MF35?

[topbuilder]

Cool. It appears you have a new R1 (?) on the right and a worn R4 on the left. If you find the engine and trans are a go, something to add to the wish list.

 

[Arc weld]

Judging by the sheet metal and the fact it has a 34 loader and 54 backhoe, I'd say with about 98% certainty it is a 1973 MF 30 industrial. It will have either a Perkins 4-212 gas engine or a 4-203 diesel. It's an industrial version of a 165. The previous model to it was an MF 3165. It will either have a manual shuttle transmission with a F/R lever to the left of the steering wheel or have instant reverse with torque converter and 2 foot pedals on the right side. Likely has a hand operated differential lock.

 

[BKBoiss]

Judging by the sheet metal and the fact it has a 34 loader and 54 backhoe, I'd say with about 98% certainty it is a 1973 MF 30 industrial. It will have either a Perkins 4-212 gas engine or a 4-203 diesel. It's an industrial version of a 165. The previous model to it was an MF 3165. It will either have a manual shuttle transmission with a F/R lever to the left of the steering wheel or have instant reverse with torque converter and 2 foot pedals on the right side. Likely has a hand operated differential lock.

This is what I was meaning to say. Had the 3165 and the 165. I must have been drunk or sleeping when I wrote that.

 

[jdeilus]

I took a look at the tractor today and it is a mess. I noticed a major repair that I'm not sure can be done. There is this motor, maybe a swing motor that has a piece broken off at the bolt. Picture attached. I was also told that the engine will stall out if the hydraulics are constantly being used. One of the pictures shows the lever that you have to moving to keep it running. It's to the right of the steering wheel. For getting this for free, I really don't want to put more than 3500 into it. Maybe if I can find a used backhoe that can replace the MF 54. This swing motor is cast so I'm not sure if it can be welded. The other piece is still attached to the bolt. What is this lever control in the picture? He also he has all the manuals.

 

[Arc weld]

Someone experienced with cast iron repair can fix the mount. The levers in the last pic are for a 3 pt. hitch so the backhoe must be quick attach. The draft control lever is bent. That said, I don't know if it's worth spending any money fixing the tractor. The hydraulics shouldn't stall the tractor. The lever to the right of the steering wheel is the hand throttle. Is there 2 small pedals on the right foot board in addition to the brake pedals? That would be instant reverse transmission. If not there's likely a foot throttle and the F/R manual shuttle lever to the left of the steering wheel. The MF30 was a very good tractor but that one has been thoroughly abused and neglected. If he has all the manuals they should say it's an MF30? It's sad to see equipment go to scrap but I'd want to check this particular tractor over very thoroughly before putting any money into it.

 

[jdeilus]

There is no three point hitch. I was told that one can be added there is a cap over something in the back. If I had a 3 Point hitch, Couldn't I find a used backhoe that attaches to a 3 point hitch. I haven't decided yet to take this on. This week end the owner will attempt to start and move it. I am not an experienced tractor mechanic. I did serve in the Army to 20 years working on equipment with diesel engines and hydraulics. Do I do catch on quick, especially if I have a manual.

 

[Arc weld]

The tractor has all the controls for the 3 pt. so has the internal pump to run it in. PTO is optional and it may it have under the cap. Likely the 3 pt. arms are removed.

 

[PatrickS2222]

You may find it merely needs "bringing out of hibernation" with little cost, or it's been left there for years where it has added rust to neglect.
Great machines in their day, but all machines need maintenance - nothing is immune to neglect. I bought a similar MF cheap - it took some cost and a fair amount of work to make it reliable, but hasn't broke down in three years! :thumbsup:
If you have a passion for this type of machine, make it your hobby for a few weeks/months. You'll get a lot of satisfaction out of it.
Then you'll have something to use productively too. :drink:

 

[topbuilder]

"If I had a 3 Point hitch, Couldn't I find a used backhoe that attaches to a 3 point hitch"

No. IMO Any 3 pt backhoe would look like a toy compared to the frame mounted 'hoe that is on it now. It would also be lighter, providing less ballast.

 

[PatrickS2222]

"If I had a 3 Point hitch, Couldn't I find a used backhoe that attaches to a 3 point hitch"

No. IMO Any 3 pt backhoe would look like a toy compared to the frame mounted 'hoe that is on it now. It would also be lighter, providing less ballast.

Topbuilder - Absolutely agree with you there! It would dig like a toy too - but they're not intended to be an alternative to a real 'hoe.
Additionally, the forces a 3PT-mounted 'hoe puts through the links and onto the tractor are horrendous - they can also be multiplied several times by the time they reach the mounting points on the tractor. I hate to think what these forces do to the links and castings of the tractor. They were never intended to cope with this type of use.

Jdeilus - Arc Weld is probably correct - The mounts for the 3PT may be there (and hydraulics it appears are), and it just needs the arms and links fitted to them. But you will need to remove the BH and mounting frame first - how much work is involved there?
I was really lucky - my loader has 3PT and PTO, although I suspect the wrong set were fitted - they don't lower at all close enough to the ground. I reckon you need the same 3PT link set as a MF65 or 165, (as I do too) not a 35 or 135 - they are too short. Let me know if you need further info.:thumbsup:

Important Note (and this IS important): -
The 3PT hitch top link mount on any MF machine - can be used only with agriculture-oriented implements. It also can never be used as a towing hitch eg to attach a chain to pull a log or another vehicle or machine. This is really important to understand. They are designed to be very strong for push/pull loads eg ploughing, discing, slashing etc, but they are hollow in order to allow a linkage to connect to the draft control valve. Therefore they don't have much strength for side-forces or vertical forces. When using a lifting crane attachment etc, use the triple-mounts below it, on the rear casing, with the long flex-pin - but don't tow from there either. Use an under-slung towing hitch, or put a drawbar in the lower links, let them down low for some safety, and be careful.

These machines were built tough and durable enough to last for decades, but remember, they're now decades old too! They're still very capable, but be aware everything is well-worn nowadays. Ours are still capable enough to easily earn their keep. :laughing: :drink: