Log hauler built from running gear

blupen · Apr 30, 2012

I'm looking at running gear to make a log hauler. I don't want to go to big as I will load it to the max when given the opportunity. I will pull with a JD4500, apprx 40 hp, tractor and am concerned with the weight pushing the tractor around. I haul firewood from neighbors property and like to skid full length and store for a season before I cut/split. The neighbor just put shale on some of his roads and I don't want to mess them up by skidding. I have a fel and chains/log tongs to load logs. I am looking for different ideas on side bolsters and any experience someone might have. Thanks!

Groo · Apr 30, 2012

I'd build a wheeled drey (sp?) to be very tongue heavy so the tractor's brakes will come into play.

I'm guessing the 3 point can lift over a ton, use that strength. don't build it like a car trailer.

blupen · Apr 30, 2012

Thanks for the advice. I am not sure what a drey is but I agree the tongue weight is important. The problem is I need to unhook the wagon to load it with the loader on the tow tractor.

Rio_Grande · Apr 30, 2012

When we skid logs out I built a logging arch for my 3 point. Lower it down on the log and I had chain hooks welded on each side to chain to. Pick it up and go. If the tractor starts to loose the tug of war downhill, drop the 3 point and the log will dig in. Kinda like emergency brakes!

Sounds like maybee you dont want to skid, in that instance what about the same set up on the tractor then build a 2 wheel dolly for the back of the log, set it up on the dolly chain it down and then pick up with the 3 point. You would have to figure out a way to make it track properly though. Kinda lick a car going backwards the tires automaticly center, maybee something like that?

Robert_in_NY · Apr 30, 2012

Could you set up a trailer brake and brake controller on the wagon running gear? I'm sure there would be a way but I am not positive how or the cost but it would be a nice feature if your dealing with hills. Then you could use a standard running gear, weld up the supports and bolsters (make the bolsters removable if you need to) and still have the ease of hooking/unhooking the wagon without needing to carry blocks for jacking it up. Also, if your going to hook/ unhook often find a running gear with an extendable tounge. Then you just need to get close and hook up, back up till the tounge latches and drive away.

Groo · Apr 30, 2012

blupen said:
Thanks for the advice. I am not sure what a drey is but I agree the tongue weight is important. The problem is I need to unhook the wagon to load it with the loader on the tow tractor.

Dray dray - definition and meaning
Dad has 2 he got from the son of an old school lumber guy. One uses runners, the other uses a heavy truck front axle welded to the frame and welded up so it cant turn. Either one fully loaded is a touch much for the little Kubota (a 23hp one). We generally use a dozer or a 1 ton 4x4 to move the drays once they are loaded. The one that uses 4" pipes for runners gets used more since we can load more on it (the floor is lower and its a bit wider since the other one is between the tires) and don't have to work around the tires. I suggested wheels since you are concerned about damaging the road, but to be honest, the runners aren't that harsh on the roads since they weight is spread out over the whole length. we just drag that one with a chain. That is a problem going down hill in the winter though.

Unhooking and hooking shouldn't be a problem with a wheeled one. Put a "foot" on the bottom of the tongue (or just set it on a log), so you can drop the 2 point bar below the tongue. Then after hooking it up, you just pick it up and drive off.

GrizzyDan · May 1, 2012

Agreed, just weld in the reciever a bit higher on the tongue of the trailer, or install a foot, this makes for easy hook up.. just back up to it, line it up, raise your 3ph and clamp it down no lifting necessary. Maybe a foot with a spike below a pad so you can drop it just about anywhere and not have to worry about blocking the tires, the spike will anchor it while a wide pad won't let it sink down below what your 3ph can grab it with. Just a thought.

I love how this guy has his trailer setup.. 2-3 tube verticals per side and you can load and unload with ease with forks. And that grapple.. /drool

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B8Q_nXfjzW8]My home made log loader Video # 2 - YouTube[/ame]

Groo · May 1, 2012

we use 4 small logs for the sides. we can almost always pull one and usually pull the second to roll the logs off. If we have to cut one off, no big deal either. just make another one from a stick too small for lumber. sometimes I just tip the runnered one over into the pile.

crazyal · May 1, 2012

You could get yourself some mobile home axles and if your tractor has brake lights it would be easy to set up a brake controller. You just need to find somewhere to protect it from the weather. Parts would be cheap.

