Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

   / Let's talk flail mowers #3,591  
I have been reading through this all along and after researching the various brands and models mentioned I have noticed a variance in the number of knives/hammers for any given width. Usually more knives and less number of hammers for the same model depending on the option. How many should there be at a minimum say for a 150 or 160 model in any given brand? Also if I get a unit that has more knives than hammers, is there anything that would prevent me from hanging hammers later. It appear te more station there are the better the cut, or am I missing something?

Trying to be a sponge here in choosing the right ditch bank mower (verge mower) for my needs. It appears for my tractor the biggest I can handle is a 160 model. The units I am looking at swing out on a arm and the head pivots to mow over and down a ditch bank. Thanks for any help/recommendations.

Keith
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #3,592  
Good morning all,

The spring tensioned "tool less knife mounting system" I have on
my Mathews Company Lawn Genie Pick Up Mower is very wide
and the tapered knives look like airplane wings.

Let me think here, The tapered knives essentially look like one of the fold up
wings on the WW2 US Navy Corsair fighter planes.

The tapered edge creates the aerodynamic lift to let them become horizontal when spun up to speed as the slotted knife hanger permits them to slide sideways and become horizontal at 2200 RPM.

The standard knives(as offered) do not have the tapered edges and cannot do this.
So much depends on the knife hanger but with no tapered edge on the side slicer the point is moot.

The folks at Flail Master said it would not be worth doing for them 9 years ago.

If I can afford or borrow a smart phone next spring I will make a video of the flail mower running at speed.

Its a real shame as The Mathews Company held the patents and I am unsure if they would even consider letting someone else make these side slicers. The thatching blades offered today are 1/2" too long and will need to be cut to length to fit the orbit diameter under the flail mower shroud of my flail mower.
 
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   / Let's talk flail mowers #3,593  
I have been reading through this all along and after researching the various brands and models mentioned I have noticed a variance in the number of knives/hammers for any given width. Usually more knives and less number of hammers for the same model depending on the option. How many should there be at a minimum say for a 150 or 160 model in any given brand? Also if I get a unit that has more knives than hammers, is there anything that would prevent me from hanging hammers later. It appear te more station there are the better the cut, or am I missing something?

Trying to be a sponge here in choosing the right ditch bank mower (verge mower) for my needs. It appears for my tractor the biggest I can handle is a 160 model. The units I am looking at swing out on a arm and the head pivots to mow over and down a ditch bank. Thanks for any help/recommendations.

Keith

====================================================================

Hello Keith,

What do you mean by a 150/160 model????? is this inches in cutting width or knife count?????????? Are you "in ditch mowing???? are you going to add liquid ballast, front weights and wheel weights to to road side wheels to help in balance and stability to counter the gravitational forces created by rear mounted boom mower?????????
Do not forget the far end of that flail mower is going to determine whether you stay upright or roll over.



The basic answer is whether you want a finish flail mower, brush flail mower or a vineyard and orchard flail mower for heavy prunings/thick stemmed brush cutting and grass. That is all there is to that question as you are looking at three/four types of Flail Mower Rotors with the finish flail mowers having the highest knife count, the Brush and and Vineyard and Orchard flail Mowers are in a tie for second place.

Before you even think about messing with chainging knifes on the mounting stations you have to know whether a duck foot/scoop knife can be interchanged with side slicers period. Cast hammer flail knives used in vineyard and orchard service can be used for lawn mowing but its a little rougher cut and if you would be happy with that great
invest in Land Pride Flail Mower which is a Maschio Flail Orchard and Vineyard Shredder under Land Pride Paint.

I just hope that Kubota does not throw these excellent flail mowers to the curb as they are designed and built very well as dual purpose flail mowers. These flail mower/ orchard and vineyard shredders also have a trash door that opens and locks in place and allows them to work in heavy brush without clogging.


As long as the Mule has a 20 plus higher horsepower in its frame size greater than the required horsepower of the finish flail mower.

In my fathers case;

He first used his 36 inch towed motorized lawn Genie Pick Up Mower with an 8 HP Briggs to create a mile long jogging path for my mother in the heavy brush in the pasture that he he used his Ford Jubilee to Mow 12 to 15 foot golden rod down to clear and reclaim the old pasture with JD 25A finish flail mower with a 7 foot cut SO>>>>........

go through the flail mower thread and come back and ask more questions go back to the thread and read some more and then ask more questions and then decide whether "a specific type of flail mower is best for you.

A finish flail mower with heat treated knives is a good dual purpose flail mower as long as you have more power 20 HP PLUS


A brush flail mower will mow brush and good sod with an acceptable finish

A dual purpose flail mower with formed hardened scoop knives will be unable to recut grass and brush

A "CAST HAMMER" hammer knife is a very good flail mower for brush and sod mowing but the finish will be rough



You have to decide what you can afford, what you can invest in and the finish you want for the brush or sod.

Do not expect to invest in a wide flail mower/shredder and use your current mule unless you want to crawl at your first mowing and mow at half cuts to have a 1-2 inch cut(providing it can lift it).

