looking for another tractor

[skipperbrown]

Definitely look for a rebuild .... while you are driving your new tractor.

 

[aspg4]

I am new to the forum, having just joined Sat, Apr 25. I am hoping you folks can provide me with the professional help my wife is always telling me I need.

My previous tractor, a 2005 New Holland TC48DA, died a painful death a few weeks ago. It was no fault of the tractor but the idiot who was operating it (me). So now I am in the market for another tractor, new or used. I am looking for a good source of reliability info, akin to what is available from Consumer Reports for used cars, but instead for tractors. That way, I hope to avoid tractor manufacturers or models with a history of trouble.

Here is what I have: 160 acres, with ~80 in pasture and 80 in woods. I currently have no plans to cut the woods except to perhaps built UTV trails through them. I do cut the woods along the edges, where they have encroached into the pastures. Currently, 50 acres are leased to another farmer for hay cutting, with the other 30 being a bit overgrown (lots of trees interspersed) which I cut. I have the following implements: shredder/rotary mower, wood chipper, box blade, landscape rake, (SSQA) bucket, grapple, tree shear, stump bucket, hay bale spear, pallet forks.

I appreciate whatever advice you can provide.

Senile Texas Aggie

Go up to Ft. Smith to Bush Machine & Tractor and look at the TYM. Bought a T554 from his brother in De Queen a few years ago, and it has been a good tractor.

 

[SenileTexasAggie]

All,

I was unable to locate a diesel mechanic here in Booneville. I was able to locate a diesel mechanic in Fort Smith, the nearest large town. He quoted me a ballpark figure of $10-12K, not much less than the dealer.

Last Monday I stopped at a Branson dealer and looked at what they had and got a price quote for one, but did not test drive it. I also went to the Kubota dealer on Monday and got quotes for two different tractors: an MX6060 and an L5460. I didn't test drive those either. (It was bad weather on Monday despite a forecast for sunny skies, thus my reluctance to test drive them.) Today I went back to test drive the L5460, as that was what I thought I would like best. The test drive was a bit disturbing. First, the tractor bounced like it had beachball tires on the rear. I figured that was caused by no ballast in the tires nor an implement on the 3pt hitch. But the more disturbing item was when I tried to back up. (Their lot was quite jammed with equipment, so I could not drive in a loop, but instead had to drive down a dead end and then turn around.) When I pressed on the rear end of the direction pedal (an HST or HST+), the tractor leaped backward. I quickly slammed on the brakes before I collided with anything. I don't think I pressed the pedal that hard. But that was enough to make me reconsider getting an HST. To get a manual shift, I would need to go to an MX. But I am wondering if I overreacted to the sudden lurching backward and would get accustomed to the HST. (After telling my wife of my experience, she rightly pointed out that my initial use of my zero-turn mower was quite a comedy, and it was.) I don't mind using a manual transmission -- at least *I* determine when to shift gears, how much to rev up the engine, etc. But many folks love an HST and a manual transmission may cause the tractor to be not as valuable.

Comments?

Senile Texas Aggie

 

[Beeenvenue]

You need to try a different machine. Try one with separate pedals (some folks love the single pedal treadle design, I love my dual pedals). Also, hst typically have 3 ranges. On a flat lot the dealer may have left it in high and then yes the tractor moves and accelerates quickly, especially with your heel (less range of motion in t he back of your foot-easier to “stomp” on the hst) Drop into medium or low range and try again.

 

[wcampbell47]

All,

I was unable to locate a diesel mechanic here in Booneville. I was able to locate a diesel mechanic in Fort Smith, the nearest large town. He quoted me a ballpark figure of $10-12K, not much less than the dealer.

