Metal cutting band saw usage?

[sdef]

Good day. I have been reading another post on TBN about purchasing a metal cutting band saw and am getting interested in purchasing one for my new shop. I may or may not need a band saw but am certainly not adverse to purchasing a tool that can make my life easier; I fully understand the concept of "ignorance is bliss". I do typical metal work around the property- making mounts, brackets, carriers, welding repair, etc with a Miller MIG out of 1/8" - 3/8" angle and flat stock (up to ~1.75" so far), and welding 5/8" bow shackles. I am not an expert at metal work, but so far have been able to accomplish what I need to do without any real troubles with the end results strong and serviceable.

Typically I cut the metal using a 14" abrasive chop saw and am happy with it. If unable to use the chop saw I use a 60 amp plasma for cutting. I am not concerned about the cutting kerf width and clean up any cut edges with a light touch from an angle grinder, bench grinder or bench wire wheels. And none of my work will be displayed in a museum. I also have an Evolution 7.25" multi purpose chop saw but do not like it for metal cutting as the blades do not last very long and the cut metal shards make a mess- think metal sawdust if using a wood cutting chop saw.

Out of ignorance, I think that angle cutting would be a band saw's greatest benefit for me as that would be my greatest perceived need.

Questions:
- What additional ability would a metal cutting band saw provide me besides the narrow kerf and potential smoother cut?
- What size (4.5x6, 5x6, 5x8, 7x12, etc.) would be the most helpful?
- Any gotchas in band saw blades availability vs. sizes to be aware of?
- If purchasing used, anything in particular to look out for?

Thanks.

 

[davedj1]

I'll answer your questions from my experience with my metal cutting bandsaw.
1) fairly quiet and now where near as dirty and nasty as an abrasive blade (that alone is enough reason to own one)
2) I have a 4.5 x 6 HF cheapie, I use Olson blades I get at TSC , not bad price wise and they seem to last a fair amount of time. The ones I get are for thinner metals (less than 1/4")
3) I've only used the Oslons so I can't help ya there
4) watch for worn bearings, the blade (at least on mine) rides on bearings.
The thing I like most I think is the fact that you can do something else while it's cutting, I wouldn't leave the shop but you can be grinding one piece in preparation while the other piece is being cut. One thing to keep in mind is if you need to cut long stock you are going to need some sort of supports at either end.
You won't regret owning one. I am going to buy a bigger one in the future, with coolant and hydraulic feed.
Another thing that just came to mind is make sure the area you are going to cut is rust free, rust will kill the blades.

 

[franklin2]

The bigger the saw you can afford, the better. I don't like noisy stinky chop saws myself.

I have used the larger saws for years where I work. The only problem I have ever had with them is applying too much cutting pressure on the blade, and stripping the teeth off a bi-metal blade. One tooth broke off in your material will ruin the blade quickly unless you catch it in time.

All I have at home is one of those small 4x6 saws that I bought off one of those tool trucks. It's basically the same thing that harbor freight sells(their smaller one). I have cut ALOT of metal with this saw. And it can be converted to vertical which I use also.

Let me tell you the mindset you need before buying from harbor freight; You go around and look at all your choices, if you have the money you can get a nice used saw. If you don't have the money you start looking on the internet and start finding people fabricating their own saws. Then you start figuring the time and materials to make your own saw. Then you look at the harbor freight stuff and think to yourself, "instead of making my own saw, why not start with that". That's the way you have to look at it if yo buy from them you are getting a head start, but you still have to mess with it and do some changes to make it a good saw. If you go in there with this attitude on stuff you buy there, you won't be disappointed.

On my cheap saw I had to shim the gearbox so the blade would not keep coming off, I made thicker table for when you use the saw vertically, and I modified the guard so I could cut a little bit larger piece of metal. I also made a frame for the bottom and put wheels on it so I could tilt it up and move it around and support the saw better than those thin sheetmetal legs. After all you are sort of in the fab business, so any of these minor mods are a piece of cake. This has been a good saw for me, and the blades are available at of course harbor freight, northern tool, and tractor supply.

 

[Big Barn]

I've had my 7x12 import saw for 18 years now. I ditched the coolant system and get excellent results using a lube stick. Quality blades are important. I like Starrett.




I also added a reduction gearbox and bi-metal blade to a 14" vertical bandsaw for cutting steel.



And this little guy I keep at wood cutting speed for aluminum.



