Loading tires

[MedicZman]

I am looking for information on loading tires with ballast. Particularly the types of ballast and how they can affect the rims, tires, valve stems, and environment. I know that Calcium will eat the rims and must only be used in tubed tires. I have heard that windshield washer fluid and/or antifreeze can be used. Do they have any negative effect on the items that I listed? I have read good things about Rim Guard. It is a bit pricey for my needs and I would like to do the loading myself. I have a 1949 Ford 8N that I basically use for plowing snow in the winter and mowing fields in the summer. I am trying to find a balance between the two. Namely enough weight the stop me from sliding all over the place in winter and not too much that I will get swamped in the wet fields in the late spring. Any information would be greatly appreciated.

 

[LBrown59]

I am looking for information on loading tires with ballast. Particularly the types of ballast and how they can affect the rims, tires, valve stems, and environment. I know that Calcium will eat the rims and must only be used in tubed tires. I have heard that windshield washer fluid and/or antifreeze can be used. Do they have any negative effect on the items that I listed? I have read good things about Rim Guard. It is a bit pricey for my needs and I would like to do the loading myself. I have a 1949 Ford 8N that I basically use for plowing snow in the winter and mowing fields in the summer. I am trying to find a balance between the two.
Namely enough weight the stop me from sliding all over the place in winter and not too much that I will get swamped in the wet fields in the late spring.
Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Going back and forth between these 2 it looks like you need weight that you can add/remove as need rather than a permanent weight like filled tires.

 

[LBrown59]

TractorByNet.com - Search Results

 

[radioman]

try rimgaurd. I have rimgaurd in mine. no tubes needed, rimgaurd acts as a protectant to metal and wont hurt crops/lawns if you have a punture in your tire. I have rimgaurd in mine since fall and time will tell how well I like it, but so far its all positive experience.

 

[ctown75]

My buddy has same year tractor as you and uses it for the same purposes, he has removable wheel weights for that reason. they aren't easy to handle as they weigh about 150lbs each, but you can put them on in winter, off in summer. His tractor still sinks in mud and still spins on hard packed snow, but they definitely help.

 

[xlr82v2]

I would definitely recommend the Rim Guard. My 8N is loaded with CaCl, and the rims show it. Our ground gets pretty soft here in the spring time, but I think you're better off with the weight even when it's soft, ESPECIALLY when it's soft... it helps the lugs bite in and not slip/spin.

If you've got 12.4-28 tires on your 8N, you'll add about 730 pounds IIRC with a 75% fill with the RimGuard.

I loaded the rears of my 3525 with RimGuard last Spring, and it made a huge difference doing loader work on softer ground... much better traction. Your 8N will gain the same benefits, even though you probably don't have a loader on it.

 

[ctown75]

I agree that once you're stuck it's better to have the weight, but the goal is to not get stuck. The lighter tractor is less likely to sink, rut, and get stuck.

 

[xlr82v2]

...... The lighter tractor is less likely to sink, rut, and get stuck.

I totally disagree, especially with a 2WD tractor. Let's look at his 8N, for example.

Remember, the front wheels do nothing but steer and carry the front of the tractor. So, your fronts are going to sink anyway, regardless of whether or not you ballast the rears.

If you've already made the mistake of going too far into the muck to where your front end is sinking, I definitely would rather have the loaded rears to help me get enough traction to get through/out of that pickle. With unloaded tires, you won't get as much traction because the tires will have more of a tendency to "float" on the muck and just spin. If you let it spin, then the tires just dig holes, and you're done. Where's the chain and another tractor?

What we need to keep in mind is that the practice of ballasting the tractor is not intended to enhance the "mud-ability" of a tractor, but to reduce wheel slip to more optimum levels. Wheel slip especially is a problem on the compact utility tractors, where they generally have much higher horsepower to weight ratios compared to full size ag tractors.

If the ground is soft enough that you're leaving ruts, you probably shouldn't be there in the first place. But, if you find yourself there, I'd rather have the weight on the tractor to help the tires bite in and get through rather than just spinning on top.

With my 3525, I could tell little difference on how much the rears sank into the ground when mowing my yard in the spring when the ground was rather soft. But I COULD tell that they slipped less and did less damage in the turns after ballasting.

I highly recommend loading the rear tires.

 

[ctown75]

I still disagree with you but we are trying to prove points based on a different scenarios. I won't tell you that you are wrong, because whatever works best for you is best for you, and I'm okay with that. If you mow swamp lands, yeah you should probably load the tires, but at the same time you probably ought to invest in a 4wd tractor. I don't mow swamps. I mow a field that has poor drainage and when it rains a lot holds some water. When I was mowing with my old allis, it did better with out rear wheel weights than with. Different tractor, different yard. I still think the best bet is to keep the rig as light as possible to prevent rutting because if you're not digging into the mud you don't have to dig out of it. Just take a little weight off the mower deck using the 3pt to help take weight off the front of the tractor, you're gravy train. That also helps transfer weight to the rear wheels.

 

[radioman]

lifting a bush hog to transfer weight to rear wheels is same as loaded tires. BUT- what if you dont have it connected ? then what ?

I think loaded tires helps more then it makes it worse. HMM, meaning you have better then 50 % chance using loaded tractor in different scenerios then trying to be light as possible. Well , I dont know about you, but I'll take those odds.

I have the same exact issue of a poorly drained lawn on one side of house and the loaded tires seemed to help and i really dont see much of a difference in creating new ruts. just my 2 cents.