Last Monday I stopped at a Branson dealer and looked at what they had and got a price quote for one, but did not test drive it. I also went to the Kubota dealer on Monday and got quotes for two different tractors: an MX6060 and an L5460. I didn't test drive those either. (It was bad weather on Monday despite a forecast for sunny skies, thus my reluctance to test drive them.) Today I went back to test drive the L5460, as that was what I thought I would like best. The test drive was a bit disturbing. First, the tractor bounced like it had beachball tires on the rear. I figured that was caused by no ballast in the tires nor an implement on the 3pt hitch. But the more disturbing item was when I tried to back up. (Their lot was quite jammed with equipment, so I could not drive in a loop, but instead had to drive down a dead end and then turn around.) When I pressed on the rear end of the direction pedal (an HST or HST+), the tractor leaped backward. I quickly slammed on the brakes before I collided with anything. I don't think I pressed the pedal that hard. But that was enough to make me reconsider getting an HST. To get a manual shift, I would need to go to an MX. But I am wondering if I overreacted to the sudden lurching backward and would get accustomed to the HST. (After telling my wife of my experience, she rightly pointed out that my initial use of my zero-turn mower was quite a comedy, and it was.) I don't mind using a manual transmission -- at least *I* determine when to shift gears, how much to rev up the engine, etc. But many folks love an HST and a manual transmission may cause the tractor to be not as valuable.

Comments?

Senile Texas Aggie

So on two of the hst kubota tractors I owned there was a shift lever on the left side of the seat with three positions - L M H. I used L the slowest speed for hard work, M a little faster for medium duty work and H high speed for transport. I will grant you that if the lever was in H the tractor would be a bit jumpy. In my experience the HST was safer than gear shift or shuttle shift. I did a lot of front end loader work. The go pedal allows the tractor to move from standing still to the fastest speed possible in the range selected depending on foot pressure on the pedal. I could inch forward or backward much safer with the HST than any gear shift or shuttle shift I ever operated. I sometimes load pallets of sod onto my trailer with a shuttle shift fork lift and wish it was HST.

I had my L3901 outfitted with a "cruise control lever" for continuous forward mowing. Another lever on the left side of the seat. I could set my engine rpm at a steady 2000 and operate at any desired speed just by using the go pedal forward or backward. The neat part about that is when mowing you can reverse directions without slowing the pto because you have to do the clutch thing. I found the HST much safer when backing down an incline to mow along the edge of a canal. No chance of missing a shift and rolling into the water.

BTW I am a bit senile myself but never attended Aggie land.

I have moved on to a skid steer now because of the work I do. The skid steer has a joy stick for forward backward movement like the HST tractor. When I let go of the joy stick the machine stops. I can control speed by movement of the joystick the same as the go pedal on an HST tractor.

Just saying. My experience.

 

[rScotty]

All,

I was unable to locate a diesel mechanic here in Booneville. I was able to locate a diesel mechanic in Fort Smith, the nearest large town. He quoted me a ballpark figure of $10-12K, not much less than the dealer.

Last Monday I stopped at a Branson dealer and looked at what they had and got a price quote for one, but did not test drive it. I also went to the Kubota dealer on Monday and got quotes for two different tractors: an MX6060 and an L5460. I didn't test drive those either. (It was bad weather on Monday despite a forecast for sunny skies, thus my reluctance to test drive them.) Today I went back to test drive the L5460, as that was what I thought I would like best. The test drive was a bit disturbing. First, the tractor bounced like it had beachball tires on the rear. I figured that was caused by no ballast in the tires nor an implement on the 3pt hitch. But the more disturbing item was when I tried to back up. (Their lot was quite jammed with equipment, so I could not drive in a loop, but instead had to drive down a dead end and then turn around.) When I pressed on the rear end of the direction pedal (an HST or HST+), the tractor leaped backward. I quickly slammed on the brakes before I collided with anything. I don't think I pressed the pedal that hard. But that was enough to make me reconsider getting an HST. To get a manual shift, I would need to go to an MX. But I am wondering if I overreacted to the sudden lurching backward and would get accustomed to the HST. (After telling my wife of my experience, she rightly pointed out that my initial use of my zero-turn mower was quite a comedy, and it was.) I don't mind using a manual transmission -- at least *I* determine when to shift gears, how much to rev up the engine, etc. But many folks love an HST and a manual transmission may cause the tractor to be not as valuable.

Comments?

Senile Texas Aggie

I'm disappointed you couldn't locate a mechanic that suited. That's a price for a complete overhaul....but I'd bet it needs less than that. Still, there is no way to know. I'd not give up on that yet though. I once had a rebuild done through the local high school shop class.

I don't know the Bransons at all. But I sure do know that Kubota, because our Kubota M59 has that same basic engine & transmission, although my engine is earlier with a different emissions control setup. Still, it's pretty much the same machine.

