Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[K5lwq]

Most ditch bank flails will require 2 sets of remotes to work 2 cylinders. One really needs to have float capability. That allows the head to follow the contour of the ground.

 

[Reg]

hey guys. Ive got a Kubota MX 5200, and I want to run a 5 ft ditch bank mower. I dont have any rear remotes installed on the tractor, just a 3rd fucntion on my loader. does anyone know of a good place to find practical information about what kind of rear remotes i would need for a ditch bankk mower? I called my local kubota dealer and they were like "we dont sell flail mowers". ive been reading in this forum to try to get an idea of what im looking for and im having a hard time finding the information that i am most curious about.

thanks,
sascha

Depends on the mower. i.e. how many it needs for however many dimensions it moves in - typically 2, but maybe 3.
I put a "pack" of 4 on my smallest tractor for about $500 a decade or so ago.
Surplus supply had Parker units in several configs, I wanted 3 at the time, but 4 wasn't much more $s

There was some reading on their web site at the time, enough the get me "educated" well enough the chose what I needed.

BTW, a handy place to mount a bank of 4 remotes is on the right side upright of the rollover bar.
It works well for things like stump grinding if you want to be OFF the tractor to not get vibrated and it is next to the loader joy stick so I can inch the tractor back/forth with the bucket curl//dump.

 

[JWR]

Depends on the mower. i.e. how many it needs for however many dimensions it moves in - typically 2, but maybe 3.
I put a "pack" of 4 on my smallest tractor for about $500 a decade or so ago.
Surplus supply had Parker units in several configs, I wanted 3 at the time, but 4 wasn't much more $s

There was some reading on their web site at the time, enough the get me "educated" well enough the chose what I needed.

BTW, a handy place to mount a bank of 4 remotes is on the right side upright of the rollover bar.
It works well for things like stump grinding if you want to be OFF the tractor to not get vibrated and it is next to the loader joy stick so I can inch the tractor back/forth with the bucket curl//dump.

I realize there is wide variation (and that this is MF apples versus Kubota oranges) BUT on larger tractors like my MF 2660 adding one remote is expensive, approaching $1K , not "remotely" similar to the $500 for 4 you mention.

 

[Lnk]

Big difference between having a dealer install a remote package, and buying the parts and installing them yourself. Pretty sure he did the latter. You are correct, would be expensive at the dealer.

 

[TheFarmerInAdell]

Typically the first remote is expensive to install, with subsequent add-ons being less expensive. Depending on your mechanical aptitude it can be a DIY to get an aftermarket valve pack and add it on, or even buy the factory parts and install them yourself. If you're not mechanically inclined I would suggest having the dealer install them as it can be dangerous and expensive if it is done wrong. If the dealer is installing I'd suggest adding as many as the tractor allows (most seem to be 2 or 3), that way you only pay for labor once.

 

[DavesTractor]

Factory remotes tend to be cleaner as far as hoses and brackets and such, as they are designed specifically for the tractor. Generally you just have a lever or two (or three) showing with the valves mounted, somewhat hidden away on some models, either under the seat area or on the back of the rockshaft area. Valves are then operated with levers with linkage or cables. The downside is expense. But a person should check, because where one brand will be $3000 for a multi-spool setup, another might be $1200.

Aftermarket valves tend to get busy with all the hoses and a valve exposed on the fender or a ROPS bracket, but you can do as many spools as you want and the expense is generally quite a bit less.

 

[electrycmonk]

Ad me to the list of happy customers with Merrick's for the ole 917 flail i scored last fall/winter.

once I got it ohome I made a list of stuff to do and when I wanted them to occur..... Then Covid happened. Just live everyone else's life was upended.

