lets talk impact wrenchs

[bjcsc]

When you're setting up your regulator, do it with the gun in your hand and the trigger pulled. That's the 90 you want, not when it's sitting ready.

I have a cheap kit gun and it does just fine, something is wrong with your setup. I also have a Matco and it certainly outperforms the other (no comparison)...

Check your regulator and set it for 90 delivered and I bet you'll see a difference...

 

[gemini5362]

OK let me just pour out the gasoline and watch the flames erupt. I personally just set my regulator for all the pressure that my compressor puts out and then go with that. I usually have pretty good luck with my impact driver on taking off nuts and stuff.

 

[ray66v]

30 years of working on cars, contrary to what the book says, no one I ever worked wanted anything less than full line pressure on an impact or wrachet. And we used 2 stage compressors that operated from 140 to 175 psi. The more the better. Dozens of guys, tons of tools never did it cause a problem. Working by the job the only thing that matters is speed. And there is a big difference between 90psi and 150.

 

[2manyrocks]

There are times when some good penetrating oil on the frozen part makes a difference.

I bought an electric impact tool and rarely ever use an air tool because the electric one is so convenient.

It's good to see this discussion because an air tool may be cheaper and better in the long run.

 

[Bird]

Gemini5362 and ray66v, I'll bet more than 99% of the people do the same thing; just use whatever pressure their compressor puts out. The tools are rated at 90 psi, if you have less than 90 psi getting to the tool, it may work just find, but with less power that what it's rated for, and vice versa; more than 90 psi will give it more power. But ray, if it never caused a problem in your shop, someone sure was lucky because it does put more stress on the tool, causes faster wear and eventually causes parts to break. But I'm not saying it's a bad idea. As you said, on some jobs, speed is what matters, so it might well be worth the cost of repairing or replacing tools.

2manyrocks, I've personally owned 2 half inch electric impact wrenches in the past. They cost more, they're heavier, and they're less powerful, but if you have no compressor, but do have electricity available, and don't need the extra power, they're great. During our years as full time RVers, I had a generator in the RV and I used my electric impact to change tires, even changed out a complete set of springs under a trailer once with it. And my brother, who used to be a Matco Tool distributor, had been a mechanic before that, and had air tools, now lives in the fifth-wheel travel trailer and has a Craftsman electric impact. Nothing wrong with that.

 

[gabby]

Electric works fine for me. I also have a 28 volt Milwaukee cordless impact that does good work in the bush.

 

[ray66v]

If you buy a good tool, you don't have to baby it.
But, if you want to be my guest.

 

[gemini5362]

If you buy a good tool, you don't have to baby it.
But, if you want to be my guest.

I believe what Bird is saying is that no matter how good a tool it is if you work outside of the specs it was built for it is going to wear prematurely. You can buy a proto brealer bar but if you put a 8 foot cheater bar on it every time you have to break something apart eventually you are going to see problems with it. If Impact wrenches are made to run on 90 psi and you hit them with 175 psi for instance you are going to see some additional wear on it no matter what brand it is. I have a good impact wrench and I usually run it at about 125 psi. I am sure that I am going to see some premature wear from overpressureing it. The 8 or 10 times a year I use it I can probably live with a lot of premature wear. All bird is doing is cautioning people that based on his experience repairing air tools working outside the specs is going to shorten the life.

 

[ray66v]

I'm just telling you, based on my experience actually using these tools every day, for 30 years, in shops with dozens of guys doing the same thing, it is not a big issue. If it was, I would have seen it and experienced it and done something about it. Call me a daredevil if you want for that.
People do break tools, There are guys out there that can screw up an iron ball.
I'm not one of them.
Like I said, be my guest.

 

[Bird]

If you buy a good tool, you don't have to baby it.

it is not a big issue

What do you call a "good" tool? I've repaired the damage on Snap-On, Blue Point, MAC, Matco, Chicago Pneumatic, Ingersoll-Rand, Cornwell, and Craftsman. But I agree that it's not a BIG issue; they may go quite awhile without breaking, but sooner or later; splines twist off rotors, hammer pins break, cam release springs break, metal "mushrooms" both inside and on the outer (visible) end of the anvil. It'll depend not only on air pressure, of course, but how much the tool is used and how hard it's used; i.e., how many bolts, how tight are they, how long does it have to hammer before they break loose.

Excessive air pressure, inadequate lubrication, moisture causing corrosion, and dirt entering the air intake are what keeps air tool repairmen in business.

 

[Solo]

I bought a AirCat 1404 several years ago. It is one of the quiest impacts I have used rated at 82dba. Max torque is 640 ft lbs.. Nice gun.

