Material for garage ceiling

[lhfarm]

Purchased a furnance for my unfinished garage. Before I install it, I want to close the ceiling. The contractor doing some remodeling work on the house right now says he will enclose the ceiling with either 1/2" OSB or white metal panels. The panels will be $700 more, but he likes them because there is no painting and do a good job reflecting light.

Anyone use white ribbed panels? Good or bad experiences?

Thanks,

 

[Duffster]

We use white steel for ceilings all the time and prefer it over OSB.

 

[EddieWalker]

I thought about using metal panels for my ceiling. My trusses are 4ft apart, so it would be the easist thing to use that would have the strength to span that distance and hold insulation. 7/16 OSB would need some purlins or furing strips to hold the OSB, which would be more work. I also thought about sheets of foam and even having a guy spray it. In the end, I've decided to use 10 in fiberglass insulation that's 23 inches wide. Two of them, side by side will fit between my rafters, and then I will use 1x3 every two feet to hold the insulation bats in place. That's my current plan, and what I was going to do this weekend, but something just came up, so it's put off another week or two.

Good luck,
Eddie

 

[Kays Supply]

I have white barn metal on the ceiling in my shop and foil board in the lower bays. The shop ceiling has been in for over 20 years. I would do it again. The lower bays have 15' ceilings so the foil works good there. I wash cars in the shop and handle steel that hits the ceiling some times. A few small scratches but I am totally pleased with it.

 

[lhfarm]

I have white barn metal on the ceiling in my shop and foil board in the lower bays. The shop ceiling has been in for over 20 years. I would do it again. The lower bays have 15' ceilings so the foil works good there. I wash cars in the shop and handle steel that hits the ceiling some times. A few small scratches but I am totally pleased with it.

Thanks for your note. I need to make my decision today and was still debating the extra expense. I was concern about how it would hold up long term. Based on your experience and other comments here I think I'll commit to the extra bucks.

 

[woodchuckc]

I've had white metal ceilings in my woodworking shop building for 10 years now. Works really well and very easy to put up (provided you have at least a couple of people to help hold it in place while screwing it in place). I had insulation blown in on top of it and I have been very pleased - the insulation works great for heating/cooling, and dampens sound reflection off of the metal as well.

 

[/pine]

I may not have the right picture in mind...but if it was mine and only a garage/shop I'd use OSB or plywood and install it on top of the ceiling joists or bottom cords (if they're trusses) so it could be used easier for storage...possibly with a set of pull down stairs...

 

[Willl]

I like the ceiling job Carpenter383 did in this thread.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/152918-putting-up-metal-garage-ceiling.html

 

[carpenter383]

I like the ceiling job Carpenter383 did in this thread.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/152918-putting-up-metal-garage-ceiling.html

Thanks for the compliment Willl
Pole barn metal works out really nice for a shop ceiling. Mine was around 60 bucks per square for #2 metal if I remember correctly. (a square is 10x10 or 100 sq. ft.)

 

[QRTRHRS]

Ribbed steel siding on the inside of a pole barn is very much a good choice. Especially if your going to be welding in there. The builder I used to deliver for did a lot of commercial applications replete with all the standard available trim stock for a totally finished job.

I have also seen walls done with osb laid on the side to back up the first four feet of a wall where damage is likely to occour. Tin on the walls will require some sort of interior purlins.

 

[robb01]

We just used 7/16th osb, I'm not quite sure I like it that much, but it works

 

[lhfarm]

To finish off this tread, wanted to let you know that I went with the white metal ceiling. It looks great and I can't believe the difference in the amount of heat retained. The furnace works great. I plan to work on insulating the walls as time allows. But it will nice to work in a warm garage this winter!

You can see I still need to install more lights. Also you can see the folding stairway that allows me some above ceiling storage. The jeep in the picture is our nearly completed 1949 CJ3a. It is loaded with items headed for overhead storage that I had moved to the barn during installation.

Thanks for all the comments and advice.

 

[MNBobcat]

Has anyone put up a metal ceiling when their rafters are 4 foot on center? Did you put up purlins first? I was just wondering if the metal holds it shape (avoids sagging) and can also hold the weight of the insulation if its put up without purlins.

 

[GeneD14]

My Morton building had ceiling rafter spacing about 7 foot on center. Steel ceiling panels attached that spanned the entire 7 foot with no purlins. 15" of blown in insulation on top. After 3 years it still looks perfect! You should have no problems going 4' on center.

 

[Duffster]

Has anyone put up a metal ceiling when their rafters are 4 foot on center? Did you put up purlins first? I was just wondering if the metal holds it shape (avoids sagging) and can also hold the weight of the insulation if its put up without purlins.

We do 8' o.c. all the time and it holds very well.

The only thing I do different is place a screw on both sides of the rib instead of one.

 

[MNBobcat]

Thanks guys. It makes my day to hear that I can use the metal without having to install purlins or other additional means of support.

How are the end joints normally handled? If you have rafters that are 4 foot OC, would you put up a 14 foot long panel so that it extends 2 foot beyond the last rafter or would you put up a 12 foot panel and have it end right at the rafter? I'm assuming instead of a butt joint that the next piece would overlap the end of the first piece? I'm trying to get a feel for how much overlap you want on the ends and where the joint should fall in relation to the rafter.

Thanks so much for the help. I've been wrestling trying to figure this one out for awhile.

 

[Duffster]

Thanks guys. It makes my day to hear that I can use the metal without having to install purlins or other additional means of support.

How are the end joints normally handled? If you have rafters that are 4 foot OC, would you put up a 14 foot long panel so that it extends 2 foot beyond the last rafter or would you put up a 12 foot panel and have it end right at the rafter? I'm assuming instead of a butt joint that the next piece would overlap the end of the first piece? I'm trying to get a feel for how much overlap you want on the ends and where the joint should fall in relation to the rafter.

Thanks so much for the help. I've been wrestling trying to figure this one out for awhile.

I typically install it seamless.

Otherwise overhang the first piece 8"-12" and end the top piece(bottom in this case) close to the truss.

It is not real critical either way.

 

[MNBobcat]

I typically install it seamless.

Otherwise overhang the first piece 8"-12" and end the top piece(bottom in this case) close to the truss.

It is not real critical either way.

Thanks again for the info.

 

[MNBobcat]

I typically install it seamless.

Otherwise overhang the first piece 8"-12" and end the top piece(bottom in this case) close to the truss.

It is not real critical either way.

Oh, sorry, one last question. Do you use the same gauge metal on the ceilings as on the walls? I called Menards and a 16 foot sheet (white) is $31.66. So I figure its gonna run $2,300.00 for the ceiling of my 14 x 70 pole building.

Just want to make sure I'm buying the right stuff and not spending more than I need too.

 

[Duffster]

Oh, sorry, one last question. Do you use the same gauge metal on the ceilings as on the walls? I called Menards and a 16 foot sheet (white) is $31.66. So I figure its gonna run $2,300.00 for the ceiling of my 14 x 70 pole building.

Just want to make sure I'm buying the right stuff and not spending more than I need too.

Yes just the regular 29 gauge.