So I found a spare bolt to replace the one that fell out of the gearbox output shaft housing.
I also drained, rinsed, cleaned and resealed both the rear covering and output shaft housing.

test run showed that the seal was now toast.

checked online....had a few minor issues... easily resolved. Ordered both the input and output shaft O-ring-Seal thing-a-ma-bob.
they arrived without issue.
drained the gearbox somewhat. Cleaned the surfaces.
It took some time getting the seal's metal compression metal parts extracted from the shaft housing cap thingy.
installed *Only* the output shaft seal this time.
topped off the fluid, greased all the zerks. Replaced a couple missing blades..... went and had a great outcome mowing the back yard.

that was over a week ago. Last night I did a craigslist search for flail mowers across 1/2 our nation.... no less than a dozen shown listed for several flail mowers across the mid-east coast.

 

[electrycmonk]

Thank you flail nation. It's been, overall a positive season for my ole ford 917 6' unit.
Yes, I had a couple bumps in the "learning curve" but, they were far from overwhelming. As of right now I can comfortably say that it's value is worth every penny I spent on it and every mile driven to go get it.

Today I was able to mow both front & big backyard in just about 2 hrs. That's my best time ever.this is a 2.5 acre plot so, square foot-wise, I mowed almost 2 acres in mostly mid 3 & 2nd gears and used a bungie cord as throttle lock at basically 2000rpms

Cheers folks

 

[K5lwq]

Thank you flail nation. It's been, overall a positive season for my ole ford 917 6' unit.
Yes, I had a couple bumps in the "learning curve" but, they were far from overwhelming. As of right now I can comfortably say that it's value is worth every penny I spent on it and every mile driven to go get it.

Today I was able to mow both front & big backyard in just about 2 hrs. That's my best time ever.this is a 2.5 acre plot so, square foot-wise, I mowed almost 2 acres in mostly mid 3 & 2nd gears and used a bungie cord as throttle lock at basically 2000rpms

Cheers folks

That is great! Glad you are liking your flail.

Out of curiosity, why do you have to bungie cord the throttle? I think it should stay where you set it until you pull it back to idle.

 

[jthibodeau89]

hey guys. Ive got a Kubota MX 5200, and I want to run a 5 ft ditch bank mower. I dont have any rear remotes installed on the tractor, just a 3rd fucntion on my loader. does anyone know of a good place to find practical information about what kind of rear remotes i would need for a ditch bankk mower? I called my local kubota dealer and they were like "we dont sell flail mowers". ive been reading in this forum to try to get an idea of what im looking for and im having a hard time finding the information that i am most curious about.

thanks,
sascha

I have the same dilema on my JD4300. If your loader is QD, you can use the loader joystick once the loader is detached. That is what i plan to do when i find a bank/fence row mower.

 

[leonz]

Hello and good morning electrycmonk,

I am glad the surgery for the repair went well and the mower is working well for you.

If I have not done it already I want to welcome you as the newest resident member of the
Flail Mower Nations from the great State of Texas; Denton Texas Branch.


Happy mowing,

leonz

 

[Fallon]

That is great! Glad you are liking your flail.

Out of curiosity, why do you have to bungie cord the throttle? I think it should stay where you set it until you pull it back to idle.

I'll 2nd that. All tractors I know of should have a throttle that stays fixed when you aren't moving it. You may need to tighten something a hair.

 

[electrycmonk]

That is great! Glad you are liking your flail.

Out of curiosity, why do you have to bungie cord the throttle? I think it should stay where you set it until you pull it back to idle.

The throttle arm just under the steering wheel is "loose" behind the control panel. The friction assembly isn't holding it "steady" currently. So when I do the fluid changes.... I'll have enough disassembled to discover what needs fixed. PLUS, I'll also be able to fix/lube the foot throttle pedal when doing this too. Foot is "stuck" in the up position hardcore.

 

[electrycmonk]

Hello and good morning electrycmonk,

I am glad the surgery for the repair went well and the mower is working well for you.

If I have not done it already I want to welcome you as the newest resident member of the
Flail Mower Nations from the great State of Texas; Denton Texas Branch.


Happy mowing,

leonz

/Tip o' the hat
Thanks Leonz

 

[electrycmonk]

I have the same dilema on my JD4300. If your loader is QD, you can use the loader joystick once the loader is detached. That is what i plan to do when i find a bank/fence row mower.

