Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[dadohead]

V-belt characteristics vary based on their application and construction. Is the belt to be used for clutching? Full load start/stops? Does it see mis-alignment? (like rotary mower primary drives). The loading and the specific application determines belt construction and final tension.

Polyester cords stretch. Aramid cords dont. Wrap molded belts offer smoothest engagement; raw edge belts can carry higher loads. The scale on a tension gage considers nothing of importance.

Belt drives need 3 things to transmit power:

• Sufficient sheave size
• Sufficient belt wrap
• Sufficient tension

Loss of any one of these three leads to slippage, heat, and failure. Proper belt wrap is easy on a 2 sheave drive; both pulleys give the belt approximately 180 degs of wrap. Most manufacturers cheese-out on sheave size: larger sheaves are expensive. They can spec them down to a bare minimum and get through the warranty period ok. The manufacturers described in this thread have left tension completely up to the customer. Smoke a belt? "Well, YOU didn't tension it right." Don't put up with this! Carefully review the design before you buy their products.

 

[mojoinco]

Hello Folks,

Using my mower yesterday (IHC model 70 or 71) around my wood pile I apparently backed into a modest sized log and got it wedged into the back of my mower (between the roller and deck). I now have a few hammers that are touching the deck (back/bottom edge). Looks like that in its life this has happened before. Not sure if it's my hammers bent straighter and hitting or if the deck is slightly bent (not obvious from the back nor very much from looking underneath). I think before bothering to repair the deck (as required) I will need new knives regardless- let them be guide in terms of hitting the deck.

I found the NH numbers. Ebay was ~$10/each, Messicks $29/ea. Plus shipping in both cases. I would need 88 knives (11 stations), and likely new clevis (or bend these open to insert the knives). Maybe they are pretty standard sized - have yet to look.

Attached are a couple of photos. You can see the shiney spots in the back. 5/16" bolts, nylock nuts. I've considered buying a knife to know the spec for the blade, then shopping at mower specific suppliers. That doesn't take into account the clevis, but the ones I have are in good shape to test fit and go forward, assuming I can get the knives off (will need to remove and test). I am missing one, but I think I can grind one to fit, weight wise. Or at least compare pricing for replacements. The originals are claimed on the parts list to also have bushing/tubes. I didn't notice any on mine (haven't taken any off to see - yet).

Part numbers 2, 3, 4. #2 & #3 have been discontinued, but still show.

484829R1 | BUSHING | Case IH | MyCNH US Store

Case IH - Bushing #484829R1

www.mycnhstore.com

Any recommendations for vendors?

Thanks!

 

[dieselscout80]

Flail Master

FYI those are Y knives not hammers.

 

[LouNY]

Hello Folks,

Using my mower yesterday (IHC model 70 or 71) around my wood pile I apparently backed into a modest sized log and got it wedged into the back of my mower (between the roller and deck). I now have a few hammers that are touching the deck (back/bottom edge). Looks like that in its life this has happened before. Not sure if it's my hammers bent straighter and hitting or if the deck is slightly bent (not obvious from the back nor very much from looking underneath). I think before bothering to repair the deck (as required) I will need new knives regardless- let them be guide in terms of hitting the deck.

I found the NH numbers. Ebay was ~$10/each, Messicks $29/ea. Plus shipping in both cases. I would need 88 knives (11 stations), and likely new clevis (or bend these open to insert the knives). Maybe they are pretty standard sized - have yet to look.

Attached are a couple of photos. You can see the shiney spots in the back. 5/16" bolts, nylock nuts. I've considered buying a knife to know the spec for the blade, then shopping at mower specific suppliers. That doesn't take into account the clevis, but the ones I have are in good shape to test fit and go forward, assuming I can get the knives off (will need to remove and test). I am missing one, but I think I can grind one to fit, weight wise. Or at least compare pricing for replacements. The originals are claimed on the parts list to also have bushing/tubes. I didn't notice any on mine (haven't taken any off to see - yet).

Part numbers 2, 3, 4. #2 & #3 have been discontinued, but still show.

484829R1 | BUSHING | Case IH | MyCNH US Store

Case IH - Bushing #484829R1

www.mycnhstore.com

Any recommendations for vendors?

Thanks!

Those knife clevis's sure do look like tire chain cross chain hooks;
https://wescovan.com/traction-tire-chains/tire-chain-parts/cross-chain-hooks
Also I would say that the housing got tweaked a bit.
Unless the knifes and clevis are worn enough to allow them to hit.
You could pull a couple that are not hitting and compare with the ones that are. Looks to be quite a bit of wear in the "round" mounting holes of the knifes.

 

[dieselscout80]

They do look like cross chain hooks.

Also, from what I’ve seen those light duty flail knives are typically mounted with a bolt to the tabs on the rotor.

 

[leonz]

Hello Folks,

Using my mower yesterday (IHC model 70 or 71) around my wood pile I apparently backed into a modest sized log and got it wedged into the back of my mower (between the roller and deck). I now have a few hammers that are touching the deck (back/bottom edge). Looks like that in its life this has happened before. Not sure if it's my hammers bent straighter and hitting or if the deck is slightly bent (not obvious from the back nor very much from looking underneath). I think before bothering to repair the deck (as required) I will need new knives regardless- let them be guide in terms of hitting the deck.

