Logsplitter 2.0

[rswyan]

This was the first round I attempted to lift ... not really sure what type of wood it is ... thought it might be ash ... but the grain is a little different and the bark seems different (deeper furrows) than what I have here on the property ... but then I don't have any ash this size growing on the property either.

Dunno what it weighed but it was a bear to wrestle ... both before and after it split. Longest dimension on the diameter was 31 1/2"

Amount of angle after adjusting the clevis out on the rod:

The 4-way wouldn't touch it ... but the fixed wedge split it fine:

 

[rswyan]

Couple of things I've decided, after having used it with larger rounds:

1. The table grate isn't wide enough (only 3' or so) ... I'm going to add at least 6" on either side.

2. The outside pipes on the table grate that are angled up at 45 degrees have too much gap between them and the pipe they sit above, which allows to splits to catch on the supporting round bar that holds them up. It's only a matter of time before split gets caught and something gets really torn up ... so I'm going to add some sheet metal so there's nothing for splits to catch on.

3. The smaller Schedule 40 pipe I used on the table grate seems to be holding up pretty well ... which kinda surprises me, consider the weight of some of the rounds I split today. I had one round of northern red oak that I split today that was roughly 26" in diameter (24" x 28") ... which probably weighed over 500 lbs.

4. I really like the way that the "thin knife edge" that I added to the 4-way penetrated and got the splits going ... so I'm going to add a 1" wide (sharpened) piece of 1/4" or 5/16" bar stock to the front of the fixed wedge.

5. Had a half a round roll off the log lift (it was lowered 3/4 of the way to the ground) and bounce off the hydraulic reservoir (6" box tube) No damage ... but given the weight of some of these pieces, one of the next things I'm going to be looking to add is guards for the stuff on the rear (plumbing, engine, etc.) May also add a "railing" to the log lift itself.

6. Feathering the control valve for log lift keeps the raise/lower speed plenty slow enough ... possibly due to the size of the cylinder and hoses I used, as well as the unloader settings on the pump. It didn't take much more than 500 psi to raise any of the rounds I lifted. I probably really don't need a flow control valve, but I'll go ahead and add it since I've ordered it ... just to prevent any inadvertent mishaps.

7. The unloader settings seems to be working well for splitting too ... so I'll probably leave that alone for the time being. The engine seems to start to run out of steam around 2200 - 2300 psi ... but it rarely gets there ... if I'm cautious about what I'm using the 4-way wedge on.

 

[jimmysisson]

Having your lift able to go below ground level means you can use it on uneven terrain. When you're rolling that big elm chunk up a grade to the lift you don't want the lift platform 4" off the ground! I also like the table to be able to angle down toward the i beam, when raised. That way you can gang a few rounds to be split on the table and easily pull them toward you by hand (or picaroon), without lifting each separately. Jim

 

[rswyan]

Having your lift able to go below ground level means you can use it on uneven terrain.

That's a good point.

I don't think I'd want to put anything real heavy on the lift with the cylinder way off the ground while at full retraction.

When you're rolling that big elm chunk up a grade to the lift you don't want the lift platform 4" off the ground!

Yeah ... I've gotten too old for any ideas about rolling rounds uphill ... particularly big ones.

I used the tractor and the grapple to place a number of good-sized rounds on the lift yesterday ... just have to watch the tire on the splitter to make sure I don't spear it with a tine.

I also like the table to be able to angle down toward the i beam, when raised. That way you can gang a few rounds to be split on the table and easily pull them toward you by hand (or picaroon), without lifting each separately. Jim

Yup ... I was a little concerned about it going too high (too much angle) with a large round on ... since I'm going to be more or less standing in it's path if it were to roll right on through

But based on the speed that the lift operates (not too touchy) I should be able to avoid that.

And thanks for the reminder about a picaroon ... need to fab one of those up ... :thumbsup:

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

4. I really like the way that the "thin knife edge" that I added to the 4-way penetrated and got the splits going ... so I'm going to add a 1" wide (sharpened) piece of 1/4" or 5/16" bar stock to the front of the fixed wedge.

Now hold up there a second Speedy. Based on your pictures in Post 365, you don't have any room to add anymore to the front of your fixed wedge without rebuilding your 4-way.

 

[rswyan]

Now hold up there a second Speedy. Based on your pictures in Post 365, you don't have any room to add anymore to the front of your fixed wedge without rebuilding your 4-way.

Heheheh ... DOH ! :mur:

:laughing:

Guess I'd better just concentrate on fixing the interference issue between the knife edge on the 4-way and the push block for now ...

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

Heheheh ... DOH ! :mur:

:laughing:

Guess I'd better just concentrate on fixing the interference issue between the knife edge on the 4-way and the push block for now ...

It's ok....I'll keep it just between us

 

[rswyan]

Oh, thanks ...

 

[rswyan]

Picked another 21' stick of 3/4" Schedule 40 pipe today along with some other stuff.

That's enough to add another 3 rails on each side ... using the existing 3" on centers spacing, it will add 9" more table grate to each side and give the table grate an overall width of 54" (versus it's current 36" width)

Which hopefully be enough to leave a split on one side while I resplit the other one.

 

[rswyan]

Got the hanger for the 10 gallon tank made up and welded onto the splitter:

Still have to weld on a couple of pieces of angle to bolt the tank to, and run the plumbing.

The extra 70 lbs or so behind the axle should make it a little easier to tip up to reposition it.