Logsplitter 2.0

[TomSeller]

This is a very good way of removing rust. This link is of removing rust from an old tool, but the same thing can be done with larger items using non metallic cattle watering tank or kids plastic swimming pool. I would fasten the rebar on the perimeter without drilling holes if you want to use the tank later.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54ADeB6V1rQ&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Cleaning Up After Rust Removal Using Electrolysis - Robot Room

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NKZv14-K71g&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Remove as much loose rust as you can with a wire brush beforehand. And don't do this inside an enclosed area.

 

[rswyan]

Nice I too have been thinking about building a three point hook up splitter with its own engine, looking forward to seeing how you build yours keep us updated!

motoman,

In the frenzy that was yesterday, I missed your comment.

Logsplitter 1.0 was going to be a 3PH mount with gas engine ... Logsplitter 2.0 is not - it's going to have wheels and a ball hitch.

Major selling point in favor of the current plan is that it frees up the tractor (which I only have one of)

 

[rswyan]

arrow,

Rsy i have a 17 yr. old Northern product 16 ton splitter. It also uses its axle mounts as a hydraulic tank. (seems a bit larger in volume than yours).

Yeah ... 8 gallons is a little less than ideal (11 gpm pump)

It has a 6' long I-beam but I wish it were a bit longer. Not to split longer wood, but to man handle the thing a bit easier.

Yeah ... I really like the handles that LD put on his. I've got some 3/4 round stock that I can use to do similar.

Trimming the beam to final length will probably be toward the end of the project ... for a variety of reasons - balance being one of them. I want to keep the tongue/wedge end light enough that I can manhandle it if I have to.

I like to split my wood and stack it at the same time. This constitutes moving the splitter further down the line of course. I pick up one end and drag it up the line. If I had a bit more leverage with more weight hanging off the axle end, this would be a bit easier.

I'll have the engine hanging off the back if I can manage it ... as well as some of the cylinder. Current thinking is to have the pusher block just about over the axle when the cylinder is retracted.

Also I'm planning on making the height of the axle/hydraulic reservoir a comfortable sitting height ... so that the operator can sit and run the controls if a helper is available to work the log lift and table for re-splits. The height it's at in the picture is just about perfect for me.

Would also give a bit more leeway for a hitch ball on the axle end to be able to attach the splitter to the tractor at either end.

Good idea - maybe weld a 2" receiver on both ends and then just swap the coupler to the end one wants to use.

Just some fft incase you didn't want to cut your beam as short as you originally figured.

Good stuff ... keep 'em comin' ... :thumbsup:

If this will end up as a 3 pt, everything I just said becomes moot.

Nope - 3 pt is out of the picture at this point. I want it to be towable.

I also made a log table for mine whose base is made of wood. I slip it between the I-beam sections so it pulls on and off quite easily. It has a sheet metal top as well. The reason being was that sheet metal was easier to attach to the wooden base as it gave infinite screw in points to align itself to the wooden base. Have had it now for 25 cords w/o a break down.

Kewl ... :thumbsup:

 

[oldpilgrim]

I've had splitters with the wedge on the end of the beam and the wedge on the end of the ram. I much prefer the wedge on the ram as I don't like chasing the wood of the end of the splitter. Having a table on the end is just one more thing to have to stow and transport.

The bet of all worlds is a vertical splitter where you can sit down and split stuff. This requires the wedge on the ram, of course.

You are doing a very nice job. I'm envious of your skills. I can weld ok, but I won't win any awards for neatness.

 

[arrow]

I've had splitters with the wedge on the end of the beam and the wedge on the end of the ram. I much prefer the wedge on the ram as I don't like chasing the wood of the end of the splitter. Having a table on the end is just one more thing to have to stow and transport.

The bet of all worlds is a vertical splitter where you can sit down and split stuff. This requires the wedge on the ram, of course.

Isn't it funny how someone's preferences are justified by how they use their stuff. For instance: not in a million years would I have thought of "sitting down" to split wood. Of course I wouldn't because i chase the rounds gathered by the tractor all around the splitter and rarely have a helper. 2. Because i "split n stack" at the same time, I appreciate all the wood ending up at the same place at the end of the splitter so a orizontal spitter with it's wedge at the end fits me to a peg. 3. I have devised numerous ways to get that 200 -300 lb round up to the splitter as one eats an elephant one bite at a time. It was mostly at those times where I wish I had a vertical splitter. after that...not so much. Now that I have a lame left arm, maybe I need to rig up a 3 pt vertical myself using quik disconnects on my horizontal splitter as an attachment point to run the thing as i have no remotes on my present machine.