Dude... There are a few threads I've sub'd too... They are very Mcgyver-esque in their designs. One liked to their youtube channel with videos on it and other projects....

 

[K5lwq]

The throttle arm just under the steering wheel is "loose" behind the control panel. The friction assembly isn't holding it "steady" currently. So when I do the fluid changes.... I'll have enough disassembled to discover what needs fixed. PLUS, I'll also be able to fix/lube the foot throttle pedal when doing this too. Foot is "stuck" in the up position hardcore.

I see. Hopefully you are able to lower the throttle before clutching. Clutching under a load will cause premature failure. That was my only concern with the way you have to do it now.

 

[electrycmonk]

I see. Hopefully you are able to lower the throttle before clutching. Clutching under a load will cause premature failure. That was my only concern with the way you have to do it now.

Thanks. Yeah, I am a gearheaded g33k dude. I learned on a MF183? And a dieutz (sp?) Back in the 70's & 80's on family dairy farm. Then almost went for my ASE certificate in Jr. College..... Got my CDL back in '04 .... Floating them gears as often as I can on any stick I own..... Sadly can't quite do that on the 7260 cub. When I got it the previous owner had it several years and seems to have done some significant wear on the clutch. I can't run it uphill in the yard in H2 or 3 at all.... And I can still use momentum up hill in H2 With the flail or BH on the rear IF I started on level ground far enough back other wise it's M3 about 1700-2K as it's no reason to rev any higher....

I am hoping to get another 6-18 months off this clutch..... I have milked clutch's in my old Subarus before..heack I drove from here in Denton, Tx in college for Xmas break to northern California and back on a worn out clutch. I knew it's limits. Ran it within them and never had a any slippage occur....

But, I do appreciate the advisement.
/Cheers

 

[Ricn]

On my Kubota 2501 remotes were quite expensive but then I do have three; maybe could get away with two but wanted the easy way for my cylinder offset mower plus top and tilt .features Now that I have them I find the tilt is not that necessary in my situation but others use them lots, it just depends on your needs is all. The valve body kit Kubota uses also leaks off and the dealer told me they mostly all do that so when I discovered this he installed lockout fittings no charge. Now, and after getting everything working well, I would not be without these remotes as they make my tractor time so much easier and enjoyable too. There are no factory remotes for my tractor evidently as I tried to order with them installed when new but my dealer here said they are dealer installed items; don't know about other Kubota models. Very happy with the install as well, nice and tidy as things should be and they make flail mowing easy as eating apple pie. Also installed a fast hitch and my own two foot level on the mower making for easy leveling when putting on the mower and other implements. This site was hugely helpful when doing all this, so many here who know and are willing helpers for anything having to so with tractors. Now, I'd like to get one of the lighter weight grapples at some point.

Ricn

Ricn

 

[leonz]

Thanks. Yeah, I am a gearheaded g33k dude. I learned on a MF183? And a dieutz (sp?) Back in the 70's & 80's on family dairy farm. Then almost went for my ASE certificate in Jr. College..... Got my CDL back in '04 .... Floating them gears as often as I can on any stick I own..... Sadly can't quite do that on the 7260 cub. When I got it the previous owner had it several years and seems to have done some significant wear on the clutch. I can't run it uphill in the yard in H2 or 3 at all.... And I can still use momentum up hill in H2 With the flail or BH on the rear IF I started on level ground far enough back other wise it's M3 about 1700-2K as it's no reason to rev any higher....

I am hoping to get another 6-18 months off this clutch..... I have milked clutch's in my old Subarus before..heack I drove from here in Denton, Tx in college for Xmas break to northern California and back on a worn out clutch. I knew it's limits. Ran it within them and never had a any slippage occur....

But, I do appreciate the advisement.
/Cheers

==========================================================================================================

"Duetz"


They make beautiful simple to own, operate and use air cooled diesel engines.
I worked on them for years and they are so much easier to repair as they have indirect injection engines.

 

[arto98607]

Is that the same as a world famous German company called Deutz?

DEUTZ AG: Engines