Terry

 

[notme]

as others have stated.... no dirty cutoff sparks all over the dam place. and a more accurate cuts as those abrasive blades are known to flex a little... just buy one you will be happy... different blade pitches can be used for different sizes of steel but it sounds like your into pretty light stuff anyhow! these things make the cut and turn the saw off when there done...you can be doing something else in the other end of the shop well its cutting! I use band aid lubricant by lennox... seem s to do the trick. blades last a long time as a hobbyist (years)

 

[crazyal]

Have you thought about a portable band saw? That's usually my go to saw for cutting metal. I have always wanted to get a horizontal cutting band saw but never got around to it. Each time I get close I wonder if it would just be in the corner requiring me to dig it out. For a large project I don't think it would be an issue but for small stuff I can do a great job with my Milwaukee and a vice. Plus with a portable saw you can make finesse cuts that would be difficult on a regular band saw. That doesn't mean I wouldn't like a nice horizontal floor saw as a complement. I'm pretty accurate at cutting straight lines but not perfect.

 

[sdef]

davedj1- Yep, the noise and air pollution is a good point and this first comment nudged me quite a bit closer to the purchase.

franklin2- Agree 100%. Actually I try and purchase very little from HFT these days as the quality on motorized tools has gone downhill over the years. Same thing with Sears. In general I like the HFT metal, such as G70 chain and trailer hitch components. My go-to for less expensive power tools these days generally come from Northern Tool but I can be persuaded to purchase HFT if the bang for the buck is there with sales plus 20% coupons. My last HFT power tool purchase (~5 years ago) was a 12" compound, sliding miter saw I could not adjust to get a square cut.

Big Barn- Nice looking shop and thanks for the blade recommendation. I always invest in higher quality cutting surfaces for anything I use and was not aware Starrett made band saw blades.

notme- You guys have convinced I need to upgrade my primary cutting device.

crazyal- Yes I have considered a portable unit and actually almost purchased one before I got the plasma cutter. I think in general the plasma is the best portable cutter for my usage.

- Concerning the stick lube mentioned twice, is this really a good replacement for an oil bath?

- Any opinions on the lesser band saws sold by Northern Tool such as:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200659143_200659143
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200323677_200323677

 

[Stimw]

I bought a 7 X 12 from ENCO about 15 years ago and I love it.
I have never used the coolant system and don't figure I have ever needed it.
I have used saws with it and feel the mess isn't worth the difference.
I have rigged the horizontal table so I can insert or remove easily (no bolts or screws) and being easy to put on I use it about 50% of the time!
I will cut PVC or rubber or small wood with it too.
I had a 4 X 6 for about 30 years and didn't use it since I bought the 7 X 12.
Last fall I gave the 4 X 6 to a friend.
He did sell me a Polaris 330 four wheeler for $300. needing repair so I told him the saw was a "rebate".
You will find a use for it.

 

[sdef]

I bought a 7 X 12 from ENCO about 15 years ago and I love it.
I have never used the coolant system and don't figure I have ever needed it.
I have used saws with it and feel the mess isn't worth the difference.
I have rigged the horizontal table so I can insert or remove easily (no bolts or screws) and being easy to put on I use it about 50% of the time!
I will cut PVC or rubber or small wood with it too.
I had a 4 X 6 for about 30 years and didn't use it since I bought the 7 X 12.
Last fall I gave the 4 X 6 to a friend.
He did sell me a Polaris 330 four wheeler for $300. needing repair so I told him the saw was a "rebate".
You will find a use for it.

I am a bit leery of oil coolant since I will be welding after cutting and an oil bath may just complicate cleaning. If a dry lube/stick lube works well, I am good.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I have an older horizontal bandsaw. That brand from Three Rivers Michigan. It's not the smallest, but I have had a lot of trouble not having the clearances to get the angles I wanted. Something is always in the way. I built a cart with castors so it gets out of way when not needed. Much better than a abrasive saw although I sometimes find it quicker to get out the chop saw.

A friend just got a Vertical band saw, where the carriage moves under spring tension. It also has a foot lever. Never seen anything like it.

 

[Big Barn]

I have an older horizontal bandsaw. That brand from Three Rivers Michigan. It's not the smallest, but I have had a lot of trouble not having the clearances to get the angles I wanted. Something is always in the way. I built a cart with castors so it gets out of way when not needed. Much better than a abrasive saw although I sometimes find it quicker to get out the chop saw.

A friend just got a Vertical band saw, where the carriage moves under spring tension. It also has a foot lever. Never seen anything like it.

Putting the carriage under tension is something I have to do to mine. It gets tiring and hard on your hands pushing the material into the blade (for cutting steel).