As for the jumpy HST, that L5460 has a transmission called the HST plus. I have one of those myself. It's the best of the HST transmissions because it has a high/low on a stalk on the steering column so that each of the 3 ranges can be shifted H or L. In effect you have six speeds forward and in reverse. Yes, the foot heel/toe HST control does require an educated touch. And yes, it is always a bit jumpy in high range. Put it in Medium or Low range and then it is much more controllable. You have to do the range shift while sitting still, and yes that stupid HST plus range control is famous for being hard to move. You'll develop a touch for it, but I still have to bump my range shift..

I never did figure out how to do the heel/toe motion that pedal seems set up for. Plus my feet are big....er, huge. So like a lot of people on here I use my toe for forward and then move my foot sideways so that I use my toe for reverse as well. A lot of us use that foot control that way. And also like a lot of us with Kubotas, I actually prefer the two-pedal HST control for F/R like JD has.....but Kubota seems locked into their odd heel&toe control. I agree with what your wife said though.........we all get used to it, you would too. Oh, and there's another HST+ trick - see the next paragraph:

Something else that you should know about the HST+ tranny on that L5460 tractor is that there is a control right there on the dash to set the HST speed of engagement. It sounds to me like someone left that L5460 set on "aggressive" and in that setting the HST control will slam you back and forth. It's hard to learn that way, especially in high range. You want to dial it back when learning. Just twist the control to slow. Also, right next to that control there is another control there for whether or not you want "auto-throttle". Try that both ways. I like it to go back to idle when not under load. That makes it less jerky too. I'm not one who wants a diesel to always be revving. I like to do most of my work at low rpm....but not everyone does. The HST+is the best HST tranny on the market. Kubota is far ahead of the others with that. It's the best if you can get it.

On HST vs gears generally, the jury is still out. I'm also a guy who enjoys a nice powershift or shuttle shift and find that I kind of like the challenge of using it in close quarters. But for delicate for and aft movement I gotta admit the HST in low range (or the HST+ in low range/low speed) is way more accurate and easy to move an inch or two carefully. Plus it stops immediately when you lift your foot from the pedal. That's a nice feature on hills. Especially with a load.
For doing a lot of loader work or close quarter work the HST+ is the right way to go.

What HST doesn't do well is trot along at a constant speed when you are mowing, plowing, or roading it somewhere. As your foot inevitably bounces on the pedal the tractor will respond to that. So if you do a lot of constant speed type of work one of the geared trannys will suit better. Plus they are kind of traditional and although the HST doesn't know it, those power & shuttle shift trannys have gotten very good as well. Still the HST is good, the HST+ is exceptional, and yes, you will get it back if you ever sell. Not much market for gears anymore.
BTW, The manufacturers are just now beginning to incorporate a "cruise control" into the HST tranny tractors. I don't know anything about it as mine doesn't have it. Mine doesn't have it but it sure would be nice when roading it a mile to town. Otherwise the HST+ is better as most of my work is loader or backhoe.
Good luck,
rScotty

 

[rScotty]

Oh... and one more thing but it's a biggie.

Kubota has got a recall going on that just started and it's a doosey, a real mess. The work to be done involves splitting the brand new tractors and taking the HST tranny apart - UGH!
This is a real shame and I hate to see something like this difficult recall on such a good line of tractors.

You better check the serial number carefully, because you can bet the Kubota dealer sure has. If he's trying to sell one that is a recall serial number it's time to walk.

So before you go any farther with that tractor, go to the Kubota Forum here on TBN and check through the posts to see if the serial numbers on that L5460 are included in the on-going transmission bolt recall. Here is the URL link to that thead. Best read up on it:

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-buying-pricing/424729-l-series-hst-recall-2.html

In case you are already on your way down to the dealer today, I copied the the serial numbers for the recall from that thread, but read it if you can.

PSB-2020-046, released on 04/13/20 shows the models and serial number ranges. A revised list for L4701 was released on 04/27/2020 on the Dealer Portal.
L3560HST......45615-45973, 46090
L4060HST......45065-45446, 45826
L47...............50103-50106, 52251-52334
L4760HST......42560-42673
L5460HST......41666-41740
L6060HST......47691-48092
M62..............50065, 50066, 51350-51434
MX4800HST...54697-54979, 54981, 54986, 54990-54992, 54995, 54999-55011
MX5200HST...67080-68017
MX5800HST...55887-56223
L4701HST......65720-69754 (List has been revised

Good luck,
rScotty

 

[Egon]

My twenty two year old HST tractor has cruise control.

