Middlebuster Vs. Subsoiler

npaden · Apr 28, 2006

Okay, I've been waiting for my local tractor supply type place (Gebo's) to get in a subsoiler. They still haven't but they got in a middlebuster. I went ahead and bought it and switched out the shank to a subsoiler type chisel point. I asked them what the difference was between the subsoiler and the middlebuster because the middlebuster was $106 vs. the subsoiler was $129 and they didn't know.

Looking at the king kutter site it looks like the difference is that the subsoiler is a little longer than the middlebuster. (other than the point which can be switched out of course) Also it looks like the angle on the middlebuster point might be a little more than the angle on the subsoiler.

Per the specs on their site the subsoiler also weighs 114lbs vs the middlebuster at 80lbs.

I'm trying to decide if I should return the middlebuster and wait for a subsoiler or just keep the middlebuster.

Right now I plan on using it for burying some drip irrigation lines. Our frost line is 12" here so the subsoiler would actually be able to get the lines down below the frost line and I'm not sure if the middlebuster would or not.

I'm leaning toward just returning the middlebuster and waiting on a subsoiler or driving 50 miles to another Gebo's and getting it there (it shows to be in stock there but I would call before I went to make sure).

Thanks for any input.

Nathan

flusher · Apr 28, 2006

Last August I bought the KK XB middle buster/sub-soiler combo from TSC for $135. Northern Tool has them on sale for $130.

KK XB

I've used both attachments to dig trenches for irrigation pipe with my 21hp Kubota B7510HST. No problem digging trenches 6" deep in one pass since the ground is soft due to all the rain up here in the North Valley. Use multiple passes to dig deeper.

npaden · Apr 28, 2006

The points are interchangeable on these as well. I'm just trying to decide if I need the longer subsoiler bar vs. the middlebuster bar. There are about 30 different styles of points that will fit on either of the bars.

sweettractors · Apr 28, 2006

Any good subsoiler should have a shearpin in the main beam. I dont see one in the one pictured?--Ken Sweet

caylor · Apr 28, 2006

Could you explain a little further? Where would the shearpin would be located exactly? I am on your website now trying to figure this out looking at your equipment.

beowulf · Apr 28, 2006

I just looked at a Gearmore website - they call them single shank rippers and they show three of them, all stating they have shear bolt protection. From 85# to 240 #.

npaden · Apr 28, 2006

I stopped back in today to buy some Trans Hydraulic Fluid and they are going to do an interstore transfer and get the subsoiler from the other town brought in for me and I'm going to switch out my middlebuster for it.

I think for an extra $20 it will be good to have the option of digging down deeper if I need to. I can always raise it up if I don't want it to dig that deep.

Looking at the pictures on the gearmore site, you could probably rig up a sheerbolt where you attach the subsoiler to the toplink. I would think it would be about as effective as the shearbolts they have built into the shaft.

century3045 · Apr 28, 2006

Not to be a know-it-all but that KIng Cutter subsoiler pictured there is not a good one at all. I have an old one, must have came from the Ford Tractor dealership because it looks like Ford Blue paint on it. The one I have is long, not sure how long but behind my Century 3045 with the lift all the way up it is barely off the ground. If you lower it and back up, it will trip backwards thus putting it high enough to drive around without it hanging in the ground, or highway. Then as you drop it down and go forward it unfolds and starts digging in. Also the one I have is knife blade shaped, a fairly thin but wide blade. It will actually cut roots into. The way the tip is made and angled out it will run deep and break the ground open, looks just like a giant mole has tunneled through the garden. It also breaks/cuts roots into and will stop the tractor unless it is in 4wd.If it hangs you can back up and trip it loose. It is very heavy made, unlike the one in the photo. Anyone interested I can take a pic.

sweettractors · Apr 28, 2006

Each company has a little different way of using the shearpin. Most are in the toplink bracket or in the main beam of the subsoiler--Ken Sweet

Casey1 · Apr 28, 2006

I'm interested. I would like to see a picture.

Badger_Bandman · Apr 29, 2006

The points are interchangeable on these as well.

I don't think you can just change the blade tips. I have the same king kutter middle buster and did order a sub-soil blade tip but it does not fit correctly. You can only use one bolt and the blade is to long. You can even see this on your pictures that it will not fit. I'm still going to use it with the one bolt and hope I don't shear it off and loose the tip.
Frank

Farwell · Apr 29, 2006

I did the same thing but use the blade with the one bolt. So far no problems.
Farwell

npaden · Apr 29, 2006

Here's the picture of the middlebuster and the extra chisel point that I got for it. It did fit but I'm going to switch it out for a subsoiler this week.

century3045 · Apr 30, 2006

I didn't measure it but I leaned it up against the rear wheel of my Century to kind of give you an idea of the size. It is a hard chunk of metal to lug around, not sure of the weight either. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

century3045 · Apr 30, 2006

This pic might be a little better.

Farwell · Apr 30, 2006

npaden
I haven't tried the chisel point. I will pick one up next time I am at tractor supply and give it a try.
Farwell

npaden · Apr 30, 2006

That chisel point was $9 if I remember right. It looks like it would do some serious digging.

skipmarcy · May 1, 2006

Just my recent experience - I bought 1 each of the middlebuster and the subsoiler from TSC, the King Kutters. I used the subsoiler on my Mahindra to break-up chert rock mixed with clay so I could get it out with my loader & boxblade. It is pretty dang tough - I ran it buried as far as it would go and when I hit a big rock it would stop the tractor momentarily - I stayed in a very low gear and constantly worked the depth with my hitch - it worked fantastic for me. Having the hydraulic toplink made a big difference - angle is very critical when using this tool, I found. I haven't used the middle buster yet, that was for the garden that won't happen this year - still building my house. The subsoiler shank is longer than the middle buster and the angle of the foot is also different - the blades will not interchange easily. I couldn't believe that I didn't bend the blade on the subsoiler - it's still straight as new after probably 3 or 4 hours of some rough digging in the rocks. I don't really see a need for shear bolt protection if you go slow & pay attention.