lawn scratching

[Tomtint]

We have a pretty large lawn and in the past few years we have had fungus and or bug damage that has left numerous spots bare of grass. I know going forward that fungicide and bug/grub control; products will be a mandatory application every year. My question is if there is a tool that can scarify the bad areas so that i can drop seed into the bad areas without making a giant mess of everything. I have a ratchet rake and was thinking about using that. Or maybe use a slice seeder.. Which would be quite a bit more work. The area is about 2/3 acre

 

[Runner]

I use a Ferguson Yard Maker for overseeding every year.

Not as good as a slit-seeder, but cheaper and works if you do it right.

 

[TMGT]

We have a pretty large lawn and in the past few years we have had fungus and or bug damage that has left numerous spots bare of grass. I know going forward that fungicide and bug/grub control; products will be a mandatory application every year. My question is if there is a tool that can scarify the bad areas so that i can drop seed into the bad areas without making a giant mess of everything. I have a ratchet rake and was thinking about using that. Or maybe use a slice seeder.. Which would be quite a bit more work. The area is about 2/3 acre

Slit seeders are very effective if done properly. I use my 4ft slit seeder to dethatch and then use my Aerovator with seedbox to overseed due to our hard ground. I'm doing about 2acres.

I have used the slit seeder with its seedbox to overseed in the past and had great results also, just dont set your blades too deep, about 1/4-1/2" for tall fescue.

 

[Tomtint]

I use a Ferguson Yard Maker for overseeding every year.
View attachment 4154983
Not as good as a slit-seeder, but cheaper and works if you do it right.
View attachment 4154984

I had our lawn aerated ..problem is that the plug holes are so far apart, it dosent really allow the seed to go anywhere but the hole.

 

[WinterDeere]

Certified lawn nut here, and @Runner has the right idea. A plug aerator would be even better than his spike aerator, but also not cheap in any size that large, and I've not seen one that integrates a drop seeder like his Yard Maker.

Basic rules of thumb on seed germination rates, of course it varies with species and other factors:

- Broadcast only: 10%
- Aerate the broadcast: 25%
- Slit seeding: 50%

Good seed is expensive, so make your choices on how much time and money you want to spend on the application.

And the reason a plug aerator is better than a spike aerator is that it pulls and throws plugs, which will look like a billion little dog turds, on your lawn. These crumble and fall apart, generating loose soil that will naturally back-fill the holes along with the seed. This increases germination, moisture penetration and retention, etc.

 

[Runner]

Certified lawn nut here, and @Runner has the right idea. A plug aerator would be even better than his spike aerator, but also not cheap in any size that large, and I've not seen one that integrates a drop seeder like his Yard Maker.

Basic rules of thumb on seed germination rates, of course it varies with species and other factors:

- Broadcast only: 10%
- Aerate the broadcast: 25%
- Slit seeding: 50%

Good seed is expensive, so make your choices on how much time and money you want to spend on the application.

And the reason a plug aerator is better than a spike aerator is that it pulls and throws plugs, which will look like a billion little dog turds, on your lawn. These crumble and fall apart, generating loose soil that will naturally back-fill the holes along with the seed. This increases germination, moisture penetration and retention, etc.

100% agree. I never use the Yard Maker (or anything else) to aerate the lawn, only for seed application. I believe that spike aerators probably compress the soil more than they aerate, whereas the core aerators actually do loosen the soil.

I mentioned that it only works if you "do it right". That means you can't just make one pass like you might with a slit seeder. To get decent results with the Yard Maker, first, the soil needs to be damp. If it's dry, you can't get any penetration (even with the drum filled with water).

Second, even though the seed holes do line up with some of the spikes, just one pass won't get enough seed into the soil. I make at least three passes on each section of yard. First pass is going forward, with the seeder gate open and dropping seed, some of which is being pushed into the soil by the spikes. Second, I shut the seeder gate and reverse over the same area as the first pass (to spike up more holes and to push more seed down into the soil). Then, I make another pass going forward (sometimes dropping seed, sometimes not, depending on how "bare" the area is).

Finally, I make one more pass going forward with the seed gate closed. As mentioned, not the most convenient or best way to do it, but it is cheap and it works fairly well. Depending on the area of yard I'm working on, I'd say maybe a 30 to 40 percent germination rate. If I could irrigate the yard, I feel the germination rate would improve somewhat. Also, some areas are just crappy soil (with lots of rocks underneath), so if they were amended, would probably get better germination.

I am using K31 Fescue.

 

[dannyojudd]

View attachment 4171531
100% agree. I never use the Yard Maker (or anything else) to aerate the lawn, only for seed application. I believe that spike aerators probably compress the soil more than they aerate, whereas the core aerators actually do loosen the soil.