Terry

 

[Industrial Toys]

He has limited space, and a large horizontal saw, so I don't really know why he needs it. I just picked up his blades for it today, so I will see what he does with it.

 

[Big Barn]

He has limited space, and a large horizontal saw, so I don't really know why he needs it. I just picked up his blades for it today, so I will see what he does with it.

Photos of the counterweight mechanism would be appreciated if you could.

 

[franklin2]

Have you thought about a portable band saw? That's usually my go to saw for cutting metal. I have always wanted to get a horizontal cutting band saw but never got around to it. Each time I get close I wonder if it would just be in the corner requiring me to dig it out. For a large project I don't think it would be an issue but for small stuff I can do a great job with my Milwaukee and a vice. Plus with a portable saw you can make finesse cuts that would be difficult on a regular band saw. That doesn't mean I wouldn't like a nice horizontal floor saw as a complement. I'm pretty accurate at cutting straight lines but not perfect.

You really have to hold your mouth right to get a straight cut with a porta-band. Like you said it can be done, but you really have to watch what you are doing. That's what is great about a horizontal, you get nice straight cuts without thinking about it.

 

[muddstopper]

I have a Carolina 8x12. I got it used in a trade. First thing I had to do was replace the bushings in the drive wheels. It does alright and I have cut a lot of 1in thick flat plate with it going across the flat side. I took a lot of fiddleing with to get it to cut square. The vise isnt the best. I try not to cut angles because its hard to get back square. The belt tensioning on it aint worth a crap either. It uses step pulleys for cut speed and you cant keep them tight so they slip. Another thing I dont like is the bed is stamped steel. If I put anything really heavy on it, I have cut 8x8 hbeam and even pieces of railroad track, the bed flexes creating a out of square cut. I get by with it, becasue I have a chop saw, plasma cutter and torch. But if I was buying again, I would skip the Carolina brand

 

[sdef]

muddstopper- Thanks for the warning. Really. These are the kinds of things I am trying to stay away from.

 

[DaveK OR]

While I'd love to have a decent cold-cut saw, I find that the portable bandsaw (mine's a DeWalt) is more than enough for most cuts. My biggest problem is keeping the kerfs straight, but the usual solution is to allow a little "extra, then use an angle grinder to bring it back to the desired "cut line". I built a deck that uses 5 x 8" I-Beams as perimeter supports (it is a VERY heavy deck), and was able to do all the cuts I needed (including miters) with that saw, though it took some thought and imagination.

 

[muddstopper]

I have thought about buying a coldcut saw a few times, but have always talked myself out of the purchase. Cold cut saws are good at what they do, but a hobby shop isnt going to pay the price one would cost that could cut thru 8x8 hbeam like my bandsaw can. For everyday cutting, my abrasive chop saw is worth the price, altho dusty. The chop saw has some of the same drawbacks of the coldcut saw and same for the portaband, limited cutting range. I built a track saw I can use either my gas torch or plasma in to make long straight cuts, and a straight edge for making cuts buy hand. So while a cold saw would be nice to have, I have the basic cutting needs met with what I have.

 

[franklin2]

I have a Carolina 8x12. I got it used in a trade. First thing I had to do was replace the bushings in the drive wheels. It does alright and I have cut a lot of 1in thick flat plate with it going across the flat side. I took a lot of fiddleing with to get it to cut square. The vise isnt the best. I try not to cut angles because its hard to get back square. The belt tensioning on it aint worth a crap either. It uses step pulleys for cut speed and you cant keep them tight so they slip. Another thing I dont like is the bed is stamped steel. If I put anything really heavy on it, I have cut 8x8 hbeam and even pieces of railroad track, the bed flexes creating a out of square cut. I get by with it, becasue I have a chop saw, plasma cutter and torch. But if I was buying again, I would skip the Carolina brand

Sounds like a decent sized saw that needs a little revamping if you don't have the money to buy a better one. The bed probably can be re-enforced, and once you get the saw cutting sqaure, you can drill a hole in the swivel and put a pin in it. Move it for angle cut, pull the pin, use it, and then swing it around and put the pin back in for square cuts.

As long as the frame with the blade wheels is strong enough to hold the blade in good alignment when the going gets tough cutting something big, everything else can be improved or modified.

 

[muddstopper]

I have thought many times about beefing up the Carolina saw. Just never got around to it. For angle iron, small pipe or tube. It does alright. It only when I try cutting anything really tall or really wide that the accuratcy shows up. One day I'll get around to making things a little stiffer, but I aint in any hurry.