Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[leonz]

Leonz - Thanks for your good comments. I know that I can get a good cut if I mow more frequently, but for a couple of reasons I want to let the grass grow to 2-3 feet. I had already lowered the roller to cut at about 3-4 inches, but I am now wondering if I shorten my top link will I increase the suction aspect of the mower and therefore address the grass that gets rolled over/remains uncut? I think I have one more hole for lowering the roller, so if I use that lower hole the height of the cut should not change. Thoughts?

The flail mower nation? How do I join. I should be a charter member since as a wee lad I used to mow about 15 acres on a Ford 8N with a flail in the mid-fifties. We called it a hammer knife. This replaced our sickle bar.

Sam

Hello Sam,

Every one of us is a charter member.

As you are a flail mower owner you are already a proud resident of the flail mower nations,
there is no passport required at the beer garden entrance for the border crossing.
Further no passport is required to travel to or from the flail mower nations for its
residents.

I have to be careful with the membership rosters as no records are kept and I dont need
any visits from the black helicopters or the men in black wanting to know who, what, when, where, why,
or when about the flail mower nations residents that are not required to pay taxes or fee's to be members.

====================================================================

NOW,

about your workhorse of a flail mower there is no need to shorten the top link
as that will be worse than passing gas in church!!!!

There will be no gain in pressure gradient if you adjust and shorten the top link.
AND you risk causing damage to the scoop knives and knife hangers or making the
mower nose dive if you leave it in float.

If you use the last bottom holes for rear roller placement you will be at the highest mower setting.
Sam you will have to decide if you can tolerate a 5-6 inch cut and be fully aware the mowed quality
will be poorer for the work.

If you have the time to make half cuts Sam that will aid in mowing at the height desired your just going to
spend more time in the seat. if you have a fender radio that will help pass the time.


So much depends on the knife style you have and how sharp they are.

 

[LouieJunior]

Observations - Caroni 1900 Knife Change Over

I observed both edges of many knives were badly deformed -- even though I have never changed knives since my purchase two years ago. Perhaps the back edge strikes the rotor when hitting an obstacle. I also noticed the cutters on the starboard side were in more need of replacement than the port side -- I offset my mower. This made sense to me. The edges on the left side -- lining up with the left-rear tire were still sharp.

I took it upon myself to change all 56 Knives because I decided to switch to the Flail Master Product #M-108381 and I wanted my rotor to remain balanced. Flail Master sold me 112 knives believing that is what was needed. I didn't know until today that they doubled-up on my order. I am fine with this because I will ultimately use them. Somebody should tell them the correct number required for Caroni 1900 is 56.

My clevises and metric bolts all seemed to be in good enough shape to reuse. I did notice the two end stations (right and left) require a shorter 10mm bolt. I didn't measure the length. All the others are 80mm long. When re-assembling, I wondered how the far end station knives avoid hitting the mower housing.

The entire operation took about four hours. From now on, I will only plan to replace one or two blades at a time -- as needed. Hopefully that approach won't be such a pain in the butt.

 

[leonz]

Observations - Caroni 1900 Knife Change Over

I observed both edges of many knives were badly deformed -- even though I have never changed knives since my purchase two years ago. Perhaps the back edge strikes the rotor when hitting an obstacle. I also noticed the cutters on the starboard side were in more need of replacement than the port side -- I offset my mower. This made sense to me. The edges on the left side -- lining up with the left-rear tire were still sharp.

I took it upon myself to change all 56 Knives because I decided to switch to the Flail Master Product #M-108381 and I wanted my rotor to remain balanced. Flail Master sold me 112 knives believing that is what was needed. I didn't know until today that they doubled-up on my order. I am fine with this because I will ultimately use them. Somebody should tell them the correct number required for Caroni 1900 is 56.

My clevises and metric bolts all seemed to be in good enough shape to reuse. I did notice the two end stations (right and left) require a shorter 10mm bolt. I didn't measure the length. All the others are 80mm long. When re-assembling, I wondered how the far end station knives avoid hitting the mower housing.

The entire operation took about four hours. From now on, I will only plan to replace one or two blades at a time -- as needed. Hopefully that approach won't be such a pain in the butt.