Solo

 

[ray66v]

Quiet is good, that is an advantage you have if you buy from a tool truck, you can test the tool out with air on it and see if it is a "screamer" before you own it. For example, there are some air wratchets out there that will give you hearing damage, if you were to use them every day, (often, but not always, the cheap ones). Don't make the mistake of thinking that loud equals powerful, this is not always the case. I own several 1/4" air wratchets, the most powerful one, (and my favorite), is the quietest one.

 

[Farmerford]

Thanks, Bird. It is always good to hear from someone who has "inside" information.

I never thought that moisture iniside the tool could be much of a problem because the oil would prevent rust. I have a dedicated dryer/filter for the plasma cutter, but the rest of my air is fresh from the compressor. The cut-off tool and die grinder particularly send lots of water out the exhaust on humid days. But in 20 or so years of occasional use they have never given a problem. Do you think an air dryer and filter for air tools is worth the money?

Thanks.

Chuck Ford

 

[ray66v]

Supplying high volume tools with dry air can be expensive. Simple air dryer filters only remove some of the moisture that has already condensed in the lines, vapor passes mostly right through them to condense further down stream as it cools, (i.e. your hoses, and tools). There are new technologies in filtration coming out, not cheap, that are making claims of success.
A refrigerated or desiccant dryer is the sure way to go. Theses dryers will condense the vapor out of the air and remove it. But, for an average person it is not an economical solution, You start talking at about $400. one big enough for high volume tools like grinders, plan on paying more.
One filter I found that was somewhat useful before buying a desiccant and refrigerated dryer, is called a Motor Gaurd Filter, (around $50). This filter contains a roll of media like toilet paper, (and sometimes I used toilet paper in it), it was the most effective water trap for the money that I found. Although on real humid days, like any other filter, the water vapor will still be an issue.
Keeping your compressor as cool as possible, (adding a fan to blow on it or putting it in a cooler place), also helps. If it is running very hard it probably needs to be larger, a larger compressor will run cooler, thereby producing less water vapor down stream.
Unfortunately, from what I have seen putting more oil in the tool is all most people can reasonably do.
My problem was always I needed air dry enough to paint, so I could not live with any moisture.

 

[gemini5362]

We have a couple of refrigerant air dryers at work. One of the machines uses high volume air at 125 psi. It has its own refrigerant air dryer and it is not cheap to replace.

 

[Bird]

Thanks, Bird. It is always good to hear from someone who has "inside" information.

I never thought that moisture iniside the tool could be much of a problem because the oil would prevent rust. I have a dedicated dryer/filter for the plasma cutter, but the rest of my air is fresh from the compressor. The cut-off tool and die grinder particularly send lots of water out the exhaust on humid days. But in 20 or so years of occasional use they have never given a problem. Do you think an air dryer and filter for air tools is worth the money?

Thanks.

Chuck Ford

Chuck, like Ray said, for most of us, it isn't worth the money. Just give the tools a shot of oil, and one quick burst of air, when you are FINISHED using them. A lot of people give them a shot of oil BEFORE using them, but a little oil after using them will displace most of the moisture.

 

[CATMAN]

Bird: My opinion of a good tool is the CP734 purchased in 1978 that I still use to this day(not every day, like my 3/8" impact). Never been apart, the air adjustment knob is about ready to blow out, the anvil won't hold a socket, but I swear it is just as strong as it was new. That is one good product they built back then. I believe I paid $59 for it. I definitely got my money's worth.

 

[Bird]

Mike, the CP734 was probably Chicago Pneumatic's most popular half inch impact; same power rating as the IR231 but an entirely different design. But like any tool, they can be broken. And I've repaired a couple of dozen of them. The CP734 was also one of the most "cloned" tools around, but the cheap clones didn't have nearly as much power. In fact, I owned one of the Central Pneumatic (Harbor Freight) clones for quite a few years; about half the power of the real thing, but otherwise was a good tool.

 

[CATMAN]

I'm currently looking at IR2135QTiMAX for $250. Specs show 780 ft lbs and only weighs 4.05 lbs. The Q stands for "quiet". If anyone has one, I would like their opinion. Thanks. Sorry, I'm a little of topic for "cheap" impacts.

 

[RobJ]

Here is a shot of my trio.

1979 model Blue Point
1979 model Blue point air ratchet
19?? model Snap on, Just bought off Ebay for $40, works great!!

I couldn't afford the Snap-on impact back in 1979, and if I recall I passed on the Snap-on air ratchet back then because the Blue Point was actually nicer. Probably cheaper to. I have a cheap HF air ratchet and it actually works ok because the bolts are smaller I'm removing. But I have held on to that Bluepoint to long and had my hand pined against a frame!!!