I mentioned that it only works if you "do it right". That means you can't just make one pass like you might with a slit seeder. To get decent results with the Yard Maker, first, the soil needs to be damp. If it's dry, you can't get any penetration (even with the drum filled with water).

Second, even though the seed holes do line up with some of the spikes, just one pass won't get enough seed into the soil. I make at least three passes on each section of yard. First pass is going forward, with the seeder gate open and dropping seed, some of which is being pushed into the soil by the spikes. Second, I shut the seeder gate and reverse over the same area as the first pass (to spike up more holes and to push more seed down into the soil). Then, I make another pass going forward (sometimes dropping seed, sometimes not, depending on how "bare" the area is).

Finally, I make one more pass going forward with the seed gate closed. As mentioned, not the most convenient or best way to do it, but it is cheap and it works fairly well. Depending on the area of yard I'm working on, I'd say maybe a 30 to 40 percent germination rate. If I could irrigate the yard, I feel the germination rate would improve somewhat. Also, some areas are just crappy soil (with lots of rocks underneath), so if they were amended, would probably get better germination.

I am using K31 Fescue.

Here in Kentucky K31 Fescue must have carbide tips on it roots.... From observation it can be hydroseeded on a sandstone rock face and germinate.....

 

[Runner]

Here in Kentucky K31 Fescue must have carbide tips on it roots.... From observation it can be hydroseeded on a sandstone rock face and germinate.....

Probably still softer than the clay soil at my place.

 

[gumshu]

You may want to use a chain or tine harrow to de thatch. There are some 3 point ones out there rather than the drag type. I have a 12 foot 3 pt Priefert Chain Harrow.

 

[leonz]

We have a pretty large lawn and in the past few years we have had fungus and or bug damage that has left numerous spots bare of grass. I know going forward that fungicide and bug/grub control; products will be a mandatory application every year. My question is if there is a tool that can scarify the bad areas so that i can drop seed into the bad areas without making a giant mess of everything. I have a ratchet rake and was thinking about using that. Or maybe use a slice seeder.. Which would be quite a bit more work. The area is about 2/3 acre

You should add lime and gypsum in separate applications to your soil to destroy the fungus and dissolve the clay.

 

[bgr]

I second the advice to put down lime and gypsum to break up hardened soil.

I have run a 3ph land pride slice seeder and walk behind slice seeders quite often. Both get great results. The slice is always fully of germinated seed. Grass seed floats and washes into any depression in the first rain after it is put down, and any slight cover over the seed retains moisture and increases germination. The only problem with the bigger units is the slicer discs on most are on a rigid axle and if the lawn is not perfectly even there will be no grooves cut in any depressions. The slicers work well on smooth lawns and new lawns which have been power raked. You may have to hand scarify any areas you see which the slicer discs have not hit.

If you overseed in the fall, before Halloween in New England where I am, you used to be able to count on rain to germinate the seed. And there were very few weeds. Not so much anymore, rain is no longer a sure thing. But I have had very good luck with seed starting next spring if it did not germinate in the fall. Every core hole or slicer cut will germinate seed. The seed germinates early and gets going before any weeds get started. You do need to water a little it a little if it is a dry spring. Seed which has wintered over starts better and a little earlier than seed freshly put down from my experience.

On smaller jobs, below 3 acres, I often don't get out the heavy equipment and just use a walk behind earthway seed broadcast spreader and a tow behind core aerator or slice aerator with cement blocks behind a small tractor. Puts a lot less wear and tear on the ground when you go over 2 or 3 times but you do have to do it when the ground is not completely dry and hard. The seed washes into every hole and germination is good, either in the fall or next spring. Plus those little aerators are under $300 from Deer or Agway. You can try out the method on your place without spending a lot of money.

I have tried dethatching, but I am put off by the huge volume of dead grass I needed to rake up. As previously mentioned, core aerator plugs on top of the soil bring up nutrients and decompose quickly. They also bring up bacteria which decompose thatch well, as long as there is a little rain to help the process.

 

[Tomtint]

You should add lime and gypsum in separate applications to your soil to destroy the fungus and dissolve the clay.

We don’t have any clay at all.. it’s all loam on top and sand under that.. not a spot of clay to be found here

 

[Shawn T. W.]

Lime will "sweeten" the soil, as in make it more alkaline ... Moss likes a more acidic soil with a PH around 5.0-5.5, whereas most grass does best around 6.5-7.0 ...

I'd apply lime before some chemicals ... Just buy a 40 Lb bag of pelletized lime for about $7 and spread it by hand, there is a chart on the back ... See what it looks like in the spring ... If you like it, do the rest of the area ...