==========================================================================================================================================================


Hello Louiejunior,


About the end mounting stations onn the TM1900 flail mower rotor-

when the flail mower rotor spins up to speed the knife pairs stay in position due to the speed
of rotation of the flail mower rotor even with the shackle.


About the knife condition in general-

The longer mounting system with the shackle and having two rows of side slicers
allows the knives to be pushed back with no obstructions and then the knife edge
will contact the flail mower rotor.

AS I have discussed in detail before for the members of the Flail Mower Nations and our fellow TBN
members its all about the flail mower rotor OR lack of one in the design of the Caroni flail mower models
and other brands the smaller rotor/bar stock saves them money in building the flail mower and requires less
work to make it this way.

I expect to see more Landpride flail mowers(Maschio brand) sold as they provide the end user with a trash door that allows faster disposal of clippings/brush which reduces the time the brush/clippings stay in the flail mower as they are immediately ejected through the trash door.

 

[leonz]

Observations - Caroni 1900 Knife Change Over

I observed both edges of many knives were badly deformed -- even though I have never changed knives since my purchase two years ago. Perhaps the back edge strikes the rotor when hitting an obstacle. I also noticed the cutters on the starboard side were in more need of replacement than the port side -- I offset my mower. This made sense to me. The edges on the left side -- lining up with the left-rear tire were still sharp.

I took it upon myself to change all 56 Knives because I decided to switch to the Flail Master Product #M-108381 and I wanted my rotor to remain balanced. Flail Master sold me 112 knives believing that is what was needed. I didn't know until today that they doubled-up on my order. I am fine with this because I will ultimately use them. Somebody should tell them the correct number required for Caroni 1900 is 56.

My clevises and metric bolts all seemed to be in good enough shape to reuse. I did notice the two end stations (right and left) require a shorter 10mm bolt. I didn't measure the length. All the others are 80mm long. When re-assembling, I wondered how the far end station knives avoid hitting the mower housing.

The entire operation took about four hours. From now on, I will only plan to replace one or two blades at a time -- as needed. Hopefully that approach won't be such a pain in the butt.

==========================================================================================================================================================


Hello Louiejunior,


About the end mounting stations onn the TM1900 flail mower rotor-
when the flail mower rotor spins up to speed the knife pairs stay in
position due to the speed of rotation of the flail mower rotor even
with the shackle.


About the knife condition in general-
The longer mounting system with the shackle and having two rows of side slicers
allows the knives to be pushed back with no obstructions and then the knife edge
will contact the flail mower rotor.

AS I have discussed in detail before for the members of the Flail Mower Nations and our fellow TBNmembers its all about the flail mower rotor OR lack of one in the design of the Caroni flail mower models and other brands the smaller rotor/bar stock saves them money in building the flail mower and requires less work to make it this way.

I expect to see more Landpride flail mowers(Maschio brand) sold as they provide the end user with a trash door that allows faster disposal of clippings/brush which reduces the time the brush/clippings stay within the flail mower as they are immediately ejected through the trash door.

 

[Kodiak45]

I'm trying to remove the rotor on this JD 25A to change the bearings and also grind down the previous owners deck welding job which doesn't give enough clearance for the blades. I have everything unbolted, but how the heck does the rotor come out. I tried hitting one side with a hammer, thinking it would move enough to clear the side housing, but not knowing exactly what I am doing left me not wanting to make a wrong move and ruin something. Also, I understand that there are two types of bearings, anybody know which ones I have? This thing is going to be the death of me, at least know I understand why it was only $200, but I haven't given up hope. I look forward to being an "active" member of the flail nation as I don't think just owning one counts for much...

 

[Fallon]

I'm trying to remove the rotor on this JD 25A to change the bearings and also grind down the previous owners deck welding job which doesn't give enough clearance for the blades. I have everything unbolted, but how the heck does the rotor come out. I tried hitting one side with a hammer, thinking it would move enough to clear the side housing, but not knowing exactly what I am doing left me not wanting to make a wrong move and ruin something. Also, I understand that there are two types of bearings, anybody know which ones I have? This thing is going to be the death of me, at least know I understand why it was only $200, but I haven't given up hope. I look forward to being an "active" member of the flail nation as I don't think just owning one counts for much...

