landscape rake tine distance

[woodlandfarms]

I am in the midst of designing a very custom landscape rake.. What I wanted to know is what distance everyone is putting their tines at.

The purpose of this is not for land leveling, but for picking up limbs and debris. Also, this is going to be attached to a long arm, much like pond cleaners. I was thinking 5 or 6" spacing. I know other rakes are made at 1.5" spacing (factory rakes) but I am concerned that too tight splines will pick up too much debris, and for blackberry removal, not release the vines. Any thoughts?

 

[HowlingWolf]

Hey ran into the same problem. Picked up to much stuff. Ended up removing every other one; it worked out fine and now picks up mostly sticks and other larger stuff. Worked out so well tree company cut some trees for my mom and I cleaned up while they cut. Next time I saw them they had a rake on their tractor. Good luck with your project.:thumbsup:

 

[jb62901]

I also removed every other one, with all the tines on gathered to much of every thing. (see pic)

http://i44.tinypic.com/nvs4md.jpg

 

[TDVT]

I had thought about building a new rake & saw this, Rake tine holder". I guess 2" must also be a common spacing.

My current rake (a no-name commercially made one) is also spaced at 2"

 

[rhett]

I to like the idea of removing every other tine for appropriate tasks. You can easily revert back.

The purpose of my response is to share a very helpful Tip stumbled upon while trying something else. Leave the tines loosely bolted so they have some free movement. When the spacing is close, the movement helps prevent vines and limbs from binding between the tines. I can bump the 3pt lift to free most debris, rarely do I need to dismount to clean the tines.

 

[paul dyar]

I have the rake tine holders from Agri Supply also. I only have every other one on. If the ground is the least bit damp, ( with all the tines on) they are like a scrape blade . I also like my tines to have side movement.

 

[woodlandfarms]

I see that side to side movement may be handy with tines.

So, that said... Should all the tines move together (ie have a strap that ties them all together) or just let them free float?

 

[rhett]

hi 'woodlandfarms',

It is more of a rocking (twisting) motion that occurs with loosely mounted tines. I guess the design will depend on the tines you use, the one or the two bolt type tine. I made a post June 16, 2008 with pictures trying to show what I did with a 6' KK rake, I achieved self aligning tines to the rake angle and the rocking (twisting) motion occurred, which really is the trick stopping the debris binding in the tines.

GuglioLS Landscape Rake Build thread should have some very helpful information.

 

[woodlandfarms]

I am reading all these posts. The rake I am building is front mounted, like on a bobcat. I am not building any ability to angle the blade. Maybe a mistake but it is beyond my ability, and with a front mounted rake I am not sure of the need.

My intent was to use 4X4 square tubing as the mount. There is a reason for this (and not using angle iron like most) as I intend to add wings to the rake (take a 4 ft rake and make it 8 ft wide).

I see how you tied your tines together. I am just not sure if it will mean that much to me with the device being front mounted.

So confused.

 

[rhett]

So confused.

I understand that! It looks like your project is pretty much uncharted, a google search gave very little info about their use on Skid Steers / front mounted implements. However York manufactures 6', 7' and 8' model widths for Skid Steers, they are pricey (3K + or -). Your idea should work OK, never tried it so I cannot give any solid response. The wing additions to give width choice is nice but will add to the fabrication complexity. York has some great ideas implemented that a DIY'er could use. May I suggest you try Skid Steer Forums for more feedback from people that have actually used one in the field. At the York price, I would lean more towards a Rake/Grapple for your front lift.

Another thing I found very helpful with my 3pt hitch model, is that I now use Chain as my Top Link. By not being rigid I get better results on uneven ground not needing to use gauge wheels for leveling (gravel driveway maintenance). I guess most 3pt user comments apply to front use, but that is only my guess.

 

[2manyrocks]

I am reading all these posts. The rake I am building is front mounted, like on a bobcat. I am not building any ability to angle the blade. Maybe a mistake but it is beyond my ability, and with a front mounted rake I am not sure of the need.

? My rear tine rake is simply attached to the mount by one pivot point and then a bolt allows you to angle the blade. I think you could do this fairly easily if you wanted.

Or did you mean the ability to angle the blade and tilt it as well? The tilting part I agree would be harder.

 

[woodlandfarms]

Angling.. As it runs off my FEL I can tilt to my hearts content. But I do need to add guage wheels. And thanks for the pic. It is a more advanced version of what I am doing.

But for further explanation. The reason the device shortens to 4 feet is to allow me to attach it to a special kind of boom pole our tractors have. This way I can reach about 12 to 14 feet down a ravine and pull up twigs and blackberries.

Now comes the hard part. How do I build the pivot. Is it just a simple hardened bolt, or should I do some sort of sleaved thingy. I look at everyones build and boy is mine remedial.

Here is a photo of my first build. It failed miserably, but it gives you and idea of what the short version of the rake is going to be used for.

So, I have to build the rake so it comes off the FEL mount reasonably easy and then attaches to the boom pole.

Carl

 

[rhett]

I can only suggest ideas that might be useful.

As for the rake being able to pivot on a horizontal plane, I see it would only be useful in your application for reversing the blade for direction of use. Setting the rake to angle is useful for wind-rowing (moving material like gravel to one side).

What does seem to be almost required is a limited free vertical pivot at the end of the boom because of constant geometry changes during its use. If the rake is mounted rigid, it will want to dig during movement when you only want it to drag.

Also I notice your boom is pinned for maximum lift. Adding some plate allowing the boom to be optionally pinned for more downward curling seems necessary.

As an example, what I visualize is a landscape rake mounted to a Backhoe, curling the debris up.

 

[spo307]

I also removed every other one, with all the tines on gathered to much of every thing. (see pic)

http://i44.tinypic.com/nvs4md.jpg

thats what i do

 

[woodlandfarms]

So, my tractor is 90" wide. If I make an 8' landscape rake, and I pivot it 15 degrees...

It is moments like this I wish I had kids, or had gone into engineering... Actually, I used to know all this math and then... well, if you don't use it you loose it.


Maybe a 9' landscape rake is more appropriate. Woooo that would be a wide piece of equipment...

Oh, and Rhett. Thank you very much for your insight. This rake will indeed spin 180 degrees to fit the front of the PT.. But its mounting will be another custom job..