I found the NH numbers. Ebay was ~$10/each, Messicks $29/ea. Plus shipping in both cases. I would need 88 knives (11 stations), and likely new clevis (or bend these open to insert the knives). Maybe they are pretty standard sized - have yet to look.

Attached are a couple of photos. You can see the shiney spots in the back. 5/16" bolts, nylock nuts. I've considered buying a knife to know the spec for the blade, then shopping at mower specific suppliers. That doesn't take into account the clevis, but the ones I have are in good shape to test fit and go forward, assuming I can get the knives off (will need to remove and test). I am missing one, but I think I can grind one to fit, weight wise. Or at least compare pricing for replacements. The originals are claimed on the parts list to also have bushing/tubes. I didn't notice any on mine (haven't taken any off to see - yet).

Part numbers 2, 3, 4. #2 & #3 have been discontinued, but still show.

484829R1 | BUSHING | Case IH | MyCNH US Store

Case IH - Bushing #484829R1

www.mycnhstore.com

Any recommendations for vendors?

Thanks!

good morning mojinco,

The knife type that your flail mower uses is a
long side slicer grass finish mower knife.

The simple knife hangers on your beautiful flail
mower are simple to use and once they are
unbolted from the mounting station you will be
able to slip the broken knives out through the
gap and insert new side slicers to replace the
missing or damaged ones.

There are several suppliers of flail mower knives
that you can buy replacement knives from.



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


www.flailmaster.com

Phone 1-(615)-848-1813
toll free 1-800-251-4020

Flail Master
Post Office Box 1558
Murfreesboro, Tennesee 37133


------------------------------------------------------------------------


www.cleancutter.com

Clean Cutter Flail and Tiller Blades
169 South Sierra Way
San Bernadino, California

Toll free 1-(800)-345-2335
Phone 1-(909)-889-4084
E-mail sales@cleancutter.com



------------------------------------------------------------------------



www.hardhitter.com

Good Earth agri-products
3443 Yeager Drive, Madera, California

Toll free 1-800-910-3472
Office 1-559-675-3088
Fax 1-559-675-3087



You need to be sure that you order the longer grass
knives with the loop/oval mounting holes otherwise
they will not work for you.

You have two major concerns, price, and freight cost. The two suppliers
in California are closer to you than Flail Master in Tennessee.


You have an IHC flail mower that was designed by Mr. Mott.

 

[mojoinco]

They do look like cross chain hooks.

Also, from what I’ve seen those light duty flail knives are typically mounted with a bolt to the tabs on the rotor.

Mid 60s-early 70s design/sales. I expect I will end up making/buying something with a bolt, spacers. I'll be removing a couple and if needed send them to a supplier for a match up. As long they can be sloppy but not enough to hit the drum nor the body I'm good.

 

[mojoinco]

good morning mojinco,

The knife type that your flail mower uses is a
long side slicer grass finish mower knife.

The simple knife hangers on your beautiful flail
mower are simple to use and once they are
unbolted from the mounting station you will be
able to slip the broken knives out through the
gap and insert new side slicers to replace the
missing or damaged ones.

There are several suppliers of flail mower knives
that you can buy replacement knives from.



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


www.flailmaster.com

Phone 1-(615)-848-1813
toll free 1-800-251-4020

Flail Master
Post Office Box 1558
Murfreesboro, Tennesee 37133


------------------------------------------------------------------------


www.cleancutter.com

Clean Cutter Flail and Tiller Blades
169 South Sierra Way
San Bernadino, California

Toll free 1-(800)-345-2335
Phone 1-(909)-889-4084
E-mail sales@cleancutter.com



------------------------------------------------------------------------



www.hardhitter.com

Good Earth agri-products
3443 Yeager Drive, Madera, California

Toll free 1-800-910-3472
Office 1-559-675-3088
Fax 1-559-675-3087



You need to be sure that you order the longer grass
knives with the loop/oval mounting holes otherwise
they will not work for you.

You have two major concerns, price, and freight cost. The two suppliers
in California are closer to you than Flail Master in Tennessee.


You have an IHC flail mower that was designed by Mr. Mott.

Thank you!

And that's an interesting historical note. I assume he left and started his own operation? Or was it an OEM subcontractor situation?

Oh, that begs the question, is it the same/similar to a particular Mott model/series?

 

[leonz]

Thank you!

And that's an interesting historical note. I assume he left and started his own operation? Or was it an OEM subcontractor situation?

Oh, that begs the question, is it the same/similar to a particular Mott model/series?

The interstater model.

The mott mower company, If his son had not been killed in an experimental
airplane crash most mowers today would be flail mowers.

 

[leonz]

Mid 60s-early 70s design/sales. I expect I will end up making/buying something with a bolt, spacers. I'll be removing a couple and if needed send them to a supplier for a match up. As long they can be sloppy but not enough to hit the drum nor the body I'm good.

If you know someone with a metal bender or your local welding shop
has a round stock metal bender you can purchase your own round bar
stock and make your own knife hangers.