Log splitter rehab...

[mrcaptainbob]

Inherited a rather old homebuilt log splitter. It has some strange Sperry Vickers controls on it and a LOT of plumbing. I'd like to replace it all with the simpler detent type valves available today. Looking at the NT catalog I can see many types. How do I choose which is appropriate? I see 'open center', 4 way control, 3 way control, open-spool, 2-way detent (Which sounds like what I'd like). Where can I get definitions of these terms? Also, not knowing what the pump capacity is, how might I figure it's volume and pressure?

 

[Defective]

I'm sure one of the experts will come along shortly, but I CAN start you off...

You do want a two-way valve.

You do NOT want a 2-way detent. The detent keeps the valve open. This is definitely good on the return stroke and a serious mistake on the forward stroke. If you can take your hand off the valve and the cylinder keeps moving forward, you can easily get hurt.

Many places sell "log splitter" valves that have a detent in the return position.

Here's a very good example

 

[hockeyhead]

I have two splitters, one homemade but not by me. Try the arborist.com, they have a complete section of their forum on splitters. These guys build some very unique splitters with great pride, very helpful for any splitter problems, and can help idenify the pump, get numbers, what size cylinder is on it? Most splitters run between 2000 and 2500psi, Max tonnage is based on the cylinder ( radius, squared, X pie X pressure)
large cylinder and a small volume pump = slow cycle time, not less tonnage.
replacing components and still having a matched set of conpontents is what these guys are good at.

How big is the engine?

 

[SkunkWerX]

The valve linked in Defective's answer is probably on 90% of the splitters sold.
That's the one I have on mine. As he noted, it allows for hands-free retraction, but you MUST hold the lever for the Power stroke.

Safety Note: The amount of pressure it takes to "kick off" the auto-return is adjustable. Even if it is adjusted correctly, an arm or hand could be smashed seriously if caught in a pinch point while retracting. I have mine set so the least bit of back pressure kicks it to neutral, aka: no movement.

I would suggest showing a picture or make a diagram showing "a LOT of plumbing" before we can tell you , definitively, what you may need.

A photo showing the Pump, hydraulic lines and existing valve would probably be best.

I was using my splitter yesterday and noticed my suction hose that connects to the reservior is looking pretty ratty, I think I'll change it and replace the fluid and filter while I am at it.
I mention this, because you will probably want to do a visual inspection and consider the same filter/fluid change.

.

 

[kennyd]

Yes, the one linked in Defective's post is what you want...

 

[billbill1]

Surplus Center has some good prices on this kind of stuff when you find out for sure what you want. They sell lots of Prince valves. Check out Ebay too, good deals pop up there from time to time.

 

[mrcaptainbob]

You guys are good! Thanks for all the help. That link to Northern is the same one I was looking at in the catalog. Why I was entertaining the double detent is what was cautioned about the detent return. If it hurts going, it can hurt coming. But then, I remember how some oak logs popped sideways when helping the neighbor a couple years. Not a good idea to stand beside this stuff. Would give a real headache while leaning over for the next one and the one on the blade pops sideways. So....single detent it is. Thanks for the cautions on that. Will check out Arborist site and will also post pics of this splitter in the next few days.
Thanks again for the help.

 

[Deerlope]

Inherited a rather old homebuilt log splitter. It has some strange Sperry Vickers controls on it and a LOT of plumbing. I'd like to replace it all with the simpler detent type valves available today. Looking at the NT catalog I can see many types. How do I choose which is appropriate? I see 'open center', 4 way control, 3 way control, open-spool, 2-way detent (Which sounds like what I'd like). Where can I get definitions of these terms? Also, not knowing what the pump capacity is, how might I figure it's volume and pressure?

Try Burden Sales Surplus Center - Hydraulics, Engines, Electrical and More they got it spelled out for you in their catlog.
Item # 9-1262 is a Prince log splitter valve detented on the return stroke. I'm telling you that is cpmpany has got it all.

 

[Wayne County Hose]

I'm actually going to replace the valve on my splitter with a 2 way detent. It is much safer than having my wife run the valve. If the wedge hits your hand, no way the detent will kick out until your hand is crushed. As a general rule, especially with my baby's momma running the valve, I never put my hand between the wedge and wood anyway.

Installing a 2 way detent doesn't mean that it will run thru the wood until the cylinder bottoms out. Sometimes it may, depending on what pressure the detent kicks out and how much pressure it takes to split the wood. I just think it would be nice to not have to sit there and wait for the wedge to come up to the wood. With a 2 way detent, I can set it to come to the wood and kick out and wait for me to manually move the valve. I can get other wood ready or do something else while the wedge comes to the wood. For me, to watch the wedge come forward is like watching dough rise.

 

[Deerlope]

For me that would be very unsafe. I have not seen very many made that way.

