastic material. The C is only 3/8 inch or so wider than the chain so this help keep things lined up.

The second modification was to weld additional plates onto the track for traction. Right now I added a 3/4" x 1/4" plate to every other track plate to give me better snow traction. This addition really helped in the snow.

Will try to add some photos tomorrow.

All in all the machine has come out pretty well.

 

[Don87]

I don't think it is that easy. Remember he is using a variable pumps with integrated control valves. To add a cylinder, he would likely have to add another pump, spool valves, relief valves, at least six hoses and then the cylinder.

I once added hydraulics to an old Allis Chalmers garden tractor. I used the power steering pump off a mid 60's model GM car. The relief valve is already built in, just stretch the spring for more power. It operated one cylinder to raise/lower the attachments.

Worked like a charm.

 

[workinprogress]

Hello All,

Here are a few updated photos. This first is showing the new and improved slider that the track rides in. The new design has sides to help keep everything lined up.

The second photo is showing the additional plate welded to every other track section. When the weather get warming I will mostlikely add the plates to the other sections.

I still have a few improvements to complete. The highest on my list is a direct drive. Where the hydraulic motors will directly turn the track. This will remove the additional chain drive. Hopefully this spring/summer.

Lastly as already pointed out to add hydraulics will require a pump, reservoir, lines, valve and any cylinders I will use.

 

[griffo]

The hydraulic motors are mounted on a slide so I can tighten the chain up. The Chain is tight when under light use but when I push things the chain loosens up. I think the entire back bracket is flexing and the pillow blocks mounting the track sprockets move slightly. My current thought is to put another pillow block onto the 1 inch shaft so that there is support on the other side of the drive sprocket.

I also added a photo of the sub frame without the track.

HI Very nice job love it. I am starting on a build of a struk md40 with a few changes I will be puting an undercarrage on it but I am looking for a way of addjusting the track the way you have done it looks good from what I can see but the photos you have shown don't show much of how you did it ccn you post a few more on the frount end of the undercarrage please and thank you jeff [griffo]

 

[2manyrocks]

Just going to toss this out--if this project had started with a hydrostatic tractor like a Cub Cadet 1650 it might have been easier to incorporate a hydraulic lift, but then I don't know how the differential action of the tracks would work.

This has been an interesting thread. Thanks to the OP for sharing it.

 

[ignatious47]

Have you changed your motors to direct drive yet and did that work out or not? I'm sure it was speeded up considerably. I know the motors have a lot of torque. I'm thinking of doing the same as you with my Simplicity mower.

 

[ignatious47]

Does anyone know if this pump can be mounted horizontally? This is the pump at Northern Tool...

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7686&catname=hydraulic

I am asking because horizontal engines are normally cheaper and more plentiful than vertical engines. I also noticed that the pulley listed for the pump is a single pulley. If a double could be found, that would make it a whole lot more reliable and would have less slippage, than a single, under high load.

I'm pretty impressed with this build. I'm buying parts as money allows and plan on building one a little bigger and heavier. :thumbsup:

 

[workinprogress]

I am not positive but based on the pump design/inlets i think it needs to be in the vertical position. With a large number of rider tractors using vertical shafts I bet you could find a cheap riding mower. The mower I started with was actually free.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I know every region is different, but around here the vertical shaft engines are much cheaper than horizontal shafts.