Loader bad?

California · Jan 15, 2006

Dick,

Get the loader-equipped tractor. Like others, you will likely say you don't know how you got along without it. It's like having someone there continually to lift all the heavy stuff for you. You will discover many uses that never ocurred to you before.

My loader has never been removed. The added length is a minor nuisance since I'm in an orchard where there are trees to run into while turning, but that's not a big problem. I could remove just the bucket since that's the outer corner when turning, but I never have.

I've found that ballast as far back as possible, not just at the rear axle, is how to counteract the weight of the loader so the tractor doesn't handle nose-heavy.

pruntyc · Jan 15, 2006

What I had in mind California, is I have a 6 foot scraper blade and have 3 of the 35 lbs suitcase weights from JD for the front of this one. So thought I would put the blade on and put the 105 lbs on it, and between the two, it would be enough. Of course when bush hoging, I would have the bush hog on it. I think that would work, anyway. Don't you think so?

FleetMan · Jan 15, 2006

Robert,
I've never had mine off, haven't had a reason to do so at this point. However, the way mine was installed all I would have to do is "pop" a few quick disconnects and remove the appropriate pins. Nothing else would have to be undone, untied or disconnected. It is a very clean installation.

normde2001 · Jan 15, 2006

Depending on how your machine is plumbed you may have to loop the "in and "out" connectors to the FEL to avoid damage to the pump when disconnected.

California · Jan 15, 2006

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( 6 foot scraper blade and have 3 of the 35 lbs suitcase weights ... So thought I would put the blade on and put the 105 lbs on it, and between the two, it would be enough. Of course when bush hoging, I would have the bush hog on it. )</font>

That sounds good. It took me some time to realize what everyone had written before - if I used the loader with no implement on the back, it steered hard (no PS) and could bury the front tires in ruts crossing wet ground(2wd). I loaded the rear tires with water which added a lot of rollover stability and traction for pulling, but that didn't help the nose-heavy feeling.

As I learned what I was doing (and listened to others here), I decided to configure ballast like a teeter-totter, adding weight far back to lighten the front axle. I like the results.

Here's a recent post with a picture of added ballast I put on for a day of hauling gravel:
Link
Its hard to see in that picture but there are pier blocks chained on top of the box blade. Set up that way, the tractor steered well with a bucket of gravel and didn't slip on wet grass. For less extreme loads the BB is enough.

I think the blade and weights you described should work well for ballast.