Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[leonz]

So i am in the midst of getting a new JD 4120 or 4720. I am seriously looking at the JD 25a or 390. My concern is my yard is uneven and a has a couple steep hills. I have some rougher wooded area i want to make and trails and use the flail to maintain that. I looked though this thread a bit but couldnt confirm. I need to decide first of the week to get my order in so i can get the new tractor in soon. I appriciate the help. I really like the idea of how these work just not sure it would apply to my mowing.

Josh

Hello Josh,


No need to worry about your "scruffy lawn ever" the mower(s)
will have no trouble with dealing with the work.

The more power you have the less your new mule will have to struggle and the
the more even the power delivered to the "Power Take Off" will be. AND the tractor
will never be underpowered.

A gear drive mule would be better as there is much less power lost through the drive
train due to the mechanical transmission rather than a hydrostatic tranmission.

Saying that, the 66 gross horsepower the 4720 has will be more than enough for the
task and most any other jobs.

 

[camdenlake]

Hello Josh,


No need to worry about your "sruffy lawn ever" the mower(s)
will have no trouble with dealing with the work.

The more power you have the less your new mule will have to struggle and the
the more even the power delivered to the "Power Take Off" will be. AND the tractor
will never be underpowered.

A gear drive mule would be better as there is much less power lost through the drive
train due to the mechanical transmission rather than a hydrostatic tranmission.

Saying that the 66 gross horsepower thew 4720 has will be more than enough for the
task and most any other jobs.

Thanks. I guess what i am most curious about since in cannot see one in action is how it behaves when you go over a hill while mowing it go up a sharp hill. Since it suspended by the 3pt when you go up the hill would it not want to dig in? Sorry for basic qestions hard to spend the money with out knowing how it will behave on my complicated yard. A typical mower did not work well as there are some sharp hills that also turn. I am sure the flail will do some chewing but i am ok with that for the most part as it will help get things straightend out. The JD 390 i am considering will come with thier huge smooth cut knives they are listed as hardend. Will these be ok for some light brush work? Or should i get a set of heavy duty hammer knives?


Thanks again
Josh

 

[IslandTractor]

Thanks. I guess what i am most curious about since in cannot see one in action is how it behaves when you go over a hill while mowing it go up a sharp hill. Since it suspended by the 3pt when you go up the hill would it not want to dig in? Sorry for basic qestions hard to spend the money with out knowing how it will behave on my complicated yard. A typical mower did not work well as there are some sharp hills that also turn. I am sure the flail will do some chewing but i am ok with that for the most part as it will help get things straightend out. The JD 390 i am considering will come with thier huge smooth cut knives they are listed as hardend. Will these be ok for some light brush work? Or should i get a set of heavy duty hammer knives?

Thanks again
Josh

Typically the 3PT is lowered all the way so the flail rides on its rear roller. That allows it to follow the terrain pretty closely as the rear roller is only inches from the cutting blades. A flail is better than a bush hog riding on its rear wheel and the flail scalps less.

 

[leonz]

The JD390 will be fine for what you want to do with no question.

The hardened knives will last much longer than the standard knives.

The proper set up of the mower when it is mounted every season is
the most important thing.

Once you set the cutting height by adjusting the rear rollers height, you MUST
level the mower. You do this by putting a small bubble level on the top of the
gearbox and adjusting the top link until the bubble is centered.


With heavy brush and scrub it is always advisable to back over it first with the flail mower.
and then drive over it as the suction created by the flail mower rotor and knives is huge plus
when mowing.

If you look at some of the pictures that Island Tractor has uploaded he shows how well reverse
mowing over scrub brush works in clearing and maintaining land.


You have to be sure the Mules "engine speed" is set for the 540 rpm PTO speed and no lower
when mowing to slice the material into very small clippings.

When you have the mower at the lowest setting you will be able to control the invasive brush/vines
much more effectively.



IF you have a lot of saplings hiring a dozer to break trail is more effective on the first pass
and that will reduce the chance of spearing a radiator or tearing a hose or filter off by saplings
springing back on you.

OR if a belly pan is available for your tractor that will help to protect it too.

