Had some time today so went to look at upgrading the cab lights. I have some 6” leds and the housing looked similar in size. Took the Kioti light off and pulled the bulb assembly out to see if I could swap the guts. Found something else very interesting (IMO), the base of the bulb is stamped with “not for use in EUROPE/US”. I called my dealer and asked them to check with the regional rep to see how they react.
Lighting upgrade?
- Thread starter D&D
- Start date
- Views: 9214
TractorTYMe
Veteran Member
What's the wattage on the bulb? I don't know if this is for you, but I bought whole LED Nilights from Amazon and put on female 880 connectors using the stock wiring. It is a whole world of difference.
Front and rear
880 female adapters that I soldered onto Nilight harness.
Front and rear
880 female adapters that I soldered onto Nilight harness.
Attachments
The Gaul
Bronze Member
Thank you. That's the kind of input we need
steig
Member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2022
- Messages
- 25
- Tractor
- Kioti CK2620
NiLight makes very good lights at a good price
Pretty sure those are the same lights I used on my ROPs. Or my truck, or my camper.
I have lots of nilights, for the money a very good light.
Never heard from Kioti about lights, no real surprise. Because of you all I ordered some nilights to replace the factory. Waiting on my helper to lift cab roof.
While waiting, I got the Kioti Beacon lamp kit DKA149 (~$40) to power the rear plugs. I also ordered an Agrieyes pole mount beacon and bracket (~$42)
The beacon kit provided the relay, wiring harnesses (one for switch, one for light) and switch. Pop the hood, add a relay, remove 3 console screws, pop in new switch and harness. The extender is a steel piece 2"x6"x 1/8"
While waiting, I got the Kioti Beacon lamp kit DKA149 (~$40) to power the rear plugs. I also ordered an Agrieyes pole mount beacon and bracket (~$42)
The beacon kit provided the relay, wiring harnesses (one for switch, one for light) and switch. Pop the hood, add a relay, remove 3 console screws, pop in new switch and harness. The extender is a steel piece 2"x6"x 1/8"
Attachments
TractorTYMe
Veteran Member
I put 3M hefty double sided taped steel brackets on my composite roof, and added a magnetic LED beacon to mine.
After some use shifting the manure pile, I decided some side lighting would be helpful. The Dk has the same plug and mount on both rear sides so I sourced a new plug 7222-1424-40 - Yazaki | SWP-2P - Corsa Technic | 2-Way Kit for the other side (beacon kit had one) and added 2 - 6" leds to the beacon circuit
Attachments
Today , I added a 37” led light bar. A friend came by and I was supposed to put it on his truck but it was 1/2” too big for where he wanted it on the headache rack. Fit pretty good on the tractor.
Nilight 468w
Nilight 468w
Attachments
Last edited:
5030
Rest in Peace
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2003
- Messages
- 28,967
- Location
- SE Michigan in the middle of nowhere
- Tractor
- Kubota M9000 HDCC3 M9000 HDC
I really hate idiots that put those light bars on their trucks (and they are for off road use only) if you bother to read the label and don't dim them when coming on me. I have a set of KC Flamethrowers mounted in the bumper cut outs and I wait until they get about 100 feet from me and I 'Light them up' big time as in fry their eyeballs. Amazing how fast they turn them things off when I 'light them up'.... Only time I use them is for idiots that don't know what their dimmer switch is or idiots with light bars that don't have any sense.....
Thanks for pointing that out. This was going on his headache rack pointing to the rear. Been moving equipment in the wee hours, so hoping this and the takedown lights give some walk around lighting.I really hate idiots that put those light bars on their trucks (and they are for off road use only) if you bother to read the label and don't dim them when coming on me. I have a set of KC Flamethrowers mounted in the bumper cut outs and I wait until they get about 100 feet from me and I 'Light them up' big time as in fry their eyeballs. Amazing how fast they turn them things off when I 'light them up'.... Only time I use them is for idiots that don't know what their dimmer switch is or idiots with light bars that don't have any sense.....
Coyote_CS2220
Silver Member
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2023
- Messages
- 105
- Location
- BC
- Tractor
- 2023 Kioti CS2220, Yale GLP050TG, Husqavarna Z242F, Yamaha XT250, 2017 Desert Point Kennels GSP from Yuma AZ
LED lights in the winter months make a world of difference on a tractor (or any vehicle) doing snow removal. I have spent many early morning hours clearing a very long drive into the farmsite so I could get out to work and the family to school.
When LEDs came on the scene I traded out the stock lights pretty quick.
I have used NiLights on several vehicles (as you said good price and they are bright) and have notice a couple of things over time (which likely affect other brands too).
First is the body is aluminum and is painted not powder coated. The adhesion to the aluminum varies and some lights will flake pretty quick and you can see the aluminum is pitted and oxidized underneath - perhaps it was paint over oxidized aluminum to begin with ?? - don't know??
The second is waterproofing. IP67 is supposed to be dustproof and waterproof - submersion to 1m of water.
You would think this should be good for most tractor/vehicle applications, but I have had IP67 rated LED's show condensation inside the glass. I guess no manufacture process is perfect so don't be surprised if you get LED IP67 lights and you notice some issues.
Having said this, my NiLight's with some condensation inside the glass have kept working except for one - which my powerwasher overpowered the IP67 rating. If they really get wet inside LEDs do stop working. In this instance the waterproofing failed on the rear of the Nilight LED housing - which I had installed as AUX backup lights on my truck bumper. I get the sense that the back of these LEDs are more vulnerable in the rear where the wires go in. Some silicone sealant may help if they are in an area where water spray can get at them.
Pressurized water is different from submersion.
Anyways, those are my observations. Today I wonder how I managed to work at night before I installed AUX LEDS?
AirOpsMgr
Silver Member
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2023
- Messages
- 150
- Location
- Pike Co. Georgia
- Tractor
- Kioti DK5310SE, Scag Cheetah II 72"
I've had the same experience with a couple of NiLights in the past, water intrusion with just a hose, not pressure washer. Had 1 light bar lose a few strips of LEDs a couple of months after the intrusion, then had a 6" that got fogged up, but all LEDs kept working.
I've had good experience with Rigid, none have fogged up and have pressurization vents, seem to be sealed much better ... but not cheap
Last edited:
braccet
New member
- Joined
- Oct 6, 2023
- Messages
- 20
- Tractor
- Kioti CK2620SE
Are those 880 connectors what's on the factory harness so you don't have to splice on the factory wiring?
5030
Rest in Peace
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2003
- Messages
- 28,967
- Location
- SE Michigan in the middle of nowhere
- Tractor
- Kubota M9000 HDCC3 M9000 HDC
Why I buy all my LED's from SuperbriteLed's One they guarantee them (I know I had a failure and they replaced it), no questions asked and two, I only purchase CREE SMD's and Superbright lists the manufacturer with each one they sell. If they list their products as IP 64 rated, they are. Never had any moisture issues with their lights, ever. The one failure I had was a single bulb and they replaced it no charge. As with everything in life, you always get what you pay for.
On the DK, yes. However, if you disassemble the light fixture, there should be 2 spades connectors on the bulb. Either end, you can make a no-splice connection.
