Longer bar for Stihl M261 - relative novice.

[Hay Dude]

This is the quote I received for a Stihl MS462 wrap handle.

1 - 20" bar with 2 extra chains
1 - 25" bar with 2 extra chains

I went ahead and asked about Carbide chains.... well... THAT won't be happening.

1 - 20" - $409.99 + tax
1 - 25" - $479.99 + tax

View attachment 3569431

Damn thats crazy expensive for that saw.
If you are going from a 261 to a 462, I’d look at a lightweight bar, so you can keep the weight down.
The power to weight ratio on that saw isn’t all that great, but better than 261C.

I guess it all depends on how much you want to spend, and how much weight you want to lug around…

 

[Jrasband]

The last thing I would want to do is lug around a heavy saw.

The 261 is heavy enough as is and powerful enough to easily take care of anything you would regularly throw at it, with a 20" bar on it as well. This is as long as you keep your chain sharp which is easy to do with a Stihl 4 n 1 tool.

 

[Canuckz]

Some great comments and information provided already by others in this thread but quick chime in.

261 -16"
362 - 20"
500i - 28"

This setup works for me as farmer clearing brush and the odd tree. I would not put a 20" on 261. 462 is a great saw and I have some Echo saws as well. Husqvarna and Echo both make nice saws too. I am not a saw snob. Find best price and dealer on any of these brands to support you.

 

[xyz123]

I ran a 462 and 500 back to back.

I would take the 462 for the 25" aka 24" under bars all day.

It's power to weight is actually great.

STIHL MS 462 72.2 4.4 5.9 6.0 13.2 0.73 at #2 on stihl new saws.

Those prices on carbide chain about double the cost of we pay here.

Your dealer must stick to high book retail on everything.

 

[Jrasband]

Some great comments and information provided already by others in this thread but quick chime in.

261 -16"
362 - 20"
500i - 28"

This setup works for me as farmer clearing brush and the odd tree. I would not put a 20" on 261. 462 is a great saw and I have some Echo saws as well. Husqvarna and Echo both make nice saws too. I am not a saw snob. Find best price and dealer on any of these brands to support you.

I am a grass farmer, my pastures are all edged with trees, 1/3 of my property is woods, and I heat my home exclusively with wood. I also do tree work on the side because I enjoy it so much.

My only saw is a 261 with a 20" bar. I swapped the 18" for a 20" years ago and never looked back. The only mod I have done to the saw is open up the muffler.

I usually swap my chain after 1 tank of fuel, if not than 2 tanks.

I find the 261 to be plenty adequate with a 20" bar.

 

[Canuckz]

One thing I've never failed to comprehend and that is, why people must buy a saw with a bar that is longer than the largest tree they plan on cutting down. Longest bar I run is 20". If the tree in question had a diameter bigger then 20", I split the cut. Not to say I don't own larger bars because I do, I just don't use them. My Stihl 090G carries a 4 1/2 foot bar and my 075 Stihl carries a 36" bar. Both are insanely heavy (saw and powerhead) and not at all comfortable to use. Bought them a long time ago when I owned and operated a tree removal business and they were only used for bucking trees on the ground, prior to hauling the logs away. They both sit on a shelf in the shop, devoid of fuel and oil, collecting dust today. I might sell them someday as they are both worth some serious jack.

99% of the time I use my Echo Top Handle Arborist saw and it has a 14" bar on it and it serves my needs just fine. It's light, easy to start and easy on fuel and it didn't break my wallet to buy either. Dropped some large trees with it in the past as well. It's my 'go to' saw because it's easy to operate. I do use my 520 Echo Timber bear as well as my 028 but I prefer the top handle over all of them. the 520 and the 28 both have 20" roller nose bars with greaseable noses.

Bigger is better may apply to some things but it don't apply to chainsaws, least in my opinion.

Agreed. I use my Echo CS-2511TN for most of the cutting as it is so light it just a joy to us. However, I like using my 500i with 28" bar for bucking and limbing because I am lazy and do not want more bending over than I have to. LOL

 

[Fuddyduddy1952]

They are called misery whips and I can tell you from experience they are just that!! The art of sawing with them is to only pull from your side and never push.

Yes. Grandad had one.
Rhythm

 

[5030]

Candidly speaking, I rarely use the bucking spikes on any of my saws either. If the loop is sharp and rakers set correctly, the chain will self feed it self for the most pare with maybe some gentle use of the spikes.

Really only bucking spikes do is to provide leverage to 'lever' the bar into a cut and bog down the powerhead, especially true with a dull chain making sawdust instead of chips. For me, once a loop starts building pitch on the leading side of the teeth, it's time to change put for a fresh, sharp loop something I always carry with me.

 

[WinterDeere]

261 -16"
362 - 20"
500i - 28"

Exactly what I'd run, as well. Anyone who thinks they should be run with bigger bars isn't cutting a lot of large-diameter oak.

I'm presently running:

36cc = 12" (T435)
63cc = 19" (036 Pro / predecessor to MS362)
85cc = 28" (064 AV / predecessor to MS660)

 

[WinterDeere]

Candidly speaking, I rarely use the bucking spikes on any of my saws either. If the loop is sharp and rakers set correctly, the chain will self feed it self for the most pare with maybe some gentle use of the spikes.

useful when wood diameter is larger than bar length. Chain rounding the nose wants to constantly "lift" the tip of the bar, and leaning against those spikes is one means of keeping things moving in the desired direction, as well as reducing probability of kick-back if your plunge starts shallow and then increases in depth during cut.