Please let us know when you have purchased and taken delivery of the mule and mower
so I can officially as the newest member of the "Flail Mower Nation".

 

[camdenlake]

The JD390 will be fine for what you want to do with no question.

The hardened knives will last much longer than the standard knives.

The proper set up of the mower when it is mounted every season is
the most important thing.

Once you set the cutting height by adjusting the rear rollers height, you MUST
level the mower. You do this by putting a small bubble level on the top of the
gearbox and adjusting the top link until the bubble is centered.


With heavy brush and scrub it is always advisable to back over it first with the flail mower.
and then drive over it as the suction created by the flail mower rotor and knives is huge plus
when mowing.

If you look at some of the pictures that Island Tractor has uploaded he shows how well reverse
mowing over scrub brush works in clearing and maintaining land.


You have to be sure the Mules "engine speed" is set for the 540 rpm PTO speed and no lower
when mowing to slice the material into very small clippings.

When you have the mower at the lowest setting you will be able to control the invasive brush/vines
much more effectively.



IF you have a lot of saplings hiring a dozer to break trail is more effective on the first pass
and that will reduce the chance of spearing a radiator or tearing a hose or filter off by saplings
springing back on you.

OR if a belly pan is available for your tractor that will help to protect it too.

Please let us know when you have purchased and taken delivery of the mule and mower
so I can officially as the newest member of the "Flail Mower Nation".

Thansk for the help folks. Will post up some pics once its all here. So you just drop the 3pt all the way and let it float? The 390 has front skids that adjust to the same hight as the rear roller the manual says.

Josh

 

[IslandTractor]

Thansk for the help folks. Will post up some pics once its all here. So you just drop the 3pt all the way and let it float? The 390 has front skids that adjust to the same hight as the rear roller the manual says. Josh

You have the general idea. I adjust the skids so they don't hit turf on turns and set the rear roller for cut height. You can make fine adjustments to cut height with the topping lift which will pivot the mower over the rear roller. I then use the 3PT to lift over obstacles like rocks.

 

[leonz]

Thanks for the help folks.

Will post up some pics once its all here.

So you just drop the 3pt all the way and let it float?

The 390 has front skids that adjust to the same hight as the rear roller the manual says.

Josh

YES BUT; The properly adjusted top link is needed as the skids prevent the
flail mower rotor from falling forward and digging into the ground and
breaking knives and and knive mounts.


If you let them drag on the ground they will wear out much quicker and dig into the ground.


Thats why you adjust the top link to level the gearbox to keep the skids off the ground
when you first mount the flail mower to the three point hitch.

 

[camdenlake]

YES BUT; The properly adjusted top link is needed as the skids prevent the
flail mower rotor from falling forward and digging into the ground and
breaking knives and and knive mounts.


If you let them drag on the ground they will wear out much quicker and dig into the ground.


Thats why you adjust the top link to level the gearbox to keep the skids off the ground
when you first mount the flail mower to the three point hitch.

Great help i think this has me locked in on the flail. I like the idea of how durable and multi function they are. I know there will be some setup but with the help already should be no problem.


Thanks
Josh

 

[bandit67]

It'll take you a little trial and error to get the flail all set up to what works best. You can adjust the roller height, skid height, and tilt through the 3pt top link, so with all those adjustments, it could take a few tries. I set mine up on my asphalt drive to start, then fine-tuned it as I mowed the first couple times.

I live on a mountain property with slopes and flat, but mainly slopes. We grow lots of rocks here, every season, all season long, no matter if I collect every single rock in the spring and have one fairly smooth mowing. The flail has handled the property beautifully - much better than the old 3pt rotary mower did. I ran a 48" rotary on my machine because of all the trees on my property, and the 68" flail gets around the trees so much better. Plus, I like the fact that the cuttings get shredded much finer, whereas the rotary just cut down the tall grasses and left them laying all over the property.

 

[Thomabear]

As mentioned the skids are only there to prevent knife contact with the ground and should be adjusted to where they don't drag but will hit the ground before the knives do. My current mower is leveled via the roller and lower links. The upper link utilizes a 4" slot to allow the mower to pivot and negotiate uneven ground.