muddstopper · May 1, 2012

We used to skid pretty big logs with a farm tractorI cant remember the log ever pushing the tractor off a steep hill, but of course going down hill was usually when we opened the throttle and let her rip. I have pulled heavy trailers with a 4610su ford and I can tell you it aint no fun going down even a slight grade with no brakes on the trailer. It aint going to stop until the ground levels out or you hit something. You can mount a hydraulic surge controller on the trailer tounge and 12v from the tractor to supply electric trailer brakes. the surge controler will activate the electric brakes as soon as it detects the trailer pushing the tractor. If your tractor has brake lights, you can hook into them with an electric brake controller. I would do one way or the other, but if you have any steep grades to drag your loaded trailer on, your only asking for trouble if you dont put some kind of braking system on the tractor.

blupen · May 1, 2012

I like alot of the ideas here. I agree I will have problems without brakes and tongue weight. I am leaning towards finding a old camper and tearing it down, welding a set of side bolsters, a foot under the front with spike and using my quick tach for hook up.
In the perfect world I would build one like the picker in the you tube video

Groo · May 1, 2012

blupen said:
I like alot of the ideas here. I agree I will have problems without brakes and tongue weight. I am leaning towards finding a old camper and tearing it down, welding a set of side bolsters, a foot under the front with spike and using my quick tach for hook up.
In the perfect world I would build one like the picker in the you tube video

that sounds WAY to weak to work for long. It could probably only handle 1 decent sized log.

GrizzyDan · May 2, 2012

I'm going the same route for a stake side dump bed. I've turned to scrapping on the side and have 3 rv trailers coming, 2 tore apart already, one with 5" tall Ibeam that was only 1/8" thick.. definitely too weak but the axles are 3500 a piece. The other trailer has 1/4" channel that should work out nicely once braced for the lower half of the trailer. The dump deck will be 1/4" ibeam out of a mobile home. Just lookin for 2' sides, 1 4' ram with a 12v pump. Not looking to haul equipment or stack it sky high with logs, just 1-2 cords of firewood and the occasional log or 4.. the largest log my friend will mill weighs in at roughly 1k lbs, I just can't seem to get my hands on material of any decent thickness and refuse to buy retail. Cheaper to buy a professionally built trailer in the long run.

Best of luck.

blupen · May 3, 2012

Thanks GrizzyDan, this is a project I've been trying to get to fo a couple years and with the new road it pushes it to the top of the list.
As for building one like the video attachment I was referring to putting a picker on it, not necessarily a small setup like that one. My wife always says I overbuild and she and I are happy with that fact.
A guy I was working with a couple weeks ago told me about some ibeams in 10-20the feet sections a guy would sell me for scrap price but I haven't been able to find time to look him up. I am always suspect of "deals" guys tell you about but it sounds worth a 25minuteguy drive to look at them.
When I find what I think will work I'll post some pics and seek opinions on what I am doing wrong.:thumbsup:

jimmysisson · May 3, 2012

My solution to the braking problem is some "stakes" I carry to hold the tongue up when I'm loading logs. The stakes are 4x4 pressure treated pine with steel caps on the bottom (so they don't split, or wear too much). I can set how high they sit in the sleeves on the triangle.
I pull the trailer with a clevis hitch on the back of my winch. So, if the diesel won't hold the load back, I can lower the 3-point and let the stakes dig into the ground. My hills aren't too steep but are in a few places. That's the best thing about a diesel tractor in my opinion- hill braking.
I've never had to drop the tongue, and really aren't sure it would work, but assume it will help. I know the winch can ride up, but the trailer is loaded biased toward the front so the tongue is pretty heavy.
Jim

crazyal · May 4, 2012

Give a couple of mobile home dealers a call. You would be surprised what they have lots of extras of. Last time I checked around here they were getting $100 for an axle with springs and $25 for a tire/ wheel. I've also seen the tongues they use to tow them for sale.

hr3 · May 4, 2012

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4JwHQ0PbAU]PTO driven trailer Rimbo Sweden 2009 - YouTube[/ame]I'v seen on like this a long time ago.. With the trailer axels being driven the trailer axels help hold you back going down hill... Best with a gear drive probibly...

GrizzyDan · May 4, 2012

I think I'm in love.. I've always loved anything that resembles a unimog. I was wondering what I was going to do with the spare axle after bobbing my duece.. and now I know.. :thumbsup: