Loader M7040 can't lift a ton

[SPYDERLK]

I didnt have the 5040 around at lease place,so had to use the 7040. Tractor isnt loaded on rear and only has hay spear on back. Ton of feed in each picture they are just stacked different....
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Wow! Whats the pressure in those fronts?
larry

 

[foreman Etexas]

Wow! Whats the pressure in those fronts?
larry

I cant remember but it rides smooth while shredding,if going to do alot of loader work may need to add alittle. My Pallet fork are on the 5040,had to use the Hay forks to un-load.

 

[slowzuki]

The M20 is an ALO/Quicke loader that is sold on M series Kubota's in Canada. Up until recently the M's in Canada only had the ALO loaders. They are more expensive and in my opinion an higher quality loader than the LA loader, but depends what you're doing.

They've had softride/ride control, single lever hose disconnect, 3rd and 4th function valves, euro q/a, replaceable bushings at all pivots etc for at least 20 years now.

Mine has an m20 loader, what's the difference? Why two loaders for one tractor model? I only have 1100# bales this year, so that's all I've lifted that I know the weight of.

 

[beppington]

"M7040 can't lift a ton"

Oh, it can too ... just not all at once :laughing:

I kid! I kid! :thumbsup:

 

[IrishCreek]

My Kubota M7040 isn't new. It's a 2008 model and I can't afford to take into the dealer. Can you tell me where the valve is located or where I might look and how do I shim it? Don't know if it matters, but tractor also has a cab on it. Any help would really be appreciated.

 

[case245]

IrishCreek what are you trying to lift with your 7040 i have the same tractor mine has the 1153 fel loaded rears cast centers mine will lift the rear of my 3500hd srw off the ground 10 inches it may go more but i put it down at that point it will lift compacted earth 2 feet over the front of the bucket after i dig it lose with no teeth with 6 foot bucket

 

[IrishCreek]

pallets of lumber. Mine used to pick up the rear wheels but doesn't anymore and I'm trying to figure out why. Someone posted about shimming the adjustment valve, but I don't know where the valve is located.

 

[crazyal]

Are you using a set of quick attach forks or the clamp on the bucket style?

 

[MessickFarmEqu]

this is an old thread. If an LA1153 loader really is not lifting 2000lbs... something is wrong and shimming the valve is not going to be the proper solution.

 

[IrishCreek]

Quick Attach. Thanks!

 

[IrishCreek]

Suggestions? Any idea what might be the problem?

 

[crazyal]

I would suggest investing in a pressure gauge and some quick disconnects so you can check your hydraulic pressure. If you're thinking about adjusting the pressure relief valve to increase your pressure you need a gauge anyway. Otherwise just blindly adjusting something that may not be broken could lead you to causing bigger more expensive problems.

 

[94BULLITT]

I thought most tractors would lift more than what they were rated to.

 

[IrishCreek]

Thanks for the advice man. I will check to see how much a pressure gauge would cost me. If I do get one or borrow one, how do I check you check it and how do you adjust it? It's on the back of the tractor right? Even though the problem is with the loader on the front? I'm a good wrench, just haven't worked on these tractors...build older Fords from the ground up, but not newer tractors. Appreciate any help I can get here. Don't have the money to take it into the shop for sure. Talked to the mechanic at the dealership and he said he didn't have a clue what would cause it...obviously I will get burned there.

 

[CHDinCT]

To check my pressure with a gauge, I just put a quick connect fitting on the hose going to the pressure gauge and plugged it into one of the FEL ports, fired up the tractor and found the correct direction to move the joystick to put pressure to the gauge. Since the pressure will dead head at the gauge, don't hold the joy stick in that direction for too long - just long enough for the relief valve to open and for you to get a reading. Try it at idle and full RPM as there will be a bit more pressure at full RPM. As to where to shim it if the relief is set too low, can't help there. Not familiar with an M-sized machine. There might be a relief valve in the FEL valve and a main relief in the transmission somewhere. Looking over the parts diagrams may give you a clue. I believe Messick's has the diagrams on-line, or will e-mail them to you if requested. Good luck

 

[rScotty]

Thanks for the advice man. I will check to see how much a pressure gauge would cost me. If I do get one or borrow one, how do I check you check it and how do you adjust it?.........

On my old JD, I have a pressure gauge permanently installed on the loader control. That way it is easy to know just what kind of pressure the loader is seeing. The way to do it is instead of attaching the hydraulic pressure line directly to the loader controls, the line is attached to a simple plumbing "T" which is then threaded into the loader control. Then the pressure gauge is threaded into the other leg of the "T".

But before you do something similar, think about this: The JD has a fairly low pressure hydraulic system. Mine runs about 1200 to 1500 psi. That's why those parts on the JD can be and are all vintage hardware store fittings; the pressure gauge is a 5000 lb/in^2 type and cost less than $20. The "T" cost much less than that.
However, now that standard plumbing hardware is imported from any old low dollar provider, a person really ought to use a hydraulic pressure-rated pipe "T" and gauge.....and even so inspect them carefully to make sure they are up to the pressure. The parts being used today on my old JD date back to when US companies made these parts well and conscientiously. At that time it was common practice for farmers to use standard plumbing fittings on short hydraulic runs having less than 2000 psi. Systems run at higher pressures today, and fitting parts are of less consistent quality. I wouldn't do it the same way today.

Still, even using properly rated parts from the hydraulic shop, this type of device shouldn't cost much, and doesn't take more than a few minutes to install. And it tells a lot about the system at a glance.
rScotty

 

[radioman]

Thanks for the advice man. I will check to see how much a pressure gauge would cost me. If I do get one or borrow one, how do I check you check it and how do you adjust it? It's on the back of the tractor right? Even though the problem is with the loader on the front? I'm a good wrench, just haven't worked on these tractors...build older Fords from the ground up, but not newer tractors. Appreciate any help I can get here. Don't have the money to take it into the shop for sure. Talked to the mechanic at the dealership and he said he didn't have a clue what would cause it...obviously I will get burned there.

If you check out this site ,you should be able to make it work by swapping out the quick disconnects for one that fits yours or add a T. Surplus Center - 5000 PSI 2.5" LF LM GAUGE

 

[Cherrypicker7]

Yes it does work well, but it's $1100+ more, I have found that you can learn to work the joystick and almost achieve the same results. We handle a lot of stacked apple boxes, and the self leveler is safer when unloading. i.e. you don't roll the stack back on the opertor.

 

[big bubba]

btw as a safety measure when you start tapping into high pressure hyd lines, be careful! always stand aside from the line of fire when you connect gauge, etc. you don't want any chance of having that fluid in your face or injected into body parts!!