Look the Land Pride Flail Mower Shredders as they are an excellent dual purpose flail mower first then the Caroni scoop knive flail mowers and then look at the finish flail mowers with three rows of knives and then the finish flail mowers with four rows of knives.


I cant help you until you know what you can afford what type of finish you want and whether you want a dual purpose mower as flail mowers as currently available here in the United States are not a fits all flail mower.

If you don't have adequate power/frame size/low center of gravity/liquid ballast/wheel weights/front weights the point is moot.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #3,594  
leonz, as you seem to be knowledgeable about the cutters I'd like to get your comment on this one:

Fig 7-1_zps9wexrir1.jpg

I'm looking for a dual purpose solution as well. Lighter brush and field grasses. Doesn't need to be "finish" quality.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #3,595  
Island tractor thanks for the reply. Minr is now on the second hole from the bottom. They must have changed the bend of the skids. The grease fitting is dead in the middle of the bend . Thanks for the reply!
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #3,596  
Island tractor thanks for the reply. Minr is now on the second hole from the bottom. They must have changed the bend of the skids. The grease fitting is dead in the middle of the bend . Thanks for the reply!
Here's a photo of my rear roller zerk:
 

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   / Let's talk flail mowers #3,597  
Hi, Keith: Re: hammer blades vs grass blades.

I have limited experience with a 180cm heavy-duty fail with 16 140cm hammer blades. The setup cuts my lawn as well or perhaps better than my Buhler Farm King 5' finishing mower. Each 180 cm swath is completely even across the entire width and I don't see how a different type of blade could improve it.

Intuitively, it seems to me SHARP hammer blades should provide a more even cut than pairs of grass blades. The hammer-blade cutting edge is always parallel to the ground and the momentum keeps them at a constant radius. For light, grass cutting there is virtually no way the blade will not be straight-out from the rotor. The pair of grass blades I was shown for my mower seem like they would have an upward angle to the centre of the pair, plus there is a gap between the two cutting edges, even if they are not mounted with spacers.

My vendor told me all customers who had grass knives and changed to hammer blades prefer hammer blades. None have gone back to grass knives. He also has customers who quit using their riding mowers and now only use the heavy-duty flail with hammer blades.

Sales literature seems to infer hammer blades are not suitable for grass cutting but I wonder if they are just assuming the hammer blades are going to be in bad shape from mulching. As noted in this thread:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...alk-flail-mowers-post4558728.html#post4558728

... I cut my lawn after fairly heavy brush clearing on an over-grown trail which had plenty of dead limbs and logs. I also hit two rocks resulting in minor damage to a couple of blades, but they still had a good cutting edge and worked fine on the lawn two days later.

I reconditioned the entire blade set before cutting the trail. Over half the blades were in as bad shape as the curled-up blade shown in the photo of the two I replaced. Reconditioning was easy...just grind the blade top flat with an angle grinder, use a bench grinder set at the proper angle (from a good blade) to grind the bottom, and grind off the very sharp leading edge with the fine grinding wheel.

In this post:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...alk-flail-mowers-post4514225.html#post4514225

... Jack Yuan cautioned about hammer blade weight variations. I imagine it is more of concern for hammer blades than grass blades. The weights of my reconditioned set (shown in photo) ranged from 1,021.5 to 1,048 g (after I ground a 1,060g down to 1,043.5). I don't know what imbalance is harmful and considered grinding them all to within a few grams of the lightest (1,021.5 g). However, the mower has had virtually no vibration so I decided to use them "as is", putting similar-weight blades at 180 degrees to each other and working from the lightest blades in the centre to the heaviest at the ends. I numbered the blades 1-16 from lightest to heaviest and installed them on the rotor according to this diagram:

Flail_Blade_Positions.png

It seems to have worked because there is still virtually no abnormal vibration at any speed. I purchased another complete set of blades and intend to grind them to within a gram or two of the lightest in the set. When it is time for blade maintenance, I will change out the entire set and grind the old blades to more or less equal weights.

From my limited use (but with no experience with Y/grass blades) and comments from my flail mower vendor, I recommend hammer blades. Perhaps I am missing advantages of Y/grass blades?
 

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   / Let's talk flail mowers #3,598  
leonz, as you seem to be knowledgeable about the cutters I'd like to get your comment on this one:

View attachment 481409

I'm looking for a dual purpose solution as well. Lighter brush and field grasses. Doesn't need to be "finish" quality.

=========================================================================


I just sent a PM to you. If I have asked you this before I apologize; are you on the Wenatchee side of King County or are you closer to Skykomish?
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #3,599  
leonz, as you seem to be knowledgeable about the cutters I'd like to get your comment on this one:

View attachment 481409

I'm looking for a dual purpose solution as well. Lighter brush and field grasses. Doesn't need to be "finish" quality.

I've ordered a Woodmaxx with those cutters. I'll post the results after I get it. I also ordered a set of side slicers for it too.
 
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   / Let's talk flail mowers #3,600  
Personally if I were OCD enough to weigh all the hammers, I'd drill a hole on the back to remove material & equalize weight. That way order wouldn't matter & everything would balance as well or better.
 
 

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