Similar boat. I bought my flail for $100. New PTO, new knives to find the missing knives were removed because they hit the deck. Some plasma torch & tig work later its ugly but functional. Still need to fix an ancient crack in the deck where it attaches to one of the spars. Its noisy probably because of that foot long crack vibrating around.

$500 & a weekend or 2 of work for an upgrade to my new rotary cutter was well worth it. I use the ancient noisy flail over my 2 year old LandPride rotary cutter.

Its worth the work.

 

[Kodiak45]

I'm trying to remove the rotor on this JD 25A to change the bearings and also grind down the previous owners deck welding job which doesn't give enough clearance for the blades. I have everything unbolted, but how the heck does the rotor come out. I tried hitting one side with a hammer, thinking it would move enough to clear the side housing, but not knowing exactly what I am doing left me not wanting to make a wrong move and ruin something. Also, I understand that there are two types of bearings, anybody know which ones I have? This thing is going to be the death of me, at least know I understand why it was only $200, but I haven't given up hope. I look forward to being an "active" member of the flail nation as I don't think just owning one counts for much...

Has this thread gone dead after all these years...?

 

[IslandTractor]

Send a note to Leonz. He is our resident flail maven. Not sure he knows about this thread.

 

[JD40MO77]

I'm trying to remove the rotor on this JD 25A to change the bearings and also grind down the previous owners deck welding job which doesn't give enough clearance for the blades. I have everything unbolted, but how the heck does the rotor come out. I tried hitting one side with a hammer, thinking it would move enough to clear the side housing, but not knowing exactly what I am doing left me not wanting to make a wrong move and ruin something. Also, I understand that there are two types of bearings, anybody know which ones I have? This thing is going to be the death of me, at least know I understand why it was only $200, but I haven't given up hope. I look forward to being an "active" member of the flail nation as I don't think just owning one counts for much...

Take it loose on both ends of the rotor. Also there may be a set screw and locking collar on that inner race of the bearing that has is locked to the shaft. You mentioned hammering.....and from the picture I see what may be marks from hammering on the end of the rotor shaft....that can mushroom it out and then you have a new problem.....if you need to hammer use a piece of wood or a dead blow hammer. I also ran into the bearing question. Let me look for some pics

Hope this helps a little, you may want to google images of 4 bolt flange bearings and locking collars. I ended up buying mine at the local NAPA store and I think they were SKF brand

 

[leonz]

I apologize for not keeping up with the activities of the Flail Mower Nations
today as I have been dealing with the preparatory work involving a boiler replacement.

My computer which is used almost exclusively for communication with members of the
Flail Mower Nations has been in the computer hospital and will be home well recovered
and ready for more work.


The weather has been nice though for sure.

I have been calming the frayed nerves of my very large herd(400 bags) of bagged Kimmels
rice coal and they are sleeping peacefully under its silo tarp blanket. The Keystoker
coal stoker is also resting peacefully on my trailer waiting to be pulled down the
trailers ramp to the ground where I will be installing the plumbing before we roll it into
place when the old boilers are gone and set aside to be loaded on the trailer.



The issue is the disease called maximus paintus obliterus allus my partus o no us!

(Too much paint to make it look pretty)

Sadly this is almost the worst scourge to our fellow members of the
flail mower nations when it comes to taking care of our used/adopted
flail mower babies when doing major surgery that hurts.

Sadly your going to have to invest in more time and a **** good work light as you
will have to spend time digging out the set screws that anchor the 25A flail mower rotor
stub shafts to the bearings.

The outer bearings are removed first as they are simplest to remove and toss in the scrap bin INSERT ;^( here.

You need to invest in 2 pound brass hammer for your tool box and the paint is so thick your going to need to either
scrape all of it off the bearing flanges to find the set screws.

You will have to dig the paint out the set screws most likely as well to allow the allen wrench to be pushed all the way into the
base of the set screws opening.

OK once loosen the bearing flanges you will slide the rotor to the side to allow it to be removed.

It is so much better to put the flail mower on its back and do it that way as you will be able to see all
the underside of the flail mower and the bearing parts. you will be able to weld the patch for the shroud
as well if you want to repair it from the inside first and then attach a second flap of steel to the outside of
the shroud.

No worries my friend, it just needs some more time to work on it slowly and carefully one step at a time.