Logsplitter 2.0

[LD1]

Since its just a splitter, I'd put the oil into something with a bottom drain, let it set for a few days, and drain the water off the bottom.

What is left will boil out if you manage to run the splitter long enough and get the oil over 212 degrees.

 

[rswyan]

LD,

Thanks for the input.

Yeah ... I'm going to have a look at it when I head up to the shop today, to see how much more it's separated if any.

I have a little hand-held battery operated pump that is sold to fill kerosene heaters ... might try using that to skim the clear(er) oil off the top, back into the 10 gallon tank ... or just dump all of it in there. Then maybe stick a 500w halogen light or two right next to the tank pointing at it, as I understand having it warmer helps the water to separate from the oil.

Then use the petcock to drain whatever I can off the bottom of the tank.

Another alternative is to use a pot and an hot plate (or a crockpot) and see if I can't cook it out ... here's a previous TBN thread that discusses something along those lines ... with a variety of opinions on the wisdom of doing so ... :

Purging milky oil from system

 

[rswyan]

Meant to post these two pics yesterday. They show the plates on the underside of the push block, that capture the push block to the beam. I think the plates are 3/8" thick x 3" wide.

Notice the edge at the very front, where there isn't a bolt and how it's bent down:

The side shown in the first photo seems to be the worst of the two.

I think this was caused by trying to split rounds that wanted to cause the push block to rise up off the beam.

Questions are:

1. How concerned should I be about this ?

2. Should I trim those plates on the bottom back some, closer to the bolts that secure them to the push block ?

3. Do I need to consider using a thicker plate for those pieces ?

In other news, I tried using an electric countertop warming plate to heat up some water, thinking about trying to get the water out of the hydraulic fluid. It didn't get hot enough really ... couldn't boil the water.

I've been thinking about picking up an electric countertop burner to do that. They are relatively cheap ($10 or so) ... Walmart offers one with adjustable temperature settings that gets hot enough to melt zinc (785 degrees) when on "High" ... had the wife look for one while she was out shoe shopping yesterday ... she tried Walmart, Target, and Lowes and couldn't find anything ... so it might be something you have to order in.

 

[LD1]

I'd put a bolt in the front and squeeze it back down.

As to the oil, if you are dead-set you want to boil it, best thing I can think of is get a propane turkey fryer.

 

[rswyan]

I'd put a bolt in the front and squeeze it back down.

The photos are kind of deceiving as far as the setback of the bolts from the edge ... I don't think there is enough room there to drill a hole and get a bolt with its head (and/or a nut) ... due to interference with the upright portion of the push block.

If memory serves, I think I actually had it drilled for another bolt in the front of the bottom of the push block, but ran into the interference issue and filled the holes in.

In hindsight, I probably just should have ground back the weld a little and went with it.

Or made a better design decision as far as hole placement goes.

As to the oil, if you are dead-set you want to boil it, best thing I can think of is get a propane turkey fryer.

I don't think I'm going to actually have to boil it ... the water should evaporate/steam off somewhere below the boiling point.

As far as the turkey fryer goes, know where I can pick one up for $9.95 ?

Another thing that concerns me about the turkey fryer is the open flame in proximity to hot oil ...

 

[LD1]

Another thing that concerns me about the turkey fryer is the open flame in proximity to hot oil ...

People cook turkeys all the time like that

 

[/pine]

Heck...Just take it in the kitchen and put it on the stove...The wife won't mind...! be sure to turn the exhaust fan on though...!

 

[Ford850]

I didn't know there was anyone left who didn't have a turkey fryer.
Mine gets used for lots, including trap dying, canning, fish fries, huge batches of french fries onion rings and mushrooms, stews, etc. I don't know the last time I used it for a turkey though.
When my brother organizes a fish fry, I think more guys show up with fryers than with beer, unfortunately.

 

[rswyan]

People cook turkeys all the time like that

Good point ... lol ...

 

[rswyan]

Heck...Just take it in the kitchen and put it on the stove...The wife won't mind...! be sure to turn the exhaust fan on though...!

I've already been banned from using the kitchen for anything shop-related ...

Apparently she didn't much care for that lingering odor ... after I used her oven for baking enamel ...

 

[LD1]

I really think you need a turkey fryer.

As far as being banned from the kitchen....a $50 Craigslist special oven is a nice asset for the shop.

Preheat bearings, check.
Boil water out of oil, check.
Preheat parts for welding, check.
Post heat/slow cool welded parts, check.
Rod oven, check.
Bake painted parts,check.


The possibilities are endless.

 

[/pine]

I really think you need a turkey fryer.