 

[LD1]

Any particular reason you went with solid sheet metal on your table ... rather than just doing a table grate like Timberwolf does ?

Just the material I alreadt had on hand. I didnt have a bunch of lengths of pipe. But had that 11ga sheet left over from skinning my plow and building the wings and didnt see any other use for it.

arrow,


Yeah ... I really like the handles that LD put on his. I've got some 3/4 round stock that I can use to do similar.

Trimming the beam to final length will probably be toward the end of the project ... for a variety of reasons - balance being one of them. I want to keep the tongue/wedge end light enough that I can manhandle it if I have to.


I'll have the engine hanging off the back if I can manage it ... as well as some of the cylinder. Current thinking is to have the pusher block just about over the axle when the cylinder is retracted.

The very last thing I did before painting was locating the beam to the axle. I see far too many homemade builds that have the axle in a position that just looks unbalnced as heck and tons of tongue weight. But also dont want too little tongue weight as to flip the splitter when a large round is placed on it. I placed 200# where a large piece of firewood would go, then set it to balance perfectly. That makes the splitter stable with large pieces of wood while splitting, but not too much tongue weight when moving my hand.

Also consider which end you will be towing from. Let your splitting style dictate that. Since I split and let wood drop into a pile, I tow from the "dummy end" of the splitter. If you frequently split then load directly onto a truck, I would tow from the business end. That way you can split and the pieces can go directly onto the truck.

I've had splitters with the wedge on the end of the beam and the wedge on the end of the ram. I much prefer the wedge on the ram as I don't like chasing the wood of the end of the splitter. Having a table on the end is just one more thing to have to stow and transport.

The bet of all worlds is a vertical splitter where you can sit down and split stuff. This requires the wedge on the ram, of course.

You are doing a very nice job. I'm envious of your skills. I can weld ok, but I won't win any awards for neatness.

Our other splitter is a horizontal/vertical huskee from TSC. Vertical is nice for big stuff. But not ideal for smaller stuff. Sitting down isnt as convenient as it sounds. Cause in just a few minutes, you run out of wood that is withing arms length, so are constantly getting up and down. So for the average size wood, say 8" up to 18" (or whatever you can handle comfortably), it is better to split horizontal IMO.

 

[oldpilgrim]

Isn't it funny how someone's preferences are justified by how they use their stuff. For instance: not in a million years would I have thought of "sitting down" to split wood. Of course I wouldn't because i chase the rounds gathered by the tractor all around the splitter and rarely have a helper. 2. Because i "split n stack" at the same time, I appreciate all the wood ending up at the same place at the end of the splitter so a horizontal splitter with it's wedge at the end fits me to a peg. 3. I have devised numerous ways to get that 200 -300 lb round up to the splitter as one eats an elephant one bite at a time. It was mostly at those times where I wish I had a vertical splitter. after that...not so much. Now that I have a lame left arm, maybe I need to rig up a 3 pt vertical myself using quik disconnects on my horizontal splitter as an attachment point to run the thing as i have no remotes on my present machine.

I cut my wood and place the rounds (push with the tractor bucket) next to where I want to stack the wood. I place the splitter in between the rounds and the pallets I stack on. I sit on the 5 gal bucket seat and take the rounds (roll them) from their pile to the splitter. I take the split pieces and fling them on the pallets. When the pile on the pallet gets big enough, I stack it right there.

I have very little moving off of the seat. If the supply of rounds get out of reach, I take the tractor and push the pile closer so I can reach them. I lift nothing.

If I have a 200-300 lb round, I just roll it to the splitter, turn it on it's butt and split it, without lifting it.

I would never want a 3pt splitter as I want the tractor available for use.

When you're nearing 70 years old, you want to bend and lift as little as possible.

 

[aczlan]

Our other splitter is a horizontal/vertical huskee from TSC. Vertical is nice for big stuff. But not ideal for smaller stuff. Sitting down isnt as convenient as it sounds. Cause in just a few minutes, you run out of wood that is withing arms length, so are constantly getting up and down. So for the average size wood, say 8" up to 18" (or whatever you can handle comfortably), it is better to split horizontal IMO.