 

[ctown75]

It has the same effect as loading the rear tires but without adding extra weight to the rig.

Personally, I just don't mow if I think my tractor is gonna get stuck.

It's been a few years since I've mowed with that allis, But I know the mower I'm on now is at least 2500 lbs lighter(54" cut lawn tractor), and it never gets stuck or leaves ruts, even when the ground is saturated enough to leave mud trails where I've mown- so you can't say lighter isn't better. I'm not a scientist, or mathematician(or an english teacher so lay off the spelling LOL) I just do what works for me. I'm not trying to tell anybody they are wrong, because what it boils down to is that it's his/your tractor on his/your property, so whatever works best is what you/he need to do. I was just trying to offer up some advice

 

[LBrown59]

Personally, I just don't mow if I think my tractor is gonna get stuck.

That's the key.

 

[Conservation]

I am pondering what to do about weight also. I have larger turfs on now, and even with chains on my 4wd JD 1050, it pushes sideways real easy in the snow using the rear blade angled. Truefully it just about makes it useless in the snow. I am getting some R1 tires for the back of the proper diameter, which will help I'm sure. But I would like to add a bunch of weight in the winter. I will be switching tires twice a year, and don't want to kill myself with filled tires. JD actually wants my first born and also his first born for wheel weights that onlyadd about 220#'s to the tractor. ($1300!) I am scoping auctions in the spring to look for old weights I can adapt. I have a bunch of lead pigs, and thought about having a circular plate cut which I could bolt pigs to. It would be awkward and take forever to install and remove. I can't use a weight box on the three point since I use the rear blade for snow.
My theory on tractiion is that you need penetration in the snow, and floatation if you don't want to tear things up. Mud depends on the soil and type of work being done. If you can get away with staying on top with turfs, great. If you need traction, you just have to dig in.

 

[ctown75]

I have turf tires on my MT160. They are relatively useless you're mowing or something similar. They are huge too- 35-15-15. Very wide. not much good when you need to grab anything, but they will definitely float! Pretty sure that thing would tread water with those things on there

 

[Conservation]

I hear ya! Mine are 42 or 44's. Won't' tip over though!
Anyone with some innovative ways to add weight to the rear without creating a twice a year hazzard when changing tires?

 

[Gary Fowler]

Let me jump in with another scenario. Any one who has ever gotten stuck in the mud with a truck will know that if you want to get out, without a chain and another vehicle, you put some weight in the back usually by having some friend stand on the bumper. Just spinning your wheel without the extra weight digs holes. Add a few hundred pounds of weight and you can pull right on through and the ruts are no deeper than the spinning tires put to start with. I am definitely in favor of loading the tires on all tractors including the front for extra traction on the rear. If you load the front tires also that weight will also transfer to the drive tires of a 2 WD tractor. The rear tires when loaded and pulling a load like a disc will tend to pull the front end up. When it does this the extra weight in the loaded front tires will transfer to the rear and add more traction. Loaded front tires will give you some stability on hills also contrary to what some folks here have stated. They think the front end swivels to an unlimited amount and thus the tractor will roll before it takes any of the weight. On any wide front end tractor the front axle will only move about 4 inches at the pivot point before it bottoms out on the frame. I have seen countless tractors traveling down the road with one rim removed because of a flat. YOU can get home on one tire this way.

 

[ctown75]

And as always there is a safe way of doing things and alternatively the above way ^^^^^ of doing things. I still argue that lighter in the begining for mowing is the best alternative.(kinda like prevention is the best medicine) If you're stuck yeah you want the weight. But I don't wanna get stuck. Unless you've cheater slicks on the rear of your 9n you're not just gonna free spin when the goin gets tough. I live 1/4 mi from the second largest farmer in the county on 2000 hay acres alone....His mechanic told me they have 12 AC d17s on the books alone on hay, and they are just running rakes and tedders. he has additional tractors on balers, mowers, and bigger ones yet on his other crops. Also about a mile from the farmer's co-op where almost everyone local takes their grain, and I live on the only state route leading there, never ONCE have I seen even ONE of the literally 'countless' tractors that pass my house on a single front wheel, unless it was designed that way of course. Maybe I'm not paying enough attention

 

[shakin]

i run chains on my 43" r-4's works like a skidder in the snow, i'll find out this summer down back never had the chains on in warm weather, probably wont want them but if it is muddy and i really need to go there, i'll deal with some ruts to avoid getting stuck.

 

[Diamondpilot]

We use WW Fluid with good results. Got the tool to put it in at Napa for $20. Do not waste your money on the TSC one. Easy to do with a bucket and some gravity. Fill 75%.

Chris

 

[Gary Fowler]

The comment about running on one wheel was not made to suggest that it was safe or advisable, only that it was possible and to let it be known that the front axle has a limited range of swivel thus by loading your front tires, you contribute to the stability of the overall machine and the overall traction.
By the way, most real farmers are ingenious at figuring out how to do something with nothing and do it by themselves. This was especially true before the advent of 2 way radios and mobile telephones where you can call up for assistance from the local tire repair place and they will come fix your flat for you. When you are 10 miles from help and no way to call, necessity turns to invention using the tools at hand.

Back to the original topic: If you dont want to get stuck, you better have some weight on your side. Unless you are swimming or in a boat, the more weight you have the better your traction and the less your tires spin. To cross soft ground, you have two choices, have enough weight to have good traction or go fast enough across it that your equipment doesnt sink. Since most tractors wont attain that kind of speed, then your only choice is the additional weight.