Many HST transmissions are capable of being adjustable for forward/reverse speed ratios.

 

[Jchonline]

All,

I was unable to locate a diesel mechanic here in Booneville. I was able to locate a diesel mechanic in Fort Smith, the nearest large town. He quoted me a ballpark figure of $10-12K, not much less than the dealer.

Last Monday I stopped at a Branson dealer and looked at what they had and got a price quote for one, but did not test drive it. I also went to the Kubota dealer on Monday and got quotes for two different tractors: an MX6060 and an L5460. I didn't test drive those either. (It was bad weather on Monday despite a forecast for sunny skies, thus my reluctance to test drive them.) Today I went back to test drive the L5460, as that was what I thought I would like best. The test drive was a bit disturbing. First, the tractor bounced like it had beachball tires on the rear. I figured that was caused by no ballast in the tires nor an implement on the 3pt hitch. But the more disturbing item was when I tried to back up. (Their lot was quite jammed with equipment, so I could not drive in a loop, but instead had to drive down a dead end and then turn around.) When I pressed on the rear end of the direction pedal (an HST or HST+), the tractor leaped backward. I quickly slammed on the brakes before I collided with anything. I don't think I pressed the pedal that hard. But that was enough to make me reconsider getting an HST. To get a manual shift, I would need to go to an MX. But I am wondering if I overreacted to the sudden lurching backward and would get accustomed to the HST. (After telling my wife of my experience, she rightly pointed out that my initial use of my zero-turn mower was quite a comedy, and it was.) I don't mind using a manual transmission -- at least *I* determine when to shift gears, how much to rev up the engine, etc. But many folks love an HST and a manual transmission may cause the tractor to be not as valuable.

Comments?

Senile Texas Aggie

Yes. HST+ you have quite a few adjustments (all electronic) to adjust the responsiveness of the transmission. I wont go into them here but your issue can be remedied with about 45 seconds in the menu settings on the machine. Second, I dont think a L5460 is big enough for your place. I would go with a larger machine, but that’s just me. Entry M7060 and maybe up to a larger machine. Just my 2 cents. I guess if it means you cant use current implements you might stick with the appropriate size tractor....
Oh and I graduated from Univ of Texas so this is great fodder for the next rival game! .

 

[tradosaurus]

All,

I was unable to locate a diesel mechanic here in Booneville. I was able to locate a diesel mechanic in Fort Smith, the nearest large town. He quoted me a ballpark figure of $10-12K, not much less than the dealer.

Last Monday I stopped at a Branson dealer and looked at what they had and got a price quote for one, but did not test drive it. I also went to the Kubota dealer on Monday and got quotes for two different tractors: an MX6060 and an L5460. I didn't test drive those either. (It was bad weather on Monday despite a forecast for sunny skies, thus my reluctance to test drive them.) Today I went back to test drive the L5460, as that was what I thought I would like best. The test drive was a bit disturbing. First, the tractor bounced like it had beachball tires on the rear. I figured that was caused by no ballast in the tires nor an implement on the 3pt hitch. But the more disturbing item was when I tried to back up. (Their lot was quite jammed with equipment, so I could not drive in a loop, but instead had to drive down a dead end and then turn around.) When I pressed on the rear end of the direction pedal (an HST or HST+), the tractor leaped backward. I quickly slammed on the brakes before I collided with anything. I don't think I pressed the pedal that hard. But that was enough to make me reconsider getting an HST. To get a manual shift, I would need to go to an MX. But I am wondering if I overreacted to the sudden lurching backward and would get accustomed to the HST. (After telling my wife of my experience, she rightly pointed out that my initial use of my zero-turn mower was quite a comedy, and it was.) I don't mind using a manual transmission -- at least *I* determine when to shift gears, how much to rev up the engine, etc. But many folks love an HST and a manual transmission may cause the tractor to be not as valuable.

Comments?

Senile Texas Aggie

I think now is a good time to buy a new tractor with 0% interest for many brands.

Your issue with bent oil stick reminds me to check my oil level before I use my tractor each time. I'm bad about checking it.