I agree.
Growing up, we had large splitter with a fixed wedge and a log lift. We now have a vertical/horizontal one and (IMO) it is not as good.
Its easier to roll the rounds on their sides to the lift and then lift them than it is to try to work them under the splitter in the flat side and its easier to have a pile collect at the end of the splitter than have to catch and pile each piece as it comes off.

Aaron Z

 

[oldpilgrim]

I agree.
Growing up, we had large splitter with a fixed wedge and a log lift. We now have a vertical/horizontal one and (IMO) it is not as good.
Its easier to roll the rounds on their sides to the lift and then lift them than it is to try to work them under the splitter in the flat side and its easier to have a pile collect at the end of the splitter than have to catch and pile each piece as it comes off.

Aaron Z

I have a rack that bolts to the side of the splitter to catch the wood for multiple passes, if/when I use it horizontally. Its a Huskee splitter and the rack is an accessory.

 

[rswyan]

I've had splitters with the wedge on the end of the beam and the wedge on the end of the ram. I much prefer the wedge on the ram as I don't like chasing the wood of the end of the splitter. Having a table on the end is just one more thing to have to stow and transport.

I might see if I can concoct something where the table flips up for transport. Either that or make the hitch extend out far enough where it isn't in the way.

The bet of all worlds is a vertical splitter where you can sit down and split stuff. This requires the wedge on the ram, of course.

I've used both ... vertical and horizontal ... personally prefer horizontal myself ... although vertical can be very handy for big rounds.

What I'd really prefer is something that requires no bending over, crouching, etc. (ideally be able to split standing up) ... but we're talking about splitting wood and I know some of that is just unavoidable

You are doing a very nice job.

Thank you very much.

I'm envious of your skills. I can weld ok, but I won't win any awards for neatness.

LOL ... you and me both brother ...

 

[oldpilgrim]

Here's a pic of the rack that attaches to the rail. It works well in horizontal position but doesn't get in the way vertically.

You can see my blue pillow on the 5 gal bucket seat.

What I'd really prefer is something that requires no bending over, crouching, etc.

Sounds like you're talking about sitting.

 

[rswyan]

Just the material I alreadt had on hand. I didnt have a bunch of lengths of pipe. But had that 11ga sheet left over from skinning my plow and building the wings and didnt see any other use for it.

Makes sense ...

I dunno what I'll do ... I have a 4' x 7' sheet of 10 gauge ... but I have other plans for it (grass/leaf vacuum) ...

I'll probably just gather up the scrap metal here and take it down to my steel supplier and cash it in and use the coin from that to buy a couple of standard lengths of small diameter pipe and then use that.

The very last thing I did before painting was locating the beam to the axle. I see far too many homemade builds that have the axle in a position that just looks unbalnced as heck and tons of tongue weight. But also dont want too little tongue weight as to flip the splitter when a large round is placed on it. I placed 200# where a large piece of firewood would go, then set it to balance perfectly. That makes the splitter stable with large pieces of wood while splitting, but not too much tongue weight when moving my hand.

Good idea.

I have plenty to do before the beam really needs to be attached.

Also consider which end you will be towing from. Let your splitting style dictate that. Since I split and let wood drop into a pile, I tow from the "dummy end" of the splitter. If you frequently split then load directly onto a truck, I would tow from the business end. That way you can split and the pieces can go directly onto the truck.

Another good point ... :thumbsup:

I think what I'm going to do is pick up an 18" long 2" receiver tube, then split it in half making two, and weld one to each end ... that way I can use either as the situation dictates. Plus it will allow using either a ball coupler or an eyelet.

Most likely, the way it will go is that the wood when split will get loaded either into the loader bucket or into my dump cart ... less bending that way.

Our other splitter is a horizontal/vertical huskee from TSC. Vertical is nice for big stuff. But not ideal for smaller stuff. Sitting down isnt as convenient as it sounds. Cause in just a few minutes, you run out of wood that is withing arms length, so are constantly getting up and down. So for the average size wood, say 8" up to 18" (or whatever you can handle comfortably), it is better to split horizontal IMO.

Yeah ... I'd really prefer horizontal myself ... and having a log lift should make getting rounds up on the splitter alot easier.

I have a Prince LS logsplitter valve with detents in both directions for the ram I just need to come up with a valve with power beyond (for the log lift) ... for cheap ...

