LT1042 Will Not Start

[paperpusher]

Hi,

I Have the Cub LT 1042, On Friday I came home cut the grass, put the cub in the garage. Got up Saturday morning got on the cub to areate the lawn,it would not. It turns over, its getting fuel, because the plug is wet. I also sprayed starting fluid into the carb, removed the spark plug ,left it connected to the plug wire and cranked it,the spark is blue. Started checking around for some answers. Jumped the seat safety swith, disconected the brake safety switch, but it turns over, and the brake light comes on like it supposed to. Removed the cooling crate above the flywheel to check for the sheard woodruf key, it was fine. Stood it up on it's rear tires, found a broken wire by the left rear tire, which looks like the switch that kicks off the PTO when you try to go in reverse. I was happy as you know what when I found that broken wire. Well I soldered the wire back, set the Cub back down on all fours, and IT Still Will Not Start. Help Please. Does anyone know what else could cause it not to start. Oh, if the plug is getting fire, that does mean that the magneto is fine right?

Help

Thanks

 

[Dave01]

You've got fuel, the plug is wet. You've got spark, so none of the safety switches is causing the problem. The wet plug makes me think you are flooding and can't fire, might be a carb float that isn't seating. That would be my guess.

 

[paperpusher]

I'll check that out. The wet plug I assumed just meant that it was getting fuel, but I may have flooded it before I found the broken reverse wire. Dave, do you think that the broken reverse wire would keep it from starting in the first place?

 

[Dave01]

The reverse wire is usually interlocked with the PTO so you can't engage the deck, not sure if that is the case on your model. The fact that you have good spark means none of the safety switches are stopping you from firing.

After it has sat for a while try removing the air filter, putting throttle at 3/4, no choke, and try cranking. If it doesn't fire right away add choke gradually as you crank.

You said the spark was blue, was it a good fat spark? A weak coil or bad points are other areas that could keep you from starting even though you see some spark.

 

[TractorLarry]

Bad gas ?

-Larry

 

[paperpusher]

Well today I took the float bowl off of the carb, it did have what seem to be water in the bottom, because it was seperated from the gas. The float was not sticking so I don't think it was getting to much gas. So, I'm not sure about the bad gas though, because I sprayed quick start directly into the carb. Unless it was flooded already.

 

[paperpusher]

Dave,

You mentioned points, are they under the flywheel? I may try replacing the magneto, the blue spark is not that fat, as you say.

 

[Fordlords]

There are no points. But this issue has been coming up a lot. If you have a Kohler Courage engine, it is likely the flywheel key has sheared. This will still allow for a spark, but it is way out of time. Some Courage engines got out of the factory with the flywheel improperly torqued. The flywheel needs to be pulled and the key replaced.

-Fordlords-

 

[dqdave1]

I agree; sheared flywheel key; it will look ok, but pull it and replace it.

 

[paperpusher]

The flywheel is pressed on, and I checked it, the key was in place and fine.

 

[Fordlords]

From what I have heard, it is very hard to tell there is a problem with the key from looking at it above. You mentioned you have a spark and are getting fuel, so if you then have compression (we will assume you do) the engine should do something, especially when spraying starting fluid in the intake.

If the key is sheared and causing the timing to be off however, it will do nothing, and this has been the case on the Courage engines where this problem has occurred. Unfortunately, unless you have a flywheel puller tool, you probably won't get the flywheel off by any other means short of ruining it which I don't recommend.

If that isn't it, you truly have me stumped

-Fordlords-

 

[Dave01]

Sorry about the bad info with my mention of points.

If the engine was already flooded, plugs wet, its possible the starting fluid wouldn't do the job. Since you saw water in the float bowls I'd drain the gas and add new, plus put some isopropyl gas dryer in with it.

 

[paperpusher]

Hey Guys,

Changed the gas, fuel filter, spark plug. Today, I pulled the flywheel found the woodruff key sheared all to h***, It wasn't even in the crankshaft key way. Went to the hardware store, got the key, put in, it started right up. So just want to say thanks to all for your help. It cost me a new coil $40.00, about 3 days in trouble shooting. Fordlord, you heard right, you can't just look at it from the top and think that the woodruff key is ok. PULL THE FLYWHEEL ON THE COURAGE ENGINES. OH, it cost me $20.00 for a harmonic ballance puller also. (LOL)

Thanks Guys

 

[Fordlords]

Glad you got it fixed. I think Kohler has issued a bulletin for this problem as it's happening a lot, the flywheel nut isn't torqued tight enough.
-Fordlords-

 

[orion]

I Have the same problem. I pulled the flywheel and the key is sheared off. I have a question though. Is this a special key does anyone know the size? Or how can I tell. Also is there a special way to get the flywheel on or do I just put it on and torque down the flywheel. Thanks

 

[flywfo]

Ladies/Gents: I had the same issue with my '05(ish) LT1042 cub cadet w/ 19hp kohler courage engine. Spark, fuel, still no start after shutting down a day previous. Woodruff key looked good from inspection before removing the flywheel. Took the advice of the above, and used a puller to remove it, and yup, the key had sheared off. Half was in the flywheel slot, the other half in the crankshaft... which was a quarter turn away.

To all with this issue: pull the flywheel, remove the broken key, and head to local hardware store for a new one. They'll have them in a drawer. Make sure you bring the old one to compare thickness -- I think it was 3/16". I don't recall the diameter... I got one of each. When reassembling, clean everything real well (no need to remove the magneto, the flywheel can be removed with it in place). You'll need a good hammer to knock the wheel back in place, and torque the bolt nice and tight.

 

[OldMachinist]

To answer the question about if the flywheel key is special. Yes the original key is made from a softer metal that the steel hardware store ones. This is so it will shear without doing any damage to the flywheel or crankshaft.