As far as the HST if you do a lot of forward/backward movement you will like it. Try a different tractor when you test drive it to make sure it wasn't tractor specific and check the recalls.

Also might be worth getting a quote from Texarkana Tractor. Call Thomas Diekens.

My wife is a Texas A&M graduate (1987). I remember the Aggie bonfire in 1986 when I dated her and got to visit the campus.

 

[Cruiserdog]

If everything else on the tractor s Ok, and you liked it, why not simply rebuild the engine? It would doubtless be a bunch less $$ than buying a new one. For $10 k you could probably buy a new engine. Older Diesel engines
aren’t that complex-if you’re willing you could probably overhaul the engine yourself. I am NOT a mechanic by any means but I rebuilt a 25 horse John Deere (Yanmar) 14 years ago. (Had the crank turned, new bearings, rods, pistons, head rebuilt. Local shop did the head and crank, I tore her down and put it back together. I had less than 1k in it in parts and it was still running when I traded it many years later)

 

[paulfun9]

If everything else on the tractor s Ok, and you liked it, why not simply rebuild the engine? It would doubtless be a bunch less $$ than buying a new one. For $10 k you could probably buy a new engine. Older Diesel engines
aren’t that complex-if you’re willing you could probably overhaul the engine yourself. I am NOT a mechanic by any means but I rebuilt a 25 horse John Deere (Yanmar) 14 years ago. (Had the crank turned, new bearings, rods, pistons, head rebuilt. Local shop did the head and crank, I tore her down and put it back together. I had less than 1k in it in parts and it was still running when I traded it many years later)

This is the solution!
Rebuild it, if you are not able place an ad someplace looking for someone who can. You just might be surprised that someone nearby is able to do the job for a lot less than the dealership.
Around here I coold recommend a few people because they are well known by those of us who do this kind of stuff but when people who don’t travel in our social circle need this type of work they have no clue who or where these people are.

 

[SenileTexasAggie]

If everything else on the tractor s Ok, and you liked it, why not simply rebuild the engine? It would doubtless be a bunch less $$ than buying a new one. For $10 k you could probably buy a new engine. Older Diesel engines aren’t that complex-if you’re willing you could probably overhaul the engine yourself. I am NOT a mechanic by any means but I rebuilt a 25 horse John Deere (Yanmar) 14 years ago. (Had the crank turned, new bearings, rods, pistons, head rebuilt. Local shop did the head and crank, I tore her down and put it back together. I had less than 1k in it in parts and it was still running when I traded it many years later)

This is the solution!
Rebuild it, if you are not able place an ad someplace looking for someone who can. You just might be surprised that someone nearby is able to do the job for a lot less than the dealership.
Around here I coold recommend a few people because they are well known by those of us who do this kind of stuff but when people who don’t travel in our social circle need this type of work they have no clue who or where these people are.

I am not terrified to overhaul the engine -- after all, I helped my dad overhaul 3 different engines (2 cars and 1 truck) back in the late 1960s. So I know the basic idea. My problems in doing the overhaul/rebuild are: (1) I am a lot older (nearing 68) and thus not nearly as strong as I once was, (2) I don't have enough equipment I think I would need to disassemble/reassemble an engine, such as (a) a ridge reamer so that I can remove the pistons, (b) a boring machine (it almost certainly will need to be rebored, considering I ran it without oil for 2 hours), (c) an engine hoist (for the head, if nothing else), (d) a transmission jack to hold the transmission while I removed the clutch and pressure plate. I am not sure how I could remove the flywheel and harmonic balancer from the crankshaft, but maybe the machine shop could do that, (e) lots of other tools that don't come to mind, (3) locating the engine parts at a much lower cost than what the dealer estimated (which they said was around $8-10K).

After all, I am not running a business, so I don't HAVE to have another tractor, at least not right away. It's just that I would really LIKE to have a tractor soon, as I have a good bit of things that need doing, such as picking up brush in the pastures I have leased for haying (they should not have to do that). I will look into advertising for someone who can do it and a place that sells parts. What forum do you folks recommend? Craig's List? Tractor House? Other?

Comments?