Initially, I'm going to be using the 4 x 24 cylinder off the dump cart for the ram, and the angle cylinder off the landscape rake for the log lift. The 4-way wedge will be slip-on ... at least initially, maybe permanently.

Still trying to decide what length of log to design for ...

The wood-burning furnace here at the house will take a 24" piece of stove wood ... but 20" to 22" is probably more ideal. The double barrel stove up in the shop will take something longer ... probably 28" max ... but 24" to 26" is probably better.

 

[rswyan]

Here's a pic of the rack that attaches to the rail. It works well in horizontal position but doesn't get in the way vertically.

You can seat my blue pillow on the 5 gal bucket seat.

A man after my own mind :thumbsup:

Sounds like you're talking about sitting.

Absolutely ... whenever, and wherever, I can ... as much as possible ...

After 50+ years of beating the crap out of my body it's starting to provide a little "feedback" that I might wanna go a little easier on it

 

[oldpilgrim]

But also dont want too little tongue weight as to flip the splitter when a large round is placed on it.

I leave it connected to the tractor, whichever one I'm using at the time. I usually don't even put down the front leg.

Notice the rounds close on one side and the pallets on the other. From the pile to the splitter to the pallet with only occasionally getting up to move the rounds closer.

I had the leg down here as I was just about to move the tractor to push a bunch of rounds closer from the main pile.

 

[arrow]

One of the problems I ran into when towing with the table attached was that there was not enough clearance between the splitter and the tractor wheel. Had to make an extension to the tongue

 

[ajmaxham]

I built my splitter at 35'' for a good working height for me. A large caster is bolted to the fold up jack so I can push it in and out of the shop.

 

[murphy1244]

I built my splitter at 35'' for a good working height for me. A large caster is bolted to the fold up jack so I can push it in and out of the shop.

View attachment 406345

That is the perfect height, No bending over at all. I want that log lift.

 

[motoman3b]

motoman,

In the frenzy that was yesterday, I missed your comment.

Logsplitter 1.0 was going to be a 3PH mount with gas engine ... Logsplitter 2.0 is not - it's going to have wheels and a ball hitch.

Major selling point in favor of the current plan is that it frees up the tractor (which I only have one of)

Well I was thinking of building one that could be both towable and a three point hook up, for one I hate trying to back up a splitter in tight areas so three point hookup would be nice in that aspect

 

[yomax4]

Well I was thinking of building one that could be both towable and a three point hook up, for one I hate trying to back up a splitter in tight areas so three point hookup would be nice in that aspect

I was thinking of the same thing. Adding a 3 point to the rear of my towable. My 3pt has the cyll on one side that could level the splitter on less than level ground. Currently I have to try to block up one wheel to level and it's a beast to try to do that. With the 3pt. I could lift the whole splitter off the ground.. Spring project..

 

[rswyan]

Well, after getting stiffed by our regular UPS driver twice on Friday and Monday, I finally have my Surplus Center order. I ended up have to drive over to the terminal (14 miles) and raise holy he11 and then they called him and arranged for me to meet him at a local business to get the package.

All because the guy wouldn't drive about 150' - 200' on my driveway (flat, level) ... 'cause it had maybe an inch or two of snow on it. He didn't even have to bring it all they way down to the house - just to the shop - where my van was parked.

So I now have the stub axles, the hubs, a riser for the filler/vent, the 2" NPT pipe flange for the suction strainer, a 300 psi gauge for the filter on the return line, and some fittings.

Ran into a little situation the night before last: had some creosote/debris fall down into the 90 elbow that connects the chimney to the double-barrel wood stove in the shop, almost plugging it ... which prevented me from really getting a fire going. So I spent some of yesterday cleaning out the stove/chimney.

Ultimately ends up being a good thing as it needed it (overdue) and allowed me to discover that the 90 elbow really needed to be replaced, as it was almost rusted out ... up inside the pipe that it connected to.

Also spent some time on finishing the new backstop for the pallet forks so I can get them put back together and get them out of the shop - as they're just one more thing that's taking up space in an already cramped area.

Hopefully make some good progress on the splitter today.

I did manage to get a little done on the splitter yesterday - cleaned up the log rest which was partially painted/primered ... and rusted wherever it wasn't. Also did similar for the push block.

Will probably have to make a trip to the LWS for another bottle of 75/25 ... probably hit Harbor Freight for that receiver tube while I'm at it.