Loader Loader valve control handle

Gregster613 · Oct 5, 2015

Hi fellow TYM'rs, I was doing quite a bit of loader work this weekend, and over the last few months, I've noticed that my controls are becoming sluggish, slow, stiff - even after plenty of warm up - and sometimes they continue to move slight amounts after the stick is stopped (particularly when I curl down).

I have removed the rubber boot, squirted lube in all over the mechanism, but don't know how to actually get it into the cables running to the valve assembly itself. This is where I suspect the drag to located. In the past I have had my loader not want to go into or out of float and I have removed the valve end-cap to free up and put in fresh grease. I have zero problems with the float mechanism now; so I assume it's working correctly.

Have any of you had problems with your handle/cables binding up?? If so, what have you done to free it all up? It's not frozen solid, just stiff, sluggish, difficult to finely maneuver the bucket/loader.
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I would sure appreciate some suggestions. Thanks, Greg

Bud Soda · Oct 5, 2015

Have the same problem for a few years now. Worse when it's cold outside. Problem is rust in the cables I do believe. My tractor sits outside in wet weather a lot. DB blaster helps. I will probably get around to replacing the cable assy one of these days.

Gregster613 · Oct 5, 2015

Hi Bud, Thanks for the input; yes it's more noticeable when it gets colder. Mine sits inside however, so I hadn't really thought about rust. I have power-washed it several times though. Mostly when it was still new and I wanted to keep it all clean; I've since realized that a dirty tractor is a working tractor. Ha!
I wondered about getting some type of spray lube into those cables, just haven't figured out a way to do it. I'm reassured insomuch as at least it isn't just mine that's acting sluggish.
Thanks, Greg

/pine · Oct 5, 2015

Have you removed the caps on the bottom of the spools?
Often moisture condensates and rusts the springs (and detents)... that can make the valve stick..

[edit]...sorry just re-read the full OP and saw where you have done this...[/edit]

GPintheMitten · Oct 5, 2015

Could be loose linkage.

ALKY · Oct 6, 2015

My control was cracking the fender,so I reinforced it and works much better now

Gregster613 · Oct 6, 2015

Hi /Pine, To be totally clear on the loader valve; I haven't re-moved the caps and refreshed the inner mechanism in quite some time. Since I have no problems going into or out of float I assumed that all was well inside the valve itself. ?? Is my assumption perhaps incorrect? Thanks, Greg

almaryholm · Oct 16, 2015

/pine said:
Have you removed the caps on the bottom of the spools?
Often moisture condensates and rusts the springs (and detents)... that can make the valve stick..

Darn holes in caps over spools...after taking mine apart / cleaning out rust/ lube- I got a couple rubber trailer ball covers and slid them over caps to keep moisture out ( squirt a little Fluid Film in holes every so often too)

Rabenfels · Oct 20, 2015

Gregster613: I am trying to figure out what we are talking about. Are you talking the joystick?

myyaz33 · Oct 20, 2015

Rabenfels said:
Gregster613: I am trying to figure out what we are talking about. Are you talking the joystick?

He is actually talking about the loader valve which is underneath your right foot. Its where the linkage from the joystick leads too. There are some caps that can be removed and that is what they are discussing might need cleaning.

Rabenfels · Oct 21, 2015

myyaz33 said:
He is actually talking about the loader valve which is underneath your right foot. Its where the linkage from the joystick leads too. There are some caps that can be removed and that is what they are discussing might need cleaning.

Thanks for the clarification. Guess will have to check those "covers" and hope for the best. By the way and I'm, not certain if that was put together or asked for before: Is there possibly a listing of TYM "problems/issues/break down items" owner's have experienced (by model?) and which other owners or prospective owners should be aware of or do preventive maintenance to avoid?

myyaz33 · Oct 22, 2015

Rabenfels said:
Thanks for the clarification. Guess will have to check those "covers" and hope for the best. By the way and I'm, not certain if that was put together or asked for before: Is there possibly a listing of TYM "problems/issues/break down items" owner's have experienced (by model?) and which other owners or prospective owners should be aware of or do preventive maintenance to avoid?

There are definately a handful of threads that list specific issues and then others call out other known issues for the K2 Series. Mastering search by specific TYM forum would be a must.

Some things I can think of for T233 T273 T293

Frame bolts loosing
drive shaft busting
fuel pump bracket breaking
muffler bracket breaking
wiring harness shorting
hood latch not holding
front drive train rubber boots tearing
HI-LO lever sticking and bending lower bracket
Trans oil sight glass leaking
trans shaft oil seal leaking

ALKY · Oct 22, 2015

my 233 is stuck in 4x4

Gregster613 · Feb 29, 2016

Bump.. I thought I'd reply back about my sluggish valve handle/control. I took the actual valve end caps back off again; but this time I was more experienced at it and actually moved the lever to extend/retract the valve spools ... lo and behold there was a complete area and spring that I had missed the first time doing this!

I missed it because I was afraid of the whole thing shooting out or lots of fluid loss so I never moved the actual spools at all 1st time. Duh on me! I completely slathered grease over everything and my loader handle/control is back working just like new. No more sluggishness or stiffness in the handle.

It still doesn't answer my initial question about actually removing the handle and exposing the complete control assembly and I cannot find any schematic for that area in the service or parts manual...but since it's back to working fine I no longer need to.

/pine and others who suggested I look again at the valve spool - were right and I thank you all. Greg

joeyd · Feb 29, 2016

Gregster,

This winter I lost the curl function on my loader, it ended up being a broken cable due to rust. Here are a couple of pictures of the assembly under the joystick on my 353. I do not know if your 273 is the same.

Gregster613 · Mar 2, 2016

Hi Joeyd, I saw your thread and that's the area I was trying to uncover to grease/re-grease and check the balls to see if they were plastic or steel. But...I got stuck at trying to remove the black plastic cover just on top of the joystick lock? How did you get it removed?? I just couldn't seem to find an appropriate way to get it to come up and off. Sure didn't want to break it either! My joystick looks practically identical to your pictures.

As far as the cables connecting to the valve spool, I assume one can remove the cap/cover on the valve at that end also? You said that you - adjusted - the cables by screwing/unscrewing the ends? I didn't quite see where the adjustment function was located? I sure would like to get some type of motorcycle chain lube sprayed into the cables to assist them in remaining flexible - slide-able also. Even if it isn't needed, I don't see how it could hurt any? Any further advice/thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks, Greg

joeyd · Mar 3, 2016

Gregster,
I removed the three bolts on the plastic cover, (there is another on the seat side), that exposes the rubber boot. The boot was partially held in place by pressure from the two bolts that holds the joystick control. As I remember the cables can be adjusted under the joystick control, there is a lock nut that holds the adjustment.

Gregster613 · Mar 4, 2016

Hi Joeyd, Thanks for responding. My stick must be slightly different then?

I understand how to expose/remove the rubber boot, but - unlike your 1st picture in post #15 - my lever lock comes out "through" that little slit in the hard plastic portion that the rubber boot sits upon. My rubber boot just grasps in the plastic groove and easily slides up the stick but the hard plastic still encapsulates the loader lever lock and remains covering up the balls and such.

I don't need to remove it now after all anyhow - but I sure am curious as to how it does come apart? I had hoped to find a solution in case I ever did need to remove it and thought you might have found the way; but yours must be slightly different or I just am not seeing things correctly!

Thanks for the help anyhow and I'm sure glad you got yours fixed. I hope my last re-grease of the valve has completely cured my problems. It has for the current while at least. Thanks for the interest and suggestions. Greg