Senile Texas Aggie

 

[fried1765]

I am not terrified to overhaul the engine -- after all, I helped my dad overhaul 3 different engines (2 cars and 1 truck) back in the late 1960s. So I know the basic idea. My problems in doing the overhaul/rebuild are: (1) I am a lot older (nearing 68) and thus not nearly as strong as I once was, (2) I don't have enough equipment I think I would need to disassemble/reassemble an engine, such as (a) a ridge reamer so that I can remove the pistons, (b) a boring machine (it almost certainly will need to be rebored, considering I ran it without oil for 2 hours), (c) an engine hoist (for the head, if nothing else), (d) a transmission jack to hold the transmission while I removed the clutch and pressure plate. I am not sure how I could remove the flywheel and harmonic balancer from the crankshaft, but maybe the machine shop could do that, (e) lots of other tools that don't come to mind, (3) locating the engine parts at a much lower cost than what the dealer estimated (which they said was around $8-10K).

After all, I am not running a business, so I don't HAVE to have another tractor, at least not right away. It's just that I would really LIKE to have a tractor soon, as I have a good bit of things that need doing, such as picking up brush in the pastures I have leased for haying (they should not have to do that). I will look into advertising for someone who can do it and a place that sells parts. What forum do you folks recommend? Craig's List? Tractor House? Other?

Comments?

Senile Texas Aggie

Ask friends and neighbors, and friends of friends and neighbors.

 

[rScotty]

I am not terrified to overhaul the engine -- after all, I helped my dad overhaul 3 different engines (2 cars and 1 truck) back in the late 1960s. So I know the basic idea. My problems in doing the overhaul/rebuild are: (1) I am a lot older (nearing 68) and thus not nearly as strong as I once was, (2) I don't have enough equipment I think I would need to disassemble/reassemble an engine, such as (a) a ridge reamer so that I can remove the pistons, (b) a boring machine (it almost certainly will need to be rebored, considering I ran it without oil for 2 hours), (c) an engine hoist (for the head, if nothing else), (d) a transmission jack to hold the transmission while I removed the clutch and pressure plate. I am not sure how I could remove the flywheel and harmonic balancer from the crankshaft, but maybe the machine shop could do that, (e) lots of other tools that don't come to mind, (3) locating the engine parts at a much lower cost than what the dealer estimated (which they said was around $8-10K).

After all, I am not running a business, so I don't HAVE to have another tractor, at least not right away. It's just that I would really LIKE to have a tractor soon, as I have a good bit of things that need doing, such as picking up brush in the pastures I have leased for haying (they should not have to do that). I will look into advertising for someone who can do it and a place that sells parts. What forum do you folks recommend? Craig's List? Tractor House? Other?

Comments?

Senile Texas Aggie

Well, it's good to see that you understand the process... and kind of disappointing that so many of us with the knowledge and ability to do simple repairs are rapidly getting to the age where we prefer to spend out time doing something else. I wish I could direct you somewhere. There are still a few who do this kind of work, but not so many. It took some digging, but I've found enough locally to keep my own machines maintained (I'm older than you). But the guys who do it aren't young either.
The key is having a local engine machine shop to do the boring, cranks, and heads. As you and others point out, the rest is just bolting it together. It used to be there were engine machine shops in most towns. Now they are becoming rare.

Owner repairability is actually a big deal in the tractor industry and has been a subject of tractor industry discussions for some time now. It's a common subject at Ag shows, too. Texas and Nebraska are particularly active. There are proponents on both sides of the issue - i.e. owner repairability vs dealer-only repairability. It's big enough that there are legal challenges right now going on over things like the ownership of proprietary manufacturing designs vs. owner having the right to tinker with their own machinery. Both sides even have lobbying organizations. Some of it initiially grew out of emissions control software, but the whole industry was quick to see the $$ value of restricting repairability to dealers only. So it is now a bi-partisan issue.

BloomBerg Business Week did a long article from a John Deere perspective in their March 9 issue this year.
rScotty

None of which helps you get closer to a new tractor.
And although I favor repair when you can, I sure wouldn't miss this chance to have a new spiffy tractor as well. Especially with over 100 acres...

 

[Hay Dude]

I am new to the forum, having just joined Sat, Apr 25. I am hoping you folks can provide me with the professional help my wife is always telling me I need.

My previous tractor, a 2005 New Holland TC48DA, died a painful death a few weeks ago. It was no fault of the tractor but the idiot who was operating it (me). So now I am in the market for another tractor, new or used. I am looking for a good source of reliability info, akin to what is available from Consumer Reports for used cars, but instead for tractors. That way, I hope to avoid tractor manufacturers or models with a history of trouble.