As far as being banned from the kitchen....a $50 Craigslist special oven is a nice asset for the shop.

Preheat bearings, check.
Boil water out of oil, check.
Preheat parts for welding, check.
Post heat/slow cool welded parts, check.
Rod oven, check.
Bake painted parts,check.
The possibilities are endless.

Not quite as utile as stove/oven/range in the shop...but I learned long ago it was best to have my own (steam) iron for the shop...(now have a few from garage sales etc...)...they come in handy more often than one might think...

Invert one and put the handle in a vice and you can keep a cup of coffee warm...!

 

[rswyan]

Managed to sneak out to the hardware and get the flat and lock washers I needed to bolt down the 2nd hydraulic tank so that a done. After dinner I ran down to Autozone and picked up a couple of quarts of Castrol straight 30 weight.

Got the drain petcock installed in the axle/cross tube and cut the storage/transport mounting ring for the outrigger foot. Need to weld that on in the morning and change the oil out in the engine.

After that I'll fill the hydraulic reservoirs ... hopefully most of the water has settled out of the hydraulic fluid in the one five gallon bucket.

I called Walmart today and found they had the electric burner The Woman tried to find but couldn't yesterday. She volunteered to swing by and grab it on the way home as penance ...

 

[rswyan]

Seems to work:

Required boiling it ... will know more in the morning as far as how effective it was.

This is a pretty dicey operation ... mainly because the bubbling can become pretty violent in short order, as the water turns into steam and expands. Probably need to put a little less fluid in the pan.

Definitely not an unattended operation ...

 

[rswyan]

Spent most of the day tearing into the huge pile of rounds:

... and pulling out the bigger stuff and staging it for splitting tomorrow. The two rows on the right are ash, the stuff behind it is sycamore ... there's a few rounds of sycamore that are around 48" in diameter or better. And there's small pile of pine behind the sycamore that isn't visible:

The pine (in the foreground):

Red oak (in the foreground), some of which needs bucked ... and way in the back behind the pile of splits is another pile of smaller ash rounds:

A red oak log ... probably 12' long and 24" diameter. Need it cut in order to move it.

Another red oak log that's still on the pile ... this one is even longer and larger in diameter than the previous one:

 

[rswyan]

Got oil changed in the HF engine, lift table put back on, and hydraulics refilled ... figured I've got around 13 gallons in there.

Ran into a slight problem tho' ... first time I fired it up, I had fluid puking out of the filler/breather on the axle tank.

Plumbing loop is 2nd hydraulic tank ---> pump ---> valves, cylinders ---> filter ---> axle tank ---> back to 2nd tank

The 90 degree hose barb that connects on the "in" side of the 2nd tank creates a little restriction - it's a 1" hose barb ... but 3/4" male pipe thread. Think it was all Surplus Center had in a 90 degree 1" hose barb , back when I ordered it 10 years ago.

Even if it was 1" male pipe thread I think it would be a problem ... since it's only a gravity drain.

As a temporary measure I ran down to Autozone and grabbed an oil filler cap and put that on the filler/breather on the axle tank.

It didn't leak immediately but after I was using it for a while, it started a slow, steady drip, drip, drip ... it's usable for the time being - with a catch pan underneath - but it's going to have to be fixed for the long term. I did manage to get in a couple hours of splitting.

I'm guessing that the connection from the axle tank back to the 2nd tank will have to be at least 1 1/2" or 2" in order to not have the fluid back up ...

 

[yomax4]

Love those wood piles. The stuff consumes a good part of my life. I have all I can cut and drag home to last 50 years. I burn 12 cord every winter. ( outdoor wood boiler). I usually keep 30 cord on hand and rotate every fall. Great pics.

 

[CADplans]

I think the solution to the oil pumping out will be to seal one tank, and have a breather on one tank.

The vent needs to be at the highest point, why would two vents be needed?

 

[rswyan]

Love those wood piles. The stuff consumes a good part of my life.

If ya count building the splitter, mine too, it seems like.

I have all I can cut and drag home to last 50 years. I burn 12 cord every winter. (outdoor wood boiler).

Nice ... :thumbsup:

I use it to heat my shop ... and as a back up, if the gas furnace in the house ever goes out.

I usually keep 30 cord on hand and rotate every fall. Great pics.

Thanks.

I'll be posting a few more from today after dinner.

 

[rswyan]

I think the solution to the oil pumping out will be to seal one tank, and have a breather on one tank.

That may very well be ...

I'm going to try a 1" 90 hose bar that has 1" male pipe threads on it first tho' ...

The vent needs to be at the highest point, why would two vents be needed?

The highest point is the axle/crossmember tank ... the one that backs up.