Magnesium repair

[BeezFun]

I dropped my circular saw and broke the blade guard, which is magnesium. I'm pretty good at tig with steel and aluminum, but never welded magnesium. What filler would I use, any tips on settings? Hopefully I can use argon. I've done some brazing, would that be a better option? Here's some photos:
Shared album - Mark Leininger - Google Photos

 

[5030]

Buy a new one. Mag alloy will burn when you try to weld it.

 

[TractorGuy]

No personal experience but found this on a quick search that might help. He says he has more info on his web site for machine settings.

Tig Welding Techniques and Welding Magnesium - YouTube

 

[WranglerX]

Magnesium can be TIG welded, it's all about procedure and proper filler materials... Might be just easier to order replacement part from manufacturer though...

Dale

 

[MinnesotaDaveChalmers]

I tig welded a magnesium chainsaw case. Welded pretty good really.

But the rods are stupid level expensive.

I'd just buy a replacement for the saw.

 

[BeezFun]

Thanks for replies. The saw is no longer made or I'd order a part. I have right and left hand versions of this framing saw and it's kind of the 327 chevy of circular saws, it was really well made and balanced well. If I mess the guard up, I can still buy used ones on ebay, I'll probably buy one for the part.

 

[BeezFun]

But the rods are stupid level expensive.

Wow, you're not kidding. I looked up AZ101 filler, I can buy a used saw off ebay for less than the smallest quantity of filler anyone will sell me.

 

[BukitCase]

I think I'd do a bit more "google-fu" to verify gas type, tungsten type, etc, then try a fusion weld - it's broke NOW, nuthin' to lose. I have the left-blade version of that saw, the newer "replacement" really ISN'T... Steve

 

[hddnis]

I've welded a lot of it, it is easier than aluminum. Different, but easier.

It won't burn, I've tried to get it to do that and unless the piece was really small it wouldn't. On top of that most mag parts are an alloy and they are even harder to get to burn. Only really ignorant people even make this claim in relation to welding.

Used to be a guy on ebay that would sell you a pack of five rods for a reasonable price, don't know if he still does that or not.

 

[yomax4]

Wow, you're not kidding. I looked up AZ101 filler, I can buy a used saw off ebay for less than the smallest quantity of filler anyone will sell me.

You may want to look up AZ61A to tig that part. ( if you'r sure it's Magnesium ) I used to sell the AZ61A and AZ92A but the 62 was much more popular and a bit higher strength. I would think you could talk a welding supply out of a stick if you have a relationship there. For your thin application you can just use pure argon. Good Luck !

 

[BeezFun]

You may want to look up AZ61A to tig that part. ( if you'r sure it's Magnesium ) I used to sell the AZ61A and AZ92A but the 62 was much more popular and a bit higher strength. I would think you could talk a welding supply out of a stick if you have a relationship there. For your thin application you can just use pure argon. Good Luck !

I found a small quantity of AZ61A on ebay for $35, I think I'll take it on as a challenge.

 

[yomax4]

I found a small quantity of AZ61A on ebay for $35, I think I'll take it on as a challenge.

Wow, Stuff is getting spendy. Must be tariff sensitive. Glad to hear you are taking it on. The only things to really know are keep a tight arc, clean rod with a scotch brite pad and stainless brush the crap out of the part. Good Luck !!

 

[Threepoint]

I found a small quantity of AZ61A on ebay for $35, I think I'll take it on as a challenge.

That's the spirit. Be sure to report back on how it goes. :thumbsup:

 

[hddnis]

I'll often fit the cracked part together, clamp it as tight as possible. then use a course carbide burr to make a few divots right on the crack and weld those full as your tacks. Next I cut out sections with the carbide burr and weld them full. Thick areas can be built up in layers, you don't need a really wide groove, adjust the stick out to get down in deep areas.

Acetone can help with cleaning. Use a new stainless brush that you use for only mag welding. Sanding parts will make welding a real pain, the grit gets in the surface and messes with the puddle. Bright metal that is oil free is what you want.

 

[MinnesotaDaveChalmers]

Wow, Stuff is getting spendy. Must be tariff sensitive. Glad to hear you are taking it on. The only things to really know are keep a tight arc, clean rod with a scotch brite pad and stainless brush the crap out of the part. Good Luck !!

Tight arc is no joke, it looked like I had the tungsten buried in the puddle - but no "zap" like with aluminum.

 

[yomax4]

Tight arc is no joke, it looked like I had the tungsten buried in the puddle - but no "zap" like with aluminum.

Yeah it's like the tungsten was unaffected by touching the magnesium. I haven't done a lot of it but I remember accidentally touching the tungsten like I always do and nothing really happened. Kind of a grubby looking bead when completed.

 

[jwmorris]

I have welded magnesium wheels, engine cases and even an old chainsaw case.

The filler will oxidize black over time, I just scotch bright it shiny before I use it. Everything needs to be very clean just like aluminum and even then, sometimes, I get a little white 努eb like one might see if they don稚 get all of the galvanize off steel and weld it.

 

[spitter]

Did you go the other route and try to find a new guard ? Or find a similar saw used on flea bay or craig list .:drink:

 

[BeezFun]

Did you go the other route and try to find a new guard ? Or find a similar saw used on flea bay or craig list .:drink:

New parts aren't available, but there are plenty of used saws on ebay that I can cannibalize if I want to. I've got a call into porter cable to try to find out what alloy the guard is made of. Since winter's coming I'll have more indoor time, I'll probably try the weld just for the heck of it and then order a used saw for parts if I screw it up.

 

[dragoneggs]

New parts aren't available, but there are plenty of used saws on ebay that I can cannibalize if I want to. I've got a call into porter cable to try to find out what alloy the guard is made of. Since winter's coming I'll have more indoor time, I'll probably try the weld just for the heck of it and then order a used saw for parts if I screw it up.

Sounds like what my plan would typically be for something like this.