log splitter H or I beam question

   / log splitter H or I beam question #1  

trialsguy

Silver Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2006
Messages
118
Location
Kansas City Mo. area
Tractor
YM226D
I have 2 different beams that I want to make a log splitter rail out of, tell me which one would be the stronger

first is a 6x6x1/4 meaning it is 6" wide on the flats and the middle riser is 6" tall but its only a 1/4 thick

or a 4"x 6 1/2"x 3/8" thick this may be my choice because it is 6' long but its not as wide on the flats which I guess wouldnt be that big of a deal I could make a wider splitting table where the log lays to split.
I am not sure how much pump pressure I will have, its on a 18 horse ingersol tractor but I plan on using a 4" ram that is 20"

Are either of these going to be heavy enough?

Thanks
 
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   / log splitter H or I beam question #2  
The ultimate strength of the beam might not be as important as its stiffness; how much it deflects under load. Look for online beam calculators.

If you don't feel like playing engineer, then just look at a splitter with a simlar sized pump and ram to see what they do.
 
   / log splitter H or I beam question #4  
Over the length of the typical log splitter, I doubt it will make much difference which one you use, in terms of stiffness/deflection, as long as you mount the "dead" end of your cylinder in a clevis-which you probably had planned anyway.

The wider flange would give you greater flexibility in your mounting arrangement. You didn't say whether your cylinder has a welded cross tube, a single or double clevis or whatever- if it has a double clevis then mounting the single clevis to the 4" flange would be a simple deal.

Anyway, I'm sitting here looking at my steel shapes chart and I can see your 6x6x1/4 - (called a W6 x 15#). What I'm not seeing is the 4x6 1/2 x3/8. I can see a
4 x 6 1/4x3/8 (W6 x 16#), which actually measures 3/8 in the flange and 1/4 in the web.

I would imagine that building an effective slipper pad for the "live" end of the cylinder would be easier with the 6" flange, so that's what I'd go with. If there were any concerns about the beam bending, it could be stiffened along the upper flange.
I doubt it will be an issue if your cylinder only has a 20" stroke.
 
   / log splitter H or I beam question #5  
Trailsguy, How about going with the heavier 3/8" thick beam and then weld on a piece of 3/8" or 1/2" x 6" flat bar or plate to the top flange so you have a wider flange for the push plate to slide on? That's how I built mine cause that's what was laying around at the time.
 
   / log splitter H or I beam question #6  
I have to say that the quality of advice one can get here is awesome..........

it really is.
 
   / log splitter H or I beam question
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Boy Dead Horse you are not kidding on the quality of advice, Thank you guys for the help.

couple things I am not sure of the terminology like double clevis. Is this where the ram attaches or say the eyelet? My cylinder has two metal flanges where it would straddle a single metal anchor point

It also has four long bolts the length of the cylinder that bolts it together.

I will check the scrap piles to see if I can find a flat plate to use on the top. I like that idea since the I Beam is actually the length that I am thinking of.

Not sure what cross welded means
 
   / log splitter H or I beam question #8  
I used an "I" beam for my splitter with a 4" diameter 24" long ram, mostly because that is what I had. No problems with stiffness even at maximum pressure. Maximum is when I can hear it start to bypass, which is rare enough with the wood I am usually splitting. Most of the time it walks through whatever blocks I set on it. Mine is powered by the tractor hydraulics. The spool I used bypasses at 2000 psi which is a bit less than the tractor can deliver.
 
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   / log splitter H or I beam question #9  
Hi! I make a wood splitter. I use 4x4 in. H beam On very hard wood the H beam bend or flex a little bit so more high beam is better as 4x6 in. I use 5/8 5grade bolts for improve later. My edge cutter work very well.I join some picts. Good luck ! Oldmech
 

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   / log splitter H or I beam question #10  
Cross welded simply means that the cylinder has a sleeve or bushing welded perpendicular to the centerline. A single clevis (or eyelet) would need to be welded on each side, and the pin would be inserted through both clevises and the sleeve.

What you described having on your cylinder is a double clevis.
 

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