Here is what I have: 160 acres, with ~80 in pasture and 80 in woods. I currently have no plans to cut the woods except to perhaps built UTV trails through them. I do cut the woods along the edges, where they have encroached into the pastures. Currently, 50 acres are leased to another farmer for hay cutting, with the other 30 being a bit overgrown (lots of trees interspersed) which I cut. I have the following implements: shredder/rotary mower, wood chipper, box blade, landscape rake, (SSQA) bucket, grapple, tree shear, stump bucket, hay bale spear, pallet forks.

I appreciate whatever advice you can provide.

Senile Texas Aggie

Rent a tractor for a year and have the engine rebuilt. New DPF/DEF engines are very complex and require more $ maintenance. IMO, the tractor you have is a good one.
I have 4 pre-DPF tractors and although they have some electronics, they dont have exhaust treatments. You dont want them, either.

 

[Beeenvenue]

Are you serious? I looked at renting for my first year and the cost rapidly approaches 1/2 of an entire new unit (much greater if you rent day or week at a time over a year).

And if you haven’t run the new tier 4 engines, then perhaps your fear is based on some of the early ones - I didn’t own one of those and I’ve heard the horror stories, but you don’t find very many at all for tractors made post 2017 or so. (Yes problems exist but not many as a percentage of tractors sold).

 

[Hay Dude]

Are you serious? I looked at renting for my first year and the cost rapidly approaches 1/2 of an entire new unit (much greater if you rent day or week at a time over a year).

And if you haven’t run the new tier 4 engines, then perhaps your fear is based on some of the early ones - I didn’t own one of those and I’ve heard the horror stories, but you don’t find very many at all for tractors made post 2017 or so. (Yes problems exist but not many as a percentage of tractors sold).

Yeah I’m serious, but I should have specified a used tractor on dealer lot. Were you thinking I was referring to a NEW tractor? :laughing:
Many dealerships have a used tractor lot and they will allow you to use one as a “ loaner “ while yours is being fixed. I did this and they let me use it free for a couple weeks.

 

[Bigfoot62]

I really liked it. It had a manual 12x12 transmission and all of the power I needed except a time or two when the loader (LA 16) could not pick up a log or tree truck. I would gladly buy another one if I could find another in decent shape. I looked on tractorhouse DOT com and there were only three listed in the entire USA. along with only 3 for its bigger brother TC53DA. It was an open station style tractor. If I buy another tractor, I am considering a cab.

. . . On Monday and Tuesday a couple of weeks ago, I cut down every cedar tree I could get to in the pasture that I mow, part of my thinning out of the trees in that area. Unknown to me, sometime on Tuesday a tree or limb bent my oil dipstick tube, causing oil to blow out of the crankcase. On Wednesday, I went out to pick up all of the cedar trees I had cut down. I noticed that there was a small amount of oil on the shop floor on the right side of the tractor. I decided that I would look into the source of the leak when I got finished picking up the cedar trees. While I was picking up the trees, the oil pressure light came on. Here's the bigger idiot part -- for some reason I thought that the oil pressure light was on the left and the light that was on simply meant that the tractor was not running. I thought that perhaps I had dislodged the wire, as I had done that numerous times with the neutral safety switch (I finally had to bypass the neutral safety switch because it kept getting torn loose by brush). So I kept working for 2 hours or so with no oil in the engine. Finally, as I backed into the shop, the engine started making a really bad knocking sound (I wonder why ). Once I went into the house, I looked up in the owner's manual just exactly what that light meant. When it said oil pressure, I became physically ill, and it hit me that I had most certainly ruined the engine. . .

If you really like your tractor, why don't you check with the dealer about the cost of a total rebuild, or replacement of the engine. If that's all that's wrong with it, I'm quite sure it'll be cheaper to replace the engine than the tractor.

 

[Beeenvenue]

The ones I looked at were like used cars - good condition but has been rented before. I looked and called and couldn’t find anything except for short term rentals and yes those were still $$$. Perhaps my location south of Dallas means there is a higher demand, or perhaps 25-40 hp CUTs (what I was looking for) rent at a higher % of actual sales price.