MF35 gas - valve adjustment

[twosocks90]

I took the fuel tank off my MF35 to (try to) repair a leak. Ouch, it gets expensive when gas is leaking out of there!

I see the valve covers are now accessible. Does the gas engine require periodic valve adjustment? If so, I might as well do it while the tank is out.

I checked the service manual that I have but somehow it only covers diesel engines. Go figure.

 

[jaxs]

I don't feel like looking it up for you but take my word that the specs are out there if you search. IT manuals at Tractor Supply Company is one source of specs and a bunch of other handy stuff to know.

 

[twosocks90]

Your reply reminded me that I do in fact have an IT manual on the shelf! I totally forgot it was there.

It's .015 cold and .013 hot. I know what I'll be doing tonight...

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Your reply reminded me that I do in fact have an IT manual on the shelf! I totally forgot it was there.

It's .015 cold and .013 hot. I know what I'll be doing tonight...

Is that for intake and exhaust? Check and be sure that is for both intake AND exhaust. The ones you give sound good for exhaust. Usually intakes are a little tighter than exhaust. But, it may not be solid lifters, so there are just positive lock studs.

 

[twosocks90]

Yes, it's the same for both intake and exhaust.

How can I turn the engine? I would normally go for the crankshaft pulley but there's a shaft and hydraulic pump on the front of the tractor. There's no pulley bolt to put a socket on.

 

[twosocks90]

Looks like I have to spin the engine on the starter to get it positioned correctly. I checked #1 cylinder so far and clearance (cold) is .010 on both intake and exhaust, so they need adjustment.

This thread has a good description of the adjustment procedure.

Valve Adjustment

Continental Z134 engine. Do you adjust the both valves to .015 cold at TDC (valves both closed, rocker arms even)? Just want to be sure.

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Yes, it's the same for both intake and exhaust.

How can I turn the engine? I would normally go for the crankshaft pulley but there's a shaft and hydraulic pump on the front of the tractor. There's no pulley bolt to put a socket on.

Some have plate you take off to see teeth on flywheel.

 

[shaeff]

You can stick a screwdriver in to catch the flywheel on the dizzy side. These machines (gassers) are low compression, you can also just spin the fan by hand, even easier with the plugs removed. As long as the belt is tight, anyway.

 

[can do]

I took the fuel tank off my MF35 to (try to) repair a leak. Ouch, it gets expensive when gas is leaking out of there!

I see the valve covers are now accessible. Does the gas engine require periodic valve adjustment? If so, I might as well do it while the tank is out.

I checked the service manual that I have but somehow it only covers diesel engines. Go figure.

It does not hurt to do it while your in there ! & I would go ahead and do a valve job while your in there , & replace the valve stem seals , Also be careful with the rocker arm assembly when torquing it down very easy to break ! I have only done one valve adjustment to mine in 21 years , & I've owed the tractor for 26 , Model M-F 50 Z134 Continental engine ( 1959 )

 

[WilliamTO-35]

As the valves recede into the head due to wear , the valve lash will tighten up to the point where the valves may not be able to seat . When I removed the cylinder head from my TO-35 ( gas) , I saw that the valves were very worn . I found a set of NOS valves online, and I hand seated the new valves into the head with lapping abrasive. I didn't want to have to reset the valve lash after the engine was run for a while, so I guessed that setting the lash at .002 inches wider than spec. would work. It did. And, since my factory gas tank was badly rusted near the battery, I "installed" a 6 gallon outboard motor fuel tank , which sits on top of the hood. I think I can now check the valve lash without removing anything except for the aluminum panel I installed down the center of the hood.