 

[RonMar]

People still crush their fingers/hands even without a detent on the splitting stroke, so I don't see how it would really be that much more of a safety hazard. It might even be safer as you, position the wood, set the valve and while it closes down on the wood, you step away to get the next piece ready. Most injuries are from inattention to details of operation. If you are prone to this, that is what will eventually get you regardless of how the equipment is configured...

 

[Defective]

With your hand off the valve, you are not ready to deal with problems. I have split a lot of wood with knots and seen it go where ever it pleases. With my hand on the valve, I tend to reverse the ram at the first sign of trouble. I'll stick to my single detent.

 

[blacksmith]

For a pump you want a two stage pump the first stage gives you a large volume of oil with little pressure(fast travel), when it hits a resistance(the wood) it shifts to a low volume and high pressure. With the two stage you save time on the forward and return stroke. When I built my own splitter I used a return detent valve and a two stage pump. Worked for me. I bought my equipment from Northern.

 

[ovrszd]

I built mine with a detent on the return side. My splitter is fast enough I'm not waiting for the cylinder to engage the log. So I don't see a need for a detent on the push side. I don't necessarily fear it. Just don't see a need.

My splitter has a 24" stroke. I cut my wood at a minimum of 18". The cylinder will do a complete stroke in 4 seconds. So in theory, I'm only waiting a second or so for the cylinder to contact the wood. I'm slow enough I couldn't accomplish much in a second of free time anyway.

 

[shaley]

Wayne County Hose. Maybe you suffer from "small wedge syndrome" if you feel the need for a double detent valve. I'd try a modified wedge before a double detent valve. I cut all my wood the same length and installed a wedge with a faster taper. Oak wood splits in about 3" of travel and then I hit the retract so it only takes about 3-1/2" of stroke for a cycle.
The screen name "Lefty" may still be available

 

[RonMar]

With your hand off the valve, you are not ready to deal with problems. I have split a lot of wood with knots and seen it go where ever it pleases. With my hand on the valve, I tend to reverse the ram at the first sign of trouble. I'll stick to my single detent.

I think you misunderstood, you don't split with the double detent, the wedge travels till it contacts the wood then kicks out at the first backpressure. You still have to manually re-apply the lever/control the valve to split the piece of wood just like with a single detent valve.

 

[Defective]

Ah...

OK...

Still don't like the idea too much. I'd hate it if something happened to stop it from kicking off.

All my splitters have had two-speed pumps and most have had adjustable backstops. Just seems like a bad idea to let the ram work on its own in the forward direction.

 

[xlr82v2]

Wayne County Hose,

So what are you going to do with your free hand while you're waiting those agonizing seconds for the wedge to come up to the log? What better things does it have to do? It can't be that "hard" to hold the lever for that little bit... Or is it just a little bit of laziness?

A detent on the push stroke is suicidal at worst and foolhardy at best. Would you trust your healthy hands to the faith in that detent kicking out at the "proper" time?

Come on man, get your head on straight. I know that you're smarter than this, at least I hope you are... maybe not?

Sorry to be so harsh, but sometimes it takes a 2x4 between the eyes to get the mule's attention...

In my life, I've split a LOT of wood with a splitter, and I've pinched my fingers once with my splitter... and to this day I don't know exactly how it happened or why I had my fingers back there. I know for sure it scared the **** out of me. And, I thank God that I had the presence of mind to let go of that lever, and THANK GOD it didn't have a detent. Don't believe for a second that you'll NEVER have your fingers in the wrong place... it happens, believe me. And it only takes one time. I got lucky. If you put that valve on your splitter, I guarantee that you won't think fast enough to kick that thing out of detent before your fingers are smashed or severed.

Do the math... even if you can get that detent to kick out at as low as 100psi, with a 4" cylinder that's about 1256 pounds of force that your fingers might have to stop. I don't know about yours, but mine wouldn't be able to do it without letting out some red juice I'm sure.

And, I'm pretty sure that when you yell, your wife will let go of that lever RIGHT NOW. That detent doesn't hear so well... you'll have to yell pretty loud.

Don't do it, OK?

 

[mrcaptainbob]

Lots of great info from you guys. Have a better understanding of the foward detent use now. Thanks for that. As for the Arbor.com site, it started asking for credit card info as if I want to purchase stuff. Opted out of it all.
Here's some pics of that splitter. Also on display is the helper "Popeye".
It's short cylinder, I think 18". Would prefer 20, but this'll work. I believe the side bolts are 1/2". Might that be an indicator of a higher PSI rating? I can't find any markings on the cylinder. The engine will soon be swapped out for a fresh rebuilt Wisconsin. This B&S is really tired as it goes through a couple qts in a half hour. But then, there's no problem with bugs in the area either!

 

[xlr82v2]

CaptainBob,

Surely that isn't copper tubing that is being used for the hydraulic lines, is it?